Rambles round Kilmarnock : with an introductory sketch of the town

RAMBLES

ROUND KILMARNOCK,

WITH AN INTRODUCTORY

SKETCH OF THE TOWN.

BY

ARCHIBALD R, ADAMSON

" Still o'er these scenes my memory wades,

And fondly broods with miser care;
Time but the impression stronger makes,
As streams their channels deeper wear."

KILMARNOCK:
PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY T. STEVENSON, " STANDARD " OFFICE.

MDCCCLXXV.

P. K E F A C E .

THE following pages are a record of some pleasing Rambles in
and around the town of Kilraarnock. A considerable portion
appeared in the Kilmarnock Standard, and met with such a
favourable reception, both at home and abroad, that I have
yielded to the solicitation of numerous friends, and now pre-
sent them to the public in their present form. In doing
so, I have carefully revised them and added much new matter
suggested by further inquiry, and have endeavoured to make
the work as useful, entertaining, instructive, concise, and
accurate as possible. In nearly every instance, although one
visit is only mentioned, I have repeatedly gone 'to the places
described ; but, nevertheless, it must be borne in mind that
the " Eambler " does not rise to the dignity of the historian,
therefore he is not to be censured if he omits some things
which fall within the province of one who aims at giving a
minutely detailed history of a locality or place. The district
is one of singxilarly romantic interest, and replete with
memories of patriot and bard ; so much so, that the Scotch-
man must be soulless indeed who can tread its classic ground
and pass by the haunts of heroes and the graves of martyrs,
and look upon scenes that once inspired the tongue of Coila's
bard, without being susceptible to a feeling of pride that the
land of Wallace and Bruce is that of his nativity.

The time-shattered ruins, auld kirkyards, and quaint villages
which nestle in many a picturesque nook in the vicinity of
the town are dear to every Kilmarnockonian, but more so to
those whom fate or circumstances have removed from the

IV PREFACE.

scenes of youthful days ; therefore I trust that this work will
not only serve to awaken fond memories of each loved spot,
but act as a handy guide to the numerous places of interest
in and around the town, for a want of a knowledge of the
topography, historic, and traditionary lore of a district often
robs a ramble of an amount of pleasure which otherwise
would be derived from it.

With the idea of making the Eambles more complete, an
introductory description of the town has been given. In
doing this I frankly acknowledge my indebtedness to the
History of Kilmarnock, for no historical notice of the town
can be written without reference to its pages, the author
having carefully collected almost everything regarding the
subject. Nevertheless, there will be found in the following
sketch not a little that is new and entertaining.

In conclusion, the writing of this work has been
"My leisure's best resource."

I now respectfully dedicate it to the Natives of Kilmarnock
and surrounding district at home and abroad, and trust that
they will experience as much pleasure in its perusal as I
have had in my walks and wanderings.

THE AUTHOR

KILMARIOCK.

CHAPTER I.

Page

Rise and Progress of the Town — The Cross — Flesh Market Bridge —
Cern Exchange — Clerk's Lane — Fore Street — High Church and
Burying Ground — King Street — Wellington Street — Fever
Hospital — Portland Street, ... ... ... 1

CHAPTER II.

Green Bridge and its environs — London Road — Milldykes — The Irvine
and Struthers' Steps — Saint Andrew's Burying Ground and
Church — Glencairn Square and its associations — High Glencairn
Street— King Street— King Street U.P. Church— The Council
House, 18

CHAPTER III.

Cheapside Street — The Old Tolbooth — The Low Church of former days
and its associations — The Churchyard — Dickie Street — Dunlop
Street — The Astronomical Observatory — Langlands Street — The
New Theatre — St. Marnock Street — The Court-House — Kilmar-
nock House — Dundonald Road — The Public Park — Waterside —
Sandbed Street, 27

EAMBLES ROUBB KILMARNOCK.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

Page

The Bridges connecting Kilmarnock with Riccarton, and the objects
of interest in theirvicinity — Caprington Castle — Riccarton Castle:
its site and traditions — Traditions of Sir William Wallace —
Riccarton — The Parish Church — Sandy M 'Crone — The Church-
yard—Old Stones— The East Shaw Street Miser— The Old
Church — Village Worthies — The Village past and present — The
Manse, ... .. ... ... 47

CHAPTER II.

Craigie Road — Knowehead and its surroundings — The Buchanan
Bequest — Treesbank Manor House — Scargie — John Burtt —
Knockmarloch — Craigie Hill — Craigie Church — The Village —
The Witch Stane — Craigie Castle — A Strange Story — A Curious
Stone, ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 56

CHAPTER III.

From Craigie to Barnweill — Barnweill Kirk and Graveyard — The
Wallace Monument— Fail Castle — The Warlock Laird — Tarbolton
— Willie's Mill — Peden's Pulpit and Cave — Through the Fields
to Ayr Road — The Halfway House — The Estate of Coodhain —
Peace-and-Plenty — Back to Kilmarnock, ... ,.. 66

CHAPTER IV.

Wild Flowers — The Macwheelan Murder — The Cairn — Symington —
The Church and Graveyard — Witherington — Old Sandy Neil —
" Laird" MTherson — " Jock o' the Whalps" — The Glen, ... 76

CHAPTER V.

The House of Auchans — Dundonald Castle — The Village and Parish
Church — Extracts from the Parochial Registers — Smuggling —
Tarn Fullarton — Newfield — " Fairlie o' the Five Lums "— Old
Rome— Home again, ... 85

CHAPTER VI.

Beansburn — Dean Castle: its situation and appearance — The Castle
besieged — Destroyed by fire — A Tradition of the Persecution —
The Boyd Family— From the Dean to Craufurdland— Craufurd-
land Castle and Grounds — Craufurdland Bridge — Up the Stream
to Fen wick, ... ... ... ... ... ... ... y5

CONTENTS. Vll

CHAPTER VII.

Low Fenwick — Old John Kirkland — " The Kirk-town" — The erection
of the Parish and origin of the name — The Parish Church and
Burying Ground — The Rev. William Guthrie — The Burial Place
of the Howies — Captain Paton, ... ... ... ... ..106

CHAPTER VIII.

The Churchyard continued — John Fulton — King's Well — Lochgoin:

its Traditions and Relics — Duntan Core — Back to Kilmarnock, 115

CHAPTER IX.

The influence of sunshine — Glasgow Road and its scenery — An Ad-
venture— Specimens of Kilmaurs cutlery — The Reservoir — From
it to Rowallan Castle — The • situation and appearance of the
Castle described — The interior of the building — The garden — A
fox story — Traditions, ... ... ... ... ... ... 134

CHAPTER X.

The origin and descent of the Mures of Rowallan — A letter from
Queen Mary to Sir John Mure — Sir William Mure: his writings
and version of Psalm xxiii. : events in his life — The last of the
Mures — The late Countess of Loudoun's attachment to the Castle
— The grounds the resort of pleasure parties — An Address to
Rowallan —A ride into the town, .. ... ... ...144

CHAPTER XI.

From Kilmarnock to Stewarton — The Parish and its Boundaries — The
Town: its Buildings, Trades, and Eminent Characters — Corsehill
Castle and its Traditions — The Parish Church— The late William
Cunninghame of Lainshaw — The Churchyard — The Viaduct —
Lainshaw Castle — The Murder of Hugh, fourth Earl of Eglinton, 152

CHAPTER XII.

From Stewarton to Kilmaurs — The appearance of the Village — The
Council House and Juggs — Kilmaurs of the olden time: its
Government and Churches — The Monk's Well — My Lord's Place
— Jcck's Thorn — Kilmaurs Castle — The Glencairn Family — An
Incident, 163

CHAPTER XIII.

Kilmaurs continued — The old Church: its appearance and history —
An Anecdote of the Rev. Hugh Thomson — The Glencairn Aisle
and Monument — The appearance of the Vault when opened — A
Ghastly Keepsake — The Rev. George Paxton — "Wee Miller "-
" The Double Suicide " — The Old Manse — Covenanting Relics —
A Stroll along Crosshouse Road — The Estate of Plann — Busbie
Castle — The Tumulii at Greenhill Farm — Home again, ... 171

Viii CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XIV.

From Kilmarnock to Grougar — The .Ruins of Tammie Raeburn's Cot-
tage— His self-imposed vow, personal appearance, courtship,
witticisms, &c. — Grougar Row — Loudoun Kirk — The Queir —
Lady Flora Hastings : her melancholy death : the character of
her poems — Janet Little, the poetical correspondent of Robert
Burns — George Palmer — An obscure Covenanter — A relic of
Loudoun Kirk, ... 181

CHAPTER XV.

The Policies of Loudoun Castle — The external and internal appearance
of the building — The Family Portraits— The Library — The old
Yew Tree — The Loudoun Family, and salient points in the
history of some of its members — The old Castle of Loudoun : its
destruction by the Kennedys, &c., ... ... 190

CHAPTER XVI.

Loudoun Braes — Newmilns : its appearance, history, and trade — The
Radical proclivities of the inhabitants — The old Tower, and
incidents associated with it — The Parish Church — Norman Mac-
leod — The Churchyard — Interesting Tombstones commemorative
of Nisbet of Hardhill and other Covenanting natives of the Parish
who suffered during the Persecution — The Workmen's Institute
— " The Lasso' Patie's Mill," 196

CHAPTER XVII.

The Village of Darvel : its appearance and trade — Loudoun Hill and
its Historic Associations — Wallace's Attack on the English
Convoy — A Scottish Victory — Drumclog — The Laird of Torfoot's
account of the Battle — His fight with Captain Arrol and his
encounter with Claverhouse — The appearance of the field after
the engagement — The Covenanters and their achievements, ... 204

CHAPTER XVIII.

From Newmilns to Galston — The Institute — Barr Castle —The Boss
Tree — Cessnock Castle — The appearance of the buildings — The
Campbells of Cessnock — Sir Hew, and the charges brought
against him — The Alienation of the Castle and Lands — The Main
Street of Galston — The Parish Church and Graveyard — Stones
commemorative of local Covenanters — John Wright, the Galston
Poet — Titchfield Stieet — A Mining Settlement — From Galston
to Hurlford — The Village : its buildings and inhabitants —
Crookedholm — Back to Kilmarnock — Conclusion, ... ... 212

RAMBLES THROUGH KILMARNOCK.

CHAPTER I.

Rise and Progress of Kilmarnock — The Cross — Flesh Market Bridge — Corn
Exchange — Clerk's Lane — Fore St. — High Church and Burying Ground
— King Street — Wellington Street — Fever Hospital — Portland Street.

BEFORE starting on a ramble through Kilmarnock, I deem
it necessary to give a sketch of the town in former times,
seeing that it owes much of its present prosperity to the
enterprise of days gone by. The knowledge that "Auld
Killie" may be justly considered the metropolis of Ayrshire
may suggest comparisons highly satisfactory to our sense of
vanity, and the glories of progress, but let it not be forgotten
that all things of which we may be inclined to boast will
have their day, and that nothing is immutable below,

" The glories of our birth and state
Being shadows, not substantial things."

With this simple introduction, then, I open my subject by
stating that the origin of the town is shrouded in obscurity.
It is generally supposed that an early promoter of Christianity
named Saint Marnock built a church and therein expounded
the tenets of his creed. Houses in time sprang up in its
vicinity and formed a village, which gradually increased into
the proportions of a town.

As far back as authentic history goes, Kilmarnock seems to
have been under the feudal jurisdiction of the Lords Boyd,
who were barons of the district, and dwelt in Dean Castle,
the ruins of which still stand in a vale on the bank of the
Kilmarnock Water, about a mile and a-half north-east of the
town. In 1591 it was created a burgh of barony, and in 1672
a second charter was conferred upon it, that endowed it with

2 RAMBLES THROUGH KILMARNOCK.

further privileges. In 1609 Timothy Pont visited it when
surveying Cunninghame, and makes mention of it thus: —
" Kilmernock — toune and kirk — is a large village, and of
great repaire. It hath in it a veekly market; it hath a faire
stone bridge over the river Mernock, vich glyds hard by the
said toune till it falles in the river Irving. It hath a pretty
church, from vich the village, castlle, and lordschipe takes
its name," &c. At that early date Kilmarnock seems to
have been a place of considerable importance, manufactures
being carried on to some extent in it. In 1695 the first
magistrates were appointed; these were chosen by the
Superior from a list presented to him by the Council annually.
This system continued until 1745, afterwards the Council
appointed the bailies.

Kilmarnock did not make much progress as a town until
the middle of the eighteenth century, or until after it was
freed from baronial jurisdiction; then it began to prosper
civically and commercially. About this time, the author of
"The History of Kilmarnock" says, "the town presented a
mean and inelegant appearance. The streets were crooked
and narrow ; the houses were low and poorly lighted ; and
to many of them that were two storeys high were attached
outside stairs that not only confined the already limited
thoroughfares, but gave to the houses themselves a rude and
clumsy aspect. The principal streets at that time were
those now called High Street, Soulis Street, Fore Street,
Back Street, Croft Street, Strand Street, and Sandbed Street,
which, with some buildings at the Cross, Xethertonholm, and
a few back tenements and lanes, formed the whole of the
town." In 1777, or nearly fifty years after the introduction
of the manufacture of woollen fabrics, Loch in his " Essays "
makes mention of it as a place of considerable manufacturing
importance, and states that it was possessed of two hundred
and forty looms for the weaving of silk, sixty for the weaving
of carpets, forty for the weaving of linen, thirty for the
weaving of blankets, thirty for the weaving of serges and
shalloons, twenty for the weaving of duffles, and six stocking
frames; also of being possessed of two tanyards and a good
trade in shoes. As business increased so grew the population,
and from an obscure village Kilmarnock came to be the most
important town in Ayrshire. Dr. Webster states that the

RAMBLES THROUGH KILMARNOCK. 3

town "in 1763 contained nearly 5000 inhabitants ; in 1792,
6776; in 1801, 8079; in 1811, 10,148; in 1821, 12,769;
in 1831, 18,093 ; in 1841, 19,398." In 1871 it numbered
23,709. In the Edinburgh Magazine for July, 1831, there
is an article which gives some curious statistical information.
I make the following extract: — " In Kilmarnock about 1200
weavers and 200 printers are engaged in the manufacture of
harness and worsted printed shawls. From 31st May, 1830,
to June 1, 1831, there were no less than 1,128,814 of these
shawls manufactured, the value of which would be about
£200,000. In the manufacture of Brussels, Venetian, and
Scottish carpets and rugs, the quality and patterns of which
are not surpassed by any in the country, there are upwards
of 1000 weavers employed. The annual amount of this
important branch of manufacture cannot be less than
£100,000. About 2400 pairs of boots and shoes are made
every week, of which three-fourths are for exportation ;
annual value about £32,000. The manufacture of bonnets
is also extensive, there being upwards of 224,640 yearly
made by the corporation, the annual value of which is
£12,000. The number of sheep and lamb skins dressed
annually exceeds 140,000."

Since that time the advancement of mechanical science
and the appliance of machinery has in a manner revolution-
ised the trades of the country, and weaving and block-
printing have received an irreparable shock in Kilmarnock,
as elsewhere. The sound of the shuttle has now a faint
echo in her streets, and block -printing is all but extinct ;
but for the manufacture of carpets Kilmarnock is still a rival
to Brussels and other more pretentious seats of this industry.
Within the last thirty years prodigious advances in business
and manufactures have been made. Engineering, and also
brass and iron founding, have been added to the trades of
the town to such an extent that it is better known now-a-
days by such products than for carpets and bonnets. Within,
the same period the old portion of the town has in a great
measure been swept away or remodelled. New streets and
new localities have been formed, and the Kilmarnock of to-
day may be said to be a minor city; but I will now conclude
this imperfect sketch and start on a ramble

" Through a' the streets and neuks o' Killie,"

4 RAMBLES THROUGH KILMARNOCK.

and thereby convey to the reader some idea of the present
appearance of the town.

The Cross being the great local centre, I will make it the
starting-point ; but as it is possessed of considerable historic
interest, perhaps a few words regarding it may not be
inappropriate. Kilmarnock Cross is most spacious, although
of a most peculiar form, having no less than seven streets
branching off it. In the centre stands a marble statue of
Sir James Shaw, who rose from a humble position to that
of Lord Mayor of London. He was born in the parish of
Riccarton in 1764, and died in 1843. The statue was
erected in 1848. The form of the Cross has been compared
to the turned-up root of an old tree, but a nearer comparison,
I think, is the right hand palm downwards, with the fingers
extended and spread out, the index finger being held in a line
with the wrist. The wrist represents King Street ; the
thumb, Cheapside Street ; the index finger, Portland Street ;
the mid finger, Fore Street ; the one next to it, Regent
Street ; and the little finger, Duke Street. To account for
Waterloo Street you must add an imaginary finger, or get
some one with six, and the illustration will be complete.
The appearance of the Cross is not inelegant; it contains
some fine shops, and the principal streets leading off it are
wide and spacious. Looking up Portland Street, which is a
handsome thoroughfare, the George Hotel stands prominently
out. Looking down King Street, which is similar in appear-
ance, the eye rests on the Council Buildings, the Relief
Church, and the hills of Craigie in the distance. In Cheap-
side Street the old tower and clock of the Laigh Kirk present
themselves, and in looking along Duke Street the principal
object that arrests attention is the Corn Exchange. At an
early period a corn mill stood in the Cross, the wheel of
which was driven by a lade connected with the river. In
the southern corner of the Cross John Nisbet was executed
in 1683. The spot where the gallows stood is marked with
white stones, which are best seen in wet weather. Nisbet
was a Covenanter, and was accused of being concerned in the
rising at Bothwell, and refusing to give information regarding
the whereabouts of certain of his friends. Every step of the
ladder he considered to be a step nearer Heaven. Tradition
has it that the crowd at the execution was so great that the

RAMBLES THROUGH KILMARXOCK. 5

roofs of the houses were covered with people who were anxious
to get a glimpse of the martyr. There is a stone in the
Low Church burying ground to his memory which will be
noticed hereafter. In 1740 "the roaring game" was practised
in the Cross by some ingenious curlers, who obtained water
from a pump and retained it by darning. Previous to 1802
the Cross was confined and inconvenient, but power from
Parliament being obtained to improve the town, many of
the houses were torn down and the area widened. In 1804
King Street was opened up, and shortly afterwards Portland
Street was formed. Duke Street was formed in 1859 and
opened with civic honours, a procession headed by the Provost
and Town Council walking along it. In April, 1820, the
town was invaded by a regiment of Edinburgh Yeomanry
Cavalry, who placed a loaded cannon at the Cross ready for
execution while a search for Eadicals was going on. The
scene at the Cross that day was one to be remembered, and
many still living recollect it.

In the summer of 1830 Green the aeronaut ascended in a
balloon from the Cross amidst the acclamations of assembled
thousands. The Magistrates and Council, who superintended
the affair, had barricades erected at all the entrances, intending
to make a charge for admission ; but the people, upon the
example being set, broke them down and thronged the
reserved ground. In December, 1808, in a passage called
Nailers' Close, that led from the Cross to Green Street, but
which has been removed by the formation of Duke Street,
a soldier was mortally stabbed by a deserter. The ruffian
escaped and was never more heard of, although a reward of
twenty pounds was offered for his apprehension. A knife
that was supposed to belong to the assassin was afterwards
found sticking in a tree in the neighbourhood. By the over-
flowing of the Kilmarnock Water the Cross was flooded to
the depth of about four feet on the morning of the 14th
July, 1852. I will close this brief notice with an account
of the ludicrous battle, known as " the Sour Milk Rebellion,"
that took place in the Cross in 1829. At that period the
farmers who drove their milk into the town vended it at the
Cross,* and from a dozen to eighteen carts thronged the area

* The Cross was the market place of the town. Stalls stood in it for the
sale of vegetables, flsh, "blackm-m," £c and on market days boots, shoes, aud
other articles of domestic use were sold.

6 RAMBLES THROUGH KILMARNOCK.

every morning. The farmers agreeing amongst themselves to
raise the price of sour milk by reducing the measure intimated
their intention to the guidwives of "Auld Killie," who
strenuously denounced and oppposed what they considered
" an extortion." Combining, they refused to purchase sour
milk until the old measure was restored, and threatened to
smash both the jug and head of any one who should pay
the increased price. Their threats were in some instances
carried into effect, and the uproar occasioned brought business
to a standstill, for amazons flocked from all quarters to the
scene of the disturbance. An officious Bailie, accompanied
by a town officer (there were no police then) made his
appearance with the intention of restoring order. Matters
now became worse, a general row commenced, in which the
sour milk taps were set running, and wherever the Bailie
and his man went they were hustled by the dames and well
soused with canfuls of the liquid until they were half-blinded
and drenched to the skin. Crestfallen and whitewashed
with the milk they made a hasty retreat amid jeers and
laughter, and left the Cross in the hands of the rioters. It
is needless to say that the old measure was restored. A
similar rebellion took place in the town about thirty years
ago. I might mention several meal mobs that gathered in
the Cross, but space forbids.

Turning Mr. M'Kie's corner I enter Waterloo Street, which
is narrow, but widens as it reaches Fleshmarket Bridge. The
houses are dingy and old-fashioned in appearance. It was
in Waterloo Street the first edition of the poems of Robert
Bums was printed. The house in which the printing office
was is said to be that on the left hand side of the Star Inn
Close. This circumstance has entwined Kilmarnock insep-
arably with the memory of Burns.

In November, 1807, two women were found murdered in
the back apartment of the shop in Waterloo Street, at the
corner of the bridge. Two men were tried for the crime but
acquitted. Here the Flesh Market Bridge spans the Kilmar-
nock Water, and connects Waterloo Street with Market
Place. On the bridge there is a row of shops, and here, as
the name implies, the Flesh Market was held. Space is so
valuable that a great portion of the stream as it passes through
the town is arched over and built on. The principal erec-

RAMBLES THROUGH KILMAUXOCK. 7

tions are the Council House and Police Offices. The bridge
bears the following inscription : — "Flood, 14th July, 1852,"
which refers to one of the greatest calamities that ever visited
Kilmarnock. In consequence of a waterspout or extraordinary
rainfall at an early hour on the morning of the above date ,
the usually placid Kilmarnock "Water rose far above its banks,
and rolled in a torrent along the course of its channels,
sweeping before it almost everything that obstructed its pro-
gress. Large boulders were rolled by the current as if they
had been pebbles, and trees, rock-rooted, that had withstood
many a storm, were torn from their beds and whirled along
by the eddy, like twigs. Machinery was washed out of work-
shops, furniture out of houses, and goods out of stores.
Walls, houses, and bridges were swept away, and the lives
of many of the townspeople were jeopardised. The water in
the street at Flesh Market Bridge was five and a half feet
deep. It poured up Waterloo Street, Guard Lane, and
Market Lane, flooded the Cross, and rushed in a torrent
down King Street, bearing on its bosom tables and chairs,
and many articles out of shops, the. doors of which had been
burst open by the force of the flood. The value of the
property destroyed within the Parliamentary bounds was
estimated at £15,000. Passing along Waterloo Street the
view on the opposite side of the stream embraces Tankardlia'
Brae and two or three tall factories that raise themselves
against the steep bank that rises conically from the channel.
It is said that stage coaches to and from London used to
pass up and down Tankardha' Brae, but the path is so steep
and narrow that it is difficult to conceive how the feat was
accomplished.

Turning into Green Street I pass the Butter Market, where
maids and matrons from the country dispose of their butter,
eggs, and poultry on market days, and arrive in Duke Street,
pausing before the entrance to the Corn Exchange Hall.

The Corn Exchange is the finest structure in the town, if
not in the whole county. It is situated at the corner of
Green Street and London Road, and extends one hundred
and thirty-six feet along the first-mentioned thoroughfare, and
ninety-two along the latter. It is two storied, and the style
of the architecture is Italian. Above the hall entrance there
is a tower one hundred and ten feet high, surmounted with

8 RAMBLES THROUGH KILMARNOCK.

three clock dials. The tower is called the Albert Tower, and
was erected by public subscription to the memory of the late
Prince Consort. The building was opened in September,
1863. The under storey consists of shops, and in the upper
storey are the Kilmarnock Library, Athenaeum, Beading-room,
and two small offices which are allotted to the Registrar and
Sanitary Inspector. Attached is the Butter Market. The
hall is spacious, and seated for twelve hundred. It has a
commodious gallery, and behind the platform there is a large
finely-toned organ that cost £800, and which is held by
trustees for behoof of the public.

I now pass along Duke Street, which, as already stated,
was opened for traffic in 1859. It forms a direct communi-
cation from the Cross to London Road, instead of the tortuous
approach by "Waterloo Street. The street is wide. One side
is occupied by a row of handsome buildings, the other as yet
is only partly built on. The corner block which faces the
Cross is, in an architectural point of view, very chaste in
design. Passing Regent Street, I pass through the Cross
and enter Fore Street, or, as it is generally termed, the Fore-
gate ; but before proceeding on my way I will say a word
about Clerk's Lane Church, which is situated in Regent
Street, and seen from the corner of Duke Street. Clerk's
Lane Church is at present an Evangelical Union place of
•worship, and the pastor is the Rev. Robert Hislop. The
building originally belonged to a sect called "Antiburghers."
It is a plain block, with something resembling a flower-plot
in front of it, close to which stands a house that was at one
time the manse. Several eminent divines have laboured in
Clerk's Lane Church, not the least of whom was the Rev.
James Robertson: he was ordained in 1777 and died in 1811.
Although of scholastic attainments, he was most eccentric in
his habits, and often pointed and personal in his discourse.
Many anecdotes are preserved regarding him, only one of
which space permits me to relate: — When preaching one
day on the Atonement, he observed two individuals in his
audience who had failed in business, and met the demands
of their creditors — one with five shillings in the pound, and
the other with two and sixpence. " Christ paid it all," said
he ; then with a fixed look at the one bankrupt and then at
the- other, he added, " it Avasna five shillings in the pound

RAMBLES THROUGH KILMARNOCK. \)

Christ paid, 0 no ; nor was it two and sixpence in the pound,
but the whole pound ; and that's what every man who
wishes to be considered honest should do."

It was in Clerk's Lane Church that the celebrated Dr
Morison was tried by the Presbytery in 1841. He was plain
Mr then, and in the morning of manhood. He had pub-
lished a pamphlet which many considered contained doctrines
that were at variance with the Confession of Faith. He also
took a more liberal view of the Atonement of Christ than
divines were wont to do, and did not hesitate to preach his
opinions from the pulpit. Of course he was a reformer, and
like all who interfere with use and wont, he suffered. The
Presbytery got wind of his heresy; he was tried, and suspen-
ded ; he appealed to the Synod ; it sustained the decision,
and ultimately expelled him from the Secession Church. The
trial began in the morning, and lasted until midnight. Mr
Morison spoke for five hours in his own defence. His address
was earnest and eloquent, so much so that he carried the
sympathies of the majority of the audience with him. During
the trial the excitement throughout the town was intense.
Prayer meetings were held in various quarters to beseech the
Almighty to sustain and uphold him, and the church was so
packed that several of the pews were broken down, while
hundreds who were unable to gain admission blocked up the
lane. I need not state how Mr Morison rose Phcenix-like,
how he laboured in fitting students for the ministry, and
founded the denomination known as the Evangelical Union.

I elbow my way along the Foregate — which, by-the-bye,
is a narrow, confined thoroughfare, lined on both sides with
low-roofed, old-fashioned houses. Their ground floors are
mostly occupied with brokers' shops, at the doors of which
furniture, old boots, and clothing of every description are
exposed for sale. Strange smells greet the nostrils, and
stranger sights the vision. Here unwashed children gambol
in the gutter, and poverty-stricken men and women jostle
each other as they pass up and down. Notwithstanding all
this, the Foregate was at one time a most respectable street,
and the first families lived in it. A short distance along it, on
the left, there is a roofless ruin of a house, and behind it a store.
On the site of this store there stood a two-storied thatched cot-
age, with a court in front of it. It was taken down in June,

10 RAMBLES THROUGH KILMARSOCK.

1863, and while workmen were engaged in its demolition, one
of them discovered a leathern bag in a hole beneath the thatch.
On being lifted out it burst, and a quantity of silver coins
showered from it, which created a general scramble, in which
every one engaged who was conveniently near. The coins were
about the size of our present five shilling pieces, and were sup-
posed to amount to several hundreds. Why they came to be there
is an insoluble mystery. The house was at one time an inn, but
this fact does not account for the hidden treasure. The coins,
however, were possessed of a language. They were principally
of the reign of Charles the First and Charles the Second,
•which intimates the era of the Persecution, when bloodshed
and robbery were perpetrated to drive terror into the hearts
of inoffensive people, and compel them to square their creed
to Act of Parliament. Any one at all acquainted with the
history of Kilmarnock must be aware of the atrocities com-
mitted in the town about this time ; therefore it is not at all
improbable that the concealer of the bag left the house —
which probably was his or her home — and never returned ;
that banishment or death for ever separated the individual
from the town, and that the secret of the concealment was
swallowed up in the oblivion of the grave.

Opposite the old building referred to is Caprington Close,
so called from the circumstance of a cadet of the Caprington
family having resided in it in those days when

" Lairds sae spruce, an' leddies braw,
Proudly thronged the Foregate."

Next to it is a public house, styled Kay's Tavern. The
building is modern, and stands on the site of a low-roofed,
thatched cottage, wherein Mr Kay, the testator of a large sum
of money for schools and a public park, is alleged to have
been born.

Picking my steps along this ancient street for some dis-
tance, and squeezing through a crowd of slatternly women
and lazy, lounging men gathered round a ballad-singer, I pass
Bond Lane, a vile-looking passage, then New Street — which,
by-the-bye, has every appearance of being a very old street —
and step into Soulis Street, which is just a continuation of
the Foregate. Passing Paddy's Close, a cluster of houses that
still retain a look of faded grandeur, I pass uuder an arch

RAMBLES THROUGH KILMARXOCK. 11

of the railway viaduct that spans the street, and emerge into
a more respectable-looking locality.

A little up the street, on the left, stands the High Church.
It is surrounded by a burying-ground. In the wall that
separates it from the street there is a niche in which stands
a fluted pillar, surmounted by an urn. Over the whole
there is a kind of pediment, on which the following in-
scription is graven : —

"To the memory of Lord Soulis, A.D. 1444.
Erected by subscription, A.D. 1825.
' The days of old to mind I call.' "

Prior to this monument, a rude stone pillar, surmounted by a
cross which was much decayed and time-worn, stood in the
middle of the street. The circumstance that the monument
commemorates is merely traditionary, and to the effect that
Lord Soulis was an English nobleman who was shot by an
arrow from the bow of one of the Boyds of Dean Castle. It
is said that Boyd fired the fatal shot from the opposite bank
of the Kilmarnock Water, which flows in the vicinity. In
the centre of the street there is a diamond figure in the
causeway, which marks the spot where the ill-fated Soulis
fell. The grave-yard contains many handsome tomb-stones.
One of polished granite bears the following inscription : —
" Sacred to the memory of Thomas Kennedy, water meter

manufacturer, who died 6th Sept., 1874, aged 77 years ."

Thomas Kennedy was not, strictly speaking, the inventor
of the water meter, yet it was owing to his persistent
perseverance that the wonderful piece of mechanism was
brought to its present state of perfection. In the infancy
of the invention, difficulties were encountered and obstacles
met with that would have disheartened any ordinary man,
and had it not been for him a water meter manufactory would
never have been in Kilmarnoek. He added much to the trade
and importance of the town, and the extensive works in Low
Glencairn Street are his best monument. Meters of his
patent are in use in all quarters of the civilised world.

The eccentric Rev. James Robertson that I mentioned in
connection with Clerk's Lane Church is interred here.
There is a handsome stone to his memory. Here also lie
the remains of John Wilson, the printer of the first edition
of the poems of Burns. He was, as every reader of Burns is

12 RAMBLES THROUGH KILMARXOCK.

aware, unmercifully lampooned by the bard in the following
epitaphical stanza: —

HIC JACKT WEE JOHNNIE.

" Whoe'er thou art, oh reader know,

That death has murder'd Johnnie !
And here his body lies fu' low —
For saul he ne'er had ony."

There is another stone that I may mention. It is " to the
memory of Eobert Laurie, Waterlooman, late of the Scots
Greys." It is stated by William Scott Douglas, in his little
work on the County of Ayr, that this individual acquired a
small property adjoining the churchyard, and felt a great
desire that his bones should repose at the back of his house.
But a trifling obstacle lay in the way of accomplishing his
purpose. His father, John Laurie, was buried in the Laigh
Kirkyard, and Eobert disliked the idea of being separated from
him in death. The method he adopted to reconcile matters
was very singular. After procuring a lair on the desired
spot, he erected a fine stone, with inscription to his father's
memory and his own, and proceeded under cloud of a winter
evening to the Laigh Kirkyard, where he dug up his father's
bones and carried them away in a bag. Being thirsty by the
way after his resurrection feat, he stepped into a public house
and refreshed himself with liquor, placing the bag of bones
by his side. How long he sat we have not been told ; but
eventually he got his father fairly buried in the other church-
yard close to his own house, and he used to boast in his cups
that he once sat and got drunk in a public house, in the com-
pany of his father, many years after his father's death.

The High Church stands in the centre of the burying
ground, and bears the date 1732. It is a large, plain, square
building, with a spire in which there are clock dials. When
viewing Kilmarnock from the vicinity of the Townhead
it is a prominent object. In 1731 the population had
so increased that the Parish Church was found insufficient,
and the Town Council resolved to erect an additional church
in consequence. The scheme met with the approval of the
Earl of Kilmarnock and Mr. Orr of Grougar, who between
them contributed 1000 merks towards the fund. The Town
Council gave £30 sterling, and the rest was raised by sub-
scription. The building, exclusive of the spire, cost £850.

RAMBLES THROUGH KILMARNOOK. 13

The Earl, besides his subscription, gave the ground at the
nominal feu- duty of one penny Scots, which was to be paid
at a certain spot " if asked."

Upon the erection of the new kirk the ministers of the old
preached by turns in it, but in 1 764 a clergyman was appointed
to the charge, and in 1811 the union between the old and
new churches was severed by the latter being created a parish
church. The diocese was termed " The High Kirk Parish."
Such is a brief outline of the origin and history of the High
Church. Amongst the early ministers of the High Church
may be mentioned the Rev. John Russell, who is said
to have established the first Sabbath School in Kilmar-
iiock. He was robust and very dark complexioned, was a
strict disciplinarian, and used to go through the streets
" between the preachings " with a stout stick in his hand in
quest of Sabbath-breakers. His sermons were always replete
with references to the torments in store for the ungodly.
He seems to have thought that terror of future punishment
was more conducive to make men virtuous than appealing to
the finer feelings of the breast by showing that the pleasure
of doing good brings its own reward. Burjis refers to him
as follows in " The Holy Fair," and no doubt his description
is a correct one : —

" But now the Lord's ain trumpet touts

Till a' the hills are rairin',
And echoes back return the shouts :

Black Russell is na' spairin' ;
His piercing words, like Highland swords,

Divide the joints and marrow ;
His talk o' hell, where devils dwell,
Our vera sauls does harrow

Wi' fricht that day. "

The present minister of the High Church is the Rev. James
Aitken. He takes a deep interest in the homeless, destitute
children of the town, and other matters connected with it.
In the graveyard, a gate opens into Soulis Street, and another
into Back Street. It was in Back Street that Sandy Patrick's
bit " public " was situated. It is said to have been a favourite
" ca' house " of the poet Burns, and that he drank many a
social glass of the cap ale that the landlord brewed on the
premises. Recent town improvements have swept the house
away, and left its site an uncertainty.

14 RAMBLES THROUGH KILMARNOCK.

Leaving the churchyard, I pass along High Street, and
stop before an odd-like building with an inscription on it
stating that it was built in 1705, and rebuilt, 1840. This is
the meal market, a place at which that ingredient which
composes

"The halesome parritch, chief o' Scotia's food,"
was at one time vended ; in fact, it was the only place in the
town where it could be procured, for the Council enacted in
1711 "that all persons sell or retail their meal in the meal
market, and not elsewhere."

Passing Menford Lane, Townhead Bridge and " "Willie
Mair's Brae" come in view. From the brae a beautiful view
can be obtained of the ruin of Dean Castle and the valley
stretching before it. Turning into Dean Lane, a steep, narrow
thoroughfare, I come to Boyd Street. It is a very ancient
street, and is lined on either side with old-fashioned houses
that speak of " the days o' auld lang syne." Like Fore Street,
it was at one time inhabited by people who were well-to-do
in the world, but it is changed days with it now. In this
street the notorious " Timrner Land " is situated. In one
of its rooms a man named Wallace lately dashed the brains
of a little child out against the hearthstone. He was tried
for it, and received twenty years' penal servitude ! Twenty
years for dashing out a child's brains 1 Yes, human life is
at a discount, and hanging has become unfashionable. Across
the lane from Boyd Street, on the right, stands a solitary,
strange-looking thatch cottage. It was at one time a toll-
house, and stood on the old line of road to Glasgow in the
days of stage-coaches. The road originally passed in front of
it, and the coaches rattled down Dean Lane, along High
Street, Soulis Street, Fore Street, and into the Cross ; and
when going to Ayr, down Sandbed Street and on through
Biccarton. Opposite the toll-house is Gallows-knowe, a
place that derives its name from the circumstance that a
gibbet was erected here in the days of feudalism whereon to
hang individuals who were convicted of theft and lesser crimes
than the fellow Wallace received twenty years for. In these
days there were nice distinctions observed. For instance, if
a man was convicted of theft he was hanged, but if a woman
was convicted of the same offence they drowned her in a hole
that was kept for female malefactors. This was called " pit

RAMBLES THROUGH KILMARNOCK. 15

and gallows," the power of which was conferred upon the
Lords Boyd. The first Dissenting church in Kilmarnock was
built on Gallows-knowe in 1772. It was taken down in 1861
upon the congregation removing to a more commodious place
of worship in Portland Eoad.

I now enter Dean Street, opposite Witch Road. Witch
Eoad is a handsome street of recent construction. It is said
to derive its name from a weird-like path that at one time
existed in its locality, and along which (tradition states) those
convicted of witchcraft were led to execution. Turning into
Wellington Street, I enter what may he appropriately termed
the main artery of the town, and pass on my right the High
Church Manse, a quaint building, surrounded by a garden ;
and farther down, on my left, Kay School, a pretty little
Gothic structure, with a playground attached. The cost of
erecting this and another school similar to it in Bentinek
Street was defrayed from a legacy of £5000 bequeathed to
the town for educational purposes by the late Mr Kay the
location of whose birthplace I pointed out when entering the
Foregate. Besides these buildings, Wellington Street cen-
tains some fine villas and substantial houses of a superior
order. At its termination I pause to view Henderson Church
(the Rev. David Landsborough's) and the Fever Hospital.
The first is a plain but neat edifice. It was erected in 1818,
and its congregation then formed a splinter off that of Gallows-
knowe. It is at present under the wing of the Free Church.
The second is a beautiful building, in the Grecian order of
architecture, and consists of a centre and two wings. The
right wing is recently added ; the other portions were built
in 1869. This noble Institution stands on a piece of rising
ground called Mount Pleasant, and from its elevated position
has a handsome appearance. It is wholly supported by sub-
scriptions and donations bestowed by the benevolent. Since
it has been opened three gifts of £500 each have been given
to it by natives of Kilmarnock who have realised competen-
cies. As yet it has never lacked support, and I trust it never
shall, for to many a poor mortal it is a haven in the day of
affliction, and not a few are nurtured and cared for within it
when stricken down by disease who otherwise would pine
from want and inattention.

In the vicinity of the Fever Hospital, but at a higher

16 RAMBLES THROUGH KILMARXOCK.

elevation, stands Saint Joseph's Roman Catholic Chapel. It
was erected in 1847, and occupies a site that overlooks the
town, and command? an extensive view of the surrounding
district. It is attended by a large congregation. The pastor
is the Rev. Peter Forbes.

Wellington Street merges into Portland Street. Passing
along it, the next object that attracts attention is the Free
High Church, a very handsome building of a mixed kind of
architecture. It was erected in 1844 at a cost of £3,000, but
since then it has undergone many alterations and improve-
ments. The Rev. Thomas Main may be said to be its founder.
He was some time minister of the High Church, but seceded
from the Establishment in 1843. The present pastor -is the
Rev. I vie M. Maclachlan, B.A.

Passing under the railway bridge, a short walk brings me
to East and West George Streets. At the corner of the first
named is situated the George Hotel, the largest place of the
kind in town.

Portland Street now assumes a thorough business aspect.
Down to the Cross, where it terminates, both sides are lined
with tall buildings, in which there ia a continuous row of
well-stocked shops. On the left, a little below East George
Street, are situated the premises of the Kilmarnock Equitable
Co-operative Society. On the ground floor there is a large
retail provision store named " the Central," and two doors
from it a shop devoted to cloth and drapery goods. The flat
above "the Central" contains the library, reading-room, and
offices of the Society. The library possesses over one thousand
volumes, and the reading-room is well supplied with news-
papers, magazines, and periodicals. Beside "the Central,"
the Society have seven branch stores scattered through the
town, five of these retail provisions and groceries, one boots
and shoes, and one butcher meat. Their united drawings
average £643 per week. The share capital amounts to £5,424.
The turnover for last year amounted to £30,357, and the
divisible profit to £2,286. .These figures will convey to tho
roader a slight idea of what Co-operation is accomplishing in
Kilmarnock. The business is conducted wholly by working
men — men who have thought out the problem, " What can
be done to better the condition of the working classes?"
Co-operation, when conducted on sound principles, proves

RAMBLES THROUGH KILMARNOCK. 17

that the working classes can better their own condition
morally, physically, and intellectually. The science is but in
its infancy, Co-operators are but feeling their way, but most
assuredly as it gathers strength and expands it will become
the germ of that great Millenium that men are so anxiously
looking forward to. Jostling along Portland Street, there
is nothing remarkable beyond what is to be met with in
business thoroughfares in all populous districts, and arrive
once more in the Cross.

CHAPTER II.

Green Bridge and its environs — London Road — Milldykea — The Irvine, and
Struthers' Steps — Saint Andrew's Burying-Ground and Church —
Glencairn Square and its Associations — High Glencairn Street — King
Street — King Street U.P. Church — The Council House.

TAKING the Cross again as my starting-point, and
traversing Duke Street, I pass the Corn Exchange and
arrive at Green Bridge. Tradition states that there was a
ford in early times at this spot, and a popular anecdote has it
that a certain farmer and a female servant crossed it every
Sabhath on their way to church — the farmer most ungallantly,
for he did so on the hack of the maid, it being part of her
duty to carry her master across. In course of time the
•worthy farmer resolved to take Jenny to wife, and finding
her acquiescent they repaired to Kilmarnock on foot to get
the knot tied. At the ford Jenny bore her wonted burden
across in safety, after which they proceeded to the minister
and had their wish consummated. Reaching the ford on
their way home, Jenny kilted her coats and paddled across,
leaving her now husband behind. " Jenny, lass," cried he,
" ye maun carry me owre." — " Na, na," she replied, " when
we cam to the toun I was yer servant ; noo I'm yer wife an'
yer equal, sae ye can strip yer shoon an' come awa'."

Looking up the river — if the Kilmarnock Water can be
designated such — the scene is murkily romantic. The view
is terminated by the railway viaduct, and almost beneath the
arch that spans the stream the water falls over the weir of
the Bark Brae dam and purls along its polluted channel,
tainted with extraneous matter. To the right a steep bank
clothed with wood rises abruptly from the water edge. On
its brow an old-fashioned mansion called Braehead House,
the residence of Mr T. B. Andrews, peers from its sylvan
retreat, and near to the bridge, some distance below the level
of the road, there is a small nursery and a neat bowling green.
On the left are the works of Gregory, Thomsons, & Co., and
between them and the road is the Town Green, a small piece
of ground the townspeople have the right of bleaching

RAMBLES THROUGH KILMARNOCK. 19

their clothes on. It was at one time of much greater extent,
but the erection of the Academy and other buildings, and the
construction of the road over the bridge, have greatly narrowed
its limits. Above the house-tops in the distance the Roman
Catholic Chapel and the Fever Hospital stand prominently
' out, and more near the gilded, dome-like spire of the High
Church is a conspicuous object.

Down the stream the scene still retains a degree of
picturesqueness. On the right, surrounded by a playground,
stands the Kilmarnock Academy, a plain, unassuming edifice.
It was erected in 1807. Many eminent teachers have laboured
within it, and not a few natives who were educated in it have
distinguished themselves and attained honourable positions.
The opposite bank is an almost perpendicular steep. It is
studded with trees, and over its summit passes the old line
of road to the town. The houses which line it are primitive
in construction and quaint-like in appearance. From Green
Bridge I push along London Road, and pass a cluster of old
houses at the entrance to Tankard Ha' Brae. Beyond these,
a short walk along this truly pleasing highway brings me to
Burnside. Opposite is Elmbank, the beautiful residence of
Mr John Gilmour, coalmaster ; and a little further on I pass
the handsome villa of our worthy Provost, Mr Peter Sturrock ;
then that of Orchardhill, the residence of Mr Gross, procurator-
fiscal. From Orchardhill to the Newmill burn there is a
long row of elegant villas, with flower-plots in front and
gardens behind. In style of architecture they are very dis-
similar, but they are all graceful and neat, and are on the
whole very handsome residences. The last two buildings of
the range are beautiful specimens of domestic architecture,
and are equal to any of the merchant princes' houses in the
West End of Glasgow. One is the property of Mr Gavin
Anderson, coalmaster, and the other of Mr Alexander Walker,
wine merchant. Others equally palatial are in course of
erection. London Road undoubtedly contains the finest
houses of any thoroughfare in Kilmarnock.

Crossing Newmill burn, I turn to the right and enter a
rural avenue which skirts the trickling streamlet. Strolling
by the side of its hedgerows admiring the wide expanse of
country before me, I soon arrive at the Irvine and at a small
bridge that crosses the burnie a little above where it falls

20 RAMBLES THROUGH KILMARNOCK.

into the river. The road over the bridge was and still is a
favourite walk of the lads and lasses of the town, and also of
older people whose daffin' days have long since passed away.
It is called the Milldykes. It leads to Struthers' Steps, a
romantic spot, where there is a ford and where stepping-
stones connect the banks of the river. The scene is well
described by Mr David Smith, of Aberdeen, in a poem
entitled "Youthful Days." Musing on the haunts of his
boyhood he says —

" And now appears another scene :
The Struthers' Steps, with banks so green,
Stand out before me bright and clear,
And bring a flood of memories dear.
Low, nestling close beside the hill
Stands Riccarton's old famous mill ;
The railway bridge lifts high its head
Above the Irvine's lowly bed ;
By Katneshill's dark and gloomy wood
The river pours its silent flood."

Near to the bridge that crosses Newmill burn the Irvine
takes one of its fantastically abrupt turns, after which it
pursues a tolerably straight course until it passes the village
of Riccarton. Here also the Newmill lade enters the river,
and the mill itself is seen in the distance looking picturesque
beneath the shade of some tall trees. Straying along the
river bank, I pass the Small-Pox Hospital, and after a short
walk arrive at the foot of Welbeck Street. Here stands a
large print-work named the Defiance ; it was at one time a
busy place, but it has long stood inactive, and it is only
occasionally of late that the quiet which pervades its interior
is broken by the busy clatter of blocks. Near to the Defiance
stands the recently-erected bonnet yarn mills of Messrs
Douglas, Eeyburn, & Co. They are somewhat extensive, and
contain wonder-working machinery of the most approved
description. There are also adjacent the skin-works of
Messrs Adam Crooks & Son, and the tweed weaving factory
of Messrs Hannah & Company. Passing up Welbeck Street,
I arrive at Robertson Place, or, as it is more commonly called,
" the Newton;" but as it contains nothing of interest I turn
to the left and enter what is termed Richardland Road.

RAMBLES THROUGH KILMARNOCR. 21

Richardland Road is the new name of what formed part of
the Milldykes. Beyond its entrance there are as yet no
buildings. It still retains its hedges and much of its original
rusticity. When about half-way through this quiet thorough-
fare, I arrive at Saint Andrew's Burying-Ground. It is a
small place, and has long been inadequate to the wants of
the population ; but at present a tine new Cemetery is in
course of formation on the farm of Holehouse, in the
vicinity of London Road. Saint Andrew's Burying-Ground
was opened in 1837, and from that date until now (1875)
over nineteen thousand interments have taken place in it.
I might state how the sextons have managed to crowd a
number nearly equal to the entire present population of the
town into such a small area, but the subject is a disagreeable
one, and therefore I decline. In this burying-ground there
are several neat monuments and many handsome head-stones,
but none commemorating any very remarkable individual.
There is a stone to the memory of Thomas Hendrie, who was
sexton in Saint Andrew's for thirty-five years. He died in
April, 1874, at the ripe age of seventy-five. A relative
of his kindly allowed me to examine the graveyard books,
and I find that during the time he held office he buried
no less than 17,605 bodies. I knew the man. His lieart
and soul were in his occupation. He delighted to speak of
his " yard," and nothing gave him greater pleasure than to
recount incidents of his life as a gravedigger. Often have I
listened to him with a kind of shudder, but although some-
what eccentric on this point he was nevertheless a decent,
honest old man. He used to boast of the quality of the earth
in Saint Andrew's, and declare that it was so dry that it was
fit for Queen Victoria to lie in. I have heard it said that he
carried a sample of it in his vest pocket, but I rather think
he was too sensible a man for that.

Adjoining Saint Andrew's Burying-Ground is Saint
Andrew's Established Chuich (the Rev. Thomas Martin's).
It was built in 1841, and is a plain square block, with a
belfry. Near to it Milldykes merges into Bentinck Street,
opposite East ISTetherton. The houses in East Netherton are
mostly thatched cottages. It is a very old street, and was at
one time almost entirely occupied by weavers. Carpets were
woven in it, and in reference to this Burns in his " Ordiua-

22 RAMBLES THROUGH KILMARNOCK.

tion," when speaking of the Rev. Mr Robertson, says—

" Or, nae reflection on your lair,

Yon may commence a shaver;
Or to the Netherton repair,
And turn a carpet wearer. "

Turning down Bentinck Street, I pass Kay School, a Gothic
building similar to the one already noticed in Wellington
Street. It is surrounded by a spacious playground. In
1872 Bentinck Street was extended to East Shaw Street. This
was a much-needed improvement, for it cleared away an
unsightly old printwork, and opened up what yet will
become a handsome thoroughfare.

Arriving in East Shaw Street, I turn down to Glencairn
Square. East Shaw Street has not an elegant appearance ;
the houses are, with few exceptions, one-storeyed and covered
with thatch. Environed with pleasant grounds, in this
neighbourhood is Shawbank, the handsome villa of Mr James
Wilson, banker. At the foot of East Shaw Street flows the
river Irvine, and beyond it there is a fine view of an exten-
sive track of open country. There also stands the hydraulic
engineering works of the Glenfield Iron Company; they
employ about one hundred and fifty hands, and carry on a
large export trade.

Entering Glencairn Square, I pause to look about me before
turning my face towards the Cross. The square is spacious,
but the buildings in it, with two or three exceptions, are
thatched, low-roofed, dingy dwellings. Four streets branch
off it, viz., High Gleucairn Street, Low Glencairn Street, and
East and West Shaw Streets. These streets are parallel to
each other. High and Low Glencairn streets form part of
the main artery of the town. Intersecting Glencairn Square,
the thoroughfare passes through the adjacent village of
Eiccarton and on to Ayr. In Low Glencairn Street are
situated the works of the Water Meter Company ; they
employ about one hundred and thirty hands, and carry on
an extensive business in the manufacture of meters alone.
At the foot of the same street are the Holm Foundry and
the engineering works of Messrs Barclays & Co. At the foot
of West Shaw Street is the carpet and rug factory of Mr
John Wilson. The works, which are pretty extensive, are

RAMBLES THROUGH KILMARNOCK. 23

situated near the Kilmarnock Water, and close to the resi-
dence of the proprietor.

Glencairn Square, and also the handsome line of street —
nearly three-quarters of a mile in length — that passes through
it, were opened up in 1765 hy William, thirteenth Earl of
Glencairn, who acquired the lands and superiority of Kilmar-
nock in 1749. Upon his acquisition this nobleman did
much to improve the town, and none of the many schemes
he entered into for the purpose have heen more "beneficial to
the community than his doing away with the tortuous narrow
path which connected Kilmarnock with Riccarton, and opening
a highway that has heen compared by an eminent topographist
to Leith Walk.

In April, 1800, many of the houses in Glencairn Square
were destroyed by fire. At that date a malt-house stood next
door to the old school-house in East Shaw Street, and by the
overheating of one of its kilns the place took fire. Tongues
of flame shot through the roof, which like those in its vicinity
was covered with thatch, and rendered combustible by con-
tinuous dry weather seized upon the school, lapped up every
thing flammable, gathered into a huge mass of fire,
voraciously leaped from roof to roof, rounded the corner of
the square, and passed down Low Glencairn Street on its
course of devastation; nor was it stayed until it had left
thirty-five dwellings a smoking mass of ruins, and rendered
nearly eighty families homeless and destitute who two hours
previous had not dreamt of danger or misfortune.*

An appeal that was made to the public for subscriptions
to aid the sufferers from the calamitous catastrophe was
liberally responded to, and they were aided to tide over
what would have been to many of them absolute ruin.

Many of the weavers and shoemakers of the Holm were
zealous Radicals, and in the year 1819 they were so persuaded
that nothing but physical force would ever compel the
Government to listen to the cry of the people, that they
collected all the swords, guns, pistols, and pikes they could

* A landlord of one of the burned houses in Low Glencairn Street
wished to get rid of an obnoxious tenant, but failing to give him notice to quit at
the proper time the individual refused to give up the house. This, of course,
caused a dispute between the parties ; but the landlord had his revenge, for when
the flames laid hold of the building he thrust his head into the door of the house,
and in the most sarcastic manner cried, "Sit still noo, John; sit still and be
d d to ye."

24 RAMBLES THROUGH KILMATTSOCK.

lay hands on, in the expectation that a general rising would
take place. The men of the Holm quarter, however, were
not the only individuals engaged in those warlike prepara-
tions, for nearly the whole of Kilmarnock, and a great portion
of the people of the West of Scotland, were affected with the
same mania. An assimilation of opinions naturally draw
men together, and the Radicals of the Holm met during meal-
times and spare hours in the evenings in Glencairn. Square
to take into consideration and discuss the affairs of the
nation. These meetings were the origin of what was known
in after years as " the Holm Parliament ;" and no man was
more respected in them than the late worthy James, or, as
lie was generally called, " Colonel" Osborne. He was looked
to as a kind of authority in matters of politics, and was
generally the principal speaker. The reason he was
daubed " Colonel" was that he was appointed commander of
a party of Radicals who attended a county meeting at Ayr in.
November, 1819. .They met in Glencairn Square, and having
been put in marching order by the " Colonel," he cast his
eye along the line, and with a flourish of his staff and in a
voice of thunder gave the word "March." The procession,
which was preceded by two females bearing a cap of Liberty
on a pole, moved forward to the strains of music, and passed
through Riccarton with banners flying.

On the morning of the 14th April, 1820, when .the
Edinburgh Yeomanry Cavalry invaded the town, Glencairn
Square presented an unusual appearance. Members of the
corps rode up and down it and the adjoining streets with
drawn sabres, and would allow no one to leave their houses
until a search for suspected persons had been completed.
The enthusiasm of the Radicals was on the wane that morn-
ing, for there was a general scramble amongst them to gain
Caprington Woods or any other place of concealment.

" The Holm Parliament " continued its standing in
Glencairn Square for fifty-two years, but time cooled the
enthusiasm and silvered the hair of many of its members,
and death and removals to other districts so thinned its
numbers that it gradually dissolved. The "Colonel" continued
a prominent speaker of the " Parliament," and lived to see
many political changes ; and when age and infirmities began
to tell on him he was considerately accommodated with a

RAMBLES THROUGH KILMARXOCK. 25

chair, and the knights of the shuttle and the awl crowded
round him and fought with voice and gesture the "battles of
the House of Commons over again. The " Colonel" remained
a Eadical to the end of the chapter, and died in March, 1859,
aged seventy-eight.

From the Square I pass up High Glencairn Street and
arrive at East and "West ISTetherton Streets. In West
Netherton stands the extensive power-loom factory of Messrs
T. & J. Ferguson. At the Nethertons Titchlield Street
begins, but like Glencairn Street, it possesses few modern
buildings. Behind is the village of Eiccarton, and beyond
it the romantic hills of Craigie. In front, and looking as if
it blocked up the thoroughfare, stands the Relief, or — beg its
pardon — King Street United Presbyterian Church, with its
tapering spire, On my right is the Galleon Brae, a row of
old thatched cottages that stand above the lerel of the road.
Opposite is the neat mansion of Ex-Provost Dickie, with a
lamp in front of it, on the top of which is the " loupin'
hand." Mr. Dickie filled the civic chair for thirteen years,
and for a long period has taken a deep interest in the welfare
of the town. Upon his retirement from the Provostship he
was presented with a handsome testimonial by the members
of the Council and other friends. Passing onward, a sharp
walk brings me to the entrance of King Street. Branching
off to the right is Fowlds and Saint Andrew Streets. In the
first-named is Free Saint Andrew's Church, a large, gloorny-
like building. Beyond it is the Meeting-House of the
Original Seceders, and farther on, on the same side, is the
Baptist Chapel. It is of recent erection, and is a neat little
place of worship. The second-named street is undergoing
a transformation. Buildings are springing up rapidly, and
new streets are being formed off it in the direction of the
Newton. A short distance up King Street I pause before
the Presbyterian Church referred to above. It stands at the
corner of Saint Marnock Street, and is a beautiful building
of a mixed kind of architecture. From the centre of its front
towers a graceful spire, one hundred and twenty-six feet in
height, which gives to the whole structure an imposing
appearance. This church is well attended, and internally it
is commodious and neatly fitted up. It was erected in 1832.
The present minister is the Eev. Alexander Brown. There

26 RAMBLES THROUGH KILMARXOCK.

is little of importance connected with the history of its con-
gregation. Its founders were a few individuals who left the
Parish Church of Eiccarton, in 1798, because the patron
denied them the choice of a minister. Erecting a meeting-
house in the village, at the top of New Street, they worshipped
in it until the year 1814, when they removed to Kilmarnock,
having built a church on the spot that the present building
occupies. The reason of the change was that their numbers
had greatly increased, and the augmentation coming principally
from Kilmarnock they considered it prudent to have their
place of worship more central. The congregation after its
removal rapidly increased, and the new church becoming too
small it was pulled down, hence the erection of this com-
modious building.

I now pass up King Street, which is the principal business
thoroughfare of the town. It is broad, well paved, and
regularly built, and is lined on either side with large and roomy
shops. On rny right I pass the Post-Office, a miserable-
looking place of the kind, and anything but a credit to a
town of the size and importance of Kilmarnock. Higher up
on the same side, and near to the entrance of the Cross,
stands the Council House. It is built on the top of the arch
through which the Kilmarnock Water flows on its way
through the town. It was erected in 1805, and is a plain,
graceful building of two storeys. The ground floor is occu-
pied by shops; the upper floor contains the Town Hall,
Town Clerks' Office, and a waiting room. The hall is small,
and only capable of seating little over two hundred individuals.
In it are held the Police and Justice of Peace Courts. The
walls are decorated with beautiful portraits in oil. One is
that of Sir James Shaw in his Lord Mayor's robes; another
that of Sir John Dunlop of Dunlop, the first M.P. for the
Kilmarnock District of Burghs ; a full length of the late Earl
of Eglinton, and a well-executed likeness of the poet Burns
by William Tannock, after Nasmyth's celebrated picture.
Leisurely strolling along the street, I once more enter the
Cross, and again make it my starting-point.

CHAPTER III.

Cheapside Street— The Old Tolbooth— The Low Church of former days and
its Associations — The Churchyard — John Dickie Street — Dunlop Street
— The Astronomical Observatory — Langlands Street — John Finnic
Street — Tha New Theatre — St. Marnock Street — The Courthouse —
Kilmarnock House — Dundonald Road — The Public Park — Waterside
— Sandbed Street.

OBSERVING that the beautiful statue of Sir James Shaw,
which adorns the centre of the Cross, appeared to be intently
gazing down Cheapside Street, I took it as a hint and passed
into that short thoroughfare. In front is the massive square
tower of the Low Church. It bears the date 1410, and now
stands prominently out since the old buildings that clustered
about its base have been removed. At the Crown Hotel
I pause and muse on other days, for, according to M'Kay, it
was nearly opposite it where the Old Tolbooth stood. He
says — " It was a gloomy-looking structure two storeys high,
with a small 'bell-house,' and shops on the ground floor
facing the street. The bell that belonged to it is still used
in the present Council-house, and bears this inscription: —
' This bell was gifted by the Earl of Kilmarnock to the town
of Kilmarnock for their Council-house. A.M., Edin., 1711.'
Down a lane at the west end of the building was the Thieves'
Hole, and above were two dungeon-like apartments called the
Tolbooth, at the stairhead of which hung the Juggs, or iron
collar, in which petty delinquents were doomed to stand for
a given time exposed to the gaze of the multitude. The part
of the upper flat nearest the Cross forrnea the Hall, or Court-
house, the entrance to which was by a broad outside stair
faced with a parapet. From the head of this stair the whole
of the market-place was seen ; and here, on public occasions,
such as Kings' birthdays, the Bailies and Councillors, accom-
panied sometimes by the lord of the manor, would assemble
to drink His Majesty's health and give other loyal and
patriotic toasts. The Old Tolbooth was taken down about
the beginning of the present century.''

From the above quotation we learn that Cheapside, as it is
now called, has been a street of considerable importance. It

28 RAMBLES THROUGH KILMARXOCK.

still remains so, but contains nothing nowadays worthy of
notice, therefore " swith to the Laigh Kirk" T now take my
way. It stands at the end of Cheapside, and about a stone-
throw from the Cross ; but, oh, what a change has taken place
in its vicinity since last year ! Low Church Lane has all but
disappeared, and only a portion of the Strand is now
left, the hand of improvement having swept away the old
buildings that lined these thoroughfares, and their sites form
a handsome new street which is named after our late provost.
It runs from Bank Street to John Finnie Street, and doubt-
less in future years it will be the main way between the
western portion of the town and the Cross. The present
Low Church is a massive, plain building. It was erected in
1802 on the site of a less commodious edifice that has been
rendered classical by the poet Burns as the scene of The
Ordination — a poem brimful of that biting sarcasm that he
so unerringly hurled at the hypocritical shams of his day.
All that now remains of the former building — and very
probably of one anterior to it — is the square tower already
referred to, which has withstood the blast for centuries.

The Low Church of Burns's day was the scene of a disgrace-
ful riot at the induction of a distasteful minister, and of a
melancholy catastrophe that sent a wail of grief and lamenta-
tion through the streets of Kilmarnock. The first-mentioned
event took place in 1764, and the facts may be briefly related
as follows : — Upon the death of the Rev. Robert Hall the
second charge became vacant, and the Earl of Glencairn — the
then patron — appointed the Rev. Mr. Lindsay of Cumbray to
the office. This appointment the people of Kilmarnock did
not approve of, and they determined to oppose it, for the fol-
lowing reasons : — In the first place, they did not consider Mr.
Lindsay qualified to be their minister ; and, secondly, it was
through the influence of his wife, Margaret Lauder, who had
been a governess in the Earl's family, that he had obtained
the appointment, and not through any merit he possessed
as a preacher. In spite of the opposition to the nomination
of Mr. Lindsay, the Earl took his own way in the matter, and
fixed the 12th of July as the day on which his ordination
was to take place. " Time brought the day, the hour, the
man," but it also brought the town's-people from workshop
and dwelling, who, armed with every obnoxious missile they

RAMBLES THROUGH KILMAENOCK. 29

could lay hands on, thronged the approaches to the Low
Church. The excitement was intense, and when the patron,
the presentee, and other clergymen and gentlemen made their
appearance, they were hooted, jostled, and pelted with mud
and filth to such an extent that it was with the utmost diffi-
culty they gained the interior of the church; but they
were not safe even there, for, to quote from a metrical account
of the tumult that was written at the period by a poet of
some local fame : — °

******

While Brown was praying, I suppose,
A stane cam whin-ing near his nose;
Says he, ' Our wark we now maun close.'
Good people hear my ditty.

Puir Taylor Steen, precentor there.
They rave his wig aff ilka hair,
And left the body's noddle bare.
Good people hear my ditty.

And Bailie Baps he gat a shog,
Outowce the head, wi' Lambert's dog,
That laid him senseless as a log.

Good people bear my ditty.

Though meek and gentle Lindsay was,
And had at heart the guid auld cause,
Yet nocht could mak' the rabble pause.
Good people hear my ditty.

Their fury raise to sic a height,
That here he durst not pass the night,
But aff to Irvine took his flight.

Good people hear my ditty.

Pursued with hisses, yells, and groans,
And mony a shower o' dirt and stones,
Their wicked rage he sair .bemoans.

Good people hear my ditty.
******

At e'en Lang Tarn, that howkes the stanes,
Gaed to the inn to pike the banes,
And to gie in the leaders' names.

Good people hear my ditty."

Ten ringleaders of the riot were apprehended, as the poet

* Burns refers to it as "a scoffing ballad." It is preserved by M 'Kay in his
" History of Kilmamock," and by James Paterson in " Songs and Ballads of
Ayrshire. '

30 RAMBLES THROUGH KILMARNOCK.

states, upon the information of Lang Tarn. They were tried
at Ayr. Three were found guilty and sentenced "to be
imprisoned for one month, and whipt through the streets,
and to find caution for keeping the peace and a good behaviour
for a twelvemonth." The other seven were liberated. The
Rev. Mr. Lindsay entered on his duties in the Low Church,
but died ten years after, and was succeeded by the Eev. Mr.
Mutrie, who was succeeded by the Rev. James Mackinlay.
All three are mentioned by Burns in the " Ordination."

From the riot and its ludicrous incidents I will now turn
to a more grave subject, and briefly refer to the melancholy
catastrophe that occurred in the Low Church of former days.
The building, Avhich was incommodious and badly constructed,
had long been considered unsafe — so much so that a popular
prophecy stated that it would one day fall and bury the
congregation in its ruins. This foolish prediction seems to
have had some little weight in the public mind, for upon
Sabbath, the 18th of October, 1801, when the church was
unusually crowded a panic was occasioned, some say by a
piece of plaster falling from the ceiling, others by the cracking
of a seat in the gallery. Imagining that the prophecy waa
about to be fulfilled, and that the walls of the building were
about to collapse, the bulk of the congregation rushed to the
doors, and in their anxiety to escape crushed and trampled
each other in their wild haste. Agonizing screams issued
from the struggling mass of human beings in the corridors
that rang through the building, and heightened the terror
and dread that prevailed in the minds of the deluded
throng. Unmindful of the fostering care of the Almighty
Being whom they had assembled to worship, many for the
moment discarded all their vaunted trust in Him, and allowed
the brutal instinct of self-preservation to predominate, and
sought to gratify it by throwing down and treading upon the
weak and the helpless.

" Then shrieked the timid and stood still the brave."
Many sought refuge by jumping through the windows into
the graveyard, and others in their despair threw themselves
from the gallery into the body of the church, and heightened
the pandemonium by their cries and maniacal actions.
Tidings of the occurrence spread. People flocked to the
scene, and the greatest excitement prevailed among the excited,

RAMBLES THROUGH KILMARXOCK. 31

horror-stricken mob who thronged every approach to the
church. Ladders were procured and the building was entered
by the windows, for the doors, which opened inwardly, had
become shut by the pressure of those who blindly struggled
to escape from the interior. The scene presented was
indescribable. Behind the doors and along the passages the
dead, the dying, the maimed, and the mangled, lay piled
together in a trodden mass, and it was with much difficulty
they were extricated and borne to the churchyard, where
they were laid for recognition. This in some instances was
most difficult, for many of the bodies were so disfigured that
they were unrecognisable, and it was only by dress and other
marks they were identified. I need not dwell upon the
scenes of anguish in the churchyard, or tell of the agonizing
wails of grief that rent many a bosom that afternoon. Suffice
it to say that when all were got out of the building it was
found there were twenty-nine killed and upwards of
eighty injured, many severely. Homes in Kilmarnock and
its vicinity that had resounded in the morning with family
glee were by the going down of the sun abodes of mourning.
Parents bewailed children, children parents, sisters brothers,
and brothers sisters, while relatives and friends wept and
lamented those who in the full vigour of life had been cut
down and gathered into the garner of deatn. After the
melancholy occurrence the church was taken down and the
present one built. It is possessed of the opposite qualities
of its predecessor, being spacious, comfortable, and well pro-
vided with means of egress.

The Low Churchyard contains several tombstones of
peculiar interest, not the least of which are those to the
memory of Tarn Samson of elegaic ^iame, the Rev. John
Eobertson, and John Mackinlay, D.D., who, as the handsome
new tombstone states, was " minister of this parish for fifty-
four years." The tablet on Mr. Robertson's grave is not in
the best order, but that to the memory of the famous Tarn,
which is railed in, is in excellent condition. On it is inscribed
the following epitaph from the pen of Robert Burns which is
appended to the worthy sportsman's elegy —
" Tarn Samson's weel-worn clay here lies,

Ye canting zealots spare him !
If honest worth in heaven rise,
Ye'll mend ere ye win near him. "

32 RAMBLES THROUGH KILMARXOCK.

These three stones are situated at the north-west corner of
the church. The two clergymen lie side by side, and the
" weel-worn clay" of Mr Samson rests at the head of their
graves, all three being buried in close proximity, which is a
remarkable coincidence, seeing that they are all mentioned in
the first verse of Tam's elegy in the following order —

" Has auld Kilmarnock seen the Deil ?
Or great Mackinlay thrawn his heel ?
Or Kobertson again grown weel,

To preach and read ?
' N», waur than a' !' cries ilka chiel,

' Tarn Samson's dead.' "

Want of space compels me to omit noticing this old church-
yard at any great length, therefore I will briefly refer to
stones commemorating local heroes who suffered for " Christ
and the Covenanted Work of Reformation," and pass on my
way. The first of these stands at the back of the church,
near the gravel walk, and bears the following inscription: —
" Here lie the heads of John Ross and John Shields, who
suffered at Edinburgh, Dec. 27th, 1666, and had their heads
set up in Kilmarnock.

" Our persecutors mad with wrath and ire,
In Edinburgh members some do be, some here;
Yet instantly united they shall be,
And witness 'gainst this nation's perjury."
(See " Cloud of Witnesses. ")

These men were spies from the ranks of the Covenanters,
and when apprehended they were found in the possession of
arms, and to be in the town for the purpose of conveying
intelligence of the movements of the King's troops to their
confederates. Either crime at the period was a capital
offence. Ross was a native of Mauchline, and Shields was a
cottar on the estate of Nether Pollock. The next stone
stands about the centre of the churchyard and is elaborately
carved. On the top is a pistol, cross swords, and flags, the
stems of which pass behind a scroll on which is graven
"Solemn League and Covenant." One flag bears the inscription
"God and our Country," and the other the device of a crown.
The inscription is as follows : — " Here lies John Nisbet, who
was taken by Major Balfour's party, and suffered at Kilmar-
nock, 14th April, 1683, for adhering to the word of God and

RAMBLES THROUGH KILMARNOCK. 33

our Covenants. — Rev. xii. and 11. Renewed by public con-
tribution A.D., 1823.

" Come, reader, see, here pleasant Nisbet lies,
His blood doth pierce the high and lofty skies ;
Kilmarnock did his latter hour perceive, ,

And Christ his soul to heaven did receive.
Yet bloody Torrence did his body raise
And buried it into another place ;
Saying, ' Shall rebels lye in graves with me ! —
We'll bury him where evil doers be."'

For the account of Nisbet's accusation and execution I refer
the reader back to the notice of the Cross.

The next and last stone to the memory of the martyrs is
indented into the churchyard wall nearly opposite the old
manse. On the top is an open book with the inscription,
" Psalm XLIV., 17. Rev. ii., 10." Beneath is the follow-
ing :—" Erected 1823. Repaired 1846. Sacred to the
memory of Thomas Findlay, John Cuthbertson, William
Brown, Robert and James Anderson (natives of this parish),
who were taken prisoners at Bothwell, June 22nd, 1679, sen-
tenced to transportation for life, and drowned on their passage
near the Orkney Isles. Also, John Findlay, who suffered
martyrdom 15th Dec., 1682, in the Grassmarket, Edinburgh."

" Peace to the church ! when foes her peace invade,
Peace to each noble martyr's honoured shade !
They, with undaunted courage, truth, and zeal,
Contended for the church and country's weal ;
We share the fruits, we drop the grateful tear,
And peaceful altars o'er their ashes rear."

The first-named five were, as the stone states, transported for
life for their share in the battle of Bothwell Bridge. America
was the country assigned them, and they, with 245 others
who had been found guilty of the same offence, were — after
undergoing much hardship and ill-usage — put on board of a
vessel at Leith and confined under hatches. They received
brutal usage at the hands of the captain and crew, but this had
a sudden termination, for a storm arose and dashed the vessel
against the rocks of Darness, near Orkney, and laid her a total
wreck. Fifty escaped and 200 were drowned. The last
named (John Findlay) who suffered martyrdom seems to have
been the tenant of Muirside and to have been a man of sterling
worth, and, according to the light he had, of great piety.

34 RAMBLES THROUGH KILMA.RNOCK.

The charges brought against him were, 1st. Keeping company
with the persecuted people of God. 2nd. For refusing to call
Bishop Sharp's death murder, and the battle of Both well Bridge
rebellion. 3rd. For giving food and shelter to the Covenanters.
His last speech and testimony is given at length in " The
Cloud of Witnesses." He considered himself greatly honoured
by the laying down of his life for the cause he loved so well.
The Laigh Kirkyard, as it is called, was at one time of much
greater extent. Tradition states that it extended down to the
brink of the river, and excavations that have from time to
time been made in its neighbourhood prove that where streets
are now formed and buildings erected has at one time been
part of God's Acre, but at what period history saith not. I
was much interested in some excavations that were made
during the formation of John Dickie Street. Human skulls and
bones, and, in many instances, entire skeletons were exhumed.
These remains — which were carefully collected and buried in
the graveyard — were no sheep shanks, but many bones were
of surprising size and thickness. One thighbone that I lifted
and examined would have served me for a walking stick, and
a skull I had in my hand appeared to have belonged to
some one with a head. It was unusually large, finely formed,
and the region of the intelligent organs well developed. One
sight I will not readily forget was that of a skeleton
over six feet long imbedded in clay beneath the sur-
face of what had been Low Church Lane. A labourer care-
fully removed the clay with his spade from about it, collected
the bones, and had them removed to the graveyard. The
sight impressed me very much, and even as I write I think I
see the grinning skull — grinning as if the remnant of all that
was mortal resented being disturbed. At one time these
bones had formed the framework of some one's idol, which
possibly had been laid there by loving friends who long ago

' ' Have been ordained the same cold bed,
The same dark night, the same long sleep."

But a truce to this moralizing. To judge by the bones that
I saw exhumed, men are degenerating — yes, degenerating in
natural worth — and if they continue, doubtless they will
arrive back at what some people would have us believe was
the starting-point, viz., Darwin's ape ; for the brawny brose
and porridge fed Scotchmen of yore, who seemingly were

RAMBLES THROUGH KILMARNOCK. 35

possessed of greater physical qualifications and greater power
of endurance than is generally met with in the men of to-day,
have passed away, and a generation who have fallen off in
stature and bodily strength now occupy their places. But I
am beginning to moralize again.

Leaving the churchyard, I pass up John Dickie Street, and
stop to view the remnant of Low Church Lane. It is meagre
indeed, and consists of a few old biggins facing the wall at
the back of the churchyard. The first of these is a two-
storeyed venerable building, with a mansion-like appearance,
that has had a narrow escape of being pulled down, for the
new street passes alongside its gable. This is called "the
Manse." It is now occupied by tenants, but in the olden
time it was a clerical residence of some note. The last
clergyman who lived in it was the Eev. Eobert Jaffray, first
minister of Gallows-knowe Church. He died in 1814. At
the north-west corner of the churchyard, facing College Wynd,
stands a tumble-down-like old house that is said to have been
at one time a college ; if so, it must have been of small
dimensions, but from the name of the wynd it is reasonable
to infer that it is only a remnant of some educational estab-
lishment whose history is swallowed up in the oblivious past.
Reaching the top of John Dickie Street, I cross John Finnie
Street and enter Dunlop Street. It is a short, narrow street.
On my left is the office of the Parochial Board, and set on a
hill on my right, with sloping gardens in front, are three
handsome mansions that overlook the town. The centre one
with the niche — which is doubtless waiting for a statue of
Burns — is the residence of Mr. James M'Kie, the well-known
publisher. Passing Grange Street, at the corner of which is
the extensive carpet factory of Hugh Wilson & Son, I
begin to climb Park Street — or "the Wee Gas Brae" as
it is more commonly called — and arrive at Morton Place.
Situated in a back court, and towering over the house-tops,
is a square block of masonry seventy feet high. It is the
Astronomical Observatory. It was built in 1818 by the late
Thomas Morton, who was born at Mauchline in 1783, and
died at Kilrnarnock in 1862. Mr. Morton was a famed con-
structor of telescopes and other optical instruments, and was
also an ingenious machinist. He conferred a great boon on.
carpet manufacturers by inventing the "barrel" machine for

36 RAMBLES THROUGH KILMA.RHOCK.

carpet manufacture, and by improving other pieces of mechan-
ism in connection with the trade. The Observatory is now
the property of Mr. Thomas Lee, F.R.A.S. Passing along
Langlands Street, which is lined on either side with working
men's houses, I pass the Academy of Mr. Eose, and enter
West Langlands Street. In it are situated the principal
workshops of the town, viz., the extensive engineering
establishment of Messrs. Barclay & Son, also that of Messrs.
M'Culloch, and Allan Andrews & Co. Beyond these are the
workshops of the South- Western Railway Co., in whose service
over 600 men are employed. Near to the railway workshops
is Bonny ton Square, which consists of a series of blocks of
substantial dwelling-houses erected by the Company for the
accommodation of their workmen. The buildings are finely
situated, and command a view of a wide range of country.
Besides a large saw mill, the gas work is situated in this
street. It belonged to a joint-stock company that was formed
in 1822, but it is now the property of the town, being lately
purchased by the Corporation.

Turning down Langlands Brae, I have on my left the
Railway Station. Vast improvements are going on at it;
old buildings have been pulled down, and new premises
erected. When the alterations are complete, a station worthy
of the town will be the result.

At the top of West George Street I turn to the right and
enter John Finnic Street. This street was opened up about
ten years ago by the liberality of a native whose name it
bears. It is fast assuming importance, and bids fair in an
architectural point of view to be the finest thoroughfare in
town. It runs from the foot of Langlands Brae to Saint
Marnock Street, is broad and straight, and fully a quarter of
a mile in length. A short distance along it on the left stands
the New Theatre, a building that far surpasses anything of
the kind in the West of Scotland. It is just completed,
licensed, and opened under the management of Mr. William
Glover, of the Theatre-Royal, Glasgow. The interior is com-:
modious, beautifully fitted up, and seated for twelve hundred.
Externally it is of large proportions. The front — which is Co-
rinthian and elaborately ornamental — is gracefully chaste.
It may not be inappropriate to refer to former theatres in
Kilmarnock, for the drama has had several unsuccessful

RAMBLES THROUGH KILMARNOCK. 37

struggles to gain a footing in the town, not the least of
which was the attempt in "Back Causeway" somewhere
about thirty years ago. This theatre — or at least the stabling
that was converted into such — was a rude affair of the kind ;
yet nevertheless the proprietors did their best to awaken a
theatrical taste in the townspeople by engaging such actors
as Edmund Kean, G. V. Brookes, Charles Vernon, and others ;
but they did not meet with the encouragement that their
efforts merited, and after struggling for some years they had
to give up for want of support. Shortly after its close a Mr.
Scott erected a wooden theatre near to where the railway arch
now crosses Portland Street. He also secured good talent,
but his exertions proved futile, and like his predecessors he
had to relinquish the attempt. Its successor — a wooden one
also — was opened by a Mr. Bostock at the top of Langlands
Brae. For a time large audiences were attracted, but gradu-
ally, in spite of stars and puffs, the interest waned and it
collapsed. Shortly it was followed by another of a higher
class, which was conducted by Mr. Edmund Glover. It was
a neat wooden erection, and occupied nearly the same spot as
the last-mentioned. Success attended it for some consider-
able time, but gradually the audience thinned, and after
struggling for two or three winters it was taken down. The
next effort worthy of notice was made by the late John
Simpson and Mr. Bostock in the theatre under the railway
arch in Back Street, but the expense of the erection was so
great that Mr. Bostock grew terrified, disappeared, and left
Simpson to wrestle with the concern as best he might. For
several years Simpson struggled with adverse circumstances,
tried many attractions, not the least of which was his
engagements of Sir William Don, Mr. Parry, Mr. Mortimer
Murdoch, G. V. Brookes, Mr. Christdale, and others, but all
would not do ; the Puritan spirit was too strong in Kilrnar-
nock, support was denied, and as a last effort, after a chequered
career, he dropped the price to " the low charge of one penny,"
but even at that figure it would not do, and John gave up in
despair, having reached a state beyond bankruptcy. Since then
— between six and seven years ago — various theatrical companies
have visited the town, but now that it is possessed of a theatre
more worthy of support, it remains to be seen whether the Puri-
tan spirit of " Auld Killie" be sufficiently relaxed to give it the

38 RAMBLES THROUGH KILMARNOCK.

encouragement it deserves. Old John Simpson, the leading
spirit in the theatre under the railway arch, was a well known
character, and is still spoken of with respect. He was a
shoemaker to trade, but discarded the last to tread the boards,
" the profession" being more congenial to his nature. He
was a fair actor, and as such was a favourite with the people
of Kilmarnock, and nothing gave the juveniles more pleasure
than to see him killed in a piece, he having a way of his own
of dying that gave universal satisfaction. Once when playing
"Burke and Hare," and when simulating death on the
gallows, he would have done so in earnest had it not been
noticed that the prop under his feet had given way, and that
he was black in the face. He was of a congenial nature, and
whether in prosperity or adversity had always a kind word
for everybody. When the playgoing inhabitants denied him
their support he travelled the country with a booth, and in
it "played many parts;" but having met with an accident
whereby he lost the sight of an eye, and age and infirmity
beginning to tell on him, he came to Kilmarnock, and by the
kindness of a few friends was admitted into the Infirmary,
where after a short illness the curtain of death fell and closed
the last scene of his eventful life on 2 1st December, 1873.

Passing along John Finnie Street, the next building worthy
of notice is that destined for the office of Archibald Finnie &
Son, coalmasters. It is in the ornate Corinthian style of
architecture, and for beauty of design and sculptured embel-
lishment there is nothing, with the exception of the Corn
Exchange, to equal it in town. It stands opposite the
opening in front of the Union Bank, and attracts universal
attention. The Union Bank, although situated in Bank
Street, faces John Finnie Street. It is of recent erection,
large, and very ornamental, and forms a fine background to
the short street that connects both thoroughfares.

Arriving at the termination ot John Finnie Street I pause
and look round me. In front is Dundonald Eoad ; to the
right, Portland Eoad ; and to the left Saint Marnock Street.
The two last-named are parallel and form a splendid line of
street that merges into Irvine Eoad. At the corner of Dun-
donald and Portland Eoads is Trinity Episcopal Church and
Parsonage. The present minister is the Eev. A. G. Creighton.
The church was enlarged last year, and a square tower yet

RAMBLES THROUGH KILMA.RNOCK. 39

in an unfinished state was then added. Its style of archi-
tecture is early English, and altogether it is a very neat place
of worship. It was erected in 1857. Opposite it in Portland
Eoad stands what is termed Portland Eoad U.P. Church (the
Eev. George F. James's). It is an elegant structure, and is
what may be termed Byzantine in style. It was erected in
1859 by the congregation of Gallows Knowe Church, who
desired to have their place of worship more central. Besides
these churches, Portland Eoad contains very many handsome
villas and substantial houses of the first order. At its ex-
tremity is Springhill, the beautiful residence of Mr. Archibald
Finnie. It stands on a slight eminence and presents an im-
posing appearance, with its green lawns and finely planted
grounds. Behind Springhill, salubriously situated near Irvine
Eoad, stands Grange Terrace. It also overlooks the town
and consists of a row of substantial houses. Kilmarnock is
stretching to the east and the west, and before many years
pass away it will assume a degree of compactness that will
remove the reproach so long cast upon it of being straggling
and irregular.

But to return. At the corner of John Finnie and Saint
Marnock Streets stand the Court House and Prison. The
former is a massive building in the Grecian order of archi-
tecture. It was erected in 1852, and consists of a centre and
two wings. The facade fronts Saint Marnock Street and is very
imposing. By its side there is a neat flower plot inside an
iron railing, in which stands a piece of ordnance in all the
indolence of peace. In the hall of the Court House Sheriff
Courts are held, and the offices of the Procurator Fiscal and
Sheriff Clerk are situated within the building. The prison is
behind, and connected with the Court House, and to it is
attached the dwelling-house of Mr. Geddes, the governor, and
an exercise court for the prisoners. Crime is not heavy in
the burgh, but nevertheless this institution never lacks in-
mates, and never shall so long as the sale of intoxicating
liquors is sanctioned by the Government. On the opposite
side cf Saint Marnock Street, and a little farther down than the
Court House, stands Saint Marnock's Church (the Eev. John
Thomson's). It was erected in 1836, and like the other
churches in its neighbourhood is a very handsome building.
From its front rises a massive square wing Gothically orna-

40 RAMBLES THROUGH KILMARNOCK.

mented, symmetrical, and chaste in design. It became a
Parish Church in 1862, and is well attended.

Opposite Saint Marnock's Church, and next to the Court
House, stands an old-fashioned manor house, with a small
garden before it. Its doors, windows, and general construc-
tion speak of former times. It is called Kilmarnock House.
After the destruction of Dean Castle by fire in 1735, it was
the residence of William, fourth Earl of Kilmarnock. It is
supposed to have been built towards the close of the
seventeenth century. Its policies were extensive and
well wooded, and a portion of a shady avenue still
remains a sad memento of the fallen house of Boyd.
The unfortunate Earl — as the fourth Earl of Kilmarnock is
generally called — left the threshold of this mansion in 1745
to join the standard of Prince Charlie, never more to enter
its baronial shade. What induced him to allow himself to
be drawn into the vortex of a hopeless civil war I know not,
nor does any writer I have consulted throw any light
upon the subject, although several have formed conjectures.
The Kilmarnock people were opposed to the house of Stuart,
and the Earl was never suspected of entertaining revolutionary
principles, for he had been always friendly to the house of
Hanover, and took a deep interest in the affairs and prosperity
of the town, and up to the very hour of his departure retained
his seat in the Council. The quiet, unostentatious life that
he led in Kilmarnock formed a strange prelude to his brief
career of adventure while following Prince Charlie and to his
tragic and melancholy end. Space forbids me going at any
great length into the Earl's history after he left Kilmarnock,
but perhaps a brief account of what he passed through may
not be uninteresting to the reader. Upon his arrival at the
Prince's quarters he met with a cordial reception from the
young adventurer, and was at once " made Colonel of the
Guards and promoted to the degree of a General." At the
battle of Falkirk, which was fought on the 17th of January,
1746, he distinguished himself, and by his bravery materially
assisted the arms of the Prince in winning that victory, and
in every other engagement evinced great courage. But the
end came — the melancholy end. It was on the 16th April ;
the scene Culloden Moor, a few miles eastward of Inverness.
There the Duke of Cumberland, accompanied by twelve

RAMBLES THROUGH KILMARNOCK. 41

thousand men, encountered the Prince's army, which
amounted to half that number, and was principally composed
of starving, dispirited Highlanders. The battle commenced ;
the Prince's little army fought bravely ; but, to quote from
Chamfyers's History of the Rebellion, "Notwithstanding that
the three files of the front line of the English poured forth
their incessant fire of musketry — notwithstanding that the
cannon, now loaded with grape-shot, swept the field as with
a hailstorm — notwithstanding the flank fire of Wolfe's
regiment — onward, onward went the headlong Highlanders,
flinging themselves into, rather than rushing upon, the lines
of the enemy, which, indeed, they did not see for smoke till
involved among the weapons. . . . Almost every man in
their front rank, chief and gentleman, fell before the deadly
weapons which they had braved ; and, although the enemy
gave way, it was not till every bayonet was bent and bloody
with the strife." At the close of the battle, when the army
of the Prince had been defeated and the remnant were seeking
safety in flight, the account states that " the Earl of Ealrnar-
nock, being half -blinded with smoke and snow, mistook a
party of Dragoons for the Pretender's horse, and was accord-
ingly taken. He was soon after led along the lines of the
British Infantry, in which his son, then a young man, held
the commission of ensign. The Earl had lost his hat in the
strife, and his long hair was flying in disorder around his
head and over his face. The soldiers stood mute in their
lines, beholding the unfortunate nobleman. Among the rest
stood Lord Ivilrnarnock, compelled by his situation to witness,
without the power of alleviating, the humiliation of his father.
When the Earl came past the place where his son stood, the
youth, unable to bear any longer that his father's head should
be exposed to the storm, stepped out of the ranks, without
regard to discipline, and taking off his hat, placed it over his
father's disordered and wind-beaten locks. He then returned
to his place, without having uttered a word, while scarcely an
eye that saw his filial affection but confessed its merits by a
tear." With the Earl the scene had now changed — the
Stuarts' star had set- — the Prince was now a fugitive and he a
prisoner. He was consigned to the tower of London, in due
time was tried and convicted of high treason, and sentenced
to be beheaded. He met his doom with resignation, and

42 RAMBLES THROUGH KILMARNOCK.

suffered on Tower Hill, London, on the 18th of August, 1746.
Kilmarnock House is now converted into an Industrial
Ragged School, and in it many poor children who have lost
their parents, and others who would otherwise become waifs
of society, find a home.

No portion of Kilmarnock has undergone a greater trans-
formation of late years than that in the vicinity of Kilmarnock
House. Forty years ago the old building was surrounded by
venerable trees, and stood in all its baronial dignity as if
waiting for those who would nevermore return. Then the
Kilmarnock 'Water flowed along its unconfiued channel in
greater pelucidity, and where Saint Marnock Street now crosses
it, a rickety old wooden bridge connected both its banks.
The place was strictly rural, trees waved their verdant boughs,
and birds sported among the foliage in all the consciousness
of security. But a change has taken place. The town has grown
into proportions that has swallowed up the Baron's pleasure
grounds. The axe has been laid to the trees, and where Nature's
carpet was spread, handsome streets have been formed and
buildings reared ; and where once the melody of birds was
heard comes the rattling sound of wheels, and the busy hum
of domestic life.

I now enter Dundpnald Eoad ; but before proceeding
farther, I may state that the portion of the highway
from Saint Marnock Street to Pointhouse Toll is of recent con-
struction. The old road to the spot indicated was tortuously
crooked, but by doing away with it and continuing the high-
way in a straight line through what was known as Ward's
Park*, the present handsome thoroughfare was the result.
A long range of graceful residences and beautiful villas are
now erected on it, and altogether it has a handsome appear-
ance.

Passing on my way, I pause before Winton Place Evan-
gelical Union Church (the Rev. William Bathgate's). It is
a neat building in the early English Gothic style, and
has a fine appearance from the road. It was erected in I860
by the members of Clerk's Lane Church, the majority of
whom removed to it, and left those who adhered to the old

* It was in Ward's Park where Fastern's E'en Races were held. These races
were "discontinued by the Magistrates and Council about 1831, after having
been observed annually for five centuries.''

RAMBLES THROUGH KILMAKNOCK. 43

building to form a new congregation. From Winton Place to
the entrance of the Puhlic Park every building is so chastely
neat in design that the eye rests with, delight upon the whole ;
and to avoid giving prominence to any one in particular, I
add no more to what has been already stated regarding them.
Entering what is at present dignified with the name of a
Public Park, I find it thronged with youths engaged in sports
and pastimes. Here, a little band with bats and wickets are
busy at cricket ; there, another deeply engrossed in the game
of rounders, and not a few are engaged in the more laborious
game of football ; while groups, not otherwise employed,

" Scour awa' in lang excursion,
And worrie ither in diversion."

Stretching along the top of a bank, and overlooking the park,
is a belt of tall trees. They consist of two rows, and seem at
some period to have lined the sides of a drive. A solemnity
pervades the spot ; and no wonder, for there is a sorrowful
tale connected with it. The place is called " The Lady's Walk."
It at one time extended down to Kilmarnock House, and in
it the Lady of the unfortunate Earl of Kilmarnock, who is
said to have died of a broken heart, wandered and mourned
the sad fate of her lord. A little poem on " The Lady's
Walk," by one Ashton Carle, an actor, that appeared in the
Kilmarnock Standard some time ago, is so good, and describes
the place and incident so faithfully, that I may be pardoned
for presenting it to my readers.

" A wild, weird look has the ' Lady's Walk,'

And the trees are stripped and old;
They solemn bend in mute-like talk,
In the twilight grey and cold.

Each gaunt and rugged sinewy root

Starts up along the way —
Memento sad of the lady's foot

That erst did mournful stray.

Ghost-like the boughs loom in the sky,

And, skeleton-like, they meet ;
The very pathway, white and dry,

Curves like a winding-sheet.

The rustling leaves that autumn weaves

In wither'd hillocks lie,
And the chilly wind soughs just behind

Like the lady's tearful sigh.

44 RAMBLES THROUGH KILMARNOCK.

Heavily rolls the evening mist,

And the rising night winds throb
By toot and shoot, just where they list,

Till taey sound like the lady's sob.

And the nightly shadows come and go,

And the gauat trees bow and wave,
Like weeping mourners, to and fro

Over a dear one's grave.

Then this is the far-famed "Lady's Walk,"

And walketh she there to-night ?
Holdeth her spirit silent talk

With that moon so sickly white ?

I hear no sound but the rushing bound

Of the swelled and foaming river,
That seems to say : I cannot stay,

But must on for ever and ever."

Near to the close of the Lady's Walk I come to a piece
of ground between it and Dundonald Road, enclosed
within a paling, and planted with shrubs and young trees.
In this spot a number of people lie buried who fell victims
to cholera during the prevalence of the epidemic in 1832.
At the termination of the walk a couple of cannon are
stationed, partly for ornament and partly to teach the
Artillery Volunteers how to use such weapons. From their
site a fine view of the town, of the village of Eiccarton, and
a wide expanse of country, is obtainable. I now cross tbe
Public Park and arrive in the footroad that skirts the Kil-
maruock Water. The stream here is both shallow and filthy
in appearance, and abounding in sewage. Turning in the
direction of the town, I pass the Cattle Market, enter Water-
side Street — a row of old-fashioned houses — and after a short
walk arrive in Saint Marnock Street. Turning to the
right, I cross the bridge and enter Sandbed Street, which
runs along the side of the river from Saint Marnock Street
to Cheapside Street. It is narrow and not over-cleanly, and
its appearance is anything but heightened by the sewer-like
stream that flows below its level. Many of the houses that
line it are tall, dingy, tenant-crowded blocks, but as its
extremity is neared a few buildings still stand whose old
walls and thatch-covered roofs speak of other days. Sandbed
Street is a very old thoroughfare. It at one time formed
part of the main road to Ayr, and along it the stage-coaches

RAMBLES THROUGH KILMARNOCK. 45

and other vehicles used to rattle as they passed through the
town ; but, like every other place in its vicinity, it is much
changed, so much so that scarce a vestige of its early appear-
ance is now left. Arriving at the Old Bridge, at the top of
Sandbed, I pause to view the unsavoury scene, and mentally
compare the past with the present. At the north-east side
of this bridge the "Thieves' Hole" was situate. It was, as
already stated, attached to the Tolbooth, and is associated
with the name of "bloody Dalziel." When stationed in
Kilmarnock, in 1667, it is recorded that he and his soldiery
perpetrated many atrocities amongst the inhabitants, and
that he consigned numbers of them to the " Thieves' Hole,"
" where they could not move themselves night or day, but
were obliged constantly to stand upright." An old building,
once an inn, that stood close to the bridge and near to where
Victoria Place now stands, tradition affirmed to have been
that in which the tyrant resided, and from which he issued
his orders.

Crossing the bridge, I enter Cheapside, turn to the right,
and once more arrive in the Cross. After having traversed
the principal streets and many of the byeways of " Killie"
in the course of my three excursions, what is to be learned
from them 1 Simply this, that Kilmarnock of to-day is
almost entirely a modern town. Its principal streets, as we
have seen, have been opened up and built on, and all that
constitutes its superiority over what it was in former times
has been accomplished within the recollection of people still
living. Its remarkable extension of late years may be attri-
buted to various causes, not the least of which has been the
utilisation of the resources of a district teeming with mineral
and agricultural wealth, and of its being blessed with a manu-
facturing and commercially enterprising people. But, reader,
I will now ask you to accompany me in

' ' My wanderings by hill and dale
Eound Killie's avdd dear sheltered vale, "

and I will do what I can to entertain you by the way.

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

CHAPTER I.

The Bridges connecting Kilmarnock with Riccarton, and the objects of
interest in their vicinity — Caprington Castle — Riccarton Castle, its
site and traditions — Traditions of Sir William Wallace — Riccarton —
The Parish Church — Sandy M 'Crone — The Churchyard — Old Stones —
The East Shaw Street Miser— The Old Church— Village Worthies —
The Village past and present — The Manse.

ON a bright morning in the leafy month of June I stood
in the Cross of Kilmarnock, staff in hand, for I had cast
business and care aside for the day, and formed the resolution
to ramble along some of the rustic highways and byeways,
and explore the antiquities and sylvan scenes that intersperse
the cultivated landscapes round the town. Glancing at the
numerous thoroughfares which branch off this local centre, I
passed down King Street, and being light of heart and limb,
was well through Glencairn Street before I was aware
that I was leaving the busy town behind, and that the
beauteous scenery by which it is surrounded was bursting into
view. Looking in front I beheld a scene at once picturesque
and lovely — a scene that never fails to delight me when
I look upon it. In the foreground Riccarton Tollhouse
and old Bridge, behind a portion of the village, and away in
the background the steep hills of Craigie bathed in sunlight.
Gaining the Tollhouse I found it situated between two
handsome bridges which span the river Irvine. One
of these has an ancient look, but the other is a comparatively
modern structure. The river here divides the parishes of
Kilmarnock and Riccarton, and forms the boundary line
between the districts of Kyle and Cunninghame. The old
IMdge bears the date of its erection (1726), and it is not a
little curious — if Aiton is to be relied on — that the first carts

48 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

used in Ayrshire were employed to convey stones for its con-
struction. The road o.ver the old Bridge leads through the
village of Riccarton. At one time it was the highway between
Kilmarnock and Ayr, but the portion on which the village
stands being steep, crooked, and narrow, the new Bridge was
built and a straight line of road formed some thirty years ago.
From the parapet of the new Bridge an extensive view is
obtainable. In the distance are seen the cloud-capped hills
of Arran and the heights of Dundonald, but as I have no
desire of tiring the reader with lengthy descriptions of scenery
I will merely refer to the places of interest that come within
the range of vision to the west of the village. About a quarter
of a mile below the bridges, the river Marnock — or, as it is
commonly called, the Kilmarnock Water — mingles its leaden
flood with that of its more pellucid and sprightly sister the
Irvine, which winds along until it is concealed from view by
the tall trees that embower the Castle of Caprington, the
turrets of which peer from, its sylvan retreat in impressive
magnificence. This Castle is of great antiquity. It is built
upon a rock that juts out near the bed of the river, and
having been greatly improved and modernised of late years, it
may be considered one of the finest buildings in the district.
It originally belonged to a branch of the Wallace family, and
according to the " Statistical Account" is mentioned in a
charter bearing the date 1385, under the name " Castellum
turris fortalicium de Caprington." Adam Cuninghame, the
first of the Caprington family, was a grandchild of Sir
William Cuninghame of Kilmaurs. He inherited Caprington
by marriage with a daughter of Sir Duncan Wallace of Sun-
drum during the reign of James II. The estate remained in
the possession of his descendants until 1829, when the death
of Sir William Cunninghame, bart., occurred. That noble-
man dying without issue, the Baronetcy devolved upon Sir
Robert Keith Dick, of Prestonfield, but Caprington is at
this date (1875) in the possession of William Cathcart Smith
Cunninghame, Esq. The estate is rich in mineral, coal of the
finest quality being found in great abundance, and the miners
are noted for their respectability and sobriety. The houses
built on the estate by the proprietor for their accommodation
are commodious and neat, and seem palaces when compared to
the dwellings too often provided by coalmasters for their men.

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. 49

To the left, on the top of some rising ground, stands the
farm-house of Yardside. It is built on the site of Riccarton
Castle, but there is nothing of interest about it save some
stately trees which are said to have adorned the garden of
the ancient edifice. History is silent regarding this
stronghold, and even Pont has failed to notice it in
his topography; yet it is nevertheless certain that it was the
abode of the Wallaces, barons of Eiccarton, who were the
early possessors of the district, and it is referred to as
such in several ancient documents. Blind Harry speaks of
it, and according to him it was the residence of Sir Ronald
Crawford, and a favourite resort of his nephew, Sir William
Wallace, the Scottish hero. It was to Riccarton Castle
Wallace fled when he slew the Cumberland chief, Selby,
governor of Dundee, and to it he also directed his steps upon
revenging the treacherous murder of his uncle and other
barons by firing the barns of Ayr.

In the hollow, a little below the water meetings, stands
the farm-house of Maxholm. Near to it a thorn tree called
the " Bickering Bush " stood, it was said, to mark the spot
where Wallace was set upon by English soldiers while fishing.
A troop happening to ride past, five of the party left the
corps and demanded the fish he had taken. Refusing to
comply with their request, an altercation ensued, and one
dismounted to forcibly possess himself of them. Being
unarmed at the tune, Wallace struck him down with his
fishing-rod, wrenched his sword from, him, and with a back
stroke cut off the fellow's head. Seeing the fate of their
comrade, the others quickly dismounted to revenge his death,
but two of the number met a similar fate. Blind Harry,
who graphically records this incident, tells the remaining
part of the story as follows : —

" Three slew he there, two fled with all their might
Unto their horse in a confounded fright;
Left all their fish, no longer durst remain,
And three fat English bucks upon the plain;
Thus in great hurry, having got their cuffs,
They scampered off in haste to save their buffs."

A local tradition says that when Wallace found himself
master of the field he made with all possible speed to the
castle and related the adventure to his uncle's housekeeper.

50 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

The good lady, fearing that the English would not allow
such an ignominious defeat to go unavenged, persuaded him
to don a gown and " mutch," and seat himself at a spinning-
wheel. The disguise was perfect, but it was not effected a
moment too soon, for the clattering of horses' hoofs were
heard, and Wallace had scarce time to lay hold of the distaff
and commence spinning when a number of soldiers dashed
into the 'courtyard and roughly enquired if the author of
what they termed "an outrage" was within. The old house-
keeper met them, professed great amazement, and invited
them to search the place. This they did, but failed to dis-
cover in the supposed old woman at the wheel the hero of
the unequal fight.

Crossing the old bridge, I passed up the street of the
village and soon arrived at the Parish Church. It is a plain
building of no particular style of architecture, and is adorned
with a handsome spire, which is a conspicuous object on the
landscape, being discernible nearly the whole country round.
The church bears the date of 1823, is built on the top of a
justice-mound, and from its situation has an elegant appear-
ance. A road leading to Hurlford separates the church from
the churchyard, and while passing it I observed a man seated
on a milestone at a place vulgarly called " the lazy corner."
Remarking to him that the spire of the church was exceeding
high, he civilly replied that it was, but added he with a grin,
" High an' a' as it is, a blin' man ance gaed to the tap o't."-
"A blind man go to the top of a steeple !" I said with
astonishment. — " Yes, an' what's mair, he stuck a tattie on
the cock's neb — ye ken there used to be a cock on't." — " But
how did he get up ? who and what was he f I curiously
enquired. — " Weel ye see there was a scaffoldin' roun' it at
the time, for it wasna quite finished," continued my friend,
with an air of a man communicating something of importance.
— " But the blind man ?" said I.—" Oh, ay, they ca'd him
Sandy M'Crone, an' although he had been blin' frae his boy-
hood he was smarter than mony wi' their e'esicht, for there
wasna a farm-house for miles roun' but Sandy could gang to
his lane ; an' what's mair, he ance fand a lark's nest, an'
brocht a seein' man to see it." — " But what did he do for a
living V — " Oh, Sandy was a fiddler, sir ; a grand fiddler was
Sandy M'Crone, an' a' body ken'd an' liked him, for his

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. 51

cheery, droll ways gat him mony frien's. He belanged to
Biccarton," he continued, after a pause ; " an', as I said
before, Sandy was a grand fiddler — he could maist gar his
fiddle speak. Hech, ay (here he drew a long breath as if
thinking of past pleasures) mony a waddin', an' rockin', an'
merrymakin' Sandy played at ; but his elbow's still noo, an'
nae mair will his music put life an' mettle i' the heels o' the
dancers," he said in a sorrowful tone. After this my loqua-
cious friend began to relate a fishing exploit that Sandy
figured in on the banks of the Cessnock, but it smacked so
much of the improbable that I bade him a hasty good morning
and pushed on my way.

Passing the house of the venerable Alexander Black, I had
a desire to call upon him, but the hour being early I deferred
my visit until another time. Mr. Black is hale and hearty,
and although bordering on ninety can crack a joke and enjoy
one. He is the oldest man in Riccarton, and I believe the
oldest freemason in Ayrshire. He is possessed of an excellent
memory, and graphically and with great vivacity relates the
sayings, doings, and actions of a past generation.

Finding the churchyard gate ajar I entered, strayed
amongst the grassy hillocks, and began to read the brief
records on the tombstones — a rather solemn occupation, but
one that does me good, for it reminds me that I am dust and
shall to dust return. The churchyard is small ; it stands
some ten feet above the level of the road, and contains some
curious and elaborately carved headstones which have the
appearance of considerable antiquity, but the inscriptions are
for the most part obliterated by the hand of time, and some
are falling to pieces, although William Walker, the sexton,
who is a kind of antiquary, is doing his best to unearth and
preserve them. A favourite representation on several is a
ploughing scene, which in every case is rudely executed. In
most instances the plough is drawn by oxen, and held by a
figure resembling that of a man, while another stands in front
with a goad in its hand as if urging the oxen forward.
Other stones are decked with heraldic designs, and a few
with Garden of Eden scenes, while others have emblematical
representations of the trades that the sleepers followed when
in life. For instance, one has the shuttle, reed, and temples
sculptured on it ; another millstones, wheels, and other

52 RAMBLES BOUND KILMARNOCK.

gearing ; while one small but curious stone has the bodkin,
shears, and iron. The stone containing the oldest legible
date bears that of 1641. Near the centre of the churchyard
is the burying-place of the Cuninghames of Caprington, and
behind it is that of the Campbells of Treesbank. Xear to
these there is a tablet to the memory of Sir James Shaw's
father. The stone states that he died in 1796, aged sixty-
seven years. Close to that, again, a plain slab announces
that it is " Erected in memory of Mary Keohie, who was
killed in the Low Church, Kilmamock, 1801, aged 13 years."
There are many other stones both ancient and modern that I
might notice, especially that to the memory of the well-known
wit, William Millar, who told the farmer's wife when she
set down whey to his porridge, that she needna hamper her
pigs for him, he could take milk brawly.

Among the forgotten dead, and in " a dry and comfortable
corner" near to the gate, lies an eccentric individual whose
death caused considerable stir in Kilmarnock, and more
especially in the Holm quarter, where it occurred on the
17th July, 1817. He was named William Stevenson, was a
professional beggar of miserly habits, and occupied a back
house in East Shaw Street that stood near to where Mr.
William Frazer's school now stands. He belonged to Dunlop,
was a mason to trade, but begged his bread and lived upon
charity during the greater part of his life. Robert Chambers
mentions him in his " Book of Days," and from that work I
cull the following particulars : —

" About the year 1787 he and his wife separated, making
the strange agreement that whichever of them was the first
to propose reunion should forfeit one hundred pounds to the
other. It is supposed that they never met afterwards. In
1815, when about eighty-five years old, Stevenson was seized
with an incurable disease, and was confined to his bed. A
few days before his death, feeling his end to be near, he sent
for a baker, and ordered twelve dozen burial cakes, a large
quantity of sugar biscuits, and a good supply of wine and
spirits. He next sent for a joiner, and instructed him to
make a good, sound, dry, roomy coffin ; after which he sent
for the Riccarton gravedigger, and requested him to select a
favourable spot in a dry and comfortable corner of the village
churchyard, and there dig for him a roomy grave, assuring

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. 3

him that lie would be paid for his trouble. This done he
ordered an old woman who attended him to go to a certain
nook and there bring out nine pounds to pay all these pre-
liminary expenses, telling her not to grieve for him for he
had remembered her in his will. Shortly after this he died.
A neighbour came in to search for his wealth, which had
been shrouded in much mystery. In one bag was found
large silver pieces such as dollars and half-dollars, crowns
and half-crowns, and in a heap of musty rags a collection of
guineas and seven-shilling pieces ; while in a box were found
bonds of various amounts, including one for three hundred
pounds, giving altogether a sum of about nine hundred
pounds. A will was also found bequeathing twenty pounds
to the old woman who attended him, and most of the
remainder to distant relations, setting aside sufficient to give
a feast to all the beggars in Ayrshire who chose to come and
see his body lie in state. The influx was immense, and after
the funeral, which was attended by a motley group of gaber-
lunzies, all retired to a barn that had been fitted up for the
occasion, and there indulged in revelries but little in accord-
ance with the solemn season of death."

In the centre of the churchyard stood the old church of
Eiccarton, a small structure of considerable antiquity which
will be remembered by many of the old inhabitants of the
village and of Kilmarnock, for many of them have worshipped
in it, and in their turn watched the little golgotha by night
to scare the resurrectionist and prevent the desecration of
the dead. There is now not a vestige of the old building
left. The stones which formed it were used to erect a one-
storeyed house that stands near the old bridge. It was at
one time a Roman Catholic place of worship, and anciently
belonged to the convent of Dalmulin, but was transferred to
the monks of Paisley, and remained in their hands until the
Eeformation. "After the Reformation," says Chalmers, " the
parish of Ricardtoun was united to that of Craigie, and both
were placed under the charge of one minister. But they
were again disunited in 1648, and have since remained
distinct parishes."

Leaving the churchyard, I regained the village street and
passed on my way. The portion of the village surrounding
the churchyard is very old. At the gate the houses have a

54 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

quaint, old-fashioned appearance. Here is situated the
principal inn, a modern building, and next to it a low-
roofed, dingy, thatched cottage, with a signboard over its
door displaying a crown. The house was called the Free-
masons' Arms, and was kept in "the good old times" by
John Morton, a village worthy who was noted for wit and
wisdom, and was looked to by the villagers as an authority
in matters of law and politics. For a series of years he held
the honourable position of village postmaster, and although
long since dead he is still spoken of with respect. At the
back of this erection is a two-storeyed one, venerable in
appearance and old-fashioned in construction. An outside
stair surmounted by a porch leads to the second fiat, which
at one time was the hall of the freemasons. Here the
" brethren of the mystic tie" held their meetings, and often
have the old walls rung with the sounds of merriment and
applause on festive occasions.

Amongst village notables of the old school, old David
Templeton the bellman, and Robert Pitt the shoemaker, are
worthy of notice. The first was peculiar for his dry caustic
wit and droll sayings, and although long since gathered to
his fathers the tall, gaunt form of the old man will be
familiar to many readers. The last-named lasted his last
shoe some four years ago, and now sleeps the dreamless sleep
of death in the village churchyard. He was a poet as well
as a wit, and during the last thirty years of his life he
was a contributor to the poet's corner of various Ayrshire
newspapers.

Kiccarton has a population of 1889. It was created a
burgh of barony in 1638, but its civic power was never exer-
cised. Although of great antiquity it was long an insigni-
ficant hamlet, and it is only within the last seventy years
that it has become of any size or importance. It is now
included in the parliamentary burgh of Kilmarnock, and
being a suburb of that thriving town it will doubtless
increase with its prosperity. About fifty years ago weaving
was extensively carried on in it, so much so, indeed, that the
sound of the shuttle could be heard issuing from almost
every door, but the appliance of machinery in that branch of
industry has in a measure silenced it. The village is
principally inhabited by miners, and I think the character

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

55

given them by a late minister of the parish is very applicable.
He says — " I am happy to bear testimony to the general good
conduct of a very large class of the inhabitants — I mean the
colliers. There- are very many of them in comfortable
circumstances, inhabiting their own houses, bringing up
t heir families respectably, and seemingly surrounded with
many comforts, many of them being intelligent and pious
men. Indeed, I may almost say with confidence what can
seldom be said of the same class of workmen, that they are
amongst the most orderly, industrious, and intelligent of our
parishioners."

Leaving the old portion of the village behind, I passed
along the footpath that skirts the garden wall of the manse
and turned into Craigie Boad. The manse is at present
occupied by the Rev. William Jeffrey, the parish minister.
It is a plain, old-fashioned structure, and has nothing of
interest connected with it save it be the mantelpiece in the
kitchen, which "The Statistical Account" states is the
identical one that graced the fireplace of the dining-room
of Eiccarton Castle.

CHAPTER II.

Craigte Road — Knowehead and its surroundings — The Buchanan Bequest
— Treesbank Manor House — Scargie — John Burtt — Knockmarloch —
Craigie Hill— Craigie Church— The Village— The Witch Stane —
Craigie Castle — A Strange Story — A Curious Stone.

Upon entering Craigie Eoad, I passed some neat
cottages, and a little farther on others of a humbler
order, and after a brisk uphill walk gained Knowehead, an
eminence over which the road passes and from which an
extensive view of the surrounding country can be obtained.
Pausing, my eye swam over the scene. Behind was the
quaint village, with the smoke curling from the cottage
chimneys ; beyond it, in the hollow, old Kilmaruock, with'
its stalks and spires ; in front the estate of Treesbank, with
its manor-house peering out from amongst the trees, and the
road winding over hill and dale until lost to view on a rugged
range of hills over which it passes. To the right Ayr road
and the estate of Caprington were the most prominent objects
on the landscape ; to the left, on a hilly piece of ground,
stands the farm-steading of Witch Knowe. Doubtless its
site was supposed to be a resort of the uncanny fraternity in
times past, or perhaps some withered beldame was burned on
it. The scene withal was very pleasing, and the song of the
lark and the multifarious sounds that greeted the ear made
it doubly delightful.

Beyond Witch Knowe is the estate of Bellfield. The
mansion-house is concealed by a belting of trees which
surround the beautiful garden and pleasure grounds.
Bellfield House was the residence of Misses Margaret,
Jane, and Elizabeth Buchanan, daughters of the late George
.Buchanan of Woodlands, Glasgow, who died in the order
of seniority, the youngest on the 23rd April, 1875. During
their lifetime they jointly executed a will, and although
subject to the alteration of the last survivor it substantially
remained as agreed upon, and confers the following munificent
bequests: — £10,000 to the Merchants' House of Glasgow, the

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. 57

revenue to be applied in the same way as the funds of the
House are at present, on condition that the tomb of the
family in the Glasgow Necropolis be maintained in a proper
order and repair during all time coming. .£4,200 of reduced
three per cent, annuities to the Principal and Professors
appointed by the University Court of Glasgow, to found
bursaries for the maintenance of two matriculated students
who intend to become licentiates of the Established Church
of Scotland. £30,000 to be held by the trustees on the
estate and accumulated for ten years, the object being to
found an hospital for the maintenance of indigent and infirm
burgesses of Glasgow, of sixty years and upwards, preference
to be given to those of the name of Buchanan. The trustees
are to purchase two acres of ground within eight miles of
Glasgow, and erect an hospital thereon, and furnish and fit
it up ; and on the lapse of ten years they are to hand over
the hospital and all the funds which they have accumulated
to the Lord Provost and Magistrates of Glasgow, the minister
of the High Church, the minister of St. George's Church, and
the testamentary trustees as governors.0 It is stipulated that
no fewer than ten burgesses will at one time have the benefits
of the hospital. The lands and estate of Bellfield to be held
by the trustees till Martinmas, 1885, and the rents to be
accumulated during that period ; part of the mansion-house
to be fitted up as a library, and to be open to the public for
consultation only, at such times and under such regulations
as the trustees may think proper ; all the portraits, paintings,
books, and fittings suitable to be placed in this library; the
grounds and garden to be open to the public of Kilmarnock
and Riccarton at such times and under such regulations as
the trustees may think proper ; • £5 to be paid yearly to the
Eagged School of Kilmarnock out of the revenues of Bell-
field ; £3 yearly to the Fever Hospital and Infirmary of
Kilmarnock ; .£130 for a missionary to be appointed by the
minister of the parish of Riccarton, and £10 yearly for him
to buy flannel clothing for the poor. If the trustees find the
revenue to admit of it, they may fit up the remaining portion

* It is expected that the accumulation at the end of the ten years will be some-
thing like £12,000, which will cover the cost of the ground and of the erection and
fltting-up of the hospital, and that the £30,000 will remain for the purposes of
endowment.

58 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARXOCK.

of Bellfield House as an asylum for poor people of sixty years
and upwards who have resided in the parishes of Kilmarnock
and Biccarton for ten years consecutively, and for young
persons who may have been permanently injured by accident.
The trustees are to lease the minerals on the estate, aud at
the end of ten years the estate and accumulated funds are to
be conveyed to the Provost and Magistrates of Kilmarnock,
to the minister of Kilmarnock and the minister of the parish
of Biccarton for the time being, and to the testamentary
trustees, for the carrying on of the purposes above-mentioned.
The balance of the revenue, after providing for these purposes,
is to be divided equally between the parishes of Kilmarnock
and Biccarton, to be distributed by the minister to the
deserving poor not on the poor's roll, and there must always
be a certain sum set apart for this object. The whole residue
of the estate, after providing for these purposes, is to be paid,
one half to the Glasgow Royal Infirmary and the other half
to the Glasgow Asylum for the Blind.*

The nearness of Bellh'eld to Kilmamock and Eiccarton,
and the fact of its salubrious situation and finely-wooded
grounds, will render it a favourite resort to all Avho are
desirous of retiring from the noise and bustle of the town to
enjoy suburban quiet and hold communion with nature.

Eambling onward, the cool air of the morning fanned my
cheek, and as I contemplated the tiny wayside flower, the
stately tree, and the numerous natural beauties met with
at every step, my very soul was thrilled with ecstacy and
adoration — adoration to Him who has clothed the earth with
verdure and filled the groves with melody.

Passing through the tollbar of Shortlees, some ruined cot-
tages appeared on my left, and I soon arrived at a part of the
road where the trees on either side intertwine their branches
and form a leafy canopy overhead. Walking beneath the
rustling boughs I arrived at a small bridge which spans a burn*
as it jinks through a small plantation by the wayside. Across
the bridge there is a drive to Treesbank manor house. The
manor house — which has recently been enlarged and im-
proved— was built by Sir Hugh Campbell of Cessnock, and

•Condensed from "Abstract of settlement made by Misses Margaret, Jane,
and Elizabeth Buchanan of Bellfield, dated 8th July, 1801, as altered by codicil
made by Elizabeth Buchanan of Bellneld, llth May, 1671."

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

59

gifted along with the estate to his second son, James, upon
his (the son's) marriage with Jean, daughter of Sir William
Mure of Rowallan, in 1672, and from that union the present
proprietor is descended.

Leaving the purling burn, I followed the course of the road,
and after climbing a steep brae, passed Scargie, a couple of
thatched cottages of mean appearance standing a little off
the road. Scargie is associated with the name of John Burtt,
author of the sweet song beginning

" O'er the mist-shrouded cliffs of the grey mountains straying,"

And of other tyrics and lengthy pieces of verse. Although
born at Knockmarloch, Burtt spent the greater portion of his
boyhood at Scargie with his grandfather, who occupied the
place. In early manhood he was a schoolmaster in Kilmar-
nock, but emigrated to America in 1817, where he became a
clergyman, and was honoured with the chair of Ecclesiastical
History in the college of Cincinnati.

Travelling onward, I passed Sunnyside — a neat farm
house — and soon arrived at Knockmarloch. A small planta-
tion skirts the road, and within its shade the feathered throng
rendered the air vocal, for they chanted their joyous lays
right merrily, and the rich shrill notes of the blackbird echoed,
and the cadence died away like the last low strains of a lute.
I paused and listened, for the sounds and the scenery had an
exhilarating influence upon me — an influence that only those
who are confined to the desk or the bench six days out of the
seven can best comprehend. Turning down a bosky lane that
skirts the plantation, a walk of a hundred yards brought me
to a bubbling brook that purled amongst the brackens. Here,
a portion of a dry-stone dyke was broken down, and up to an
ivy-mantled ruin that was almost hid from view by the tall
firs of the plantation, a footroad Avorn by the feet of the
curious ran zigzag through the gowan-spangled grass. The
ruin — a solitary gable which the ivy green has clasped with
its tendrils and adorned with its shining leaves — is a remnant
of Knockmarloch manor house, but there is nothing inter-
esting associated with it. It was a thatch-covered mansion
of the olden time, and was last used as a family residence by
Major George Brown, a descendant of the Browns of Knock-
marloch, a family who had possessed the estate for a hundred

GO RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

and fifty years. About 1800 the estate came into the market
and was purchased by Robert Shedden, a relative of the
Knockmarloch family, who had spent the years of his boyhood
upon it. It is still in the possession of the Sheddens. They
have always been non-resident, and on this account the Manor
House was allowed to fall into decay. Ultimately, with the
exception of the shattered gable, the walls were pulled down
and the stones used to construct a couple of cottages that
stand a little off the main road by the side of the plantation.
About a stonethrow from the ruin there is a farm-steading,
the dwelling-house of which was once the coach-house of the
mansion. It bears the date 1775, and is at present occupied
by a grandchild of Major Brown's coachman, who, by the bye,
was the father of John Burtt, the poet.

Eetracing my steps to the road, a sharp walk brought me
to the base of Craigie Hill, an eminence that stands some 500
feet above the level of the sea, and although comparatively
low, yet the vieAV from its summit is extensive and beautiful.
A short distance from it are the limestone mines of Howcom-
mon, the excavations of which penetrate the bosom of the
hills, and form vast caverns through which a horse and cart
can be driven with facility. Being desirous to gain the top
of the rugged height, I entered a field gate, but here the still-
ness was broken by the sound of the hammer and pick, and
the snorting of a steam engine, for workmen were busily en-
gaged in a kind of quarry, cutting away the columnar trap of
which the hill is composed. Climbing the steep, I gained the
verdant summit somewhat out of breath with the exertion,
and sat down upon a boulder to gaze upon the landscape at
my feet. Stretched before me was a panoramic view of over one
hundred miles, consisting for the most part of an undulating
and highly cultivated track of country. Away in the misty
distance I beheld the Grampian Hills, "the lofty Benloniond,"
the Mull of Cantyre, the Paps of Jura, and the coast of
Ireland. More near, the Frith of Clyde, and the historic
Canick Shore, with the rock of Ailsa towering above the
waters like some rude monument, while along the coast lay
scattered numerous towns and villages. Landward, there is a
fine view of Loudoun Hill and other historically interesting
places. On the plain below the hill, the town of Kilinar-
nuck with its spires and smoky sky seemed spread out in a

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. 61

valley, while the estates of Caprington, Treesbank, Coodham,
and Knockmarloch filled up the picture between. Among
the many farmhouses dotting the landscape that of Mosshead
is worthy of remark — it being the birthplace of Sir James
Shaw, a gentleman who by energetic perseverance rose from
a comparatively humble position to that of Lord Mayor of
London.

After lingering on Craigie Hill I descended to the main road
and directed my steps towards the village, which nestles in sweet
retirement at the foot of the whinney ridge of which the
eminence above mentioned is the highest elevation. Passing
the manse, I turned down a narrow path to the left that runs
along the foot of the hills and terminates at a wall that sur-
rounds a burying ground. In its centre stands Craigie Parish
Church. It was erected in 1776, and is a small old-fashioned
like structure. The churchyard is overgrown with grass, and
although

" Some village Hampden that with dauntless breast
The little tyrants of his field withstood !
Some mute inglorious Milton here may rest ;
Some Cromwell guiltless of his country's blood,"

Yet there is no stone in it that is curious or containing
any remarkable inscription. The church of Craigie that
existed before the present one was very old. Paterson says
—"In 1177 Walter Hase of Cragyn" (the then patron),
" whose father had previously granted half a carucate of land,
gave to it another half carucate, gifting the whole — church and
lands — in pure alms, for the salvation of the souls of his
father and mother, to the monks of Paisley," and, according
to Chalmers, the property remained in their hands till the
Eeforrnation, after which the parish of Craigie was united to
that of Eiccarton, but was again disunited, as previously
stated.

The village of Craigie adjoins the church. It consists of
about eighteen neat cottages, a post office, a schoolhouse,
and an inn which flourishes under the name and sign of " The
Red Lion." A parish seminary has recently been erected
by the School Board, and forms a handsome addition to the
secluded little hamlet.

After partaking of refreshments in the village inn, and 'in-
dulging in a c.hat with the landlord, I retraced my steps to

62 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARXOCK.

the highway, and in doing so got into conversation with an
old lady who was very loquacious and well versed in the lore
of the district. Amongst other things, she informed me that
once on a time the church of Craigie had a narrow escape of
being destroyed by a witch who had taken umbrage at it. It
seems that the hag selected a large stone, and having placed
it in her apron, flew with it in the direction of the building
with the intention of dropping it upon its roof. Her design,
however, was frustrated by the breaking of her apron strings,
for, upon nearing the object of her spleen, they gave way, and
the stone fell with a crash that shook the earth. This acci-
dent seemingly so disheartened the carlin that she abandoned
the destructive idea and allowed her burden to lie where it
fell. The boulder lay in a field near the churchyard wall,
and was known as "The Witch Stane." It was long regarded
with superstitious awe by many ; but the farmer on whose
ground it lay being of a practical turn of mind, looked upon
it with an eye to utility, and had it blasted for building pur-
poses. Strange to relate, when broken up the debris filled
twenty-five carts — a circumstance that would lead one to sup-
pose that the witch must have been very muscular, and must
have worn a very large apron.

On my arrival at the highway I stopped a youth who came
whistling along and enquired my nearest way to Craigie
Castle. " That's the shoonest," said he thoughtfully. —
" Yes." — " "Weel, gang alang the road till ye come to the
yett next the hill, when there you'll see an auld road gaun.
through the parks ; follow it till ye coine to Smeetonrig
(Smithstouridge), turn the corner o' the house an' you'll see
the castle before you." After I had thanked him for the
information, he resumed his whistle and passed on his way
" happy as a king." Following his directions, " the yett
next the hill" was soon found, and having passed through it
I traversed a rudely Macadamised traffic-worn road which
stretched across the open fields, and after a pleasant walk by
the gowan-spangled lea — the pleasure of which was heightened
by the cry of the peesweep and the song of the lark — I
arrived in a farmyard, and most unexpectedly found myself
face to face with a watch-dog that did its best with voice and
gesture to frighten the life out of me. Expecting every
moment to be torn in pieces, and not knowing whether to

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

63

go forward or turn back, I was relieved from embarrassment
by a middle-aged woman appearing upon the scene. Having
stated my difficulty to her, the goodwife of Smithstonridge —
for such the lady proved to be — invited me forward and in
the kindest manner conducted me to the end of her house
and showed me the object of my search in the hollow. From
her I learned that the old Tarbolton Eoad, a portion of which
winds over a neighbouring hill and is now covered with
brambles and wild brier, passed by the farm, and that it was
the remains of it I came along. After a kindly goodbye to
Smithstonridge I struck through the fields in the direction
of Craigie Castle.

Viewing the ruin from a distance, it seems destitute of
that hoary appearance that is so inviting about shattered
places of strength, but upon nearing it I was agreeably sur-
prised to find it alike magnificent in situation and architecture,
and if not so noted and extensive as other bxiildings in a like
condition, it at least displays a degree of military science and
skill rarely to be met with. The ruin stands upon a knoll
between what appears to have been two marshes, and prob-
ably ditches were cut between them when the castle was in
its entirety. This being the case it would be isolated from
the mainland, and an insurmountable barrier raised to
besiegers at the period when gunpowder was unknown, and
when no missile, save from a height, could be thrown at any
great distance with effect. Two crumbling gables, portions
of walls, and shreds of battlements yet remain in tolerable
preservation, also several underground vaulted chambers are
entire, although partly filled with rubbish. In these the fox
has now its lair and the bat its abode, and wreck and decay
are the chief characteristics of the pile. Picking my steps
amongst solid blocks of masonry that lay as time had hurled
them from their position, I gained what appeared to have
been the principal apartment. The roof had fallen in, but
from the appearance of the walls it seems to have converged
at the top and been supported by fluted columns. Here lay
a shattered and dismantled cornice ; there, partly hid by
rubbish, pieces of sculpture that bore testimony to the skill
and taste of the designer, while stunted trees and shrubs
grew in places once trod by the mirthful and gay. To me it
is a spirit-depressing task to stray through an old ruin, for

64 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

each, crumbling stone is a monitor that speaks of death and
decay, and points to the futility of all human labour. At
this ruin I met with a natural curiosity in the shape of an
old tree. Against it lay two huge blocks of masonry that
have toppled off the rampart ; the trunk was bent and dis-
torted as if the plant had done its utmost to support or throw
off the encumbrance, and curious enough, in spite of it, the
growth had continued and imbedded portions of the burden
in its wood.

Craigie Castle was long the residence of the descendants
of the Wallaces of Eiccarton, but when or by whom it was
built cannot be ascertained with certainty. Previous to
that family one of the name of Lyndesay possessed the lands ;
but the race terminating in a daughter, who became the wife
of John Wallace about 1371, the property passed to his
family. In 1588 they removed to the Castle of Newton-
upon-Ayr, and left the Craigie mansion, which doubtless being
tenantless got out of repair, and in the course of time became
ruinous.

Amongst the many traditions connected with this Castle,
perhaps that of how it became ruinous will interest the
reader. It is told by Woodrow, and from that indefatigable
writer I quote the following strange story : — "The Lairds of

Craigie wer none the best affected to the gospell

When the ministers wer very strict in discipline, the Laird of
Craigie had either some tenants or servants who brought some
horses laden with carriages from some distant place, and
travelled openly upon the Sabbath day, throw many parishes.
The ministers of the places wrote to Mr. Inglish about such
ane open and scandalous breach of the Sabbath. He spoke to
the Laird of Craigie, and he huffed, and told it was done by
his orders, and he would support them in what they had done !
The minister caused cite the persons guilty to the session ;
but being supported by their master they would not compear.
When noe other way was left, Mr. Inglish took occasion to
bear testimony against it very plainly in a sermon. The
Loird was in the church, sitting in his seat before the pulpite,
and the minister fell upon it soe flatly that Craigie's malice
and spite was soe raised that he rose up, and took up his
whinger (a short sword) and threw it at him, when in the
pulpite ! Mr Inglish, when he perceived him draw it and

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. 65

going to cast it, gote clown in the pulpite and escaped it. The
whinger went over his head, and stuck in the backside of the
pulpite. After he had risen and composed himself a little,
he addressed himself to Craigie, and said — ' Sir, you have put
ane open affront upon God and his ordinances in what you
have aimed at me, and now I will tell you what God will doe
to you. Your great house, in this place, shall be reduced to
a heap of stones, and he that offers to repair it shall lose his
pains ; and your son now, whom you have such great hopes
of, shall die a fool!' And none of Mr. Inglish's words fell to
the ground. His son was then in England, in the army, and
was at that time a youth of great parts and expectation.
Whether by a fall or sickness, within a little time turned
fatuous and silly, and died soe. His great house of Craigie
fell to be some way out of order, and either he or his son
went to rep^ it, and when the workmen were at it a great
part of it fell down and had almost buried them all ; and its
now, indeed, a ruinouse heap!" About a portion of the
castle falling while undergoing repair is borne out by tradi-
tion, but the other part of the story is unsupported. Sir
Hugh Wallace, the laird referred to in the foregoing, was
knighted by Charles I. He was most liberal in his ideas,
fought with Montrose at the Battle of Philiphaugh, and was
amongst the vanquished insurgents. He died about 1650.

After straying among the ruins of Craigie Castle I crossed
the field in which they stand, and soon arrived in the farm-
yard of Craigie Mains. Here, built into a wall is a curious
old stone with some grotesque figures cut on it. It was found
amongst the ruins of the castle, and the design was considered
by the peasantry to represent wild men engaged in a game of
draughts. At first glance it is not unlike a thing of the kind,
but upon closer inspection the initiated in heraldic designs
finds it to be the arms of the "Wallaces of Eiccarton and the
Lyndesays of Craigie quartered — a circumstance suggesting
that a portion of Craigie Castle was built during the lifetime
of John Wallace, who, as already stated, married the Craigie
heiress.

CHAPTEE III.

From Craigie to Barnweill — Barnweill Kirk and Graveyard — The Wallace
Monument — Fail Castle — The Warlock Laird — Tarbolton — Willie's
Mill— Peden's Pulpit and Cave— Through the Fields to Ayr Road—
The Halfway House — The Estate of Coodham — Peace-and-Plenty —
Back to Kilmarnock.

FROM Craigie Mains a short walk along an avenue landed
me in the highway that runs between Bogend Toll, Craigie,
and other places. Turning to the left, I took the first road
to the right and directed my steps to the Wallace monument,
which is a prominent object on the heights of ^Bmweill and
discernible from a great distance. The road was somewhat
steep and rugged, but I liked its rustic appearance, and fairly
revelled in the rays of the mid-day sun, as I paused now and
again to listen to the rich notes of the lark, or view the way-
side flowers as they nodded on their slender stems in the
balmy breeze. When nearing Underbill — a small hamlet
consisting of a wright's shop and a few detached houses — I
observed a well in a shady spot on the dusty highway and sat
down by its brink to rest. Producing a drinking cup I dipped
it, and quaffed a bumper of cool spring water. How it re-
freshed— how it invigorated, and made me grateful to the
Creator for one of His best and most bountiful blessings !
After lingering by the liquid treasure, I ascended Barn-
weill Hill, pausing now and again to view the monument
and surrounding scenery. While thus engaged my attention
was attracted by the ruin of Barnweill church, which stands
within a belt of trees that enclose a small burying-grouud
on the north-west side of the hill. Over a field gate, which
on trial I found locked, I saw that of the graveyard opposite.
By the worn appearance of the rails it was evident that the
curious had found admittance by climbing over the barrier ;
therefore, following their example, I vaulted across, traversed
the field, and entered the churchyard, the situation of which
is truly picturesque. Reverently treading over the grassy
graves I advanced to the ruin, which seems when entire to

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOOK.

67

have been a moderately-sized one-storied building, and entered
the roofless sanctuary by a broken-down doorway, but alas !
there was nothing of interest to be seen. All was wreck, the
floor being covered with rubbish, out of which grew nettles and
rank grass. The outside is more cheerful. The two gables,
which are pretty entire, are almost covered with ivy. Up to
a recent date a bell hung in one of them, but it is now removed,
and in the keeping of a gentleman in the neighbourhood.
Little is known regarding the old church of Earnweill. It
was, previous to the Reformation, a Roman Catholic place of
worship, and at one time within the ruin there was to be seen
an inverted holy- water font. At the suppression of the parish —
which Paterson states took place in 1714 — the church doubt-
less would be deprived of its minister, and very likely, being
unoccupied, it gradually became ruinous. Be that as it may,
the worshippers have long departed, and

" Where of old there stood

The altar and God's shrine, so loved and treasured,
Comes now the blackbird's ceaseless, gladsome hymn,
Poured forth with gratitude and joy unmeasured."

The stones in the churchyard are few and scattered, and
merely contain the simple announcement that the individuals
whom they are meant to commemorate lived and died. One
tablet bears the date 1661, but there are other stones on
which the records are unreadable that have every appearance
of being anterior.

Taking leave of the secluded spot, I gained the road by the
same means that I left it, and after walking up the steep as-
cent for a short distance turned to the left. Here I entered
what had the appearance of being a piece of waste ground, for
portions of rock and loose stones lay confusedly about, and
made the surface most uneven. Advancing to the
brow of a hill that rises abruptly from the north, and
from which a gorgeous view of a great portion of the district
of Cunninghame is obtainable, I rapturously gazed upon the
scene as it lay spread out like an unrolled map. Tradition states
that this height was used by the lords of Craigie Castle as
an outlook station, and that it was the site of an old fortress,
which doubtless has been the case, for the appearance of the
ground indicates that the foundations of a building lie buried

68 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

beneath the soil, and even the moat that surrounded it can be
traced with facility.

After lingering awhile to view the expanse of country
I returned to the road and continued the ascent of
Bamweill Hill, and ultimately, after considerable exertion,
reached the summit whereon stands the Wallace monu-
ment, and on which, tradition states, the Scottish hero
paused in his flight to view the lurid flames that con-
sumed the Barns of Ayr, which he had fired in revenge for
the murder of his uncle and other noblemen. He must have
watched the scene with intense interest, for, as the flames shot
heavenward, he exclaimed, " The Barns o' Ayr burn weel !"
— a pithy saying from which it is said the place takes its
name.

The monument — which was built to commemorate the
above act — is surrounded by trees, and stands in an
enclosed ornamented piece of ground. It consists of a square
tower about twelve feet at the base, and fully sixty feet high.
It has a castellated appearance, and is surmounted with turrets
topped with sculptured thistles. It contains a spiral stair,
and above the entrance the Wallace arms are blazoned in
bas-relief. On three sides there are indented tables bearing
the following inscriptions : —

"Erected MCCCCLV., in honour of Scotland's greatest national
hero, the renowned Sir William Wallace, born MCCLXX., who
after performing numerous exploits of the most consummate
bravery in defence of the independence of his country was
basely betrayed into the hands of his enemies, by whom, to
their everlasting disgrace, he was unjustifiably put to death
on the xxin. of August, MCCC. Centuries have not dimmed
the lustre of his heroic achievements ; and the memory of
this most disinterested of patriots shall through all ages be
honoured and revered by his countrymen.

" A soul supreme, in each hard conflict tried,
Above all pain, all passion, and all pride,
The frown of power, the blast of public breath,
The love of lucre, and the dread of death."

II.
" Sir William Wallace, Regent of Scotland, MCCXCVII. In

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. G9

resistance to treacherous invasion, and in defence of the laws
and liberties of his country, he fought against fearful odds
the desperate battles of Biggar, Stirling, Blackearnside, and
Falkirk, and between these actions, in little more than a
year, he stormed and took from the invaders every fortress,
castle, and town which they had seized in the kingdom.
Though worsted at Falkirk by overwhelming numbers, aided
by fatal dissensions in his own army, he continued warring
\vith the oppressors of his native land until his foul betrayal,
seven years after that disastrous battle, by the execrable
Monteith."

in.

" ' At Wallace name, what Scottish blood
But boils up in a spring-tide flood ! '

Ever honoured be the memory of the matchless Sir William
Wallace, the first of his countrymen who in an age of despair
arose and

' Dared to nobly stem tyrannic pride,'

throw off the yoke of foreign oppression, and maintain the
independence and nationality of Scotland; and who, by deeds
of surpassing valour and stainless patriotism, has glorified
this his native land, and imperishably associated his name
with the defence of national rights and the liberties and
immunities of freeborn men. From Greece arose Leonidas,
from Scotland Wallace, and from America Washington —
names which shall remain through all time the watchwords
and beacons of liberty." Such is the eulogium bestowed on
" the matchless Sir William Wallace."

" Had he fought for Greece of old,
His urn had been of beaten gold,
The children of his native land
Had hewn for him with cunning hand
A mountain for a monument,"

and not allowed centuries to elapse before they raised a stone
to his memory; however, in my opinion, stone, lime, and
"tall talk" make but a poor monument to a national benefac-
tor. The memory of the great and good of any nation is best
preserved when enshrined in the hearts of their countrymen,

70 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

and when their names and deeds are handed down from
generation to generation by an appreciative people.

At the gate of the plot wherein the monument stands there
is a neat lodge, at the door of which I tapped after viewing
the exterior of the pile. It was opened by a middle-aged
woman, who upon being made aware of my wish to examine
the interior kindly sent a boy along with me, who proved a
capital cicerone and withal very polite and obliging. Opening
the door of the monument, we entered, and my young friend
began to ascend the spiral stair with alacrity. I followed,
but " such a getting up stairs I never did see," and it was
not until after considerable exertion that the battlemented
roof was .reached. The scene that met my vision was
gorgeous. Far above the tree-tops I looked down upon
a splendid natural panorama, and ecstatically viewed the
variegated scene. Cut on the stonework I observed the
words, " The Earns o' Ayr burn weel." This caused me
to look in the direction that "the saviour of Scotland"
is supposed to have done, and was delighted to find auld
Ayr the most prominent object on the landscape. Backed
by Carrick hills, and with the woods of Bosemount inter-
vening, its spires glistened in the sunshine, and the smoke
that curled from a thousand chimneys hung like a pall
over the ancient burgh. To the left of the scene is Tar-
bolton, and near to it are the woods that surround Mont-
gomery Castle, a spot rendered classical by the genius of
Burns, for it was there he took the last farewell of his sweet
Highland Mary, as he so pathetically states in immortal verse.
To the right is the Frith of Clyde, decked with many a sail ;
in the distance Arran hills ; and along the coast lie scattered
Troon, Irvine, and other towns; inland, Dundonald hills and
the old grey ruins of the castle, while peering from a dell are
the spires of Kilmarnock, and on the rising ground beyond
them the quaint village of Fenwick is distinctly seen. But
the scene is too expansive to be described, and the reader to
form an idea of its grandeur must view it for himself, and I
can assure him that the prospect will amply repay the journey
from the town, irrespective of any traditional or historical
association the place may possess.

After some conversation with my youthful guide, who
seemed shocked when he found me somewhat sceptical

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. 71

regarding the supposed origin of the name Barnweill,* I
descended to terra firma, entered my name in "the visitors'
book," and departed highly delighted with my visit to the
monument. /

Pausing in the roadway, it struck me that a portion of -a
monastic building called Fail Castle stood in the vicinity.
Calling to my aid my topographical knowledge of the district,
I crossed a stile, traversed several fields in the direction of
Tarbolton road, and upon arriving in that thoroughfare ob-
served the ruins — which consist of a gable and part of a side
wall — in a stackyard near Fail toll. These remains are
all that are now left of an extensive monastery. When
entire the shattered remnant is said to have been the residence
of the prior or chief minister of the institution. Fail
monastery was founded in 1252, and was dedicated to Saint
Mathurine. The Red Friars to whom it belonged were styled
" Fathers of Redemption," because they devoted their lives
to redeem captives from slavery, yet notwithstanding the
sacredness of their mission they seem to have been a jolly lot
of fellows, if the following stave of an old ditty is to be
relied on: —

" The Friars of Fail

Gat never owre hard eggs or owre thin kail;

For they made their eggs thin wi' butter,

An' their kail thick wi' bread;

An' the Friars o' Fail they made gude kail
On Fridays when they fasted,

An' they never wanted gear enough
As lang as their neighbours' lasted. "

Fail Castle, as the remnant of the manor-house of the
monastery is generally termed, has many weird associations,
its last occupant being a notorious warlock, who, to use the
words of an aged friend, " wrocht mony cantrips in his day,"
and at whose death, tradition states, the castle was blown
down in a storm that Satan had raised to celebrate the event,
it being the consummation of their compact. A fine old
ballad entitled " The Warlock Laird o' Fail" tells how that
worthy revenged himself upon a farmer's wife who had

* " It is evident that the name of Burnwell, derived from an alleged speech of
the celebrated Wallace, is an unsupported vulgar tradition. In the old charters,
and in the records of the kingdom from the earliest period extant, it is spelt
Barnweill or Barneweill : in no single instance that I have ever seen is it spelt
Burnwell." — History of the Cotinty of Ayr," page 460.

72 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

refused him a drink. Slipping "the merry pin" (a magic
instrument that he was possessed of) into the thatch above
the door, the gudewife, who was churning and late with the
dinner, instantly left off her work and began to skip and
dance about the floor in a very happy manner. The reapers
in the field being curious to know why dinner was so
late, came one by one to ascertain the cause, but they had no
sooner passed under "the merry pin" than they became
frolicsomely inclined, and danced and sang with great glee.
When they had danced for some time the warlock withdrew
the pin and the whole company fell down with exhaustion.
Many other tales of the Warlock Laird are extant, and form
subjects to while away the long winter evenings at many an
ingle in the country. Often have I listened to them and
watched the young people

" A' cour wi' dread as they'd list to the crack,
An' start gin a rattin e'en squeaked in the thack."

But such legends are of the past. They are of a time when
superstitious ignorance ascribed to tottering age super-
natural power, and peopled glades and old buildings with
ghosts and hobgoblins.

Adjacent to Fail Castle there is a cluster of rustic cottages
and about a mile distant from them on the top of a hill stands
Tarbolton, a small town with a diminishing population which
at present numbers 829. Its trade consists of weaving and box-
making. Tarbolton is associated with the name of Robert
Burns, the ploughman poet. When residing at Lochlee — a
farm in its vicinity — he wrote many of his best poems, and
was initiated into the mysteries of masonry in the local lodge.
The scene of " Death and Doctor Hornbook" is laid at
" Willie's Mill," a place near the town. The mill referred
to by the poet has been pulled down, and a new one
erected. On the face of the brae near to the mill two stones
are yet pointed out as those upon which "Robin" and
Death " eased their shanks" when they held their memorable
conversation about "Jock Hornbook o' the clachan."

The Rev. Alex. Peden was schoolmaster in Tarbolton before
he entered the ministry. In Coilhome wood there is a ledge of
rock called " Peden's Pulpit," and further up the river Ayr
there is a cavity in the face of a cliif called " Peden's Uave,"

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. 73

in which it is said the good man often concealed him-
self during the troublous times of the Persecution. The
" Pulpit" overlooks a level piece of ground which is enclosed
by lofty banks and precipitous cliffs, and when he preached on
it his auditory sat on the green sward with their firelocks and
broadswords over their knees, a necessary precaution at the
period, as many of the churchyards in Ayrshire abundantly
testify.

After lingering some time in the vicinity of Fail Castle,
and being desirous of reaching home before

" The sun was out o' sicht,
And darker gloamin' brocht the nicht. "

I retraced my steps along Tarbolton road, entered a " slap"
by the wayside, followed the course of a cart-track, and after
a stiff walk arrived at the farmhouse of Rotten Eock, and
once more on the summit of Barnweill Hill. Going round to
the back of the monument I crossed a fence at a place well
worn by the feet of near-cut-seekers, and followed a beaten
path through a field skirting the kirkyard of Barnweill.

Arriving in an old road I followed its intricate windings
through a farra-steading and down the face of a brae until I
came to Underbill, the cluster of houses already mentioned.
Striking into a stile road that runs along the edge of several
fields, I arrived at the Pow Burn and strayed along its bank
until I came to a rustic bridge by the side of a ruined mill.
This I crossed, and in a short time reached Ayr road at a
point where a road branches off to the village of Symington.

From the Wallace Monument to Ayr road through the
fields is one of the most picturesque and secluded byeways
in the district. While descending the heights a wide track
of country lies before the pedestrian, and the scene is enhanced
by the thousand natural beauties that fringe the path as it
winds along the wirnpling burn that purls through the glen.

Turning my face homeward I passed what is termed " the
half-way house to Ayr," a favourite halting place where
pleasure parties to and from " the auld toun" generally stop
to water their horse and partake of refreshments. At its door
were two machines laden with a happy rollicking lot of
lads and lasses who seemed to enjoy themselves immensely,

74 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

for they laughed and joked right merrily, and looked as if
they had had a pleasant day of it somewhere.

At Bogend Toll I paused to decipher a milestone and dis-
covered that it was 4f miles from Kilmarnock, a circumstance
that gave me very little concern, for Ayr road is one of the
best and most picturesque highways I ever traversed. At this
bar there are a few neat cottages and an entrance to Coodham,
a handsome estate, well wooded, and for the most part walled
in. Passing through the gateway a pleasant walk along the
carriage drive brought me in front of the mansion house — a
massive square building, at the back of which there is a lake
with an island in its centre. The island is covered with
shrubbery and contrasts beautifully with the sylvan scene
that surrounds the margin of the water.

Coodham is at present the residence of W. H. Houldsworth,
Esq., who purchased it some three years ago. Since it came
into his possession he has expended large sums in improving
its appearance and in rendering the mansion more commodious
and comfortable. On the occasion of my visit the foundation
of an extensive wing was laid, and a large conservatory, and
a small but neat chapel (both connected with the mansion)
•were all but completed.

Formerly this estate belonged to a family named Fairlie.
In 1826 Mrs. William Fairlie, the widow of a wealthy Cal-
cutta banker, purchased it, and it is said expended £20,000
in improvements. The mansion house was built by this lady,
the cost of which is included in the above sum. Following
the course of the carriage drive — which passes through the
estate — I found its terminus adorned with a handsome pillared
gateway and neat lodge, and situated in Ayr road a mile
nearer home than the Bogend entrance.

Trudging onward I soon reached Spittal Hill, and, with
Eiccarton steeple and the spires of Kilmarnock in full view, I
rejoiced that my ramble was drawing to a close, for the day
was far spent, and the western sky wore a crimson tinge that
betokened rest to man and beast, and hush of toil.

Passing the finely wooded entrance to Treesbank estate I
came to Peace-and-Plenty — a place that derives its name from
a roadside public house that once nourished under that title,
it being the custom of the landlord to supply his customers
with bread and cheese when they purchased a dram. Here

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

75

are situated a row of neat cottages, with gardens behind and
flower-plots in front, tastefully laid out and decked
with choice flowers. The dwellings are scrupulously clean,
and to judge hy their appearance and that of their occupants
a commendable rivalry seems to exist as to who can have the
neatest plot and the most comfortable home. These cottages
were built some years ago by the proprietor of Caprington for
the accommodation of his workpeople, and the experiment
has been so successful that that gentleman has been induced
to build another row of similar dwellings nearly opposite the
entrance gate of his estate.

Leaving Peace-and-Plenty behind I soon passed Caprington
gates, and after a brisk' walk arrived at the village of Eiccar-
ton. Passing the long row of one-storied houses that line
Campbell Street, I crossed the new bridge and entered Kil-
marnock, delighted with my ramble, and feeling better
from having held communion with Nature.

CHAPTER IV.

Wild Flowers — The Macwheelan Murder — The Cairn — Symington — The
Church and Graveyard — Witherington — Old Sandy Neil — "Laird"
M'Pherson— " Jock o' the Whalps"— The Glen.

MY first ramble having wakened both curiosity and interest,
I gave myself to the delight of visiting in my leisure hours
the many scenes and antiquities in the vicinity of the town
that are consecrated by history and hallowed by tradition.
This being the case, I selected a sunny Saturday for my
second ramble, and equipped with a walking-stick I passed
through the Holm, crossed the new bridge at Riccarton, and
sped along Ayr Road. Leaving the village behind I soon
gained Peace-and-Plenty, and paused to admire the neat
flower-plots in front of the miners' cottages, but as they were
already familiar to me I moved on, for

" The wayside flowers, sequestered from the throng
In Nature's quiet lanes,"

are dearer to me than the gaudy plants of the garden. Yes,

" There seems a bright and fairy spell
About their very names to dwell;
And though old Time has marked my brow
With care and thought, I love them now.
Smile if you will, but some heart-strings
Are closest link'd to simplest things;
And these wild flowers will hold mine fast,
Till love, and life, and all be past;
And then the only wish I have

Is that the one who raises
The turf-sod o'er me, plant my grave

With buttercups and daisies/'

About a quarter of a mile from Peace-and-Plenty a road to
Dundouald branches off to the right. Turning into it I
crossed a bridge, beneath which a burnie purled as it jinked
on its way through the fields. A little beyond the bridge I
entered a road on my left which is known as Fortacres Road.
Like most old roads it is ru-god and undulating, but never-
theless it is very pleasing, because from its heights the eye

RAMBLES ROUXD KILMARNOCK. it

sweeps over a wide range of landscape. Following its course
for half-a-mile or so, I came to a part where it takes a sudden
turn and passes on to Fortacres and other places.

At the turn on the left hand side there is a cairn or heap
of stones, formed by every passer-by so inclined adding one.
It marks the spot where one of the most cold-blooded and
heartless murders that ever stained the annals of our country
was committed, for there one in the dawn of early manhood
welled out his heart's blood, and stained the highway with
the crimson tide. He was named James Young, was in the
eighteenth year of his age, and a native of Kiccarton. On
the evening of Dudd's-day, 1848, he left the farm of Fort-
acres, where he was serving, promising to return the same
night. About seven o'clock he arrived at his father's house
at Knowehead, Jticcarton, and remained in the company of
his father and mother and other members of the family until
half-past ten, when he left to return to his master's house.
That house he never reached, for his body was found by two
young men about four o'clock next morning at the spot indi-
cated lying in a pool of blood, with a ghastly wound in the
neck that had been inflicted with a carpenter's chisel. When
found the body was cold and stiff, and both hands were filled
with earth and grass that the poor fellow had clutched in
the agony of death. A small bundle lay beside it. The
pockets had been rifled, and a silver watch that the victim
wore was gone, showing clearly that the murderer had stained
his soul with blood for the sake of plunder. The authorities
were soon at the scene of the crime, but a clue to the murderer
was wanting. An Irishman named Macwheelan had been
seen lurking in the vicinity on the afternoon of the day of
the murder, and as he was suspected, but having disappeared,
a description of his person was sent to the various police
stations throughout the country, and this circumstance led to
his apprehension. While passing a toll-bar between Eeith
and Paisley, a farmer observed a suspicious-like character
leaving the toll-house. He thought nothing of the circum-
stance at the time, but shortly afterwards, upon hearing that
£35 and a silver watch had been abstracted from it in the
absence of the occupant, it struck him that he knew the
thief, and he at once mounted a horse and rode post-haste
after him. He overtook the object of his search near Paisley,

78 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARN'OCK.

dismounted, laid hold of him, and unaided took the watch
and money from him, after which he detained him and
handed him over to the Paisley police. Finding that the
description of their new prisoner tallied with that of the man
wanted in Kilmarnock, they communicated with the authori-
ties there. He proved to be Macwheelan, was brought to
Kilmarnock, and link after link of evidence was formed until
a chain was made that convicted him. It was found that he
arrived in Beith on the Saturday after the murder, and that
he gave the watch of his victim to an acquaintance to pawn,
and after the proceeds had been squandered in drink he
had set off to Paisley. All this and more was proved against
him at the trial. Suffice it to say he was sentenced to death,
and that he suffered the extreme penalty of the law at Ayr,
dying impenitent, having denied the crime to the last.

As I stood by the spot where the earth had drank a
brother's blood I thought on the present barbarous state of.
society, and wondered when the great federation of mankind
would take place. Eighteen hundred years have rolled away
since the angelic host on the plains of Bethlehem announced
the " good tidings of great joy," and proclaimed " peace on
earth and goodwill toward men ;" but alas ! that blessed state
is still far distant, and will remain so, so long as men dis-
regard the laws of their being and allow a spirit of selfishness
to predominate over their duty to God and themselves.

Throwing a stone on the cairn — -not with a feeling of
superstitious reverence, but as a mark of my abhorrence of
the crime — I descended the hill and at Fortacres toll entered
a road that turns off in the direction of Symington. It is
one of the old country sort, rugged, hilly, and winding, but
it passes through a varied and beautiful country, and as I
traversed it I was charmed with the view of Duudonald hills,
the old grey ruins of the castle, and many other beauteous
scenes that stud the landscape.

A walk of two miles or better brought me to the secluded
village of Symington, a small place with some 300 inhabit-
ants, who are nearly all engaged in agricultural pursuits. It
is beautifully situated. In and around it there are very many
fine old trees, whose giant arms 'and luxuriant foliage give to
the place a picturesque appearance and to the visitor a favour-
able impression. The houses are nearly all one-storeyed, and

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. 79

for the most part are built near the church — a quaint, old-
fashioned, low-roofed structure, with an old-fashioned-like
clock on its front, and a bell, the rope of which dangles by
the side of the building. It stands in the centre of a small
burying-ground, which is surrounded by a wall and shaded
by tall trees. The date of its erection is unknown. Chalmers
says — " The church of Symonstoun was granted to the con-
vent which was founded at Feil, or Faile, in Kyle, during
the year 1252, and it continued to belong to that convent
till the Reformation. The cure was served by a vicar pen-
sioner who had a settled income and a glebe, and the minister
and brothers of Faile enjoyed the remainder of the tithes and
revenues." In 1797 the church was repaired, and a , wing
added to it, but at this date it is in an excellent state of
preservation, and likely to serve for many generations.

Being desirous to inspect the burying ground, I tried the
gate, but found it locked. Climbing to the top of the wall I
dropped inside and stepped with reverence upon the grassy
mounds, and in the quietude of the place spent an hour of
sad reflection rambling among the tombstones. Many of
these are very old and curious, and have, when new, been
masterpieces of art in the eyes of the villagers. Near the
church door there are several elaborately carved, and bearing
curious devices, in which the plough, the spade, the skull, and
cross bones are very prominent. There are several very chaste
stones and monuments of recent erection, amongst which that
to the memory of the Rev. Thomas M'Cracken is the most
attractive. It bears the following inscription : — " Erected by
the Free Church congregation of Symington in affectionate
remembrance of the Rev. Thomas M'Cracken, A.M., M.D.
Born 2nd November, 1836; ordained llth May, 1865;
died 31st May, 1869. He fell asleep." From the church-
yard I gained the roadway by crossing the wall at a corner
where stands the ruins of a cottage, and found myself opposite
an entrance to the manse, It was built in 1786, and is at
present occupied by the Rev. Mr, Davidson, the parish
minister.

At the foot of the village is situated the Free Church, and
adjacent to it the schoolhouse of the body. The church is a
small building entirely destitute of architectural adornment.
It bears the date 1843.

80 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOOK.

At the foot of the village also, and in a field off a road that
branches towards Ayr, an individual named Witherington was
executed in 1815 for highway robbery. This place was the
scene of the crime. He was tried in Edinburgh, and from
that city was brought under a strong escort. When passing
through Kilmarnock the cortege was followed by a vast crowd
to the place of execution. When the revolting spectacle had
been gone through the body of the culprit was cut down, con-
veyed to the town, and buried in the Low Churchyard.

Although. Symington is mentioned in records dating as far
back as the reign of Malcolm IV. and William the Lion, yet
there is little of interest connected with it, the church being
the only antiquity in the district. Symon Loccard held the
lands under Walter, the first Stewart, in 1165, and from him
they are said to have derived the appellation of Symonstoun.
This Symon also held a manor in the upper part of
Lanarkshire which bears the same name.

Symington cannot boast of having given birth to any
" eminent characters," although it has produced several droll
ones. The most prominent of these was old Sandy J^eil, the
minister's man — or, in other words, beadle, bellman, and
gravedigger. He was a droll character in every sense of the
word, and will be long remembered for his eccentric habits
and witty sayings. There is a story told of him in connection
with the church clock. It seems at one time to have got out
of repair and would either go too fast or too slow. Several
clockmakers had tried their hand at it but had failed to
regulate it. Sandy latterly took the wayward machine in
hand, and under his care it kept excellent time. A villager
meeting him one day said — "Man, Sandy, the clock does
brawly noo since ye took it in hand ; hoo do you manage V
" Weel," replied Sandy, " when she gangs owre fast I just
throw a shoolfu' o' gravel intae her ; an' when she gangs owre
slow I just tak' a pickle oot."

One Sabbath a goat found its way into the churchyard
during divine service, and finding the churchdoor open
walked in. The intruder being observed, Sandy's attention
was called to it. Going up he stroked its back with great
kindness, and gently pushed it towards the door, but when
he got it there he kicked it into the churchyard, and as he
did so, exclaimed — " Out the house o' God, ye brute ! out the
house o' God !"

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. 81

I might relate other anecdotes of old Sandy did
space permit, for there are many good things told of him ;
but he has passed away with all his peculiarities, and now
sleeps

" Where the cottar and the laird
Lie side by side and slumber
In the auld kirkyard."

" Laird" M'Pherson was another well-known character. He
was a shoemaker, and was dragged into fame against his will,
being chosen by Thorn, the sculptor, as the model of his
Souter Johnnie. The likeness is very striking, and any one
who knew the " Laird" cannot fail to recognise him in the
figure at the Burns' monument.

The road that passes through Symington proceeds north-
westward by Dundonald. When passing up that por-
tion on which the village is built, I was amused to see the
occupants of the priinitive-like cottages looking after me.
Doubtless they speculated as to who and what I was, and
what would be the purport of my visit. At the outskirts of
the hamlet the road makes a quick descent. Here I stopped
at a well to drink from the pitcher of a village maid with bare
feet and unkempt hair. Her laughing countenance spoke hap-
piness and contentment, and as I drank I longed to be
as void of care as she. The well is an open one. It is neatly
built in, and bears the date of 1821. Making good use of
my stick I sped onward and soon left the village behind. The
road is very picturesque, and winds over gently rising
grounds. On either side are sloping fields with numerous
enclosures, clumps of planting, farmhouses, and gentlemen's
residences. The mansion house of Townend and the woods
and lawns that surround it have a fine appearance from the
road. This estate is delightfully situated, and being
greatly improved of late years, is one of the finest in the
district.

Arriving at a very romantic portion of the road where a
craggy eminence is covered with trees and decked with
brambles and creeping ivy, I turned into a roadway that
leads to Clavin farm. Proceeding along it for a short dis-
tance I came to an excavation in the face of a mound, on the
top of which there is a plantation. The place is called "Jock

82 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

o' the Whalps," and is so named from the circumstance that
a hermit-like personage hearing that title lived in a wretched
hut huilt against the face of the rock, with his wife,
a pig, a cow, and a number of fowls. The hut has
long been in ruins. John Vallance was the proper name of
this "charicter." He is said to have received the appellation
of " Jock o' the Whalps " from his having taken a number
of moles to Ireland and sold them to the green natives as the
pups of a peculiar species of the dog tribe. He was an indi-
vidual of very filthy habits. Sharing the apartment in which
he lived with a pig was not his worst fault, for it is affirmed
that if a cow in the neighbourhood died of disease he would
watch the place where the carcase was buried, disinter it by
night, carry it piecemeal to his dwelling, and convert it into
hams, but for what purpose can only be conjectured.

About a quarter of a century ago a favourite walk was to
Jock's residence, and many pranks the youths of the town
played upon him. He was a native of Stranraer, but when
very young settled in the parish of Symington. In early
manhood he is said to have been well-to-do in the world, but
how he came to adopt the strange mode of life that he led
during his latter years seemingly no one knows. Over
twenty years have passed away since he lived, but he is still
remembered and his name has become a household word in
the district.

Eeturning to the highway, I held onward until I came to
a spot where the road takes a sudden bend. Here I entered an
avenue, and having passed through a field gate began to
ascend a steep hill-side. The sward beneath my feet felt soft
and carpety, and the blooming heath perfumed the air with
its fragrance. At my approach numerous rabbits timorously
scampered off to conceal themselves in their burrows beneath
the furze, while the linnet chirped its alarm as it flew from
bush to bush. Gaining the top of the eminence I reached a
plateau, which is of circular form and surrounded by the
ruins of a wall supposed to be of Roman origin, and to have
enclosed an encampment or look-out station — a purpose for
which the height is eminently adapted, for it commands a
wide range of the Frith of Clyde and of the surrounding
country. Seating myself on a boulder, I gazed with delight
on the scene — a scene the like of which cannot be witnessed

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. 83

from an equal elevation in any other part of the country.
Looking eastward a glimpse of the Emerald Isle is obtained,
and the dark hills of Arran are seen standing out in bold
relief, forming a fine background to the waste of waters
that lie between them and our shore. Along the coast are
several towns with wreaths of smoke hanging over them,
while the view inland is said to comprise " portions of
fourteen counties." Eeluctantly withdrawing my gaze from
the delightful prospect, I descended the hill in the direction
of the farm of Harperscroft, and having gained Troon Road
turned my face towards Dundonald, and sped onward at a
brisk pace.

Arriving at the' entrance to " The Glen," I paused and
listened to the flood of song poured forth by the feathered
inmates of the wqod. There is a neat gateway here, and near
it a board fixed to a post with the polite request, " Please
shut the gate," painted thereon. Entering, I complied with
the modest demand, and walked down the pathway, shaded
from the sun's rays by the wealth of foliage overhead.

" The Glen" is a pass through the Clavin Hills, is used as afoot-
road to Troon, and is much resorted to by pedestrians and picnic
parties during the months of summer. The sward is of a mossy
nature, and feels soft and elastic under the feet; and here
and there in the pathway I observed names arid initials, the
letters being formed by the removal of the turf. The plan-
tation through which " The Glen" passes is thickly wooded.
The tall trees in some instances stretch their arms over the
path and form a leafy canopy, while Flora has scattered her
flowery gems around in rich profusion. In the wood the
foxglove, the harebell, and the tall fern grow in wild luxuri-
ance, and enhance the beauty of this truly picturesque place.
Directing my steps to the farm of Hallyards, I entered the
garden in quest of the ruins of St. Mary's Chapel ; but alas !
time and the many improvements made by the tenant have
nearly obliterated all traces of this ancient religious house.
With some difficulty I managed to trace a portion of the
walls, but did not meet with anything calling for special note.
About one hundred yards or so from the site there is a well
of excellent spring water winch is still known as St. Mary's
well, but like the chapel its history is shrouded in oblivion.
Seating myself by its brink I mused upon ''the days that are

84 RAJIBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

gone " — dark days, -when superstition strangled science and
retarded the progress of the human race. Producing a
drinking cup, I dipped it, and as I quaffed the dripping
bumper I felt thankful that my lot was cast in an age and in
a land where science is nurtured and where intellectual and
political freedom is the birthright of every citizen.

CHAPTEE V.

The House of Auehans — Dundonald Castle — The Village and Parish Church
— Extracts from the Parochial Kegisters — Smuggling — Tarn Fullarton
— Newfield — " Fairlie o' the Five Lums" — Old Rome — Home again.

Leaving ecclesiastical haunts, I entered a path in the wood,
and after following its intricate windings through the glade ar-
rived at Auehans Castle, as it is called, but strictly speaking it is
nothing more than a mansion-house of the olden time that
has been built for defensive purposes. The building is
extremely plain, is constructed for the most part of whin-
stone, and forms two sides of a square. One wing bears the
date 1644, which infers that it is an addition to an earlier
portion, and possibly the erection of Sir William Cochrane,
who acquired the lands of Dundonald in 1638, and those of
Auehans in 1640. Previous to the ancestor of the Earls of
Dundonald coming into possession, the house of Auehans
was the residence of a family named Wallace, the last of
whom was a Colonel James. He was a devoted supporter of
the Solemn League and Covenant, and headed the rising at
Pentland. Through the unfortunate scientific speculations
of Archibald, ninth Earl of Dundonald, Auehans came into
the possession of the Eglinton family. The last individual
of distinction who occupied the venerable mansion was
Archibald, eleventh Earl of Eglinton, and his gifted mother,
the Countess, to whom Eamsay inscribed his ." Gentle Shep-
herd." That gentlewoman died in it in 1780, in the ninety-
first year of her age. Bos well, in his " Journal of a Tour to
the Hebrides with Dr. Johnson," in 1773, states that he
along with the celebrated lexographer visited her ladyship,
while she resided in the house of Auehans, and gives a
spirited account of the interview, and states that when going
away she embraced her distinguished visitor and said, " My
dear son, farewell !" The ground apartments of the building
are at present occupied by foresters on the estate, but the

86 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

greater part of the interior is in a ruinous condition, and
curious enough the most recent portion of it has suffered
most. Ascending the stair of a tower situated in the corner
of the courtyard, I was struck by the devastation that time
and neglect has wrought. Many of the apartments were in a
hopelessly irreparable condition, and looked as if they had
been bombarded by artillery. The floors in several had
fallen through, and in others rotten rafters and portions of
walls hung so loosely that I expected every moment to see
them crash into the rooms below.

Leaving the sombre-looking building I crossed the grass-
covered courtyard and entered the garden, which is still
under cultivation. In the orchard grew the parent tree of the
Auchans pear, which was brought from France at an early
date, and was the first of its kind in this country. It was
blown down in 1793.

From the garden I passed through a wicket and strolled
along a footway that runs along the bottom of a thickly-
wooded bank. In some parts the light of day was almost
excluded by the wealth of foliage overhead, and in others

" The birch rock-rooted drooped
And draped with lightsome shadows from its leaves
Tlie lone path, and burn that sang a song unheard."

At a neat gate the romantic footway merges into an old road
that passes beneath the shade of some fine old trees.
Following its course for a short distance I arrived at a low
wall that surrounds the rocky mound on whose summit
stands Dundonald Castle, roofless and shattered, yet
in decay, looking stern and defiant from its commanding
position, arid bidding fair to brave the elements for many years
to come. Crossing the wall I began the ascent, greatly to
the amazement of a number of cows quietly browsing on
the scant herbage that clothes the hillside, for they
looked wonderingly at me as if half inclined to resent the
intrusion. Beaching the ruin without mishap, I began my
explorations, but lack-a-day ! it bore ample testimony that
wreck and decay had long held unchecked revelry within
and without, for blocks of masonry lay as they had toppled
from the walls, and melancholy silence pervaded the place.
The courtyard — a portion of the walls of which are still
standing — was covered with debris and rank grass, and like

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. 87

its surroundings had an abandoned and desolate appear-
ance. The castle is not extensive; it is a rectangular building,
two storeys high, but tradition states that it was at one time
three, and that the stones of one were used to build the house
of Auchans. Its architecture is very plain, and the walls,
which are of great thickness, contain gun ports and arrow
slits. On the western wall the royal arms of Scotland and
other devices in alto relievo are still discerniblCj although
much disfigured by time and weather. The interior consists
of one spacious chamber with an arched roof of rubble work,
a portion of the keep, a cell of which is entire, and several
underground vaults, which are for the most part filled with
rubbish. Round the conical eminence portions of a moat
can be distinctly traced. This would render the stronghold
almost impregnable prior to the introduction of artillery, and
would make it worthy of the royalty that history and tradi-
tion ascribes to it.

Following the example of some boys, I climbed to the top
of the castle by the aid of some rusty-looking nails that some
one had driven into the wall ; but I near came paying dearly
for my foolhardiness, for a portion of the masonry gave way,
and I was within an ace of coming down faster than I went
up — a circumstance that most likely would have been the
means of furnishing my family with mourning dresses.

Beyond a small chamber there is nothing of interest to be
met with on the top of the building save the extensive pro-
spect. I was fairly enchanted with it, and remained up some
time to enjoy it. Towards the north-west a wide expanse of
sea glistened in the afternoon sunlight, and inland an
expansive view of the fertile district of Cuninghame lay
before me. At my feet, as it were, the pretty little village
of Dundonald, with its line of street and neat parish church,
was in itself a picture of rustic neatness. Behind the castle,
and at the foot of the eminence, there is a truly picturesque
scene which consists of a precipitous cliff clothed with wood.
It looked dark and gloomy. Around it swooped flocks of
dark-plumaged birds, which kept up a discordant noise as
they screamed forth their harsh notes of pleasure or alarm.

Having performed the somewhat dangerous and difficult
task of descending from the top of the building, I strolled
down the face of the hill and left the shattered remnant of

88 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

the castle to crumble and decay beneath the heavy finger of
time. The mound on which the castle stands is the only
piece of ground in the district that now belongs to the Dun-
donald family, and it is stated that the Earl takes his title
from it, and will retain it so long as the walls of the castle
hold together.

When or by whom the castle of Dundonald was built is
unknown, but judging by the style of its architecture and
the construction of its walls it is probable that its erection
dates as far back as the twelfth or thirteenth century.
Tradition states that a fortlet of a much earlier date occupied
the site, and a popular rhyme of great antiquity makes men-
tion of it as follows : —

" There is a castle in the wast,

They ca' it Donald's din;
There's no a nail in it ava,
Nor yet a timmer pin."

" The first historical notice we have of the place," says the
Statistical Account, " is in the time of the third Walter the
Stewart, who was styled 'of Dundonald,' and was made
Justiciary of Scotland by Alexander II., at St. Andrews, in
1230. It is said, however, by Chalmers that the manor and
parish belonged to Walter, the son of Allan, the first Stewart,
who held the whole of the northern half of Kyle, in the
beginning of the reign of William the Lion, and that it might
have been granted to him by David I. or his successor,
Malcolm IV. Nothing more is known or even conjectured
regarding it until the reign of Eobert II., who appears, by
several charters dated at Dundonald, to have made it the
place of at least occasional residence from 1371 till the time
of his death in 1390. This latter event is particularly men-
tioned by the Prior of St. Serf's Inch, Loclileven.

' The secownd Kobert of Scotland Kyng
As God purwaid maid endying
At Dowdownald in his countrie.
Of a schort sickness thare deyed he.'* — Wynton, B. ix. C. 10.

That his gentle but ill-starred son and successor, Eobert III.,
died in the same place, is also asserted by the same author ;

* When Dr. Johnson visited the ruin, Boswell states that he was "very jocular
on the homely accommodation of 'King Bob,' and roared and laughed till the
ruins echoed."

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. 89

and though his authority on this point is disputed by Pinker-
ton and Fourdon, there are others of no mean authority, such
as Ruddiman and Macpherson, who stand up in defence of
the testimony of the poet. But, be this as it may, there can-
not be a doubt of his continuing to reside here sometime after
his father's death ; and it is probable that it was honoured
by occasional visits from his royal successor till the time of
James IV. From the predecessor of this monarch, James III.,
Allan, first lord Cathcart, obtained the custody of the castle,
with the dominical lands, in 1 482, and with this family they
may be supposed to have continued for some time. The next ac-
count we have of it is in 1527, the date of a charter from James
V., confirmatory of one probably given in. his minority, and
granting it in right of possession to a person of the name of
"Wallace, a cadet, in all likelihood, of the family of Craigie."
This family probably built the original part of the house of
Auchans Avhen the castle began to be ruinous. From the
castle hill I strolled through the village of Dundonald, and
found it to be neat in appearance and picturesque in situation,
being embosomed in a hollow at the foot of one of the Clavin
hills. Its vicinity is well wooded, and the sombre ruins of the
castle that frown from the height near it makes it doubly ro-
mantic. The houses are all modern in construction, and form
a line of street about a quarter of a mile long. The inhabi-
tants are cleanly in their habits and very tasteful about their
dwellings — in fact, the whole place has an air of bien
respectability and comfort. It contains two inns, a com-
modious schoolhouse, and two churches — the one Established
and the other Free. The Established, or Parish Church,
stands at the head of the village in front of the graveyard,
and is a plain square building with a handsome spire, in which
there is a clock and bell. It was built in 1803, and occupies
the site of a very ancient religious edifice that belonged to the
monks of Paisley previous to the Reformation. In it was
interred the mortal remains of William, first Earl of Dun-
donald. He died in 1686. The bell that belonged to it is an
antiquarian curiosity. It is in the possession of the Free
Church of Dundonald, and bears the following inscription : —
" SANCTE EGIDIE ORA PRO NOBIS ANNO DNI. M.CCC.LXXXX.
V to. X," which being translated, signifies — " Saint Egidius
pray for us. In the year of our Lord Jesus Christ, 1395."

90 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARN'OCK.

During the construction of the new church this relic was sus-
pended between two trees in the churchyard, and was rung to
summon the congregation to attend the ministrations of a
clergymen who preached from a tent. The graveyard contains
many gravestones, but there are none very curious or interest-
ing. The oldest is dated 1737.

" The Statistical Account," in mentioning the Parochial
Registers, says — " The oldest volume, containing the records
of session, and bearing date 1602, is tolerably entire ; nay,
strange to say, much more so than any of the succeeding
ones. It extends over a period of forty years, comprising a
silent interval of sixteen years, and contains a great deal of
parochial information that is curious and interesting. Among
other entries of this kind are minutes of the trial of Patrick
Lowrie, warlock, and Catherine M'Tear, demite of witchcraft.
These seem to have been cases of peculiar interest and con-
siderable judicial difficulty, from the minute detail of evidence
adduced, and the length of time they appear to have been
under trial. The attention of the session was more or less
occupied by them for nearly five years — a term which would
now-a-days do no small honour to a chancery lawsuit. Not-
withstanding all this trouble, however, matters seem to have
been left just where they began, no decision being recorded.
The volume contains a record of a different, and to Scotchmen
at large, of a more interesting kind — namely, the Solemn
League and Covenant, to which are added no fewer than 222
signatures. But of these, which is a lamentable proof of the
low state of education at the time, 179 are subscribed by proxy,
because, as is stated, 'they could not wryt themselfs.' It
appears, however, that the eyes of the public were beginning
to open to this defect, as we find them making arrangements
two years afterwards, in 1640, for forming what may be con-
sidered the first parish school." The following extracts may
be interesting to the reader : —

" 17th March, 1605. — John Fergushill, j^ounger of Haly,
deferrit ane slanderous taill spoken to him lay Agness Lyoun,
spous to Petir Renkin in Parkheid ; she aledgand upon George
Lachland her author, as the said George Lachland aledgit
Symon Muir his author — ' That the late minister of Kihviii-
iiing now departit this life was eardit with his mouth down,
and that he confessit that the minister of Ayr and Irvine,

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. 91

and he, had the wyt of all the ill wedder this year.' "

" 10 July, 1608.— The quilt day Isohell Turnbill, in Lones,
comperand before the session, was accusit of the sclandler of
ane superstitious doing by her. Declared that she was sent
for anes or twys be Catherine Walker, spous to John Dook, in
Chamber in Lonis, and that when she cam to her she took ane
auld left scho of the husband's, and therein thrust the said
Catherine's sair pap, and cast the said scho over the balk ; and
that she thrust her pap in the scho, and cuist it over the balk
twys or thryse, and thereafter she grew seik."

"8 November, 1629. — The quhilk day the minister
publicklie out of the pulpit, by the authority of the Presby-
tery, did inhibit and discharge all sorte, of charming, and
resorting to charmes, consulting with wizards, sorcerers, and
uthers of that sorte, certifying all and sundrie who did so in
time cuming, they should be chalengit criminallie thairfore,
and followit and persewit with death, as for the crime of
witchcraft."

"16 May, 1642. — The Session ordained that no woman
be suffered to sit in the Kirk in the tyme of sommer with
plyds upon their heids, because it is a cleuck to their sleiping
in tyme of sermon, and desyred the minister to exhort them
gravelie the next day to the observance of the same."

The above are taken from several curious entries which
throw considerable light upon the manners and customs of
the people in byegone days, and upon the stringent measures
the church adopted to enforce morality. ^Notwithstanding
her vigilance, however, cases of illegitimacy frequently oc-
curred, and the cutty stool was too often in requisition to be
consistent with ethics.

Smuggling was extensively carried on in Dundonald in the
olden time, and very many stories are related regarding
those engaged in it. The nearness of the village to the
coast, and the hilly nature of the country, facilitated the
contraband trade considerably. It was carried on extensively
from the year 1700 until 1819, when the stringent measures
then adopted by the Government put a stop to it. From
what I have learned concerning smuggling exploits in the
parish, the men engaged in the illicit traffic must have been
a brave lot of fellows, fearless alike of danger and law. When
on business each man carried what was called a " kent ;"

92 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOOK.

this was a stout stick about four feet long, and very often
loaded with lead. But many carried more effective weapons,
and were not slow to use them when hard pressed by an
enemy. A detachment of infantry were generally stationed
at Irvine for the purpose of protecting the revenue officers in
the discharge of their duty, and many an encounter occurred
between them and the smugglers ; but the latter, armed
with the " kent," were often more than a match for the
soldiers. Upon one occasion a ship arrived in Troon bay
ladened with brandy, which was successfully landed and carted
across the hills under the shadow of night. A con-
siderable quantity found its way to the Holmes and was
secreted, but by some means the excise officers were apprised of
it, and arrived most unexpectedly, accompanied by a strong
body of infantry. Making a seizure the booty was placed in
carts, and triumphantly marched in the direction of Ayr.
When passing Rosemount plantation a party of smug-
glers dashed out, " kents " in hand, and attacked the military.
The fight was short, sharp, and decisive, and ended in the
defeat of the revenue party, who being routed, left the field and
the prize to the victors. I have often heard the name of Tarn
Fullarton mentioned in connection with many smuggling
raids. Tarn was a harum-scarum sort of a chield, a kind of a
dare-devil, who was as fond ot a fight as any Irishman could
be. Upon one occasion Tarn was accompanying a string of
carts laden with contraband goods through a pass in the hills
near the village, when an outlook espied a party of soldiers
drawn up in the way to intercept them. Tarn, however, was
equal to the emergency, and being a good general, he acted
at once. Advising his companions to retrace their steps, and
to drive as fast as whip and rein would permit, he added,
" I'll keep yon lads in check till ye're out o' danger." Turn-
ing their horses, they set off at full gallop, while Tarn
ascended a precipitous cliff, on which was a drystone dyke.
Placing himself behind it he roared defiance. The soldiers,
supposing that a party of smugglers were about to offer battle,
advanced and attempted to attack the place whence the
sounds proceeded. Tarn kept his position, and hurled down
stones with such regularity and precision that the soldiers
had to retire. Deciding upon a new mode of attack, they
proceeded to take the enemy in the rear. Tain observing

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. 93

this, and knowing that his friends had sufficient time to be
out of danger, gave a shout of triumph and dashed into the
wood. The soldiers being unacquainted with by-paths,
and not relishing Tarn's peculiar warfare, relinquished the
undertaking and returned to the turnpike road. I might con
tinue the narration of smuggling stories — for I have collected
many — but I trust the above are sufficient to convey to the
reader a faint idea of the fearless class of men who trod the
hills long ago, defiant alike of law and . revenue officers.
Crags and caverns, known only to themselves, were their
store houses, and in time of emergency the vaults of the
Castle have concealed many a keg of brandy and bale of silk.
From the village of Dundonald I turned into the Kilmar-
nock road, and started on my homeward journey. From the
hamlet it rises to a considerable elevation, then strikes off along
an almost dead level. On the height, I paused and looked
back upon the village and the frowning ruin, then sped
onward. On my right I passed Newfield, the seat of
William Finnie, M.P. The mansion house is situated on the
top of some rising ground a short distance from the road,
and is almost hid from view by trees. Of late years it has
been greatly improved and additions built, and it is now a
handsome residence. Near to it in a marshy piece of
ground is said to be the remains of a Roman bath or
reservoir. The place is nearly always flooded with water,
and it is only in very dry weather that the relic can be seen.
Passing through Damdyke toll-bar, I soon arrived at " Fairlie
o' the five lums," as Fairlie House is locally termed. It is
at present occupied by Captain Tait, a relative of the Capring-
ton family. It stands off the road some considerable distance,
and is approached by a broad carriage drive, at the gate of
which there is a neat lodge. Beyond, on the brow of a
steep brae, where the road swoops down and crosses a fine
bridge that has recently been erected over the Irvine in place
of the old structure, I passed Old Rome, a row of ruined
cottages of mean appearance that were at one time occupied
by a colony of colliers, who left the place when the pits in
the neighbourhood became " wprked out." The prospect
from the bridge is very pleasing, and I need not say that I
lingered sometime to enjoy it. The river comes sweeping
round a bend after washing the bank of the beautiful estate

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARXOCK.

of Caprington and turning the wheel of Cambuskeith Mill ;
it is then skirted by a hanging wood, passes the remains of
Old Rome distillery, purls beneath the bridge, and rolls round
a curve on its way to the sea. Leaving the pleasing scene, I
followed the course of the road, which, a short distance from
the river, crosses a line of railway and enters Gatehead, a
small village that has sprung into existence within the last
fifty years. It has a railway station, but no feature of interest,
being possessed of neither kirk, market, mill, or smithy.

From Gatehead the scenery is very tame, and it was only
at a turn where the road crosses a railway bridge that I had
a glimpse of the picturesque. The gloaming had set in, and
the western sky was tinged with the glory of sunset. JS'ature
seemed hushed, but the stillness that reigned was at intervals
broken by the lowing of cattle and the notes of a blackbird
that piped its evening lay. In the hollow flowed the Irvine.
The turrets of Caprington Castle peered over the tree tops,
and, in the receding distance, Kilmarnock and the quaint
village of Riccarton loomed in the fading twilight.

Passing Gargieston tile-works, and the entrance to the
Mount, the handsome residence of Mrs. Guthrie, I gained
Pointhouse toll, and turned down a narrow lane that runs to
the edge of the Kilmarnock water. Crossing a wooden
bridge I passed up West Shaw Street, and arrived in the
Holm Square, none the worse of iny long walk.

CHAPTER VI.

Beansburn — Dean Castle — Its situation and appearance — The Castle be-
sieged— Destroyed by fire — A Tradition of the Persecution — The Boyd
Family — From the Dean to Craufurdland — Craufurdland Castle and
Grounds — Craufurdland Bridge — Up the Stream to Fenwick.

SELECTING a pleasant morning for my third ramble, I
equipped myself for the road, and set out staff in hand.
Passing up Portland Street, a brisk walk brought me to
Beansburn Toll. Here I paused to view the beautiful scene
that the valley to the east of the road presents. The view is
not extensive, but the background being well wooded it has
a romantic appearance, although somewhat disfigured by the
unsightly buildings that cluster together at the Foundry
Holm. Passing Dean Hill, the pleasantly-situated family
residence of the late Bailie Craig, and numerous villas and
cottages of a less assuming order, I arrived at Beansburn
Smithy — or rather the works of Messrs. M'Kerrow, the noted
agricultural implement makers. Before them lay many
curious machines for the tillage of the ground that would
have astonished our grandfathers, who knew none other than
the plough, the harrow, and the roller. Turning into Dean
Road, which branches off at Beansburn,0 rises to a gentle
eminence, then descends the side of the valley that I looked
down on at the toll, a short walk brought me in sight of the
ruins of Dean Castle, which are approached by a neat road-
way. The ruins look hoary and grey in the distance, nor do
they improve in appearance upon nearer inspection, although
every care is taken to preserve them from the ruthless assaults
of time. Xear to the west wall is the handsome residence of
Mr. K J. Turner, the much-respected factor to his Grace the
Duke of Portland. It is surrounded by a neat garden, and
being under the shadow of the frowning ruin its situation is
romantically picturesque. On the right hand side of the
roadway there is a large mound — seemingly artificial — called

* So named from an insignificant burnie that falls into the Kilmarnock Water
near Tarn's Loup. Tradition states that it was originally called Bienie's Burn, a
girl of that name having drowned herself in one of its pools.

96 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

" Judas Hill." I have heard it asserted that men slain in
battle are buried beneath it, but am of the opinion that it is
nothing more than one of those justice hills so common in
this part of the country, and doubtless was used in days of
feudalism, when the life of the offending vassal depended
upon the whim or caprice of his lord.

By the side of the ruin, and winding zig-zag through the
valley, the Kilrnarnock Water flows on its way 'to the Irvine.
The breast of the hill to the east is draped with wood, and
the Dark Path — a roadway among the trees well known to the
lads and lasses of the town — looks picturesque and inviting.
Near the ruin the grounds are neatly laid out, and the bank
on the west side is ornamented with shrubs and young trees,
which lighten the frowning appearance of the pile and throws
a cheerful aspect over the relic of "hoar antiquity." While
viewing the shattered remnant of feudalism I was accosted
by a gentleman, who proved to be Mr. Turner, the factor.
Inviting me to inspect the interior, I complied, and accom-
panied him through a small gateway into the courtyard ; but
had scarce time to look about me when he presented me with
a bunch of keys, and after telling me that the old place was
at my service left me to my own meditations.

The courtyard is spacious and partly enclosed by a remnant
of the rampart wall. The buildings of the castle, which form
a kind of angle, consist of two massive square towers of
unequal height, with a lesser building intervening. The
lesser tower and building seem to have been an addition to
the higher, which, judging by the thickness of the walls
(9 feet), masonry, loopholes, and construction, dates back to
a very remote period. Above a doorway in the lesser building
there is a crumbling stone tablet, on which is sculptured
the arms of the Boyd family, and an inscription that the
finger of time has obliterated. The higher tower is a sombre-
like building, with an outside stair leading to a low doorway.
Ascending the steps, I applied a key to the lock. The bolt
shot back and I entered a spacious hall, with an arched roof
of rubble work, which must have been a splendid apartment
when decked and furnished. Through a large oblong window
at the far end the sunlight streamed across the floor and lit
up the wreck of former greatness, and cast a hallow over the
shattered abode, wherein the voice of mirth had ceased and

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCR. 97

where oppressive silence reigned profound. My very tread
echoed throughout the ruin, and sounded like a, voice from
the dead, resenting the inspection of a sad memento of au
unfortunate family. In a corner of the apartment I came
upon a spiral staircase, but the steps were gone, and in their
stead a ladder was placed to facilitate ascent. Mounting,
I rambled through the apartments in the upper storeys, but
as they contained nothing of interest a description is un-
necessary ; one with a large window looking northward is said
to have been the chapel. The roof of the tower fell in many
years ago, but lately it has been replaced by one of wood.
Through an opening the top of the walls are reached.
Upon them there is a walk some four feet broad, and also
the remains of a battlement and watch-tower. The view is
very extensive, and comprises not only the town of Kilniar-
nock, but a panoramic scene extending over many miles of
country. At the loot of the staircase there is a small door-
way, and a narrow stair that led to the dungeons below.
These are now turned to a more useful account, one being
used as a milk-house and the others as cellars. At the foot
of this stair the entrance is said to be to a subterranean
passage that communicated with Craufurdland Castle, for,
like all old buildings round which an air of mystery hangs,
the Dean is not without its secret means of egress. There is
a tradition concerning it to the following effect: — Once on a
time — very far back, I fear — the castle was besieged by the
English, who being unable to take it by force or stratagem,
surrounded it with the intention of compelling the garrison to
capitulate. Patiently waiting for three months daily expecting
a surrender, to their surprise one morning the besieged hung a
quantity of new-killed beef over the battlements, and jeeringly
asked the English if they were in want of provisions, for they
had and to spare. Being unable to solve the mystery, the
general raised the siege, and left the field fully persuaded
that the garrison's resources were inexhaustible. The entrance
to the subterranean passage is now closed ; but proof of its
existence is said to have been found upon the late modification
of Craufurdland Castle — a passage being discovered that tra-
dition and supposition pointed to as the communication con-
necting that house with Dean Castle.

Leaving the high tower, I directed my attention to the

93 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

lesser and to the building connected with it, which consists
on the ground floor of what has been a spacious kitchen and
two or three rooms, with arched ceilings. The second
floor seems to have been a large room. It contains a
row of modern-like windows facing the south. It
is roofless and much decayed, and appears to have been the
principal dwelling of the family. The tower contains a
staircase, the steps are much worn,, and several towards the
top have fallen through, and curious enough, though it and
its ruinous associate are the most recently constructed, they
seem to suffer most from the ravages of time.

The last occupant of Dean Castle was "William, fourth Earl
of Kilmarnock. When returning from the Continent, in
1735, he observed in a newspaper that a castle in Scotland
named the Dean had been destroyed by fire. Hastening
home, he found the statement too true. The catastrophe
formed a strange prelude to that unfortunate nobleman's
tragic end. After the destruction of the castle the Earl
resided in Kilmarnock House, and allowed the home of his
ancestors to become a ruin, and as such it has braved the
blast for a hundred and forty years, and now stands a sad
memento of the fallen house of Boyd. Tradition states that
the conflagration was occasioned through the negligence of a
servant-girl, who had left some flax she had been sorting too
near the fire.

' An enumeration of the plenishing of Dean Castle at the
death of Thomas, fifth Lord Boyd, in June, 1611, may
interest the reader. " It was found," says Paterson, "among
the Boyd papers," and is as follows : — " Twa cowpis of siluer,
every ane of thaim vechtan ten unce of siluer ; ane lang carpet,
half worset half selk ; ane schort carpet for the chalmer buird ;
ane lang green buird claithe, the length of the haill buird ;
twa schort green buird clathis for the chalmer buird ; four
cuschownis of tripe veluit ; four cuschownis of carpet rucho
vark ; time schewit cuschownis of the forme of cowering
vark ; four cuschownis of rushie vark ; twa lang buird claiths
of flanderis dam is ; saxteine sernietis of damis ; ane lang
dornick buird claithe ; ane lang damis towell ; ane cower
buird claithe of small lynying; ane duson of dornick serui-
etis; ane braid dornick towell; twelf lang lyning buird
claithis ; four duson and aue half of lyning seruetis ; fy ve

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOOK. 99

buird claithis of grit lyning; fyve duson of round lyning
seruetis ; aucht towells of roun hardine ; four drinking
clathis, twa thairof sewit with selk, and the ither twa paine ;
twa lyning drinking clathis ; ane copbuird clath ; ane down
bed ; audit feddir beddis, with audit bowsteris offering
thairto ; auchteine codis, pairtlie filed with downs and pairt
with feddirs ; auchteine pair of dowbill blankettis ; fyve
cowerings of ruchie vark; ane rallow caddow; sevin hous-
haild cowerings ; saxteine pair of lyning scheittis ; twa pair
of heid scheittis of small lyning, schewit with black selk ;
ane pair of plaiue heid scheittis ; sax pair of heid scheittis ;
ten codwaris of small lyning, schewit with black selk ; sax
codwaris of small lyning, unschewit ; ane stand of spampit
cranibassie vorset courteinis, with ane schewit pand offering
yrto ; ane stand of greine champit curtains, with aue pand
offering yrto ; ane ither stand of gray champit vorset curtains,
with the pand offering yrto; ane stand of greine pladine
curtains, with offering yrto ; and stand of quhyet schewit
curtains; ane pair quhyet vowen curtains, with the pand
offering yrto ; seventie pewdir plaitis ; ane duson pewdir
trunchoris ; ten cowries of pewdir ; seventeine saisceris ; twa
new Inglis quart stowpis ; two new quart flacownis ; thrie
ale tyne quart stowpis ; twa ale tyne quart flacownis ; ane
tyue pynt stowp ; twa new chaliner pottis ; four new tyne
chandilieris ; fyve grat brassin chandilieris ; ane grit morter
of brass, and ane iron pester ; twa tyne bassings, with ane
lawr of tyne; five grit brass panis ; thrie meikle brassin
pottis, and ane lytill brassin pot ; twa iron pottis ; ane gris-
pan of brass, and ane pair of grat standard raxis ; fyve lang
speittis ; ane grit iron tank ; ane meikill frying pan, and ane
grit masking fatt ; thrie gyll fattis ; twa meikili barrals ; four
lytill barrals ; ane burnist, and twa grit iron chimnays ; twa
pair of taingis ; ane chalmer chimuay ; twa lang hall buirds ;
thrie furmis ; ane schort hall buird ; twa chalmer buirds ;
twa chyris of aide ; ane copbuird of aick ; sax buffet stuills ;
ane nieikill bybill (bible); twa meikill meill gurnells of aick;
thrio cofferis ; twa grit kistis of aick, for keiping of naipparie ;
four less kistis, and ane caudill kijt; twa stand bedis of aick."
Dean Castle is associated with the name of " bloody
Dalziel." During a period of the Persecution it was his head-
quarters in Ayrshire, and many atrocities were committed by

100 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOOK.

him and his soldiery in its neighbourhood. Upon one occasion
several troopers observing a man running across a field, gave
chase, but the individual being fleet of foot avoided them,
passed through the entry of a cottage and concealed himself
in a pool of water in the garden. Entering the cottage the
pursuers found an old woman its only occupant. Laying
hold of her, they threatened her with instant death if she did
not deliver up the man. Pleading ignorance of his where-
abouts, she was dragged to the Castle and thrown into one of
the dungeons, where, tradition states, she was allowed to die
of starvation.

At what period any portion of Dean Castle was built is a
matter of conjecture. Pont, who topographized Cuninghame
about 1608, speaks of it as being " veill planted, and almost
environed with gardens, orchards, and a parke," and of being
" the cheiffe duelling almost for 300 zeirs of ye Lords Boyde;"
while Captain Grose, who visited and made a drawing of it in
1789, supposes it to have been built about the beginning of
the fifteenth century.

Paterson hazards an opinion that it was built about 1316,
the lands, according to a c*harter granted by Robert the Bruce,
having passed from John Baliol to Sir Robert Boyd at that
date ; and M'Kay, the local historian, frankly states that
" the period at which either of the towers was erected is
unknown," which I daresay is tantamount to the truth.

Dean Castle was the residence of the Boyds, lords of the
barony of Kilmarnock, as far back as authentic history can
trace. They were ever loyal to the cause of Scot-
land. One fought at the battle of Largs in 1263, and by his
prowess so distinguished himself at Goldberry Hill, an
eminence near to the scene of the action, that a grant of land
in Cuninghame was conferred upon him. His descendants,
from that incident, emblazoned the word " Goldberry " upon
their family shield, Another aided Wallace and Bruce
to emancipate Scotland from the thraldom of the Eng-
lish, and many more rendered their country good service.
William, the fourth and last Earl, forfeited the lands, and
perished on the scaffold for the part he played in the rebellion
of 1745. These were again restored to his son, Lord Boyd,
in 1752, but were afterwards sold to the Earl of Glen-
cairn. The Glencairn family died out in 1796, The lands

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARXOCK. 101

were then, or previous to that event, purchased by a Miss
Scott, who became Duchess of Portland. They now belong
to her descendant, the Duke.

Leaving the courtyard of the Castle, I passed through a
kind of farm-yard and marched down a little avenue to the
sonorous notes of a chained mastiff that barked until I was
out of sight. Arriving in the roadway I found myself at a
little bridge, and near to the spot where the Borland and
Craufurdland unite and form the Kilmarnock water. The
scene is possessed of much sylvan beauty. The Craufurdland
dashes itself into foam as it dances down its rocky bed to
wed itself to its more placid mate that murmurs round its
perverted course as if anticipating the embrace.

Holding along the bank of the Borland, I passed near to
the edge of Dean Quarry — an excavation sometime abandoned,
and now filled with water. Arriving at a kind of glen where
the streamlet is crossed by a bridge, I deviated into a bypath,
ascended Assloss brae, and on past the farm and mansion-house
of that name. On the face of the brae I leaned over a fence and
looked down upon Dean Castle, and through the valley that
lies before it, upon the town in the distance and the hills of
Craigie in the background. In this scene the past and the
present are beautifully blended. The old ruin represents
feudalism and the doggish systems of the past; the busy
town beyond, with its schools and churches, its workshops
and factories, represents the present progressive system of
society, and shows what can be attained when a people are
unfettered by absurd laws and restrictions. The spot is well
•worth a visit, the view of the town being good — perhaps the
best to be had in the district.

In Assloss farmyard there are the remains of a fortlet,
supposed to have been erected by a Jacob Auchinloss, who
received a charter of the land of that ilk from Queen Mary
in 1543. His descendants occupied the estate for a length-
ened period. The family were of no great influence, but they
are now extinct. The present proprietor (Miss Parker) is
a descendant of the family of John Glen, merchant in Kil-
marnock, who obtained the lands by purchase in 1725. The
mansion-house is delightfully situated on the top of a thickly
•wooded bank overlooking the Borland water.

Pacing along the secluded highway, I drank in with open

102 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARXOCK.

eyes and ears the glorious sights and sounds of nature. The
hum of the treasure-ladened hee smote my ear as I paused
now and again to listen to the rich melody of a lark that ap-
peared like a speck in the sky, for

" Wild was the lay and loud,

Far in the downy cloud
Love gave it energy, love gave it birth."

I enjoyed its song ; in fact, it had such an exhilarating in-
fluence upon me that I tripped lightly on my way and soon
arrived in Craufurdland road, and in an amazingly short time
at the gate of the beautifully wooded grounds which surround
Craufurdland Castle, the seat of the Craufurds, but at present
the residence of Alex. Cochrane, Esq., merchant, Glasgow.
I walked along the carriage drive under the leafy shade of
trees through whose umbrageous foliage as through a leafy
screen I espied glimpses of the deep blue summer sky. The
walk was a pleasant one, but it was doubly so when I rounded
a turn and beheld the castle before me. It stands 011 the top
of a gently rising bank, and is surrounded by scenery dis-
tinguished for its sylvan beauty. The building is large and
commodious. The right wing has the appearance of consider-
able antiquity — in fact, it is said to have been built " prior to
the days of William the Conqueror," and originally was a
strongly-fortified square tower. There have been several ad-
ditions made to this tower, which have to all appearance been
erected at different periods ; but, nevertheless they agreeably
harmonise. The centre portion was erected by the late
"\Villiam llouison Craufurd, Esq., and is a beautiful specimen
of Gothic architecture.

Many of my readers will have sunny memories of Glen
Saturday (the third Saturday of April) and Craufurdland
Castle. On that day it was and still is customary for the
children of the town to go in droves to the castle to gather
" glens" — as they term the yellow daffodils that grow in great
abundance on a lawn behind the mansion. The late Mrs,
Craufurd of Craufurdland delighted to welcome the little
people, and to load them with bouquets of the coveted
flowers. None were sent away empty handed, the crop being
often so abundant that hundreds more could be supplied

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. 103

While viewing this ancient residence a gentleman ap-
proached me from the castle, and in the most kind and affable
manner enquired if he could do anything to oblige me. Stating
the purport of my visit he kindly pointed out the ancient and
modern portions of the building, and other objects of interest
connected with it ; then, bowing, took leave, and left me to
meditate and view the place at my leisure.

The Craufurds of Craufurdland trace their descent from a
person named Sir Reginald de Craufurd, who was Sheriff of
Ayr during the early part of the thirteenth century. He
married the heiress of Loudoun. The first "Laird" was a grand-
soil of Sir Eeginald's, and flourished in the reign of Alexander
II., King of Scotland.

Among the Craufurds there were several who were not
afraid to uusheath the sword in defence of national rights and
liberties. In 1297 a James Craufurd of Craufurdland followed
the valiant Sir William Wallace, and assisted to wrench our
native land from the grasp of the invader. Other members of
the family distinguished themselves in battle, and one (John
Craufurd) fell on the disastrous field of Flodden in 1513. For
a long period a feud existed between the Mures of Rowallan
and the Craufurds of Craufurdland, which was carried on with
considerable bitterness by the respective barons. The Crau-
furdland estate at one period nearly became lost to the family
by the eccentric conduct of John Walkinshaw Craufurd.
Paterson, referring to this member of the family, says that he
" early entered the army. In August, 1761, he was appointed
Falconer to the King for Scotland. He wag an intimate
friend of the unfortunate Earl of Kilmarnock, who suffered
with others for the attempt to restore the house of Stuart.
He attended him to the scaffold, and, it is said, held a corner
of the cloth to receive his head ; he afterwards performed the
last sad office of friendship by getting him interred. For the
public exhibition he then made he was put to the bottom of
the army list. He rose to be major — commandant of the llth
Regiment of Foot, and latterly to the rank of lieutenant-colonel
in the array. He was present at the battles of Dettingen and
Fontenoy, where he distinguished himself, He died at Edin-
burgh, unmarried, aged 72, Feb. 1793, settling his estate, by
a deed made on his deathbed, upon Thomas Coutts, banker in
London. His aunt and nearest heir (Elizabeth Craufurd),

104 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

however, instituted an action of reduction of this settlement,
and after a long litigation, carried on by her and her successor,
the deed was reduced by a decree of the House of Lords in
1806, by which the succession to this ancient estate returned
into its natural channel." Passing in front of the castle, I
entered a carriage drive that winds through a thickly wooded
portion of the estate. The trees on each side intertwined
their branches and formed as it were a triumphal arch of green
boughs. Strolling beneath the leafy shade, I passed on my
left a beautiful sheet of water on whose bosom several snow-
white swans glided gracefully along. In winter the " roaring
game" is carried on with great spirit upon its frozen surface,
and the stillness which usually pervades the scene is then
broken by loud voices and merry peals of laughter, which
" viewless echo" takes up and reiterates again and again.

Arriving at the termination of the shady path, I passed
through a gateway and entered a rustic road. Turning to
the right, a short walk brought me to Craufurdland bridge,
a plain one-arched structure, in the vicinity of which the
scenery is remarkable for its picturesque loveliness — so much
so, indeed, that the muse of the poet has been awakened by
it, and the painter and photographer have celebrated it by
their art. The stream which the bridge spans is called
Craufurdland water. It takes its rise in the moors beyond
Fenwick, and to use the words of Burns —

" Whyles owre the linn the burnie plays,

As through the glen it wimples ;
Whyles round a rocky scaur it strays,
Whyles in a wiel it dimples ; "

until it bickers down the rocky declivity at Dean Castle.
Entering a private road that leads to the residence of Captain
Picken, I passed through a " slap " and held along the bank
of the streamlet, which was swollen by recent rains, and as
it poured its mossy flood along it dashed its waters against
fragments of rock that impeded its progress, as if peevish at
the obstruction. The scenery was very pleasing, but walking
was rendered toilsome by the moist, clayey nature of the soil,
and at every step I sank ankle-deep in mire. Struggling
onward for more than a mile, consoling myself with the
thought that bad roads like bad fortune were probationary

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

105

and possessed of no great duration, I arrived at an old cart-
road on the face of a hill, and having entered it found more
solid footing. A short walk brought me to the farm of
Dalreath, and having passed it a* sharp downhill pedestrian
feat landed me at a rickety wooden bridge spanning the
Craufurdland. Crossing it I beheld at a short distance the
farm of Midland, a spot that reminded me I was treading on
ground once trod by the sons of the Covenant, Avho thought
it better to surfer and die than that tyranny should reign.

After lingering awhile on the bank of the Craufurdland I
struck into a disused cart-track, and directed my steps to
Low Fenwick, an ancient but unassuming hamlet that tops
the rising ground to the west.

CHAPTER VII.

Low Fenwick — Old John Kirkland— "The Kirk-town" — The erection of
the Parish and origin of the name — The Parish Church and Burying-
Ground— The Rev. William Guthrie— The Burial Place of the
Howies— Captain Paton.

ARRIVING at a bridge spanning the Fenwick water I crossed
over, passed up the " waterslap," and entered the highway
between Kilmarnock and Glasgow. On each side of
it, forming a kind of street, stands Low Fenwick, which
for the most part consists of a few primitive-like one-storeyed
houses. Besides these there are a few modern erections of
the plainest architecture, the most noteworthy of which is
the mansion of Mr. John Graham, a gentleman connected
with a banking firm in Glasgow. The place being isolated
and possessed of neither " kirk nor market, mill nor smithy,"
it is entirely unprogressive. The inhabitants are mostly
engaged in weaving and agricultural pursuits ; work at the
former is very difficult to obtain, and wretchedly remunerated
•when it is procured.

Mr. John Kirkland, a minor poet, is a native and a resident
of Low Fenwick. This venerable bard has wooed the muse
for well nigh half a century, and; like some of Scotland's
great song writers, though bred to the loom, poesy has been
to him an oasis from which he has drawn pleasure and solace
in many a lone hour. He was a contributor to The Ayrshire
Inspirer and other publications, but since age and its attend-
ant infirmities have began to tell on him his harp has been
somewhat neglected. Perhaps it may not be out of place to
append a few verses from his pen, therefore I make the
following brief extract from a long poem, entitled

AN OLD MAN'S ADDRESS TO THE MOON.

" Hail, lovely orb of tranquil light,
Whose soften'd radiance makes the night

Seem fairer than the day;
Before thy presence in the sky
The stars and planets fade and die,
Their glory melts awa\.

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. 107

Vain of thy charms the sky we view —
Unfolds her ample field of blue

Thy beauty to display;
With youth immortal on thy brow,
And queenly mien and grandeur thou

Rejoicest on thy way.

No frailty with increasing years,
But fresh and vigorous thou appears,

As when the Almighty's finger
First touch'd thee into being bright,
And filled thy lamp with quenchless light —

Nor dost thou pause or linger."
******

Passing through Low Fenwick, a walk of half-a-mile brought
me to High Fenwick, or as it is more commonly called " the
Kirk-town." It is situated on the Glasgow road, four miles
north-east of Kilmarnock, and consists of a respectable street
and a number of lowly cottages that cluster round its quaint
but highly interesting parish church, which stands in a
hollow a short distance from the highway. It has a popu-
lation of 4G9. Its trade is very meagre, and consists of
handloom weaving and such crafts as are incidental to all
rural villages where the scream of the locomotive whistle is
unheard, and where the inhabitants retain much of the rustic
artlessness of their forefathers. Besides an inn and several
public-houses, the place though small contains no less than
three churches. The first — a large building belonging to the
TJ.P. body, and erected in 1830 — I passed on my right as I
entered the village, and the second — a small structure erected
in 1844, and inscribed "The Guthrie Church" — I found
situated next to the inn and nearly opposite a lane leading
down to the real Guthrie Church, for evidently the title
conferred by the Free Church body upon their little taber-
nacle is a misnomer, the parish church being the Guthrie
Church proper, the eminent divine of that name having
laboured in it for twenty years.

Previous to 1642 the parish of Fenwick was included in
that of Kilmarnock. Upon the disjunction it was termed
New Kilmarnock, but Fenwick — which according to Chalmers
is a word of Anglo-Saxon origin and signifies the village of
the fen or marsh — being the name of the first-mentioned
hamlet, the inhabitants persisted in calling the parish by

108 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

the same cognomen, and in course of time the appellation,
which is appropriately descriptive of the boggy nature of the
greater portion of its soil, came to be universally recognised.

The year after the erection of the parish of Fenwick its
celebrated church -was built. Houses gradually sprang up
around it, and the Kirk-town, although comparatively modern,
has become the parochial centre of commerce and divinity,
but there is nothing of interest connected with its history
beyond what is purely ecclesiastical.

After straying through the quiet village I turned down a
lane and soon arrived at the gate of the little burying-ground
that surrounds the parish church. Finding it unfastened, I
opened a rusty leaf and entered, and as it closed with a clank
behind me I felt as if the world was shut out, and I,

" Far from the madding crowd's ignoble strife,"

left in solitude to muse upon the sons of the Covenant — the
bold, undisciplined peasantry who buckled on the sword for
conscience sake and battled to the death against tyrannical
diction.

The church is a low-roofed, old-fashioned-like building,
with a small steeple or belfry. By its side the juggs still
dangle at the end of an iron chain. They consist of a hinged
circular iron collar about six inches in diameter, and were
used in the olden time to punish individuals guilty of petty
offences. The collar was padlocked round the neck of the
culprit, and he or she was left to be stared and jeered
at by every passer by for a given number of hours.
The punishment was much dreaded. The interior of
the church — into which I had the good fortune to obtain
admittance — is neat and comfortably seated, and contains
three small galleries, the fronts of which are of carved oak.
The pulpit, which is also of oak, is the same in which the
eminent William Guthrie, first minister of the parish,
preached, and on this account is greatly prized. By its side.
on an iron stand, there is a half-hour sand glass. Preaching
by the sand glass is a very ancient custom, and one that is
still observed in this little church. "When the minister
begins his discourse the beadle turns it, and a glass to a glass
and a half is considered to be sufficient for a sermon. The
second turning gives the speaker a hint to draw his remarks

RAMBLES ROUN'D KILMARNOCK. 109

to a close. The church was erected in 1643. Its site is said
to have been chosen by the Rev. William Guthrie and a
number of the parishioners, and it is recorded that he preached
in it before it was finished, so anxious was he to begin his
labours. Near to the church and opposite the gate there is a
handsome tombstone to the. memory of this distinguished
divine. It bears tbe following inscription : — " In memory of
the Rev. William Guthrie, first minister of this parish, and
author of The Christian's Great Interest. Born, 1620;
ordained, 1644. Ejected by prelatic persecution, 1664; worn
out by labours and sufferings, he died, 1665, and was interred
in the church of Brechin. His active and self-denying
ministry, through the Divine blessing, produced a deep and
lasting impression. This stone is erected, 1854, as a token
of gratitude by the Christian public.

'With heavenly weapons I have fought

The battles of the Lord;
Finish'd my course, and kept the faith,
Depending on His word.' "

The Rev. William Guthrie was a native of Angus, and the
eldest son of the laird of Pit forth y. He studied philosophy
at St. Andrews University, and took the degree of Master of
Arts. After this he studied divinity under the famous
Samuel Rutherford, arid was licensed to preach. In order
that worldly cares would not interfere with the ministry to
\vhich he had dedicated himself, he handed over his right of
succession to the family estate to a younger brother, and
energetically applied himself to his profession. He was for
some time tutor to Lord Mauchline, eldest son of the Earl of
Loudoun, and while in that position he preached on a pre-
paration day in Galston. Several people from Fenwick being
present, they were so taken with his forcible style that they
resolved to induce him to become their minister. He accepted
the call, but the difficulties he had to contend with in the
new parish at first was most disheartening. Many of the
parishioners had accustomed themselves to loiter about the
fields, or pass the Sabbath shooting, fishing, or playing at
games. Some would not be spoken to, and others refused
him admittance into their houses, but being a man of tiict he
tried stratagem, and was ultimately successful in gaining
their confidence and making a change in their morals. He

110 RAMBLES ROUND K1LMARNOCK.

very often disguised himself as a traveller, and called
at the houses of the most profane and careless in the
dusk of evening, and begged a night's lodging. If
admit/ted he tried to make himself agreeable by telling
racy stories and engaging in general amusing conversation,
and gradually introduced subjects of a more weighty nature.
I3y this means he procured the attendance of the most
obstinate, and endeared himself to the people of the parish.
As time went on, Mr. Guthrie's fame spread, and he came to
be a most popular and successful preacher. People came from
Glasgow, Paisley, Hamilton, Lanark, Kilbride, Glassford,
Strathaven, Xewmilns, and many other places to hear his
eloquence. It was the practice for such to come on Saturday
and spend the greater part of the night in prayer and conver-
sation, attend public worship on the Sabbath, dedicate the
whole day to religious exercises, and go home on Monday —
" travelling," says his biographer, " ten, twelve, or twenty
miles, without grudging in the least the long way, or
the want of sleep and other refreshments. K either did they
find themselves the less prepared for any other business
through the week." Such popularity did not go unnoticed,
and although by the influence of Chancellor Glencairn and
the Earl of Eglinton he had been allowed to occupy the
church for four years after the restoration, the Archbishop of
Glasgow determined to suspend him. The curate of Calder
was nominated to serve the notice. He arrived in Fenwick
with a dozen soldiers, and having delivered a short address
and declared the church vacant, started on his homeward
journey. Woodrow says: — "I am well assured he never
preached any more after he left Fenwick; he reached Glasgow,
but it is not certain if he reached Calder, though but four
miles from Glasgow. However, in a few days he died in
great torment of an iliac passion, and his wife and children
died all in a year or thereby, and none belonging to him were
left." Mr. Guthrie continued in Feu wick for a year after his
suspension, but he never preached more. The death of a
brother called him to Angus to look after the paternal estate
that had again devolved upon him, but when there, he was
seized with a violent disease, and after lingering a short time
died in the 45th year of his age.

There is not another graveyard iu Ayrshire that contains

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARSOCK. Ill

so many mementoes of the persecution as that of Fenwick.
Several who " wandered in deserts, and hid in mountains, and
in dens and caves of the earth," have found a halm for their
sorrow and suffering in the Lethe of death, and slumber for-
getful of their wrongs in this little golgotha. To the north
of the church is the burial place of the Howies of Lochgoin.
There, 'neath a flat stone, lie the remains of James Howie,
who suffered much during the persecution. The rythmical in-
scription the stone bore was obliterated some years ago, and
a prosaic one substituted. Though lengthy it is far in-
ferior in my opinion to the former one. In these matters,
being somewhat of a Conservative, I beg to present the reader
with the old epitaph. It is preserved in the appendix to the
" Life of John Howie," and is somewhat of a curiosity.

" The dust here lies under this stone
Of James Howie, and his son John
These two both lived in Lochgoin
And by Death's power were called to join
This place. The first, November twenty one,
Years sixteen hundred ninety one
The second, aged ninety year
The first of July was brought here
Years seventeen hundred and fifty-five,
For owning truth made fugitive
Their house twelve times, and cattle all
Was robb'd, and fam'ly brought to thrall
All these, before the Revolution
Outlived Zion's friends 'gainst opposition."

" And he said unto me, these are they which came out of
great tribulation." — Eev. vii., 14.

" The voice said cry, What shall I cry ?
All flesh is grass, and so must ly
As flow'er in field with'retli away
So the goodliness of man decay. "

Alongside this stone there is another with a list of names and
dates which covers the remains of other members of the Howie
family. Amongst these moulder all that is mortal of the
gifted author of "The Scots Worthies." The inscription
briefly refers to him as follows : — "Also of his son John, who
lived in Lochgoin, author of the ' Scots Worthies,' and other
publications, who died Jan. 5, A.D., 1793, aged 57 years."
To the east of the church, and close to the side walk, there

112 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

is a handsome monumental tombstone. It bears the device
of a drum and flag, cross swords, etc., and also the
following inscription : — " Sacred to the memory of Captain
John Paton, late of Meadowhead, of this parish, who suffered
martyrdom in the Gras^smarket, Edinburgh, May 9th, 1684.
He was an honour to his country ; on the Continent, at Pent-
land, Drumclog, and Bothwell, his heroic conduct truly
evinced the gallant officer, brave soldier, and true patriot. In
social and domestic life he was an ornament; a pious Christian,
and a faithful witness for truth in opposition to the encroach-
ments of tyrannical and despotic power in Church and State.
The mortal remains of Captain Paton sleep amid the dust of
kindred martyrs, in the Greyfriars Churchyard, Edinburgh.
Near this is the burying-place of his family and descendants.

" Who Antichrist do thus oppose,

And for truth's cause their lives lay down,
Will get the vict'ry o'er their foes,
And gain life's everlasting crown."

Captain Paton was one of the most heroic of the worthies who
suffered during the persecution. His life was an eventful one,
and the closing scene tragic. In early manhood he exchanged
the sickle for the sword, went abroad and joined the army of
Gustavus Adolphus, King of Sweden, and was for some valiant
deed advanced to the post of Captain. His stay abroad is
supposed to have been brief, for in 1645 he was called out to
assist in opposing Montrose's insurrection. He was present
at the battle of Kilsyth, and behaved with great bravery, as
did all the Covenanting leaders ; but nevertheless Montrose's
daring purpose and superior generalship carried the day, and
the little army was driven into a bog. Howie — from whom
I condense — relates the following extraordinary achievement:
— " In this extremity, the Captain, as soon as he got free of
the bog, with sword in hand made the best of his way through
the enemy, till he had got safe to the two Colonels Hacket
and Strachan, who all three rode oif together ; but they had
not gons far till they were encountered by about fifteen of the
enemy, all of whom they killed except two who escaped.
"When they had gone a little farther, they were again attacked
by about thirteen more, and of these they killed ten, so that
only three of them could make their escape. But, upon the
approach of about eleven more, one of the Colonels said, in a

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARXOCK. 113

familiar dialect, ' Johnny, if thou dost not somewhat now,
we are all dead men.' To whom the Captain answered,
' Fear not ; for we will do what we can hefore we either yield
or flee before them.' They killed nine of them, and put
the rest to flight." Making good their retreat, the three friends
separated, and the Captain returned to Fenwick.

The year following this event the Bev. William Guthrie,
accompanied by Captain Paton and a number of friends from
Fenwick, went to Mauchline to meet with a party of
Covenanters who had agreed to celebrate the Lord's Supper.
"When engaged in their devotions, General Middleton and a
company of soldiers surprised them. Middleton ordered his
men to fire into the worshippers, but the Earl of Loudoun,
who was one of the party, begged of him to allow the people
to depart in peace. This he did, but coming upon them the
next day he commenced hostilities, and a skirmish ensued.
In it the Captain is said to have killed eighteen of the enemy.

After joining the expedition to oppose Cromwell's entry
into Scotland, he returned home, settled at Meadowhead, and
married. His life was now peaceful. He sat under the
ministry of the Eev. William •Guthrie, and became a member
of his session, but in November, 1666, being invited to join
the Covenanters of Galloway, who had taken up arms against
Sir James Turner, " he behoved to take the field again, and
commanded a party of horse from Loudoun, Fenwick, and
other places." Having joined others who had collected forces,
they marched to Lanark, renewed the Covenants, and from
thence to Rullion, a place near the Pentland hills. The little
army, numbering some 900, was attacked at this spot by
General Dalziel, who commanded 8000 men. The position
the Covenanters occupied was favourable, and they kept their
assailants successfully at bay for some time, but ultimately
overwhelming numbers forced them to retreat. During the
engagement Captain Paton behaved with great bravery, and
fought hand to hand with Dalziel, who knowing him tried
to take him prisoner. Each fired a pistol at the other. The
Captain observing his ball to " hoop down," supposed the
General to be proof against lead, and with the intention of
breaking the spell slipped a piece of silver in his remaining
pistol. The General observing the movement retreated
behind an attendant to avoid the shot. In this he was

114 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

successful, for when the Captain fired the man fell dead.
Paton was amongst the last to leave the field. Finding him-
self and two horsemen from Fenwick surrounded by the foe,
he cut a way out, and along with them escaped. Dalziel
being still intent upon his capture sent two troopers after
him. As they neared his companions cried, " What will we
do now ]" — " What is the fray V cried the Captain ; " there
are but two of them." Wheeling about he met the foremost
rider, and with a stroke of his s \vord clave his head, then
cried to the other to take his compliments to his master, for
he would not be with him to-night. He afterwards returned
to Meadowhead, but was now a marked man. Hunted from
place to place, and compelled to lurk about the moors, he
had often to make the cold heath his bed. Yet in all his
wanderings and hairbreadth escapes he drew consolation from
his Bible, and from the thought that he would receive an
imperishable reward for his suffering in a life beyond the grave.
After the battles of Drumclog and Both well Bridge, in
which he acted a gallant part, his position, if possible, became
worse, and he turned weary of life and unresistingly allowed
himself to be taken prisoner by five soldiers who visited the
house of Robert Howie in Floack, in the parish of Mearns.
His captors did not know him, and supposing him to be some
old minister they conveyed him towards Kilmarnock. At
Muir Yett, a farm-steading on the Glasgow road, a farmer
standing at his door gave vent to his astonishment at seeing
the Captain in custody by exclaiming, "Alas ! Captain Paton,
are you there ]" The soldiers thus learning his identity well
knew the value of their prize. On being conveyed to Edinburgh
he was met by Dalziel, who remarked that he was both glad
and sorry to see him. " John," said he, " if I had met you
on the way before you came hither I should have set you at
liberty, but now it is too late. But be not afraid, I will
write to his Majesty for your life." — " You will not be heard,"
replied the Captain. — " Will I not ?" said Dalziel vehemently.
" If he does not grant me the life of one man I shall never
draw, sword for him again." Dalziel kept his word, petitioned
the King, and obtained a reprieve ; but the document having
to pass through the hands of Paterson, Bishop of Edinburgh,
it was designedly delayed until the sentence passed on the
Captain had been put into execution.

CHAPTER VIII.

The Churchyard continued — John Fulton — King's Well — Lochgoin : its
Traditions and Relics — Duntan Cove — Back to Kilmarnock.

" By yon rudely-lettered stone,

In the auld kirkyard,
Bend thy spirit's holiest tone,

In the auld kirkyard;
Where the long'grass rankly waves
O'er the holy martyrs' fgraves,
Pour the solemn meed it craves,

In the auld kirkyard. "

Following the advice of the poet, I strayed among the
grass-covered mounds in quest of less assuming mementoes of
persecuting times. The first of these I met with was a plain
upright slab bearing the following inscription : — " Here lies
the body of James White, who was shot to death at Little
Blackwood by Peter Inglis and his party. 1685.

' This martyr was by Peter Inglis shot,
By birth a tiger rather than a Scot;
Who, that his monstrous extract might be seen,
Cut off his head, and kick'd it o'er the green.
Thus was that head, which was to wear a crown,
A football made by a profane dragoon.' "

James White was one of twelve men who met one night
for prayer and religious conversation in Little Blackwood, a
farm-house on the estate of Grougar, a mile and a half to the
east of Fenwick. Being surprised by a party of soldiers
commanded by one Inglis, they entered the spence, but
White, who was possessed of a firelock, the only weapon of
the kind in the house, stationed himself in the lobby between
the front and back doors, and when the soldiers appeared he
fired. Unfortunately for him his gun burned priming, and
the light thus occasioned revealed his person to the enemy,

116 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

who poured in a volley and shot him dead on the spot. Two
of his friends escaped through a hole in the thatch, and one
named Gemmell in the darkness ran into the arms of a soldier,
who laid hold of him. Gemmell being a powerful man
dashed his opponent to the ground, but being dragged with
him a dreadful struggle ensued to obtain the mastery. Find-
ing himself overmatched, the soldier drew his bayonet with
the intention of ridding himself of his antagonist, but
Gemmell wrenched it from him and buried the weapon in
its owner's body. Freeing himself from the quivering grasp
of his foe he started to his feet and made off, but his
flight was abruptly stopped by a sentinel. Rushing at the
man he knocked him down with a well-directed blow, and
before the prostrate son of Mars could gather himself up he
dashed into the darkness and escaped. The cries of the
wounded soldier brought his companions, who finding him
writhing in agony lifted him up, conveyed him into the
house, and threw him into a bed among three little children,
who were terrified at his bloody appearance and the unusual
scene enacting before them. The fugitives along with the
master and mistress of the house, who had sought refuge in
the room, durst not leave lest they might be murdered, but
the good woman hearing the voice of Inglis recognised it,
and implored him for the love of God to give them quarter.
With an oath he asked who she was that knew his name.
She replied that she was the daughter of William Wylie of
Darwhilling, in whose house he with others had been quar-
tered for six months some years previous. Sending her soul
to perdition, he ordered her to come out. Obeying, he told
her that owing to the kindness he had met with at the hands
of her father he would grant her friends quarter on condition
that they would crawl out of the room on their knees. This
they consented to do, and having approached the tyrant in
the humiliating position submitted to be bound, and while
thus rendered helpless one of their number was deliberately
stabbed in the thigh by a soldier who carried a fixed bayonet.
This piece of brutality Inglis passionately rebuked, and cursed
the man for inflicting a wound upon a prisoner to whom he
had given quarter. Having secured their victims, the soldiers
next set about plundering the house, which they did so
effectually that they did not leave " so much as a spoon or

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. 117

the worth of it" behind them ; and to consummate the whole
one of the band — whom Sir Walter Scott, who was no great
admirer of the Covenanters, has described as " a monster " —
chopped the head off the corpse of White with an axe, and
conveyed it to Newrnilns, where it was used the next day as
a kickball on the public green.

Close to the spot where the ashes of James White repose
are the graves of three of Lieutenant Ivisbet's victims. The
spots are marked by simple, rudely-carved slabs, and bear
the following inscriptions : —

" Here lies the dust of John Fergushill and George
Woodburn, who were shot at Midland by !Nisbet and his
party. 1685.

' "When bloody prelates, once these nations' pest,
Contrived that cursed self-contradicting test,
These men for Christ did suffer martyrdom,
And here their dust lies waiting till He come.'

Eenewed by subscription 1829."

n.

" Here lyes the corpse of Peter Gemmell, who was shot by
K"isbet and his party, anno 1685, for bearing his faithful
testimony to the cause of Christ. Aged 21 years.

' This man, like holy anchorites of old,
For conscience sake was thrust from house and hold;
Bloodthirsty red-coats cut his prayers short,
And even his dying groans were made their sport.
Ah, Scotland! breach of solemn vows repent,
Or bloody crimes will bring thy punishment.' "

It was on a Saturday evening in November, 1685, that the
sons of the Covenant mentioned in the above inscriptions
met in the old farm-house of Midland, which stood in the
vicinity of the village, a short distance from where the modern
house and offices now stand. They along Avith John Nisbet
of Hardhill were engaged in devotional exercises when a party
of dragoons commanded by Lieutenant Kisbet were observed
approaching the, house. Escape being impossible, the wor-

118 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

shippers set about concealing themselves, and at the same
time agreeing in the event of discovery to resist capture as
they best could, for they well knew that if they fell into the
hands of the soldiery in all probability they would be put to
death — an Act being then in. force which made it a capital
offence to be present at a conventicle. The troop drew up in
the farmyard, and made a formal examination of the premises,
and lingered about for an hour without suspecting that the
prey they were in search of was so near at hand. . When
riding away they were met by two individuals, one of whom
jeeringly cried, " You are guid seekers but ill finders." Acting
upon this hint they returned and renewed the search, which
resulted in the finding of the fugitives. Being armed; the
wanderers fired three shots upon their assailants, and in
return received twenty-four, which seemingly did little
damage, for they rushed from their concealment and with
clubbed guns closed with the foe. The struggle was fierce,
and although the dragoons evinced much firmness they had
to recede before the desperate men, and ultimately, finding
that they could not prevail, a cry was raised amongst them
to fire the house. Retreating to the outside of the building,
they were closely followed by the four heroes who thus far
had bravely defended themselves ; but their success was of
"brief duration, for Nisbet of Hardhill, who had received six
\vounds, became weak, and he and his friend were soon over-
powered, disarmed, and taken prisoners. Gemmell,Woodburn,
and Fergushill were taken into a field about a stone-throw
from the house and shot (the spot is still pointed out), but
Hardhill was too valuable a prisoner to be despatched so
hastily, the Council having offered a reward of 3000 merks
for his apprehension. With their prisoner the Government
butchers rode to Kilmarnock and lodged him in the, Tolbooth.
Thence he was conveyed to Ayr, and from Ayr to Edinburgh,
where after a short imprisonment and hurried trial he was
sentenced to be taken to the Grassmarket and executed, and
his "lands, goods, and gear to be forfeited to the King's use."
He suffered on the 4th of December, 1685, appearing on the
scaffold " with a great deal of courage and Christian com-
posure, and dying in much assurance and with a joy which
pone of his persecutors could intermeddle with."

Woodburn was tenant of Loudoun Mains, a farm about a

RAMBLES ROU1ST) KILMARXOCK. 1 1 9

mile and a half north-west of Newruilns. He was at the
Battle of Drumclog, and for that was a marked man, and
from it to the day of his death he was nearly always in
hiding. Upon one occasion a dozen troopers who were in
search of him came to the Mains, and after fruitlessly
examining the premises left, but when a short distance from
the house one of the number returned and strictly charged
the guidwife to tell George to cover himself better the next
time he hid, for he had seen one of his feet sticking through
the straw. This traditionary anecdote infers that the callous-
ness ascribed to the soldiery was not so general as some
writers would have us believe. Woodburu's descendants
still occupy the Mains, and a very interesting heirloom in
the family is the martyr's sword, an " Andrea Ferara," forty
and a half inches long. It is a piece of excellent steel : lately
the point was bent to the hilt, and when released sprang back
to its wonted straightness.

Peter Gemmell, whom the second stone commemorates,
was an ancestor of the mother of Eobert Pollock, author of
the " Course of Time," and doubtless this fact suggested to
her gifted son the pleasing covenanting tale entitled " Ralph
Gemmell."

When nearing the churchyard gate I observed a stone in-
dented in the wall to the memory of Robert Buntine and
James Blackwood, natives of Fenwick, Avho were executed for
taking part in the rising at Pentland. Buntine was hanged
with two others at Glasgow on the 19th December, 1666, and
Blackwood passed through the same ordeal at Irvine on the
3]st of the same month and year, along with another man
named M'Coul. AVooctrow states that the two latter were
visited a few days before their execution by Alexander Nisbet
• — the commentator on Ecclesiastes — who found them much
cast down ; but he cheered and instructed them so in the way
of salvation, that " when the day of execution came, they died
full of joy and courage, to the admiration of all who were
witnesses."

As I passed through the gate of the churchyard into the
roadway I thought of the dark days of the Covenant, and of
Scotland's noble sons who died for conscience sake, and
upheld a great principle during a critical period of our country's
history. They fanned the smouldering embers of liberty,

120 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

they broke up the clods of oppression, and battled for freedom
to the death. Yea,

" Their hearts were firm, and nobly strong,
To trample under every wrong ;
And stamp, in God's eternal page,
Their fierce contempt for despot's rage.
Peace to their ashes ! honour'd dust !
Sleep on, ye noble slumbering just !"

Strolling into Spout-mouth, I stopped before the humble
cottage wherein dwelt John Fulton (born 1800, died 1853),
the well-known self-taught astronomer. This remarkable
genius, who was a working shoemaker, conceived the idea of
constructing a mechanical illustration of the structure and
movement of the Solar System, and under difficulties that
would have disheartened the most sanguine enthusiast, pro-
duced his famed Orrery, a greatly admired piece of mechanism,
to the construction of which for ten years ho devoted his
leisure hours. It is now located in the West End Park
Museum, Glasgow, and consists of a central frame of move-
ments which cover the orbicular revolutions of the planets,
and of the secondary train that controls the axle rotation, and
preserves all the relations both to the sun as centre of the
system, and to the moon and satellites connected with them.
This mechanical arrangement comprises all that had been
discovered in his day, with the exception of some small
planetary bodies between Mars and Venus. The whole is
worked by over two hundred movements, and so admirably
adjusted that motion is given with the greatest facility. From
Spout-mouth I directed my steps to the highway, and en-
tered the village inn to rest and indulge in a refreshment
before starting on a pilgrimage to Lochgoin, for it had been
part of my plan at the outset to visit the secluded dwell-
ing of the Howies. Doing ample justice to the viands
which the lady at my request placed before me,
I started on my viarian excursion with renewed vigour, al-
though I fain would have lingered about the isolated hamlet
somewhat longer, but had no time to lose, for the day was
wearing through the afternoon, and I well knew that its
beauties would soon be on the wane.

From the village of Fenwick Glasgow road rises steadily
over a gradual ascent that attains a height of some 700 feet

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARKOCK. 121

above the level of the sea. It is very picturesque, is lined on
either side with neatly-trimmed hedges, and skirted for about
three miles by cultivated fields, many of which of late years
have been reclaimed by drainage from the bleak moorland
that at one time stretched in swampy sterility almost to the
village. Beyond that distance the soil gradually loses its
fertile appearance, vegetation becomes more stinted, and ulti-
mately on each side of the road a dreary, marshy, barren,
trackless waste, dotted here and there by moorland
farm-steadings, stretches far beyond the range of vision. But
to return. As I plodded onward, listening to the me-
lodious notes of the lark, and to the humble hedge-sparrow
chirping forth an accompaniment, I paused now and again
to contemplate the beauties of Nature, and scent the sweet
aroma that floated on the breeze. While thus engaged, the
rumbling of wheels smote my ear. Turning round I observed
a horse and cart approaching, and in the driver recognised an
honest country chiel' whose acquaintance I had made in the
village inn. He recognised me and kindly offered me a lift
on the road. I was soon seated beside him, and found him
to be most inquisitive ; but, notwithstanding this, a very
agreeable companion — in fact, one well acquainted with
the district through which we were passing, and not
slow to communicate all he knew about it. He was curious to
know who I was, and what business brought me so far
from town, but to each of his queries I gave evasive
answers. Not being satisfied, he got on to a new tack, and
enquired if I belonged to Kilmarnock. I replied that I did
not. " Then," said he, " you'll belang here awa some place."
I assured him Ayrshire was not the place of my nativity,
" but since you are so anxious to know, I beg to inform
you that I am a Cosmopolitan." " A Cosmo what 1"
he enquired in amazement. Eepeating the word more dis-
tinctly, with a perplexedly puzzled look he exclaimed — "Man,
I thocht ye were a foreigner o' some kind !" At this I
laughed heartily, for it was evident by his stoical gaze that he
did nqt comprehend the meaning of the term. Apologising
for my rudeness, a brief explanation made him aware that the
goal of my journey was Lochgoin, and its object an examina-
tion of the covenanting relics in the possession of the Howies.
This so pleased him that he began to speak of that family, and

122 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

of matters connected with the district through which we were
passing, and seemed well acquainted with its lore, and not
unqualified to relate its gossip and traditions. Remarking
the probability of the moor being the scene of many a well-
authenticated tradition, he said everything connected with the
Covenanters had been carefully collected ; but several tra-
ditions of dark deeds which had been perpetrated in the moss
were locally popular. " For instance," said he, " pointing to
a hollow part of the morass, " that inosshag owre there wa3
counted no canny langsyne." " What was the reason of that V
said I. " Because the body o' a sodger who was robbed and
murdered was drawn out o't — the moss refused to conceal the
awfu' crime," he replied, in a solemn manner. " I'll tell you
how it was," he continued, " for I have heard the story often.
A sodger used to travel this road frae Glasco' to Ayr wi' the
siller to pay the troops stationed there. The last time he was
seen alive was at King's Well, where he exchanged civilities wi'
some folk about the door o' the auld inn. Not reaching his
destination, a strict search was made for him, but nae tidings
o' his whereabouts could be obtained. His horse, however,
was found a short distance frae here, but the beast bore nae
marks to lead to the supposition that the rider had met wi'
foul play. His disappearance was a mystery, and many con-
jectures were formed about it at the time. Some said that he
cut aff wi' the siller ; while others affirmed that the siller had
been the cause o' his death. Murder, they say, winna hide,
and this ane came to light in a very extraordinary manner.
Somebody had been crossin' the moss at the place I showed
you, an' were horrified to see the hand o' a man stickin' up
through the bog. Assistance being procured the body was
dragged out, and from its appearance it was evident that a
fearful struggle had ta'eu place before he yielded his life.
Suspicion fell upon a cottar body, frae the circumstance that
he had become suddenly weel-to-do. The authorities appre-
hended him, an' ta't-n him to Ayr, where he was tried for the
murder ; but the evidence being defective, they couldna con-
vict him, an' he was acquitted. He returned to Finnick an'

took the farm of . It stauns aff the Glasco road — ye

nae doubt noticed it as ye entered the village. The descendants
of the supposed murderer still occupy the place and are very
decent folk." My friend proving excellent company, I kept

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. 123

the conversation in the right groove, and he rattled away at
the story telling to his satisfaction and my amusement. " See
yon house yonder," said he. pointing in the direction with his
whip ; " it's niaist a ruin, but was ance a farm-steading. A
near-listed body o' a farmer leeved in't ; but, my certie, he
was nicely ta'en to the fair by a sodger." " How did that
happen V I enquired. " Weel, ye see, he hained his meal ae
dear year an' selt it at a famine price — for, as I heard my
mother say, it was baith scarce and bad. But this is the way
the thing happened. A poor woman came- to him ae day to
buy meal for her family, but when she was about to pay for
it, she found hersel' a shillin' short o' the amount; an' though
she begged hard for credit, yet the farmer was deaf to her en-
treaties, an' said that he maun either hae his meal or the
shillin'. A sodger travelling to Kilmarnock happened to be at
hand, and takin' pity on the puir body, he asked the farmer
how muckle she was short. 'Just a shillin',' said he. 'Then,
said the sodger, * here's ane in the king's name.' The farmer
took it and gied the woman the meal, wha, after thankin' the
sodger, gaed hame to her bairns. The sodger continued his
journey, but returned the next day wi' twa companions, and
marched the farmer aff to Kilmarnock, where he had to pay
the smart, having learned to his cost that caution's needfu'
when dealin' wi' recruitin' sergeants."

With such tales as these my companion whiled away the
time until we arrived at King's Well, where he stopped to
water his horse at a trough by the wayside. Here I took
leave of him, and crossed over to an old building, at one time
a noted hostelry and a favourite halting place between Kil-
marnock and Glasgow in the days of stage-coaches ; but

"Thither no more the peasant shall repair
To sweet oblivion of his daily care,
No more the farmer's news, the barber's tale,
No more the woodman's ballad shall prevail ;
No more the smith his dusky brow shall clear,
Relax his ponderous strength and lean to hear ;
The host himself no longer shall be found
Careful to see the mantling bliss go round ;
Nor the coy maid, half willing to be pressed,
Shall kiss the cup to pass it to the rest, "

124 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

for solemn silence pervades the spot, and the old inn is con-
verted into a quiet farm-house. King's Well Inn was a place
of considerable note for many generations. Before carts
were used in Ayrshire there were no regular roads, and goods
were conveyed from one place to another on the backs of
pack-horses.0 About twenty yards to the south of the old
inn the remains of a pack-horse track can be distinctly traced
for miles across the moor. During the middle of the last
century, and ages before it, it was the highway between.
Glasgow and the west country, and strings of pack-horses
passed along it daily, their drivers stopping at the inn for
refreshments. Behind the old place there is a little spring
called the King's Well, and a short distance from that an
ugly-looking marsh called the King's Stable. Local
tradition explains the origin of both names, and as it is
worth relating, I subjoin it. A fray having taken place
during the reign of one of the James's, the monarch deter-
mined to learn the facts and administer justice personally.
For this purpose he started on a journey to Pathelly Hall, a
baronial residence, some slight remains of which still exist in
the neighbourhood of King's Well. After a long ride over
difficult ground his horse became jaded, and being tired
and hungry he determined to alight at the first
house he came to and satisfy the craving of his royal
stomach. It proved to be a peasant's cottage. Being
more needful than nice, he threw the rein over the horse's
neck and entered. The goodwife received him graciously,
and having learned his desire, set before him scones and
milk, the best and readiest nieal she had in the house. It
was homely fare to place before a king, but royalty was not
so fastidious in those days, and could rough it when necessary.
After resting and eating heartily he gave his hostess a piece
of gold, and was about to depart when she said — " Sir, I ken
ye to be the king, an' I ken what brings ye to this part o' the
country. Oh ! hae mercy on my man." " Who may your

* In 1730 the youthful Earl of Loudoun, having occasion to travel from
Loudoun Castle to Edinburgh, was placed in a pannier slung across the back of a
horse, and, with an attendant mounted on another horse, accomplished the
journey of sixty miles in about seven days. Until the genius of Macadam made
roads passable in wet weather, it was not uncommon for carriages to sink axle-
deep in mud. A good story is told of a man whom a traveller found digging in
the highway between Fenwick and King's Well. Upon being asked what he was
doing, he replied — " I'm houkin for my horse an' cart."

RAMBLES ROU.VD KILMARNOCK. 125

man be ?" he inquired. " He is ane o' the unfortunate men
now lying in the dungeon of Pathelly Ha' awaiting, your
Majestie's pleasure," was the reply. " Being determined to
put down lawless raids in my dominion," said the king, " I
am afraid I cannot interfere with the course of justice."
" Oh, sir," cried the guidwife pleadingly, as she threw herself
at his feet ; " shurely you'll never hang a man after having
eaten his bread an' rested yoursel' in his arm chair." This
appeal was too much for the monarch. He raised the
suppliant to her feet, promised to bear the request in mind,
and proceeded on his journey. When near the inn his horse
stopped at a little spring, out of which it drank — hence the
name King's Well — but proceeded only a short distance after-
wards when it became bogged, and sank in the ugly-looking
marsh already referred to, his Majesty saving himself with
considerable difficulty. Making the best of his way to the
inn, he was met by the landlord, who enquired about his
horse. " It is stabled," replied the monarch jocularly, and
so the swamp retains the name of the King's Stable to this
day. From the inn the King walked to Pathelly Hall. The
same evening he had the prisoners brought before him, and
commenced an examination which resulted in his finding
eighteen of them guilty. These he ordered to be hanged on
a thorn tree, which is still pointed out and looked to from
the circumstance with a kind of superstitious dread. The
husband of his hostess, Avhom he had singled out, was
admonished and dismissed with a caution that if ever he was
found in a like fault all the old wives in Christendom would
not save him from the wuddie.

Observing an elderly dame at the doorway of a cottage
dividing her attention between me and the culinary operation
of scraping a porridge-pot, I asked my way to Lochgoin, and
was kindly conducted by her to a beaten track running zig-
zag through the moss. Pointing across the moor to some
solitary trees about a mile and a half distant, she told me
they grew in the garden of the spot I was in search of, and
whatever I did I was to keep them in sight, " for," said she,
" gin ye loss the foot-road — as maist likely ye will — ye may
wander for hours i' the contra direction." Tendering thanks,
I bade her goodbye and entered the heathy wilderness, deeply
impressed with the bleak desolation, yet wild grandeur of the

126 RAMBLES ROUND EILMARXOOK.

scene. The heather waved in brown luxuriance, and its
bonnie bell was a sweet recompense for the absence of the
wild flowers which Nature strews so profusely over the fields
and by the dusty \Vaysides. Onward and onward I held
along the mossy, heather-fringed path, listening to the varied
sounds which occasionally broke the profound silence that
prevailed. Now the hum of the fogyie or moss bee
would make the air musical ; then the cry of the
peesweep and the whirr and cock-cock of the moorfowl
would be heard as they winged their ajrial flight across the
barren waste.

While thus revelling amid the beauties of Nature and
' musing on the brave men who lurked in these wilds, I
forgot the instructions of the good lady at King's Well, nor
did I think upon them until my progress was stopped by a
broad; deep ditch — a kind of receptacle or main artery of
numerous open drains which intersect the moor, for by this
means large tracks are rendered comparatively dry and
excellent stock reared upon them. The little path
I sought, but it could not be found ; it was lost
and so was I, for heather-clad hills rose on each side of
me, and Lochgoin standing in its solitude, which I beheld a
few minutes before, was nowhere to be seen. Climbing the
nearest height, I again got a glimpse of it, but despairing of
ever finding the track at once struck for the solitary dwelling
in as straight a line as the marshy nature of the soil would
permit of. Travelling now proved both difficult and danger-
ous. Owing to recent rains, pools of black moss water often
proved an insurmountable impediment, and I had to circum-
vent them by the best means possible. Sometimes in leaping
I would miss my mark and go plump over the ankles in.
water ; at other times, when seeking aid from my stick, the
weight of my body would sink it to the handle in the bog —
a circumstance that ofteue'r than once brought me to grief.
Persistent perseverance, however, brought this kind of travel-
ling to an end and I to the spot which I had long been
desirous of seeing.

The present house of Lochgoin is a one-storeyed, slate-
roofed, plain building, internally commodious and well suited
for a moorland farm-steading. It is erected on the site of an
old, and from its associations a very interesting, building.

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARXOCK. 127

On the lintel of the door several dates are inscribed, -which
refer to changes which the family or their dwelling have
undergone. The first of these, 1178, is said to be the year
in which the first of the Howies of Lochgoin took up their
abode in the fastness of the moss. The family tradition has
it that they were two brothers who fled from one of the
"Waldensian valleys to escape persecution. Behind the house
there is a small kailyard which John Howie called his
"garden of herbs." It served as his study, for in a corner
of it, beneath the shelter of a turf dyke, he is said to have
written a considerable part of his " Scots Worthies." To
the south of the house, on the edge of the moor, there is a
cairn which marks the graves of two children Avho died of
the plague in 1665. A party who came from Glasgow, where
it was then raging, divided an apple between, them, which
they had no sooner eaten than symptoms of the disease
manifested itself upon them. The inmates of Lochgoin were
so terrified that they put the children in an outhouse and
fled. One more courageous than the rest returned and handed
food to them through a window on the end of a stick, but
although death in a brief space ended their sufferings, no one
in the locality could be found to give them burial, and an
individual had to be brought from Glasgow to perform the
rite.

Lochgoin stands nine hundred and fourteen feet above the
level of the sea, and commands a magnificent view of the
surrounding country. This circumstance rendered it a safe
resort to the hunted, outlawed supporters of the Covenant in
the days of the persecution. About one hundred yards from
the house there is an artificial eminence which was used
during that critical period to watch for the approach of the
soldiery or other unwelcome visitors, and on several occasions
warning was given by the sentinel stationed upon it to
refugees in time to allow them to escape to the fastness of
the moss, where it was impossible for man or horse to follow.
Being delighted with the wild beauty of the landscape around
the lone habitation, I ascended the mound and rapturously
gazed on the vast expanse of country. Away to the west is
" Auld Kilmarnock" and the romantic district surrounding it
— a district that will be ever dear to my heart, and whose
scenes and associations shall never be eradicated from my

128 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARN'OCK.

mind so long as reason holds its sway or memory its power.
Beyond is a wide expanse of sea, backed by the lofty heights
of Arran, and a little to the west of them, is Ailsa Craig, a
weft-known rugged rock which towers from the deep. To
the west the sterile moor, studded here and there with farm-
steadings, stretches away in barren bleakness. Beyond it the
fertile and richly-wooded district of Loudoun, and the conic
form of Loudoun Hill, near which was fought the memorable
Battle of Drumclog. To the north in the far distance the
eye rests delighted upon the Highland hills, the most promi-
nent of which are Ben Lomond, Ben Voirlich, Ben Ledi, and
Ben Cruachan. But my description is inadequate — the scene
must be seen to lie felt.

From the mound I directed my steps to the door of the
house, and timorously knocked. It was opened by the wife
of the present occupant, who seemingly guessed the purport
of my visit, for she invited me into the kitchen and requested
me to be seated. Telling her that I had rnade a pilgrimage
from Kilmarnock to view the interesting Covenanting relics,
she smilingly expressed the pleasure it gave her to comply
with my wish. " We are aye glad to see strangers," s'aid
she ; " mony folk, baith gentle and simple, come here.
'Deed," she continued, "I think the feck o' the religious
world hae visited Lochgoin to see the bits o' things preserved
in the family — they come frae America an' a' airts. But gae
awa' ben," said she, addressing a boy, " an' bring the drum
but the house." In a short time I had the relics laid before
me, and during a running conversation with my hostess and
other members of the family examined them at my leisure.
They consisted of the Bible and sword of Captain Paton, a
drum and drum-stick which are said to have been at Drum-
clog, and a flag which waved over the same field ; also a
number of silver coins.

Captain Paton's Bible is a small 24mo, dated 1053, and
contains the hero's autograph on the blank side of the title-
page. It is encased in a small box with a glass front, this
precaution being necessary to prevent visitors pilfering the
leaves, several of them being carried away. Curious enough
the book ends with Eev. xii. 11, "And they over-
came him by the blood of the Lamb and by the word of
their testimony ; and they loved not their lives unto

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK, 129

death." On the outside of the cover is the following
inscription : —

" CAPTAIN JOHN PATON'S BIBLE,

WHICH HE GAVE TO HIS WIFE FROM OFF THE

SCAFFOLD WHEN HE WAS EXECUTED FOR

THE CAUSE OF JESUS CHRIST,
AT EDINBURGH, ON THE STH OF MAY, 1684,
JAMES HOWIE RECEIVED IT FROM THE
CAPTAIN'S SON'S DAUGHTER'S HUSBAND,
AND GAVE IT TO JOHN HOWIE, HIS NEPHEW."

The sword is a light, basket-handled, short shabble, twenty-
seven and a half inches long. It is said to contain twenty-
eight gaps or notches, which represent the years of the
persecution, but I saw no trace of them. It is very rusty
and much worn, and altogether in bad condition, and nothing
to compare to the formidable weapon in the possession of
Thomas Rowatt, Esq. of Bonnanhill, Strathaven.

The drum has much the appearance of an extra deep
American cheese-box. The sheepskin still adheres to one
end of it. The frame and fastenings are of the rudest description,
and bear ample traces of home manufacture ; in fact, it is just
such an instrument as a rude peasant with limited tools and
material might be expected to produce. The drum-stick (there
is but one) is neat and possessed of a modern-like appearance.

The flag is six feet in length by five in breadth. It is
supposed to have waved at the Battle of Drumclog, but little
is known regarding it save that it has been in the family
from a very remote period. Repeated washings have sadly
defaced it, but nevertheless it has an antiquated and time-
worn appearance. It bears the following device and inscrip-
tion : — On the left a rude picture of an open Bible, and on
the right the form of a crown and thistle. Beneath is
" Phinick for God, Country, and Covenanted Work of
Reformations."

The silver coins are twenty-two in number ; they are
heavy and not unlike our five-shilling pieces. The earliest
bears the date of 1597, and is inscribed, " Deus fortitude et
spes nostra," i.e., " God is our strength and hope." They are
contained in a small box, and form the greatest curiosity of
the antiquities. Like everything else they have a history,
and it is simply this : — AVhen James Howie, who suffered so
much during the persecution, was fleeing from the approaching
i

130 KAMBLES ROUND KILMAHNOCK.

soldiery he hid his purse in the ground, about fifty yards -
from the house, expecting to find it when his enemies
departed. He never discovered it again, but a man who was
serving about the place was accused of purloining it, and
although he stoutly denied the charge, yet the accusation
stuck to him till the day of his death. Some fifty years ago,
when a son of the author of the "Scots Worthies" was
driving some cows to pasture, the hoof of one slipped
and disclosed something bright. Upon examination it proved
to be a large silver piece. This led to a search, and others
were discovered along with the remains of a purse, which
cleared the mystery and the memory of the guiltless servant.
Besides these relics there is one not less interesting to the
antiquarian, viz., the library, which contains some curious
and rare volumes and pamphlets. Several are from the pen
of the somewhat eccentric author whose writings have made
the remote farm-steading famous.

There is not a vestige left of the old house of Lochgoin.
From age it became so ruinous that it had to be taken down,
but its form and appearance will long be familiar, numerous
sketches and photographs of it being preserved. It was
under its thatch-covered roof that the celebrated John Howie,
author of the "Scots Worthies" and other works of less
note, was born. The event occurred on the 14th November,
1735. His great work was written during the intervals of
labour and in hours snatched from sleep. The first edition
appeared in 1774, and a second, greatly enlarged, in 1785.
The "Scots Worthies" is a work that has long been popular
with all classes of society, and, like the " Pilgrim's Progress,"
it will be treasured by the religious world so long as Presby-
terianism continues to influence the minds of the Scottish
people. John Howie, after an uneventful life distinguished
for its humility and piety, died in the spring of 1793, and is
interred, as already stated, in the churchyard of Fenwick.
In an entry in his diary, written shortly before his death, he
humbly reflects upon the vanities of life, and sums up his
existence in few words. He says — " When I look back upon
my short and despicable life I find it altogether made up of
deficiencies, faults, and imperfections." We may all say
amen to this, for the good we do is the least of our lives.
At the period of the persecution drainage was not practised,

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. 131

and from, its situation Lochgoin was almost inaccessible.
Horsemen could only approach it from the east, and that at
the risk of being bogged, while no foot passenger unless well
acquainted with the locality could reach it from any other
quarter without endangering his life, the bog being so soft
in many places that a dog could not cross it. A situation
like this was invaluable as a place of resort to Cove-
nanters, and to it the utmost vigilance of the dragoons
was naturally directed. Twelve times was the house
plundered, and as often did the inmates escape. The
winter after the rising at Pentland, about twenty persons,
amongst whom was Captain Paton, met one night at Loch-
goin for the purpose of fellowship and godly conversation.
The old man of the house being unwell went to bed, fell
asleep, and dreamed that he saw the troopers approaching.
Wakening, he told the dream to the company, and
advised them to disperse. They did so, but were only a short
time away when the soldiers entered. Upon another occasion
the Captain and several others were sheltering in the house,
and were all but taken prisoners. At the time, a party of
troopers were scouring the country for suspected persons.
Going to Meadowhead they did not meet with anything of a
suspicious nature, and next rode to Croilburn, a seques-
tered house in Fenwick Moor. Being disappointed there
also, they set off to Lochgoin — five men, under the command
of one Sergeant Kae, being sent forward. The night — a stormy
one — favoured their approach uponthe unsuspecting wanderers,
who had been watching the most of the night. At break of
day a man named Woodburn left the house to reconnoitre, but
being more prayerful than watchful he did not observe Rae
and his companions coming stealthily along. He had scarce
returned when the Sergeant presented himself at the door and
cried out, "Dogs, I have found you now." Mrs Howie, sup-
posing he was alone, cried to her friends to " run to the hills
and not be killed in the house." Then running at the intruder
she gave that pompous individual such a push that he went
sprawling on the broad of his back in the mud before the door.
While he was star-gazing in this humiliating and unsoldier-
like position, the fugitives got out and ran into the moor.
Eegaining his feet, he fired his gun ; but one, John Kirk-
laud, stopped in his flight and returned the compli-

132 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

ment, firing so surely that his bullet took off the knot of
hair on the side of the wrathful functionary's head.
Captain Paton and his companions made for Eaglesham
Moor at their utmost speed, pursued by the whole troop.
Two of the Covenanters who were armed brought up the
rear, and kept the troopers in check by now and again firing
upon them. Kirkland, kneeling, aimed so well that he shot
a Highland sergeant through the thigh. This had the effect
of stopping the pursuers and allowing the fugitives to gain
ground. Arriving at the moor of Eaglesham, they caused
the Captain, who was old and not able to keep up with his
companions, to take a route by himself. This he did.
Meeting with a horse in a field he took the liberty to mount
it, and was enabled to get out of the reach of the enemy by
its aid. Meeting with a party of dragoons coming from
Newmilns he saw that flight was useless ; so, making the
best of matters, he rode slowly past them, and got off undis-
covered. The horse being set at liberty returned home
and he concealed himself in one of his lurking places. The
troopers, foiled of their prey, returned to Lochgoin and
set about wrecking and plundering the house. Coniing
upon a Bible, it is said that " they burned it in the fire in a
most audacious manner." They next drove off the cattle, and
left behind a ruined habitation. There are accounts of
many other raids on Lochgoin, but these will suffice to give
the reader some little idea of what brave, unselfish men
suffered in those troublesome times for liberty and truth.

After chatting pleasantly with the inmates of Lochgoin and
listening to several local traditions of the Covenant, I made
known my intention of departing, being desirous of reaching
home before the red streaks of sunset tinged the western sky.
The announcement was met by the kindly request of " rest
you a wee," but that was impossible ; go I must — therefore I
siezed rny hat and stick with the air of a man not to be turned
from his purpose, and after a brief conversation by way of
preface to departure, was accompanied to the door by my
newly-found friends, all of whom urged me to return at an
early date and " hae a crack," especially since a cart road was
made to the very door, and the danger attending the crossing
of the moss had become unnecessary. Thanking them for
their kindness I took my leave, struck through the moss in a

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARXOCK. 133

southerly direction, and after a toilsome journey of a
very long hour reached the farm of Duntan, which stands
close to the bank of a mossy and not unpicturesque streamlet.
On its eastern bank, close to the farm, there is an aperture in
a rocky precipice called Duntan Cove, which afforded shelter
to Covenanters during the troublous times of the persecution.
I with difficulty entered it and found it to be a small natural
cavern capable of accommodating half-a-dozen individuals,
but containing no feature of interest. Often the wanderers
made the Cove their lair, and found shelter within it from the
pitiless storm and the rage of their persecutors. Tradition
tells how two men who ran before a company of troopers for
their very lives dashed through the stream, scaled the rock,
and sought refuge in its bosom ; and how the ruffians rode up
and discharged their carabines into the aperture, believing
that instead of an asylum the fugitives had found a grave, but
it was otherwise. They crouched in the farthest recess and
frustrated the diabolical purpose of their assailants. From
the Cove I strayed along the bank of the stream, and after
passing a number of houses clustering round a wool mill, a
walk of about two miles through a district in which the bleak
moor was gradually blended into fields which spoke of cul-
ture and gave promise of a rich harvest, brought me to Mid-
land, the farm on which three of Lieutenant ^Nisbet's victims
were shot. They lie in loving nearness in Fenwick church-
yard, and of the incidents attending their murder the reader has
already been made acquainted. A little below Midland I crossed
the " Kirk-town" bridge, passed up the lane already noticed,
which runs in the vicinity of the little churchyard wherein
" the martyrs soundly sleep." From High Fenwick a sharp
walk brought me to Laigh Fenwick, where, feeling tired and
exhausted, I entered the house of Agnes Scott, who retails
provisions and a good dram, to rest and partake of refresh-
ment, for walking had become a toil, and the road between
me and my home a matter of serious consideration. However,
it is wonderful what a " wee drap o' the barley bree" can do
when judiciously administered, for I got over the road wonder-
fully, and arrived in Kilmarnock as the shades of night were
closing over the old town, after a pleasant journey to
scenes rendered famous by the Covenanters.

CHAPTER IX.

The influence of sunshine — Glasgow Road and its scenery — An Adventure
— Specimens of Kilmaurs cutlery — The Reservoir — From it to Row-
allan Castle — The situation and appearance of the Castle described —
The interior of the building— The garden — A fox story — Traditions.

" I SAT, wife ! bring my heavy boots and walking-stick,
the morning is delightful, it is a pity to remain indoors upon
such a day as this is likely to be. I will take a turn in the
country, so you may expect me home in the afternoon."
Twirling my staff and bidding the children " ta-ta," I sallied
forth in quest of adventure and curiosities. Passing along
the street I could not help noticing the effect that a sunshiny
morning has upon men and things in general. The thatched
cottages which are so primitive and dingy-looking during
inclement weather appeared snug and somewhat picturesque
in the sunshine. Mirthful sounds of youthful voices were
borne upon the breeze, and fell upon my ear like sweet music,
as the little men and women who will take our places in
society gamboled in the sheen of the bright orb. Sour-visaged
people jostled each other on the pavement, and looked as if the
sunshine had caused them to forget their crotchets and crosses
for a space. In fact, the very dogs seemed to trot along more
cheerfully and bark their congratulations to each other as if
they really enjoyed themselves. Passing through the Cross
— that centre for business, and loungers of all grades — I
ascended Portland Street, passed under the railway bridge,
and straight ahead. Arriving at Beansburn Toll, I looked
down upon the Foundry Holm and upon the Forge and other
buildings which stand black and unsightly in the valley below.
To the right, on the top of a steep bank clothed with wood,
is the handsome family residence of the late Bailie Craig.
The place is called Dean Hill. It is finely situated and com-
mands an extensive view of the town and country. Passing
some neat villas on my left, I strayed onward admiring the
scenery, which presents an agreeably diversified landscape of
gentle rising grounds, sloping fields, numerous enclosures, and
clumps of planting, until I came to a part of the road where

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. 135

the top of Dean Castle, roofless, time-shattered, and ruinous
looms from the hollow, and reminded me of the following
lines of Turnbull : —

" See where the Dean her ruin'd fabric rears!
A mournful scene her naked wall appears;
The clasping ivy shades her tottering towers,
Where night-owls form their melancholy bowers.
Prone from the top, huge ruined fragments fall;
The howling wind sounds dreary in the hall;
No more the voice of mirth is heard to sound,
But melancholy silence reigns around."

Passing Wardneuk, a small farm-steading on the left, a fine
view of Assloss House and romantic surroundings is obtain-
able. It stands on the top of some thickly-wooded rising
ground, at the foot of which, in a hollow a short distance
from the road, flows the Borland Water, limpid and
unpolluted, with trees laving their branches in its liquid,
and trout sporting in its channel. A sharp walk soon
brought me in sight of the Reservoir and South Craig, a
neat farm-house that stands off the road to the left. Having
heard that the occupants of North Craig — which lies at the
back of South Craig — are in the possession of some cutlery
of Kihnaurs manufacture, I determined to visit the farm, and
if possible get a sight of tjie relics. For this purpose
I turned into a bye-road on the left, but had not proceeded
far when I found myself confronted by a powerful sheep-dog,
•which seemed inclined to dispute the passage, for it growled
and showed its teeth, then barked furiously, as if it meant
mischief. Fearing that the animal might mistake my leg for
a marrow bone, I grasped my stick firmly and dealt it
a whack across the nose that left a striking impression on
its memory, for it dashed through the hedge and tore over a
field at the top of its speed, howling forth an apology in
a most unearthly manner, and leaving me master of the
situation. The coast being clear I proceeded on my way,
and without further adventure arrived at North Craig. This
farm is at present occupied by the widow and son of the late
Daniel Thomson. Here I met with a cordial reception.
They expressed the pleasure that my visit afforded, and
seemed glad to see strangers, and happy to submit to the
curious the small specimens of Kilmaurs cutlery they are

136 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

possessed of. Having seated myself in the spacious kitchen,
which was scrupulously clean, Mrs. Thomson produced from,
a leather case the relics. They proved to be a small silver-
mounted knife and fork of very plain make, but having the
appearance of considerable antiquity. The knife is worn in
the blade and stamped near the handle with the letters
A and B, which is affirmed to stand for Alexander
Bigger, the maker. The fork is two-pronged and has
much the appearance of a miniature hay-fork, the make and
finish being most primitive. These specimens of ancient
cutlery belonged to the great-grandmother of the late Mr.
Thomson, by whom they were greatly prized ; but I am sure
not more so than they are by the present owner, who values
them highly, not for their intrinsic value, but as relics that
link the present with past generations of the family. I have
no doubt of the authenticity of the specimens. In proof of
it I may mention that a Kilmarnock gentleman who is well
known for his antiquarian knowledge was so anxious to pos-
sess them that he tempted the proprietor with a round sum ;
but it was respectfully declined. Bidding North Craig good-
bye I entered the property of the Kilmarnock Water Company
to view the reservoir and filtering basins. Mr. Reid, the super-
intendent, received me kindly, conducted me over the works,
and explained the process through which the water passes before
it is rendered fit for domestic purposes. After a little con-
versation, I ascended a Avooden stair and reached the top of
an embankment which surrounds what appears to be a lake
of considerable extent. The position is commanding,
and from it an extensive view of the surrounding
country is obtainable. This sheet of water is the
reservoir from which the inhabitants of Kilmarnock
draw their supply after it passes through the filters. It
stands about 250 feet above the lerel of the town, and covers
over twenty imperial acres of land. When full it holds
900,000 square yards of water, which is equal to 65,000,000
gallons. Its tributaries are bums, which for the most part
take their rise in Fenwick Moor, every precaution being
taken to exclude moss water and other impurities. The
Kilmarnock Water Company was formed in 1850. To it
the inhabitants of the town are indebted, for at a small cost
they are supplied with water of uniform purity, which not

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARXOCK. 137

only serves for domestic purposes, but purges cesspools,
sewers, etc., of disease-engendering ingredients, and in a
great measure assists to preserve the health of the towns-
people. Thanking the worthy superintendent for his kind-
ness, I bade him goodbye, and leisurely strolled along
the bank of the Eeservoir until I came to a stile road.
Following its course I passed Tannahill, a neat farm-steading,
and soon arrived in the road which runs between Kilmaurs
and Fen wick.

Turning to the right, a short walk along the dusty high-
way brought me to the gate of the avenue leading to Kowallan
Castle, the shattered stronghold of the Mures, an ancient
Scottish family, the last male representative of whom died in
1700. Passing through the gateway, a pleasant walk
brought me to the edge of a dark wood. Here, upon turning
to the right, a delightfully picturesque scene burst upon my
vision. Giant trees stretched their arms over the path, and
flowers of various hues bloomed in wild luxuriance along the
wayside. In the wood the feathered throng poured forth a
flood of song, and all seemed combined to lift the mind
" from nature up to nature's God," and say —

" Fair nature's face before thee lies,
Her coverlet the rainbow dyes,
Whilst up to thy delighted eyes
Her varied beauties start.
There's summer in each sight and sound,
There's God and glory all around !
Then let no wintry feelings wound
The gladness of thy heart. "

Walking leisurely along the rustic avenue, enjoying its
beauties, I ultimately came to the end of the wood, and
looked down upon Rowallan Castle. The scene was
delightful, and amply compensated my walk from the town.
Iiowallan is not, strictly speaking, a castle ; it has more the
appearance of an ancient manor-house, and doubtless is a
good specimen of the fortified feudal residences in the olden
time. The building, viewed from the roadway, looks hoary
and venerable, and wears a mouldering, deserted appearance.
It is situated in a hollow, and is environed with trees, many
of which have braved the blast for centuries, and still wave
their branches as majestically as they did in days of yore,
when knights and ladies gay walked beneath their shadows.

138 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

Near to the venerable building flows the Carmel, a mossy
stream. It is spanned by a bridge, and takes a fine curve as
it flows past the old place, after dancing through dusky
glens and over ragged rocks. Crossing the stream, I
aimlessly strayed through the grounds, and noted each
gnarled tree and object of interest. While thus engaged
I was accosted by the gamekeeper — a burly Englishman
— who, finding me a stranger, conversed freely, and told
me all he knew regarding the venerable pile and its sur-
roundings. He also proffered to introduce me to the people
who have charge of the castle, so that I might view the
interior as well as the exterior of the edifice. Accepting his
invitation, I met with a kindly reception from Mrs Dale,
who along with her husband occupies a room in the
building, and whose untiring industry and cleanly
habits gives to the place a charm, and robs it of that
dreary, sad appearance so peculiar to deserted half-ruinous
buildings. Rowallan Castle has the appearance of having
been built at different periods. The oldest and most dilapid-
ated portion seems to have been erected upon the top of a
rock, or crag, and probably has been surrounded at some
period by a lake. The marshy nature of the ground near its
base goes a considerable way to support this supposition.
The ground chambers of this portion only remain, and are in
a very ruinous and crumbling condition, portions of their
roofs having fallen in. Historians assign it as the birth-place
of Elizabeth Muir, the beloved wife of Robert II., king of
Scotland. The more modern building faces the south, and is
divided from the older by a loopholed wall some forty feet
long. In it there is an ornamented gateway, above which the
date 1666 is still legible. The front of the building has a very
imposing appearance, and bears many sculptured devices. To
the principal door — which is of oak, and studded with iron —
there is a flight of broad stone steps. Over this entrance the
family arms, surmounted by the Royal Arms of Scotland, are
cut in stone. In execution the sculpture is somewhat rude,
but even at this day it looks well, although chipped and
disfigured. Above these devices is the crest of the family —
a Moor's head — which, doubtless, is allusive to a war-like
exploit performed by some member during the crusades against
the Saracens. Above all, and at the top of the building, there

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. 139

is a small tablet with the following inscription: — " JON. MVR.
M. CVGM. SPVSIS. 1562." To the right and left of the tablet,
the armorial bearings of John Mure, of Rowallan, and his
lady, Marion Cunningham, are quartered. From this it may
be inferred that this portion of the building was erected by
them at the above date. There are many other sculptured
adornments, dates, and devices, but the above are most note-
worthy, and are sufficient to induce the antiquary, and the
lover of the picturesque, to visit this really interesting castle.
Passing up the stairs, and through the doorway referred to,
the visitor finds himself in a small courtyard and surrounded
by architecture, the style of which ranges from the fifteenth
to the end of the seventeenth century. Near the centre of the
court grows a sombre yew tree, which accords in a manner
with the ruinous and deserted appearance of the building.
The first indication that the place is partly inhabited is a
neatly whitened step in front of a finely carved oaken door.
This is the entrance to the apartment occupied by the
keeper, and, in fact, to the interior of the castle. There are
a few relics of past greatness preserved. In the old dining-
room there is an elaborately-carved sideboard and an old arm
chair which bears the date of 1617. These are of oak, and
very interesting. In a small room, called " Lord Loudoun's
sleeping apartment," there is a beautifully carved wardrobe
in oak. The room door and pannelling are of the same
material, and chastely ornamental. The next room of interest
is at the top of the building, and is called " the auld kirk."
Here are shown several fragments of kirk stools, which are
for the most part moth-eaten and rotten. In this apartment
the distinguished William Guthrie of Fenwick is said to
have occasionally preached, and the pious Sir William Mure
to have met with his tenantry to worship the God of their
fathers. In almost every room throughout the building every
available portion of space on the walls is covered by names
and addresses. Though hundreds have been wiped off,
yet visitors resort to all manner of schemes to make their
mark. Some have burst into poetry, and recorded their visit
upon the walls in verse. I attempted to transcribe a rhyme
written in a neat hand, but the lines limped so badly that I
left them to the obliviating dishclout of Mrs. Dale. Among
the signatures, initials, and addresses pencilled upon the walls,

14:0 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

I noticed the names of several Kilmarnock celebrities ; but
the most conspicuous was that of a popular clergyman,
whose name and place of worship were recorded in large
letters. At the back of the castle there is an old garden, but
it does not contain anything of historical interest. There are
some fine old trees about it, and altogether it is worthy of
the visitor's attention. I may mention in passing that at that
time there was a zoological curiosity in it. Foxes abound
in the district, and two of these animals had taken up their
abode in the old place. One of them had made its lair under
a bush, while the other — contrary to the habits of the animal
— had taken up its quarters in the branches of a fine old
tree, and looked down from its hiding upon all passing
below. The fox is proverbial for its cunning, but there was
something in the conduct of these two that almost amounted
to reason. Mrs. Dale, like all thrifty housewives in the
country, kept a goodly number of hens, but it was curious
that she never missed one, although they frequented the
garden, and fed within a few yards of where the foxes were
secreted. These animals seemed to discriminate between
her property and that of other people, and to understand that
if they molested the poultry they would require to shift. If
food were scarce, however, I am afraid that they would not
observe this distinction. Upon one occasion the occupant
of the tree while out on its rambles, crossed the path of
a pack of hounds, and started for home with the whole
at its heels, greatly to the delight of the huntsmen.
Being hotly pursued, it with difficulty reached the castle,
bounded over the garden wall, and, to the astonish-
ment of the dogs, disappeared. The huntsmen came up,
and were equally puzzled, and would have gone in search of
another of Reynard's kindred, had not a keeper climbed
up the tree and dislodged the occupant. Leaping
into the middle of the pack, the fox got off unscathed,
and ran in the direction of Fenwick. Its adventures
by the way are unrecorded ; but to the surprise of every
one, it was back to its old quarters the next day, peering
down from among the branches as if nothing particular
had happened. In spite of props and screws, the walls
of Rowallan Castle are fast going to ruin. Time, the
inexorable tyrant, is playing sad havoc with the building,

RAMBLES BOUND KILMARNOCK. 141

and is imperceptibly lout surely crumbling it to pieces.
As in the case of other buildings in the same con-
dition, tradition has twined itself around that of Rowallan,
and many tales, probable and improbable, are related in con-
nection with it. The great enemy of mankind is said to have
visited the place upon several occasions and done his utmost
to destroy it and its occupants. It has long been noted as the
haunt of ghosts, witches, and things uncanny ; but these
chimeras of the brain have fled before the fearless spirit of
investigation now abroad, and the ploughboy can pass the
venerable pile at night, without

" Whistling up Lord Lennox' march
To keep his courage cheery."

I will now relate two or three of the popular traditions of
Rowallan Castle, which I trust will be sufficient to gratify
the reader's curiosity and his Idve for folk-lore. The tradition
of how Rowallan derived its name is very prettily told by the
Rev. George Paxton, a Secession Church minister of Kilmaurs.
He was pastor in the ancient village from 1789 to 1807, and
the author of a volume entitled " The Villager, and other
poems." In some verses to the Carmel he refers to the
tradition in the following beautiful language : —

" A Scottish chief in days of old,
As hoary-headed sires have told,

Was tossed upon the main ;
Small was the skiff, the tempest blew,
The trembling chieftain urged the crew
The distant shore to gain.

' Row ! Allan, row !' the baron cried,
* High on the foaming surges ride,

And bear me safe to shore;
A rich domain on Carmel side,
O'er hill and dale extending wide,

Is thine for evermore.'

The quivering oar bold Allan stretched,
The solid land the baron reached,

And Allan won the prize;
Adorned with ropes of twisted stone,
Long on thy banks Rowallan shone,

And still the storm defies. "

I have heard the tradition related differently, but I think
the above is its most pleasing and poetic form. The next

142 RAMBLES ROUND K1LMARNOCK.

tradition to which I will draw attention refers to no less a
personage than his satanic majesty. A minor poet of
Stewarton has thrown it into verse, and indeed the subject,
though a little sulphurous, looks best in that form.

" 'Tis said, one wintry night of yore
Were met a happy throng
Within Rowallan's festive hall,
Where all was mirth and song;
When, crashing through the nestling trees,
Auld Nick came in a blue-shot bleeze,
By witch- wife conjured, to affright
For grave abuse or cutting spite.
But little ken'd that sinner warm
That in the castle lay a charm
Which Auld Nick's magic could dispel,
And send him baffled hame. Ah! well,
Will he go in ? he takes the road.
' Avaunt thou, in the name of God !'
The parson cried, and then brought down
His Bible whack on Auld Nick's crown.
As when the hunter's well-aimed dart
Strikes through the savage tiger's heart,
Sudden he leaped, and gave a roar
That rent the stair and burst the door,
Then, like a rocket through the night,
In flame of fire passed out of sight."

If the reader has any doubt of the above he had better go to
the castle and examine the stair leading to the principal
door. He will find it rent. The crack is best seen in wet
weather. Tradition says that the stair was split by the hoof
of the devil under similar circumstances to those embodied
in the above metrical relation. If the tradition be true, then
"the old boy" has a powerful pair of legs. .Near to the castle,
and on the top of a steep bank clothed with wood, overlooking
a chasm through which the Carmel gurgles, is a stately tree
with spreading branches and wealth of foliage. It is known
by the name of " the marriage tree," and the bank on which
it grows is called " Janet's Kirn." Beneath this monarch of
the wood (tradition says) Dame Jean Mure, of Rowallan, was
married by a curate to William Fairlie of Bruntsfield, an
estate near Edinburgh, somewhere about the year 1700. The
lady being sole heiress to the castle and estate of Rowallan,
had many suitors for her hand and fortune. Amongst
them was her future husband, Fairlie. Some obstacle

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. 143

now unknown stood in the way of their union, and
she eloped with him. Tradition adds further that the lady
left the castle by a window in the courtyard, which is still
pointed out, and met her lover, who had a clergyman in
readiness to perform the marriage ceremony. The spot where
the marriage is said to have taken place is not more than a
stone's throw from the road leading to the house of the
gamekeeper. It is romantically picturesque, but is forbidden
to visitors. I will notice one more tradition and pass on.
The visitor to Rowallan will notice two bridges in front
of the castle. One spans the Carmel and the other what is
known as the Mill Lade. This lade or burn is a branch off
the Fen wick Water. Long ago it used to turn the wheel
of Rowallan Mill, but the mill is now in ruins, and the wheel
no longer performs splashing music on the bank of the mossy
stream. I have heard the following tradition related in
connection with it : — Once on a time the cutlers and tinkers
of Kilmaurs, finding the Carmel insufficient to supply their
wants, petitioned the King to grant a greater supply
of water. The King (it does not matter which) replied that
he would grant as much from the Fenwick river as
would flow through the leg of a boot. This they gratefully
accepted, and formed an artificial stream between it and the
Carmel. The lade is said to be that stream ; it flows through
a beautiful track of country, and in some parts retains traces
of artificial construction.

CHAPTER X.

The origin and descent of the Mures of Rowallan — A letter from Queen
Mary to Sir John Mure — Sir William Mure: his writings and version
of Psalm xxiii. : events in his life — The last of the Mures — The late
Countess of Loudoun's attachment to the Castle — The Grounds the
resort of pleasure parties — An Address to Rowallan — A ride into the
town.

I WILL now as briefly as possible glance at the history of
the Rowallan family, and bring this ramble to a close. The
source from which I principally derive my information is a
curious volume entitled " The Historie and Descent of the
House of Eowallane, by Sir William Mure, knight of Row-
allan. Written in or prior to 1657." The manuscript of
the above work, together with a number of poetical pieces
from the pen of the same author, was found among some old
family papers in one of the rooms in Rowallan Castle some
fifty years ago. The book is both interesting and curious,
and thrown considerable light upon the manners and customs
of our forefathers in bygone ages, when might was right, and
when a strong arm and a bright blade were often the only
title to broad acres. The style of the book is simple, and
the editor has retained all the peculiarities of the manuscript,
which greatly enhance the value of the work. Rowallan,
according to this authority, had been in the possession of the
Mures "from unknawiie antiquity," but this is questionable;
for it is the opinion of various writers that Polkelly was the
first inheritance of the family, and that Rowallan was acquired
by the marriage of Isabella, daughter of Sir Gilchrist Mure,
during the reign of Alexander III. The Mures of Rowallan
(the writer of "The Historie" states) were descended from
the ancient tribe of O'More in Ireland. The surname of
Mure in Scotland, Moore in England, and More in Ireland,
are synonymous, all having sprung from the same source.
The earliest member of the family spoken of is the Sir

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. 145

Gilchrist Mure already referred to. He was dispossessed of
the house and living at Rowallan by the strong hand of Sir
"Walter Cuming, and compelled to keep close in his castle of
Polkelly until the King (Alexander III.) raised sufficient
forces to subdue Cuming and his adherents. In 1262 Sir
Gilchrist fought at the Battle of Largs. His friends and
retainers, led on by himself, behaved with such bravery that
the King conferred upon him the honour of knighthood, and
" reponed to him his whole inheritance." For the sake of
peace, and for his own security, Sir Gilchrist married his
daughter Isabella to Sir Walter Cuming. At the death of
Cuming Sir Gilchrist " secured not only title and full pos-
session of his old inheritance, but also in his border lands
quherin he succeeded to Sir Walter foresaid within the
Sherefdome of Roxburgh, being sensible and mindful of the
deserving of his friends and followers in time of his troubles,
deals with all of them as became a man of honour, bestowing
freelie vpon each some parcell of land, according to his
respect, interest, or (happly) promise to the persone," etc.
Sir Gilchrist seemingly greatly increased the possessions of
the Mures. He died about the year 1280, nearly eighty
years of age, and was interred in the Mures' Isle, Kilmar-
nock. Sir Gilchrist was succeeded by his son Archibald,
who was slain in battle near Berwick in 1289. He is
described as being a man " wt much discreation & judgment,"
and capable of holding his own "in the turbulent times
qurin he lived." Sir Archibald was succeeded by his son
and heir, "William, who, according to the " Historic," died
about the time King David, after his return from France, was
taken prisoner at the Battle of Durham. This battle was
fought upon the 17th October, 1346. During the early part
of this knight's lifetime Scotland was brought " to a verie lo
ebb, being deserted by the nobilitie, till by the valour of
William Wallace it was set againe upon the feet, and after
his death established by Eobert Bruce, who, having out-
wrestled many sad calamities, did (after) successfully sway the
cepter." Sir William was succeeded by his son Adame —
a shrewd man of business, who greatly improved and
enlarged the family inheritance. His eldest son Avas named
after himself, and his daughter Elizabeth was " made choyce
of (for her excellent beautie and rare vertues) by King Eobert
K

146 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

to be Queen of Scotland." Sir Adame died in the year 1332,
and was succeeded by his son Adame, who seemingly was a
hanger-on about court, and an expectant of its favours.
Tuis Sir Adam died in 1399, and was succeeded by his son
Archibald, who " died in battell against Ingland, 1426."
Eobert succeeded his father, Sir Archibald, and was Sheriff-
Depute of Ayrshire in 1430. Archibald succeeded his father,
Sir Eobert, and is supposed to have been slain at the Battle
of Sark in 1448. Eobert succeeded his father, Sir Archibald.
He was called " the Eud of Eovvallane," being of large stature,
great strength, and not disinclined to a fray. The author of
the " Historic" mentions that " the King in his bearne head
proponed to round wt him, and as he offered swa to doe
dang out his eye wt the pang of ane code-shell. He was a
man reguarded not the weil of his house, but in following
court, and being unfit for it waisted, sold and wodset all his
proper lands of Eowallane, qlk may be ane example to all
his posteritie. he married Margerie Newtoune daughter to
the laird of Michael hill in the Merse. ane drucken woman
& ane waistor man, qt made then this house to stand but
the grace of God." " The Eud" resigned in favour of his
son John. During his lifetime a protracted feud existed
between the houses of Eowallan and Ardoch (the ancient
name of Craufurdland) which was the cause of a great deal of
bloodshed. It is recorded that the evidents of both families
were destroyed, and that John Mure and others were summoned
before the Chief Justice of Scotland for breaking the King's
peace against Archibald Craufurd. John, son of the above,
succeeded to the title and estates. He was married to a
mistress of James IV. The author of the " Historic" says —
" This Johne was ane very worthie man and died at flowdone
field wt King James the fourth. . . . the year of our
Lord 1513." Muugo succeeded his father, Sir John. Tho
historian says — " He bigged the hall from the ground and
compleated it in his awne time. He was a man of singulare
valour and verie worthie of his hands, qrof he gave good
proofe in divers conflicts. He died in battell at the Black
Satterday In the yeare of our Lord 1547." The editor of
the " Historic" adds a note to the notice of Sir Mungo Mure;
it is a quotation from the Eowallan family tree, and is as
follows : — " This moungov muire raisit ye hall vpoue four

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARXOCK. 147

vouttis [vaults] aiid laicli trance and compleitit the samen
in his awne tyme ; he deceissit in battell fechtan agains
Ingland in pinkie feilde: 1547." John succeeded his father,
Sir Mungo. He seems to have passed his life in peace,
having further improved the castle and estate. The following
is another quotation from the Rowallan family tree : — " This
Johne Muire 3 of yat name delytit in policye of plainteing
and bigging, he plaintit ye oirchzarde an gairdein, sett ye
vppir banck and nethir banck ye birk zaird befoir ye zett, he
bigit ye foir vark frome ye grounde ye bakuall and voman-
houa, he leuit graciouslie and deit in peice anno 1591: of
aige 66." This Sir John Mure had a seat in Parliament, and
early embraced the reformed doctrines. In the appendix to
the " Historic " there are copies of three letters addressed to
him. One ^is from Mary Queen of Scots, soliciting aid after
her escape from prison. As it will doubtless interest the
reader, I beg to submit it. It is as follows : —

"Traist Friend, We greit zou well. We believe it is not unknawin to
zou the greit Mercie and Kyndness that almythie God of his infinit gud-
ness hes f urthschevin towart us at this Tyme in the Deliverance of as fra
the maist straitless Preson in quhilk we ware Captive of qnhilk Mercy and
Kyndness we cannot enough thank & therefore we will desire zou as ze
will do us acceptable Service to be at us with all possible [speed] oa
Settirday the aught of this month be aught hours afternone or sooner gif
ze may well accompanyt with zour honourable Friends and Servantis bodin
in feir of weir to do us Service as ze sail be appointit because we knaw
zour Constance at all Tymes. We neid not mak longeir letters for the
present bot will bit zou feir weil — Off Hamilton the 6 of May 1568 and
that ze with the folks bait on fute and horse be heir on yis next Sunday
at the fordest.

"MARIE, R."

It does not appear that Sir John responded to this summons.
William succeeded his father, Sir John. He is spoken of by the
historian of the house as being " of a meik & gentle spirit,
& delyted much in the studie of physick, which he practised
among the poor people wt very good successe. he was ane
religious man and died gratiouslie in the yeare of his age 69,
the yeare of our lord 1616." William succeeded his father,

148 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

Sir William. He is described as being " ane strang man of
bodie & delyted much, in hounting and halking. He died in the
year of his age 63, and of our lord 1G39. William succeeded
his father Sir William. In my opinion he was the most
illustrious member of the family. He was the author
of the " Historic," from which I have gleaned the above
interesting notices. At the close of the work he modestly
speaks of himself thus — " This Sir William was pious and
learned, and had ane excellent vaine in poyesie ; he delyted
much in building and planting, he builded the new wark in
the north syde of the close, and the battlement of the back
wall, and reformend the whole house exceedingly. He lived
religiouslie and died Christianlie in the year of (his) age 63,
and in the year of (our) Lord 1657." How Sir William
came to record the exact date of his death is somewhat curious.
It could not have been inserted by the editor of the work ;
for he says he has retained the exact orthography, contractions,
and punctuation of the MS., making no alteration whatever.
" Sir William Mure, knight," as he styles himself, deserves a
somewhat fuller notice than space has permitted me to give of
his ancestors. He seems to have received (for the period in
which he lived) an excellent education. He early acquired a
taste for literature, which he assiduously prosecuted throughout
the whole course of his life, and from which he derived
peculiar pleasure. When a youth he wrote some Latin verses on
the death of his grandfather. " His manuscript poetry," says
the editor of 'The Historic,' "is considerable. Among the
larger pieces is a translation of Virgil ; a religious poem which
he calls ' The joy of Tears,' and another, ' The Challenge and
Eeply.' " Several of his pieces have been published. In the
" Muses' Welcome," a collection of poems and addresses made
to King James on his visiting Scotland in 1617, there is a
poetical address to the king at Hamilton written by Sir Wm.
Mure of Rowallan. In 1628 he published a poetical transla-
tion of the celebrated " Hecatombe Christiana," of Boyd of
Trochrig, together with a small original piece called "Dooms-
day." In 1629 he published " The true Crucifixe for true
Catholikes," and wrote a version of the Psalms of David,
which, had it been submitted to the Assembly, would doubt-
less have been adopted, its merits being highly spoken of by
competent judges. A specimen of his skill in verse may not be

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. 149

out of place here. Therefore I submit the following version of

" PSALM 23.

1. The Lord my scheepherd is, of want
I never shal complaine.

2. for mee to rest on hee doth grant
green pastures of the plaine.

3. Hee leads me stillest streams beside,
and doth my soul reclame,

in righteous paths hee me doth guide
for glorie of his name.

4. The valey dark of death's aboad
to passe, I'l fear no ill,

for thou art with me Lord ; thy rod
and staffe me comfort still.

5. For me a Table thou dost spread
in presence of my foes

with oyle thou dost anoint my head,
by thee my cup overflows.

6. Mercie and goodness all my dayes
with me sail surelie stay,

and in thy hous, thy name to praise,
Lord I will duell for ay."

Although devoted to literature, he took part in active
public life, was a " member of the Parliament held at
Edinburgh in June, 1643, and of the committee of Warre,
for the sheriff dom of Air, 1644." He was present at the siege
of Newcastle, and fought in several engagements between the
Eoyal and Parliamentary forces. In a postscript to a letter
addressed to his " loving sone," and dated from Tyneside, be-
fore iNewcastle, he says :— "I bless the Lord I am in good
health and sound every way. I got a sore blow at the battle
upon my back wt the butt of a musket, which hath vexed me
very much, but specially in the night, being deprived thereby
of sleep, but I hope it shall peece and peece weare away, for
I am already nearly souud. I thank God for it." Being a

150 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCC.

man of piety, Sir William befriended the Covenanters, and as
much as possible protected his tenantry from the tyranny of the
troopers who scoured the countryside at the period. He was
intimate with the Rev. William Guthrie of Fenwick, who, as
already stated, preached upon several occasions in the " auld
kirk" of the castle. Sir William was succeeded by his son
William, who walked in the footsteps of his pious parent, and
suffered much for his religious opinions. Conventicles were
held by him in the castle, and permitted to take place upon
the estate. For this, he fell under the suspicion of the
Government, and on several occasions suffered imprisonment.
He died about 1686, and was succeeded by his eldest son, who
shared in the persecution directed against his father. He was
the last male representative, and died in 1700, leaving one
daughter. Dame Jean Mure succeded her father and married
William Fairlie of Bruntsfield. This is the lady who was
married under the " marriage tree." The fruit of the romantic
union were three daughters, one of whom (Lady Jean Mure)
succeeded to the estate, and married Sir James Campbell,
youngest son of James, second Earl of Loudoun. At this
stage of the history of the Mures, the estate passed into the
hands of the Loudoun family, and is still retained by them.
The late Countess of Loudoun was greatly attached to Kow-
allau. She often visited the castle, carefully inspected the
rooms, and expended considerable sums on repairs to prevent
the old place from falling to pieces. But she has gone the
way of all the earth, and left the old fabric to battle with the
elements and fall a victim to the ravages of time and decay,
a fate to which it is bound to succumb, for it now totters be-
neath a crushing weight of years. I need not dwell further
upon the beautiful scenery in the neighbourhood of liowallan
Castle. Numbers visit the place, and many pic-nic parties of
lads and lasses, during the months of summer, eujoy them-
selves beneath the spreading trees in front of the castle, and
merrily foot it upon the green sward. I spent some hours
about the old place so pleasantly that I was loath to leave the
scene, and turned round again and again to have a look at the
relic of feudalism in the valley below when departing. While
retracing my steps to the highway I composed the following
verses, which find a place here not on account of any merit
they may contain, but because they describe the old building as

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. 151

it is, and tlie state of my mind on the occasion of my visit : —

KOWALLAN.

Farewell unto thy rocky steep,
Thy crumbling walls and ruined keep ;
In thy decay I read a page
That tells me of a bygone age.
No mere does mirth or laughter sound,
Or footsteps through thy halls resound :
Now all is still, all's bleak decay,
And Ruin wrecks thy fabric grey.
Thy knights and vassals sleep in dust,
Their blades are now consumed by rust ;
Vacant thy rooms, upon their walls
The spider weaves its web ; for all's
Now wreck within, without, around,
And solemn silence reigns profound.
Time moulders wall and winding stair
Once trod by knight and lady fair.
Farewell, Rowallan ! fare thee well !
Adieu unto thy b&sky dell,
Thy ruined keep and shattered tower,
Thy winding stream and leafy bower,
For each memento seems to say
That all on earth must pass away — -
That all must change and parted be,
And crumble and decay like thee.

Entering Kilmaurs road my reverie was interrupted by the
rumbling of wheels. Looking in the direction I observed a medical
gentleman with whom I am intimate driving at a brisk pace.
Observing me, he drew up, and offered to convey me to Kil-
marnock. Availing myself of the speedy mode of reaching
home, I was soon seated beside him, and arrived in town
as the clocks tolled forth the hour of four, after to me a short
but pleasant drive. Jostling through the throng I directed my
steps homeward, where I met with a gleeful reception from my
little folks, and a scolding from my wife for stopping until
dinner v/as " entirely spoiled." Somehow or other I never ate
a better than I did that Saturday afternoon. Country air
sharpens the appetite, and makes one relish anything savoury.

CHAPTER XL

From Kilmarnock to Stewarton — The Parish and its Boundaries — The
town : its Buildings, Trades, and Eminent Characters — Corsehill
Castle and its Traditions— The Parish Church— The late William
Cunninghame of Lainshaw — The Churchyard — The Viaduct — Lain-
shaw Castle — The Murder of Hugh, fourth Earl of Eglinton.

IT is delightful on a radiant summer day to stroll along a
country road and mark with ecstatic joy the form and features
of the landscape, or recline on some gowan-spangled lawn and
gaze at the sun through barred fingers. It is a perfect
luxury when

" Deep in

The many-bladed grass the vi'let springs,
The lily and the humble primrose grow,
The hare-bell and the cowslip knit their heads,
And scented thyme and modest daisy, wrapt
In low obscurity, crowd on the sward,
And send their odours, like the captive's sighs,
Or prayers of saints, to Heaven upon the breeze."

Ah, how I love the country ! I delight to gaze on Earth's
ample page, and adore the Mighty Architect of the Universe
through His works.

" I love not man the less, but Nature more,
From these our interviews, in which I steal,
From all I may be, or have been before,
To mingle with the Universe, and feel
What I can ne'er express, yet cannot all conceal. "

I never enjoyed myself or Nature's beauties to greater ad-
vantage than I did when walking between Kilmarnock and
" the auld toun o' Stewarton." My way lay along Kilmaurs road
—a road whose scenery for a considerable distance is very
tame, so much so that I did not feel myself thoroughly in the
country until I turned into the old Stewarton highway which
branches oif some mile and a-half from, the town. This road —
like all old ones — is very undulating, and the pedestrian while

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. 153

traversing it finds himself either climbing a brae or descending
one until he attains an elevation from which he gets a glimpse
of the greatest bonnet-making town in Scotland, and of a wide
expanse of country stretching for miles around him. I might
have gone to Stewarton by the train on this occasion, as I have
done on many others, but I didn't. Travelling by rail is too
speedy a method for a rambler. He delights to stroll along
quietly, feasting his eyes on the landscape, as he listens to the
cadence of the lark pouring forth its hymn of praise away up
in the sky at the very gate of Heaven. The flowers too — the
wild flowers — have a charm, and combine to woo him from
the town when he can snatch a holiday.

A five mile walk from town along the hedge-bordered
highway brought me to Stewarton, which is situated in a
valley on the bank of a streamlet named the Annick. It flows
from White Loch in the parish of Mearns, and joins with the
Glazart at a place called the " Water-meetings," some three
miles below the town. The ground round the town has a
fine sloping appearance, and is withal well wooded. It
gradually rises from the south-west to the north-east, and ends
on the limits of Renfrewshire. From these heights the ad-
mirer of the picturesque can witness a splendid panoramic
view. On the north is the cloud-capped Benlomond, so
beautifully referred to in one of Tannahill's songs ; on the
south, in the misty distance, the hills of Dumfries and Kirk-
cudbrightshire stand prominently out, while the spectator
has the bright waters of the Frith of Clyde lying at his feet.
Stewarton is situated in the centre of the parish, which is
bounded by the parishes of ISTeilston and Mearns, in Renfrew-
shire, on the north-east ; Fenwick on the east and south-east ;
Dreghorn on the south ; Irvine and Kilwinning on the west,
and Dunlop on the north-west and west. It was erected into
a separate lordship in 1283, and vested in the family of James,
high steward of Scotland, hence the name " Steward's-toun."
The town of Stewarton contains a population of 3299. It
traverses a line of street some three-quarters of a mile long
and terminates in a portion of the town called Darlington.
From this long street several smaller ones branch off.
The principal building in the place is the Cunninghame
Institute. It is situated in Avenue Square, and has an
imposing appearance. It was gifted to the town by the late

154 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

AVilliam Cunninghame of Lainshaw, and consists of a reading-
room and recreation-room up stairs, and a school-room called
" the Academy" on the ground floor. The banking establish-
ments are three in number. The Union is a very fine building,
and the Clydesdale and Royal are very chaste in design.
There are five places of worship, all of which are well attended.
They are as follows : — The Established or Parish Church, of
which more hereafter ; the Free Church, the United Presby-
terian Church, the Wesleyan Methodist Church, and the
Congregational Church. It is worthy of note that the last-
named place of worship was instituted by the late William
Cunninghame of Lainshaw in 1822, and that with the fore-
thought and liberality so characteristic of him he has left to
the members the commodious and comfortable place of wor-
ship, a manse for their clergyman, and a suitable endowment
to maintain both.

From a very remote period the staple trade of Stewarton
has been the manufacture of bonnets. So early as the twelfth
century knitted bonnets were made at Bloak and Cutstraw.
When the trade was in a primitive condition they were made
in farm-houses, and once a year sold at fairs in the neigh-
bourhood. It was then the custom for females to spin the
yarn in their spare time, and to while away the hours of the
long winter nights knitting it into bonnets. But as time
sped on, and as civilization advanced, the trade got into the
Lands of families, or rather a small community, Avho mono-
polised it, and framed laws to protect and retain it in their
own hands. Some of these laws were curious. For instance,
all privileges were carefully guarded, and no outsider was
allowed to work at the trade. A son of a bonnet-maker was
allowed to marry whom, he pleased, but a daughter was denied
that privilege, and compelled to choose a husband in the
trade. These laws at this day are null and void, and bonnet-
makers and bonnet-knitters are married and given in marriage
to all classes of the community. The bonnets made fifty
years ago were principally those substantial head-dresses
known as the " Rab Rorison," or braid Scotch bonnet. Now
the manufacture consists of "Glengaries" and "Balmorals."
Large quantities of these are exported, and vast numbers
supplied to the army and navy.

The next craft of importance to bonnet-making is that

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. 155

of spindle-making. This branch of industry is extensively
carried on by Mr. David Skeoch. The business was estab-
lished by one of his ancestors some hundred and twenty
years ago. The spindles manufactured are used for machinery
in mills, and are made of steel. Like Kilmaurs, Stewarton
at one time was famous for its hardware.

Among the men of note of whom Stewarton can boast
may be mentioned Dr. Robert Watt, the compiler of
the Bihliotlteca Britannica, a standard work of great
merit; also David Dale, the celebrated cotton-spinner, who
was born in 1739 in a room of that house situated in the
Cross, at the right hand corner of Rigg Street. His father
was a grocer, and could only afford to give him a limited
education. Notwithstanding this, by persistent energy he
became one of the first merchants and manufacturers in
Scotland. For a series of years he held the office of magis-
trate in Glasgow, and also officiated as pastor of an Indepen-
dent Church in that city. His charity was extensive, and
many in his native town partook of his bounty long after
his death. He died in March, 1806, leaving £100,000.
David Dale was father-in-law to Eobert Owen, the advocate
of Socialism and the founder of Co-operation.

John Gilmour, a poet of great promise, who died while
pursuing his studies at college, must not be omitted. After
his death a small volume of "Poetical Eemains" was published
by his parents. From, that work I make the following extract :

" STEWARTON.

" 0 how I love thee, lovely village, where

Our ' bonnet manufacture' boasts its rise;
For winding Aunick, tuneless streamlet, there

Keceived me oft o'er head, and ears, and eyes:
Aye ! there I loved to lave my boyish frame,
While moments passed unheeded as they came.

" Unsung, alas! though Annick's waters flow,

Flow thou with them, my unpretending strain;
- Else may my bosom never, never know
The raptures of celestial song again !
For there, in boyhood's first unconscious glow,

My lot was cast among the madcap train :
But certes, far the meanest slave, I ween,
To carol in rude lays my native scene. "

Stewarton is possessed of few antiquities. ^The parish

156 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

contains the ruins of three castles, viz., that of Robertland,
and those of Auchinharvie and Corsehill. The latter is
situated in a field on the Dunlop road, a short distance from
the town. After strolling through the streets I paid it a
visit, and found it to consist principally of a portion of a
wall bearing unmistakeable evidence of recent construction or
repair. Beside it there are some slight remains of founda-
tions, but nothing to interest the visitor. The building seems
to have been of no great extent, nor does it appear to have
been a place of note in feudal times, little being known
regarding it beyond that it was the residence of the Cuning-
hames of Corsehill, the first of whom was a son of the fourth
Earl of Glencairn. Near to the ruin the Corsehill burn
meanders on its way to the Annick, and the new line of
railway between Kilmarnock and Glasgow passes close by.
What history has omitted to record regarding Corsehill Castle
gossip has not failed to supply, and even superstition has
taken advantage of the mystery-shrouded wreck of a baronial
age to people it with supernatural beings. What urchin in
its vicinity has not heard of the untold wealth hid away in a
dark chamber under the foundation, and of the man who was
startled and almost petrified with terror while digging to
discover it by hearing a sepulchral voice calling to him from
the depths of the pile to " dig no more in ruined Ravens-
craig." I daresay there are few Stewartonians who have not
heard of the famous Fanny Howie, and of the hair-bristling
sight she witnessed in the vicinity of the ruin when driving
home from the fair one night at the solemn hour of
twelve. When passing along the road her horse suddenly
stopped, and although reminded by several sharp cuts of
Fanny's whip that it was to move forward, it heeded not the
lash, but stood with drooping ears and dilated nostrils as
immoveable as a statue. This unusual conduct astonished the
fair Fanny, and she looked around for the cause. To her
horror she witnessed a funeral procession crossing the road a
little in advance of her. The hearse, with its nodding plumes,
was drawn by four headless steeds, the driver was headless
also, and every spectral form in the procession was in the
same condition. Rivetted by fear to her seat, Fanny watched
the ghostly crew glide noiselessly past. With an effort she
overcame the terror which paralysed her, and said, " In God's

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. 157

name what does this mean?" There was no reply; the
mention of the sacred name was sufficient ; the vision van-
ished, and Fanny proceeded homeward. I rather think that
Fanny, like the " wee wifikie" in the old song, had gat a "wee
bit drapikie," for it is the case that those who imbibe spirits
generally see them.

After lingering about the ruin for some time I found
my way to the Cross, and leisurely strolled along Lainshaw
Street until I arrived at the Parish Church. Turning down
the little lane leading to it I found the gate of the church-
yard open. On entering, a strange feeling of sadness pervaded
my mind, for the sight of the grass-covered mounds awakened
sad recollections of near ones and dear ones who have crossed
the threshold of death, and gone to a better and happier state
of existence. The church stands in the graveyard, and is an
old-fashioned, odd-looking structure, with a belfry and clock.
The belfry seems to be an addition, for it bears the date of
1696 and the motto, "Over, fork over." Originally the
building must have been very small, for it has undergone
many alterations. The Corsehill and Lainshaw aisles were
added in or about the year 1650, and in 1825 it was widened
on the north side. Internally the church is very neat, and
contains two galleries. Under the Corsehill and Lainshaw
aisles are the burying vaults of the respective families. That
of Corsehill was closed in 1871. On the wall opposite the
pulpit there is a handsome white marble tablet bordered with
black. It bears a profile of the deceased and the following
inscription : — " William Cuninghame of Lainshaw departed
this life 6th November, 1849, aged 73 years. Author of
many works on the chronology and fulfilment of prophecy.
He was a devout student, a zealous expounder of the Word
of God, a laborious and successful instructor of youth, and
lived daily ' looking for that blessed hope and glorious
appearing of the Great God and our Saviour, Jesus Christ.' "
The late William Cuninghame of Lainshaw was a philan-
thropist in the strictest sense of the word. He went about
" continually doing good." The whole of his long life was
devoted to increasing knowledge among and bettering the con-
dition of his fellow-men. During his life he was beloved by
the people of Stewarton, and deeply regretted when death
closed his useful career. When a boy Mr Cuninghame was

K>^ BAUBLES ROUND K1LMARNOCK.

of a very pious turn of mind, and the convictions he then
formed became settled principles when he reached manhood.
Previous to his succession to Lainshaw he was in the Civil
Service of the East India Company in Bengal. During his
stay in India he became acquainted with the celebrated Dr.
Carey, of Serampore, and other eminent Christians, and
assisted them in their missionary labours. He often
spoke of the spiritual comfort and strength that he
derived from these acquaintanceships. While in India
he wrote some letters on the Evidences of Christianity
under the signature of "An Enquirer." These masterly
epistles were afterwards published collectively for the benefit
of the Serampore Mission. In 1804 he returned to his native
country and took possession of his property at Stewarton,
and resided upon it up to the day of his death. He was a
devoiit Millenarian, and strongly believed in Christ's personal
reign upon the earth — in fact, he daily expected His advent,
and wrote several works in support of the doctrine. He also
longed for the restoration of Israel, and did all in his power
with purse, pen, and voice to promote Christianity among
the Jews. As an author, an expositor of prophecy, and a
critic on Scriptural chronology he is well known, and will
long live in the works he published. He died unmarried
and was succeeded by his brother.

" The Auld Kirk o' Stewarton," it is said, at one time
passed through an ordeal which no other church in Scotland
or any other part of. the globe ever did. It seems that some
bonnet-makers had been preeing the barley bree rather freely
in a "public" in the vicinity of the sacred edifice. Among
other matters that engaged the attention of the worthies was
the fact that the kirk did not stand due east and west. They
agreed that it was altogether wrong and a disgrace to the
town. The more they imbibed the more they waxed eloquent
upon the subject. Ultimately they agreed to turn the build-
ing round and set it right. For this purpose four of them
repaired to the churchyard to shift it. Being satisfied of
their ability for the task, each man laid hold of a corner and
lifted with might and main. After pulling and tugging
three of them announced that it would do. " Xa. na, haud
on a wee," cried the fourth ; " lift again, lads, ye've set it
down on my coat-tail." Being unable to rise from the sitting

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. 159

posture he Was in he fully believed it to be the case, but it
was nothing more than the tail of bis coat that had got under
the heel of his boot. This story is laughingly told by
Stewartonians. They all aver that the bonnet-makers shifted
the church to their own satisfaction.

The churchyard is small and irregular in shape. One
portion is separated by an iron railing, and seems to
be reserved for the aristocracy of Stewarton parish. "While
straying through the tall grass reading the brief records on
the tombstones, I observed the sexton busy throwing up
spadefuls of damp, clayey soil on the side of a grave he was
preparing to receive a tenant. Going up, I looked into the
pit, and saw a strange-looking old man, with a low-crowned
hat, and spectacles on nose, laboriously digging at the stub-
born earth, and so deeply engrossed in his work that he did
not seem to be aware of my presence. Thinking of the grave-
digging scene in Hamlet, 1 was about to ask, " Whose grave is
this ?" when the old gentleman looked up, adjusted his " specks,"
and took my measure. " You are busy," said I, by way of
introduction. " Oh, yes," he replied, " but this is no an ill
ane ; it's no sae very deep, an' it's no sae lang since it was
houkit. You see," he continued, " I'm no sae far aff being
doon," and, as if to prove the truth of tbe statement,
he drew the soil off the lid of a coffin under his feet,
and displayed the mountings, which appeared as fresh
as though deposited in the mould the day before. " Who is
to be buried there t" I asked. " Davie Currie, poor fellow,"
he replied. " This is his wife's coffin ; she was buried about
sax months' syne, and Davie, poor lad, wished to be buried
beside her. Do you ken," he continued, " that there's mair
o' the name o' Currie an' Picken buried in this yard than o'
ony itheiv — Auld stanes ? 0 yes ; there's ane yont yonder
'niang the grass; gin ye look, I think ye'll find the date o' 1410,
or thereabout's on't." Leaving him to scoop out poor Davie's
narrow bed, I found the relic, but the inscription was entirely
gone, and the date all but illegible. Near to it I met with
another in the same condition, and found it dated
1413. Many old stones are elaborately carved. A few bear
rude representations of shears and implements used in the
bonnet trade. Near to the back gate there is a large tablet
with a long list of names. The inscription concludes thus —

160 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

"And on the left side lies John Gilmour (late student of moral
philosophy) who died 1 4th April, 1828. Aged 18 years." This
is the resting place of the youthful poet already referred to.

While straying through the old churchyard, in the direction
of the gate, with solemn thoughts crowding on my mind, the
following lines of Macaulay struck me forcibly : —

" Dost thou among these hillocks stray

O'er some dear idol's tomb to inoan ?
Know that thy foot is on the clay

Of hearts once wretched as thy own.
How many a father's anxious schemes,

How many rapturous thoughts of lovers,
How many a mother's cherished dreams

The swelling turf before thee covers !

" Here for the living and the dead,

The weepers and the friends they weep,
Hath been ordained the same cold bed,

The same dark night, the same long sleep.
Here learn that glory and disgrace,

Wisdom and folly pass away,
That mirth hath its appointed place,

That sorrow is but for a day."

At the gate I bade farewell to the little golgotha, passed
into the highway, and turned my face towards Kilmarnock,
with the intention of lingering a few hours about Kilrnaurs
and its neighbourhood to note and muse upon its antiquities.
At the end of the town the viaduct crosses the road and
spans a kind of glen through which the Annick flows.
It is a stupendous erection and consists of ten arches. It is
540 feet long, each arch 50 feet wide and 80 feet high
— that is, from the bed of the river. It took two years to
construct it, and during its erection two men lost their lives —
one by falling from the parapet into the river bed.

Adjacent to the viaduct is the entrance to Lainshaw
Castle, which is at present occupied by Sheriff Anderson. It
"consists of a large square tower, with a lesser one of a different
style and a number of buildings of more recent date connect-
ing them together, and a large and elegant modern addition."
The whole overlooks the Annick, and fronts a handsome park
containing trees of great size and beauty. The scene throughout
the estate is picturesque, and sufficient to thrill the soul of the
most indifferent admirer of Nature's beauties. Ancient Lain-

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. 161

shaw belonged to the Montgomeries ; but that family be-
coming extinct the estate passed into the hands of William,
Cuninghame of Bridgehouse, who acquired it by purchase in
1779. The only thing that makes Lainshaw Castle histori-
cally interesting is the murder of Hugh, fourth Earl of
Eglinton, which was perpetrated on the 19th of April,
1586. It seems that a feud existed between the Cuning-
hames of Eobertland and the Montgomeries of Eglin-
ton. The vassals of the latter, headed by the Earl, invaded
the territory of the first-named and burned their castle.
In revenge for this blazing deed the Earl was waylaid by
the Cuninghames and shot dead. The whole incident
is narrated in " Robertson's Ayrshire Families" in the follow-
ing graphic manner : — " The good Earl, apprehending no
danger from any quarter, set out from his own house of
Eglinton towards Stirling, where the court then remained, in
a quiet and peaceable manner, having none in his retinue but
his own domestics, and called at the Langshaw [close to the
village of Stewarton], where he staid so long as to dine.
How the wicked cresv, his murderers, got notice of his being
there I cannot say. It is reported, but I cannot aver for a
truth, that the Lady Langshaw, Margaret Cuninghame, who
was a daughter of the house of Aiket (others say it was a
servant, who was a Cuninghame), went up to the battlement
of the house and hung over a white table napkin as a signal
to the Cuninghames, most of whom lived within sight of the
house of Langshaw, which was a sign agreed should be given
when the Earl of Eglinton was there. Upon that the Cun-
inghames assembled to the number of thirty-four persons or
thereby in a warlike manner, as if they had been to attack or
to defend themselves from an enemy; and concealed them-
selves in a low ground near the bridge of Annick, where they
knew the Earl had to pass, secure as he apprehended from
any danger — when, alas! all of a sudden the whole bloody
gang set upon the Earl and his small company, some of whom
they hewed to pieces, and John Cuninghame of Clonbeith
came up with a pistol and shot the Earl dead on the spot.
The horror of the fact struck everybody with amazement and
consternation, and all the country ran to arms, either on the
one side of the quarrel or the other, so that for some time
there was a scene of bloodshed and murder in the west that

162 RAMBLES ROUND EILMARNOCK.

had never "been known before." Tradition has it that the
Earl after being shot rode a considerable distance and fell
dead off his horse at the ford of the river. The path along
which he rode was known as the " Weeping Path," and the
scene of his death is said to be Bridgend. The road at
Lainshaw Castle gate, crosses a bridge, and dives under a
canopy of foliage which excludes the sunshine and darkens
the path. The scene was so lovely that I leaned on the
parapet and looked around enraptured.

By the side of the Annick, and imder the shade of the
viaduct, stands Lainshaw Mill. On the top of its chimney
there is a dwarfish rowan tree growing, which is some fifty
years old. It is a curiosity in its way and attracts universal
attention. After a chat with the miller about his mill and
the affairs of the neighbourhood, staff in hand, I sped on to
Kilmaurs.

CHAPTER XII.

From Stewarton to Kilmaurs — The appearance of the Village — The Council
House and Juggs — Kilmaurs of the olden time— Its Government and
Churches — The Monk's Well — My Lord's Place — Jock's Thorn — Kil-
maurs Castle — The Glencairn Family — An Incident.

Near Lainshaw Mill the road to Kilmaurs strikes off to the left.
After skirting the new railway for about a mile it is finely
shaded on each side with trees as it nears Lochridge, a small,
well-wooded estate. The mansion is a quaint building of the
olden time, embellished with armorial devices and retaining
the latticed windows and porched doorway so peculiar to
gentlemen's residences at the beginning of the last century.
From Lochridge the road passes over the brow of a height
from which the pedestrian has an excellent view of Lainshaw
Castle and its policies, the Frith of Clyde, and the vast track
of country lying between him and the margin of its shore.
The view of the coast continues for a considerable distance
and is not lost sight of until the road swoops down to the
ancient village of Kilmaurs. When viewing the beautiful
scenery as I strayed along this very pleasing road how I
wished that some of my readers, Avhom fate or circumstances
have banished from the scenes of their youth, and whose lot
is cast in some far distant land, or who in the pursuit of
wealth or in the practice of their trades are pent up in some
smoke-begrimed city, had been with me ; to them it would
have been an ever-to-be-remembered ramble.

Upon entering Kilmaurs I found it to consist .for the most
part of one long straggling street lined with irregularly built
tenements, which are most primitive in construction and
appearance. In the centre of the street stands the Council
House, a church-like erection with a steeple and clock.* By

* On the 28th of August, 1874, the steeple was struck by lightning during the
prevalence of a storm. Twelve feet of it was thrown down, but beyond the smash-
ing of the steps in front of the Court House and several panes of glass in its rear
no accident occurred.

164 RAMBLES ROUXD KILMARNOCK.

the side of the steps leading to the hall door the "Juggs"
still dangle at the end of an iron chain. They are in a good
state of preservation, and attract more attention than any
other relic of antiquity about the place, being often handled
and curiously examined by strangers, many of whom seem at
a loss to understand what the rusty iron collar could have
been used for. The last time they were brought into official
requisition was in the case of a woman found guilty of theft.
After undergoing her sentence she was laid hold of by a mob
and drummed out of the parish. This disgraceful affair
occurred in 1812.

Kilmaurs, like many Scottish towns, derives its name from
the patron saint of the church. The town was erected into a free
barony, with power to elect bailies, create burgesses, to hold mar-
kets, fairs, and so forth, by King James the Fifth in 1527. From
this charter Cuthbert, Earl of Glencairn, as superior, received
power to parcel out land in burghal tenements. In November
in the above year the Earl and his son granted a charter, and
divided equally 240 acres of land amongst forty persons, to
be held by them, their heirs, and successors for ever, upon
the payment of 80 merks yearly. These individuals were
called " tenementers," and had the exclusive privilege "of
buying or selling, of brewing or malt-making, and all other
arts or trades, as that of shoemakers, skinners, carpenters,
woolsters, &c." The design of this charter, which is still in
existence, seems to have been to lay the ' foundation of a
manufacturing and commercial population, but the scheme
was never successful. The "tenementers," instead of turning
their attention to the arts, devoted their whole energy to
agriculture, and Kilmaurs in the course of time became
famous for growing the best kail plants in Ayrshire. The
only trades that ever obtained a kind of permanency in the
place were the manufacture of steel clockwork and cutlery.
These were carried on to some extent. The knives manufac-
tured by the cutlers were noted for their sharpness of
edge, and this circumstance gave rise to the old saying, " as
sharp as a Kilmaurs whittle," which is often applied to
persons of acute understanding or quickness of action. Upon
one occasion a Kilmaurs clergyman rose to address an audience
after a young divine who had concluded a discourse in flowing
English. The gentleman, who was somewhat jealous of the

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. 165

rhetoric of his young friend, is reported to have said — " My
friends, we have had a great deal of fine English ware amang
us the day, but aiblins my Kilmaurs whittle will cut as
sharply as ony English blade ! " The cutlers and steel-workers,
tradition states, went to Sheffield and laid the basis of the
hardware trade of that town. Be that as it may, the manu-
facture of hardware has long since departed from Kilmaurs,
and nothing but weaving, shoemaking, and other crafts
incidental to all rural districts were carried on until a few
years back, when bonnet-making was introduced. This
industry has given an impetus to the trade of the place,
and affords employment to many of the inhabitants. The
factories of Mr. Woodrow and Messrs. Laughland & Eobert-
son, are in a prosperous condition, and I trust will form the
neucleus of many more establishments of a like nature.

The town at this date contains a population of 1145. It
is governed by two bailies, the election of whom is vested in
the burgesses or "tenern enters." That body also elects the
town treasurer, fiscal, and clerk. The police force consists of
one solitary individual, whose situation seems a sinecure, the
inhabitants being for the most part sober and industrious.
In the matter of church accommodation it is fairly supplied,
being possessed of three places of worship which belong to as
many different denominations. First, there is the Parish or
Established Church, then the United Presbyterian and Free
Churches. The U.P. is the finest building in the place, and
presents a handsome appearance. It is built on the site of a
former place of worship of the congregation, and was opened
on Sabbath, the 26th March, 1865, the inaugural sermon
being preached by the Eev. Professor Eadie of Glasgow.
This church was constituted in 1738, and was then
the only Antiburgher place of worship in Ayrshire.
The rev. and popular David Smeeton was the first minister,
and the old meeting-house was often crowded on Sabbath-
days by people who had ridden many miles to listen to this
earnest and eloquent servant of God. Professor Paxton
followed Mr. Smeeton. He was a man of considerable
literary talent, and under his care the church prospered.
When he removed to Edinburgh he was succeeded by the
Eev. Mr. Eobertson, who laboured for thirty-six years with a
popularity that never varied. After Mr. Eobertson came Mr.

166 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.'

Christie. He was followed by the Eev. Mr. Taylor, who
removed to Bootle, and from thence to New York, where he
has had conferred upon him the degree of D.D. The present
pastor is the Eev. Andrew Gray. He entered the charge in
1857, and is highly spoken of hy the people of Kilinaurs.
The Free Church is a plain, unassuming edifice, bearing the
date 1854. There is little of interest connected with it. The
Eev. Mr. Maxwell is pastor, and is well known as an earnest
and devout minister.

From the Cross I entered Fenwick road. At its corner,
next the Council House, stands an old-fashioned building
that was at one time the residence of the Eev. Mr. Smeeton,
the Antiburgher minister. Since his day it has been
stripped of its dignity, and is now converted into a
spirit shop. A few yards past it I turned down a rural lane,
and soon arrived at a rude bridge spanning the Carmel, the
streamlet on whose bank Kilmaurs is situated. Crossing, I
was delighted to discover a neat bowling-green, upon which
Mr. M'Naught, the parish schoolmaster, and other gentlemen
were playing off for a silver medal. Near to the bridge,
and at the foot of Place Brae, under a canopy of thorn
bushes, is situated a very interesting spring named the
Monk's Well, from which the lieges of Kilmaurs draw
their supply of water. This well has two remarkable peculi-
arities— it never freezes, and although hundreds of pailfuls of
its liquid are carried off daily, it ever remains brimful and
pours its superfluous water into the river at its brink. How
it obtained its name is a matter of conjecture, but possibly it
did so from the fact that the monks in connection with the
village church drank of its store when they lacked better
cheer. There is a tradition in connection with it worth
relating. It is as follows: — Once upon a time the lord of
the manor — possibly one of the Glencairn family — forbade
the inhabitants of the village to draw water. His mandate
was law, and when the villagers ceased to come
with their pitchers, the well, to the astonishment of
all, dried up. At this his lordship waxed wroth, and applied
to a dignitary of the church for a solution of the mystery.
" Go," said the ecclesiastic, " restore the well to the people,
let them come Avith their pitchers, and it will flow as of
yore." This was done, and the well poured forth its waters,

RAMBLES BOUND KILHARNOCK. 167

and I suppose has never ceased to do so since the wonderful
event.

From a lengthy piece of verse on the Monk's Well by
William C. Lamberton, a Kilmaurs poet of some local fame,
I make the following extract for the twofold purpose of pre-
senting the reader with a specimen of his poetry and con-
veying a right idea of the spot which the verses so happily
describe.

" The Carmel sweetly murmurs by,

The wild flowers scent the breeze,
The little birds sweet music make

Among the leafy trees.
The footpath by the streamlet's brink

By many feet is worn,
Down to the little stone-built well

Beneath the spreading thorn.

" And here at twilight's quiet hour

The village maidens come
With sportive jest and glee to bear

Its priceless treasure home ;
Both day and night — by young and old

Its presence is desired,
At feast and fast, when sick or well,

Its water is required.

" And one of fever dying in
A far off land did cry —
'Oh for a drink from the monk's well

Once more before I die. '
Ne'er summer's drouth nor winter's frost

Does hurt this blessed spring,

And in its praise our local bards

Their sweetest notes do sing."

Bidding adieu to the Monk's Well, I swung myself over a
dilapidated paling and began the ascent of Place Brae. Upon
its brow stands My Lord's Place, an old-fashioned and partly
ruinous building. With the exception of the mansion-house,
which is in an excellent state of preservation, blocks of
masonry adjacent to it are much decayed, and at first sight
seem the remains of a large building that Time has shattered
and almost levelled with the ground. But this is not the
case. The seeming ruins are nothing more than the remnant
of the walls of an elegant structure which was in course of
erection during the lifetime of the Lord Chancellor of Scot-

1G8 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARXOCK.

land, "William, ninth Earl of Glencairn. At the death of his
lordship the work was abandoned, and no other member of
the family proceeding with it the pile was allowed to become
a wreck. Several members of the Glencairn family lived in
the old mansion-house, and the last individual of distinction
who occupied it was a relative of the Eglinton family. It is
at present occupied by an obliging old lady, who kindly
showed me over the house. From the brow of The Place
brae the view is delightfully picturesque. At the foot is the
neat bowling-green and the little river winding along. On
the rising ground opposite stands the village ; in the hollow
the church, with a well-wooded background ; and beyond a
widely diversified landscape, through which runs the railway
— a thread of that wondrous iron network that has
brought many secluded towns and hamlets into direct
communication with the large centres of industry. Taking a
last look at the old mansion-house and its surroundings, I
musingly strayed in the direction of Jack's Thorn, a neat
farm-steading that tops the neighbouring hill to the east.
In its immediate vicinity there are many venerable trees.
In some places they form clumps, but elsewhere stand in
regular rows, forming as it were a carriage drive. These
trees; from their seeming age and diversified appearance,
doubtless formed part of the " faire park" spoken of by
Pont. From Jack's Thorn I passed down an avenue and
entered a field. A pleasant walk over the gowan-spangled
grass brought me to the top of a sward-covered circular
mound, which tradition affirms to be the site of Kilmaurs
Castle, but there is not a vestige of the building remaining.
The plough has long since passed over the spot, and cattle
lowing stray where the ancient castle stood in all the pomp
of family distinction. Pont surveyed the district 266 years
ago, and wrote as follows concerning the stronghold : — " The
castell is ane ancient, strong building, belonging to tho Earl
of Glencairne, environed with a faire parke, called Carmell
wod, from the vatter of Carmell that runs by it." This,
reader, is all that is recorded concerning the castle of Kil-
maxirs. Its pomp and form are matters of conjecture, and
were it not for the fact that several old people in the village
remember of sporting among some ruined remnants of masonry
which occupied the spot the situation would be unknown.

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARKOCK. 1G9

Kilmaurs Castle was the baronial residence of the Cuning-
hames of Kilmaurs, Earls of Glencairn. The surname, it will
be observed, is territorial, and was originally assumed from the
bailery of that name, and alludes, according to Van Bassen,
to the following circumstance: — "One son of Friskin assisted
Malcolm (afterwards Malcolm Canmore), after the murder of
his father, King Duncan, in making his escape from the
tyranny of Macbeth ; and being hotly pursued, took refuge in
a barn, where Friskin concealed him by forking straw over
him, by command in the words of the motto, ' Over, fork
over.' The pursuit being over, the prince made his escape to
England, accompanied by his faithful preserver. The prince
was no sooner in possession of his kingdom than he rewarded
his preserver with the Thanedom of Cuninghame, from which
he and his posterity took their name, and grained the shake-
fork as the armorial figure, with said motto, to perpetuate the
memory of his happy escape." Doctors differ on many sub-
jects, and so do historians. Sir G. M'Kenzie affirms that the
shake-fork and motto were assumed by the noble house of
Glencairn owing to their having the office of master of horse
in the king's stables. I have no doubt that the arms of the
family, an argent, a shake-fork, and sable, with the motto, "over,
fork over," have reference to some circumstance connected
with the family history, but leave the reader to draw his own
conclusion. The first of the family upon record is one
Warnebaldus de Cunninghaine, who flourished in the reign of
Edgar and Alexander I. (The latter reigned from 1107 to
1124.) This Warnebaldus is assumed to have been in pos-
session of the lands of Kilmaurs, and possibly the castle may
have been built by him, but this is merely conjecture. After
Warnebaldus there follows a long list of

" Knights that wight and worthie were,"

but I will not weary the reader by a recital of their numerous
virtues, warlike exploits, and doughty deeds, but simply state
that the last of the male line of the main stem of the great
Cunninghame family was John, fifteenth Earl of Glencairn,
who died unmarried in 1796. He succeeded, his brother
James, the early and indulgent patron of Robert Burns, the
ploughman poet. What Scotchman who has read the
"Lament" for this Earl of Glencairn can ever forget the soul-

170 RAMBLES ROUND K1LMARNOCK.

stirring effusion 1 — especially the last two stanzas, for in them
the bard pours forth his grief in the bitterness of his soul.

" Oh ! why has worth so short a date ?

While villains ripen gray with time ;
Must thou — the noble, generous, great,

Fall in bold manhood's hardy prime ;
Why did I live to see that day ?

A day to me so full of woe !
Oh ! had I met the mortal shaft

Which laid my benefactor low !
" The bridegroom may forget the bride,

Was made his wedded wife yestreen ;
The monarch may forget the crown

That on his head an hour has been ;
The mother may forget the child

That smiles sae sweetly on her knee ;
But I'll remember thee, Glencairn,

And a' that thou hast done for me !"

Leaving the site of Kilmaurs Castle I struck through a
field, and after a brisk walk arrived at a low hedge, which I
cleared with a bound, and landed in a secluded road minus
my hat, which flew off during my brief suspension between
heaven and earth. There was no help for it ; back I had to
go to recover iny new "felt," which I did at the risk of tearing
my unmentionables into ribbons. Moving in the direction of
the village, I arrived in Kilmaurs road, turning the comer
just in time to see a young gentleman imprint a kiss on the
rosy lips of a rather good-looking young lady whose waist the
left arm of the happy fellow encircled. She did not seem
averse to the salutation ; but oh ! when she discovered that
they had been caught in the act,

"Her face it reddened like the rose, then pale as ony lily"
she hurriedly drew down her veil to hide her confusion.
Smilingly I passed, for I thought of my own daffing days,
and how the young lady might have chided her lover with
the following stanza of an old song : —

" Behave you-seF before folk,
Behave yoursel' before folk,
Oh ! dinna be sae rude to me
As kiss me sae before folk.
It \vadna gie me muckle pain,
Gin we were seen an' heard by nane,
To take a kiss or grant you ane,
But guidsake no before folk."

CHAPTEE XIII.

Kilmaurs continued — The old Church — Its appearance and history — An
Anecdote of the Rev. Hugh Thomson — The Glencairn Isle and Monu-
ment— The appearance of the Vault when opened — A Ghastly Keep-
sake—The Rev. George Paxton — "Wee Miller" — "The Double
Suicide" — The Old Manse — Covenanting Relics — A Stroll along
Crosshouse Road — The Estate of Plann — Busbie Castle — The Tumulii
at Greenhill Farm — Home again.

At the foot of the village of Kilmaurs, in the centre of a small
graveyard, stands its old Parish Church — a Gothic structure
of considerable antiquity. Finding the gate of the little
burying place open I entered and stood for a few moments
leaning on my staff surveying the grass-covered mounds where

" Servants, masters, small and great,

Partake the same repose ;
And where in peace the ashes mix
Of those who once were foes."

Stoical indeed must the man be who unmoved can stray
through an old churchyard without musing upon the apparent
end of life, or cherishing a passing thought upon the layers of
fellow-mortals who moulder beneath his feet.

" Like leaves on trees the race of man is found,
Now green in youth, now withering to the ground ;
Another race the following spring supplies ;
They fall successive and successive rise."

The church upon near inspection appears to be a quaint old
building which has received several additions. According to
the author of Caledonia it was dedicated to a Scottish saint
named Maure, who is said to have died in 899, and who was
commemorated on the 2nd of November. "So early as 1170,"
says Paterson, " Robertus filii Wernebaldi granted the church
of Kilmaurs, in the township of Cunninghams, with half a
caracute of land, to the monks of Kelso. This charter was
confirmed by Kichard Morville, Great Constable of Scotland,

172 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

and Lord of Cuninghame, the superior ; also by Engleram,
Bishop of Glasgow, who died in 1174. . . . The monks
enjoyed the rectorial revenues, and a vicarage was established
to serve the cure. In Bagimont's Eoll, as it stood in the reign
of James V., the vicarage of Kilmaurs, in the deanry of Cun-
ninghame, was taxed at £'2 13s. 4d., being a tenth of the
estimated value. The whole passed into lay hands after the
Reformation." The interior of the church is in keeping with
its exterior, being plain and of a peculiar shape. It contains
nothing of interest. In the wall there is a stone slab to the
memory of Hugh Thomson of Hill, minister of the gospel at
Kilmaurs, his wife, and twelve children. Mr. Thomson died
in 1731. "He was a person of great muscular strength,"
says the writer of the Kilmaurs article in the' Statistical
Account. " We have heard that, being in Kilmarnock on a
market day, he approached a stand on which a blacksmith
had exposed to sale horse-shoes and other hardware articles of
his own manufacture. Mr. Thomson, wishing to purchase
some of the horse-shoes, asked the price of them, and on being
told, said by way of joke — ' So much for these. I could twist
them with my fingers.' ' Twist them, then,' said the smith,
' and you shall have the price of your own making.' Mr.
Thomson took one of them up and twisted it almost with as
much ease as Samson broke the green withes with which he
was bound. The blacksmith stood aghast ; and thinking his
customer no cannie, he gave him the shoes on very reasonable
terms, and was right glad to see his back turned." Separated
from the church by a narrow passage stands the Glencairu
Isle — a dungeon-like building with an iron gate, and a small
barred window, through which the light of day streams and
dimly illumines the interior. Under the window there is a
brass plate bearing the following inscription : —

" This ancient burying place of the Glencairn family, which
had fallen into ruins, has been restored by Dame Charlotte
Montgomery Cunninghams, in memory of her beloved hus-
band, Sir Thomas Montgomery Cunninghame, 8th Baronet of
Corsehill, and descendant of Andrew, 2nd Son of the 4th Earl
of Glencairn. He passed to his rest 30th August, 1870."

Against the eastern wall stands a handsome mural monu-
ment, erected by James, the seventh Earl of Glencairn, in the
year 1600. This beautiful specimen of ancient architecture

RAMBLES BOUND KILMARNOCK. 173

contains within a recess formed by receding columns — which
are surmounted by an entablature and some beautiful scroll
work — full-sized half-length figures of the Earl and Countess
clad in armour. They stand in the attitude of prayer, with
folded hands and open books before them. Beneath on a
lower level are the figures of two boys and six girls which
represent their family. They also have folded hands and
books before them, and a devotional appearance. Behind the
figures of the adults there is a tablet containing a semi-faded
inscription, now quite unreadable. Upon one of the columns

" NOTHING SHURER THAN DEATH, BE THEREFOR SOBOR AND

WATCH IN PRAYER" is still legible. It was long believed that
this monument commemorated William, 9th Earl of Glencairn,
who died Lord Chancellor of Scotland; but this was fallacious,
because it was erected forty-four years before his death. Some
years ago when the aisle was undergoing repair, the vault was
opened, and the bones and dust of generations of the Glen-
cairn family were seen lying confusedly upon the damp floor
amongst rotten coffins which had fallen to pieces and scattered
their contents. Amongst the skulls there was one of a red-
dish hue supposed to be that of the Chancellor. A tradition
states that his lady, Margaret Montgomery, was so strongly
attached to him that she had his corpse decapitated and the
head embalmed. The ghastly trophy was kept in her bed-
room, and when she died it was — in accordance with a wish
she expressed— placed in her coffin and buried with her.
Both aisle and monument are much decayed. At no distant
date the dust of the once lords of the manor will mingle with
that of their meanest hind in the lap of mother earth. Nature
heeds not the " storied urn" or the obsequies of the wealthy.
She makes no distinction between the loutish clown in his
nameless grass-covered grave and the earl in his vault. They
sleep equally sound, and possibly when the dead wakes at

' ' The trumpet's ring,
The thrust of a poor man's arm will go
Thro' the heart of the proudest king/''

With such thoughts as these crowding on my mind I left the
aisle and began to stray through the ancient burying ground.
One portion lately added has quite a modern appearance, lairs
being laid off and new tombstones erected. But as I love to

174 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

etray " in the winding ways of hoar antiquity," I turned my
attention to the grassy hillocks, beneath which

" The rude forefathers of the hamlet sleep,"

and discovered that the oldest stone is to the memory of a
William Coningham, and dated 1634; also, many others
curiously carved, which form antiquarian objects of interest.
Among the mementoes of departed worth met with while
wandering through the tangled grass, space only permits me
to mention two, and a nameless grave in the south corner.
The first of these is a monumental tablet commemorative of
the wife and family of the Rev. George Paxton. This is the
inscription : — " To the memory of Mrs. Eliz. Armstrong, who
died 25th August, 1799, in the 37th year of her age. This
stone is erected by her affectionate husband, the Rev. George
Paxton. Also, to the memory of their beloved children,
Martha Paxton, who died 16th Dec., 1792, aged 4 months ;
and William Paxton, who died 8th Oct., 1799, aged 3 years.

' Insatiate archer ! could not one suffice ?
Thy shaft flew thrice, and thrice my peace was slain.' "

George Paxton was minister of the Secession 'Church of
Kilmaurs from 1789 to 1807. He then removed to Edin-
burgh, and rose to be Professor of Divinity to the General
Associate Synod. He was the author of the " Villagers and
other" poems," and was known as a scholar and masterly
prose writer.

The next is to the memory of the Rev. Alexander Miller.
He was the author of the Kilmaurs article in the old Statis-
tical Account, and was the " Wee Miller" to whom Burns
refers in his " Holy Fair."

" Wee Miller neist the guard relieves,

And orthodoxy raibles,
Though in his heart he weel believes,

And thinks it auld wife's fables.
But faith ! the birkie wants a manse,

So caiinily he hums them,
Although his carnal wit and sense,
Like hafflins ways o'ercomes him
At times that day."

The inscription is as follows : — " Erected by Jas. Boswell
Miller in affectionate remembrance of his father, the Rev.

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. 175

Alex. Miller, minister of this parish, who died 25th Decem-
ber, 1804, deeply regretted by all who could appreciate his
worth as an intelligent divine, dutiful son, watchful father,
and a faithful friend."

I will now refer to the obscure grave in the south corner.
There the bodies of Mr. and Mrs. Barker repose in the
unbroken slumber of death. They committed suicide by
drowning themselves in the Irvine, near "Wet Bridge, on the
24th October, 1844. The circumstance at the time was
spoken of as " the double suicide," and being so romantic
and unprecedented it caused a great sensation throughout the
country. "When found the bodies were tied together with
handkerchiefs, and in such a manner that it was evident each
had assisted the other in effecting their object, and that they
had lain down in the water, for it was only some three feet
deep. The remains of the faithful pair were conveyed to
Kilmaurs, and placed in the Parish Church to await identi-
fication. The circumstance noised abroad, and thousands
nocked to view the corpses, but no one identified them.
From the apparel in which the bodies were attired it was
evident that the deceased had moved in superior society.
This set the inventive imagination of many at work, and all
kinds of stories and suppositions were circulated, but the
facts of the case when known amounted to this : — The ill-
fated pair came to Kilmarnock about a week before the sad
event and put up at the Commercial Hotel. One evening
they called for their bill, and when the gentleman paid it he
remarked in an off-hand manner that they were going for a
walk. They left but never returned, and the next heard of
them was that they had committed suicide. It was supposed
they came from England, and that unfortunate business
speculations and a dread of poverty had caused the committal
of the rash act. They now rest from their troubles unknown,
and I may say almost forgotten. Near to the churchyard,
and in a garden at the back of it, stand some slight remains
of an old monastic building which was supposed to be in
conjunction with the church at one period. Sir Hugh de
Morvile is said to have resided in it while engaged building
a portion of Kilwinning Abbey in the twelfth century, and
it is affirmed that it was occupied so late as 1630. It is now
in a ruinous condition, and occupied by swine, who seem to

176 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCfc.

have a greater taste for clean straw and good swill than
antiquities.

Leaving the churchyard and all its melancholy associations,
I walked towards the village, and having crossed a little
bridge spanning the Carmel, stopped before an old building
on the left, which is said to have been a manse at one period.
It is antique in appearance, and presently occupied by
families in poor circumstances. Above one of its windows in
rude characters is

" WALK IN THE LIGHT."

Tradition states that the man who built this house did so
with stones which he purloined during the night from a
neighbouring quarry, and that being discovered he consented
to the above inscription being graven above his window
rather than be prosecuted for the theft.

From the old manse to the Council House the main artery
of the village is most primitive in appearance, the houses
being for the most part thatched, low-roofed tenements, but
notwithstanding this they have a cosy, bien look about them,
which is greatly enhanced by the kail-yards and flower-plots
at their back doors.

Although Kilmaurs does not contain a stone to the memory
of one man who laid down his life for the Covenant, yet it
is possessed of relics of that period. These consist of a drum
and flag which are said to have passed through the battles of
Drumclog and Bothwell, and to have been carried by a
detachment of the villagers who marched to the roll of the
first and fought round the second on the memorable fields.

The Drum is in the possession of Mr. David Smith, and
is in every way similar to the one in the possession of the
Howies of Lochgoin, an account of which the reader will find
in page 129.

The Flag is in the possession of Mr. Robert Harper.
Unfortunately it is in tatters, and in an attempt to preserve
it, it has been in a great measure destroyed. The following
inscription is still legible : — " Drumclog, 1679 ; Bothwell,
1679. Kilmaurs for the Presbyterian interest of Christ,
Reformation in Church and State, agreeable to the Word of
God and our Sworn Covenants."

Upon reaching the Cross I stepped into an inn to partake
of refreshments before starting on my homeward journey.

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCR. 177

Having done so, and indulged in a chat with the cheerful
landlord, I took my leave, and staff in hand turned into the
road leading to Crosshouse. Passing the station of the new
line of railway which has brought Kilmaurs into something
like direct communication with the outer world, and which
doubtless will yet be the means of introducing a larger
measure of trade and commercial enterprise into its sluggish
system, I pushed onward and soon left the old village behind.
Straying along the hedge-bordered highway, amusing myself
from time to time by knocking the tops off thistles with
swinging blows of my stick, I stopped occasionally to survey
the landscape and the fields of yellow grain all ripe for the
sickle that waved in the cool afternoon breeze. The sickle 1
well that is hardly correct in this era of wonder-working
machinery, for the reaping machine is now universally used,
and in fact I heard its click, clicking sound, and saw it at
work in several fields where rakers and binders were busy
"stocking" the golden-eared treasure as it fell before the
advancing juggernaut. I did not meet with anything calling
for special notice in this road until I arrived at the handsome
bridge which spans the old line of railway. I lingered on it
for some time and watched the trains glide along like things
of life, and their engines vomiting forth clouds of smoke and
steam which floated away in flakey, fleecy clouds and melted
into nothingness. From the west parapet I looked down
upon Crosshouse station and over a wide expanse of country
'through which the railway runs into dim perspective.

To the south of the railway is the estate of Plann, and on
some rising ground near the bridge the extensive fire-clay
works of John M 'Knight & Son. The estate is the property
of the senior partner, who has been very successful in his
mining operations. Some years ago, while sinking a pit in
the vicinity of the mansion-house, a seam of ironstone of a
very high quality was discovered somewhat accidentally, and
contrary to the expectation of the most eminent geologists.
When the discovery was made known many who are deeply
interested and engaged in geological studies came and carried
away specimens of the ore, with a sceptical feeling that would
scarce admit the fact that ironstone is in the locality. Besides
ironstone the estate is rich in coal and fire-clay. The coal is
of a first-class kind, while the fire-clay contains properties

M

178 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

which enable it to withstand intense heat, and it is pronounced
to compare favourably with the most celebrated clays of a
fire- resisting nature by the eminent E. Carter Moffat and the
well-known Robert A. Tatlock, F.R.C.E., F.C.S.

From the bridge a short walk brought me to Knockentiber,
a row of old houses at present occupied by miners. Near to
it stands the ruin of Busbie Castle, once the residence of a
family named Mowat, who alienated their lands somewhere
about 1630. Being somewhat curious, I went to inspect the
pile, and found it situated in a garden a short distance from
Crosshouse road. It seems to have been a "fortified feudal
mansion of three storeys. Round the architraves there is a
sculptured cable which winds fantastically round the walls.
The wreck is in a most ricketty and seemingly unsafe con-
dition— so much so, indeed, that I would not be surprised to
hear of it being blown down during a storm. Little is known
regarding it. It is supposed to have been built by a David
Mowat, who received a grant of the lands from Robert III.
somewhere about 1390. His descendants seemingly never
attained distinction. If we are to believe the indefatigable
"Wodrow, the last of the Mowats who dwelt in the castle was
not an over scrupulous observer of the Sabbath, for he pro-
faned the holy day by having great gatherings at his house,
and by playing at football and other games. " Mr. Welsh
took the liberty to write several prudent and civil letters to
the gentleman, desiring him to suppress the profanation of the
Lord's day at his house. The gentleman not loving to be
received a Puritan, slighted all, and would not amend. In a
little time after, Mr. Welsh, riding that way, came to his
gate, and called for the gentleman, who, coming out, invited
Mr. Welsh in, which he declined, and told him he was come
to him with a heavy message from God, which was, that be-
cause he had slighted the advice given him from the Lord,
and would not restrain the profanation of the Sabbath in his
lands and beside his house, therefore, the Lord would cast
him out of his house and lands and none of his posterity
should ever enjoy them. This was visibly fulfilled ; and
though the gentleman was in very good circumstances at the
time, yet from that day forth all things went cross, and he
fell into one difficulty after another until he was compelled
to sell his estate ; and when he was giving the purchaser pos-

EAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. 179

session of it, he said with tears before his wife and children,
' Now, Mr. Welsh is a true prophet.' " This is Wodrow's
account of the vacuation of the castle and lands, and no doubt
he penned it in good faith and believed every word of it.
Paterson says, that " in 1661, Hugh, Earl of Eglinton, was
served heir to his predecessor in the lands of Busbie, Knock-
entiber, and Robertown. It had been in their possession,
however, some years previously. Among the Eglinton papers
there is a receipt for the rents of Eobertown and Busbie for
crop 1638, amounting to one thousand four scoir sevintein
pundis, threttein shillings, four pennies. The Mowats of
Busbie," he adds, " are now wholly extinct, and the name in
Ayrshire is rare." From inspecting the castle I returned to,
Knockentiber, and took the nearest road home, which is an
old and very hilly one. Descending a pretty steep brae I
arrived at the Carmel, crossed a neat bridge, and sped onward.
On my left, near the bank of the stream, I observed, on some
rising ground, a circular mound which wakened my curiosity
to such an extent that I determined to visit it, and for that
purpose introduced myself to the tenant of the farm of Green-
hill. The mound is situated at the back of the farm-house, on
the top of a steep bank, but there is nothing about it exter-
nally to excite interest. At first I conjectured the eminence
to be a justice mound, but upon enquiry this proved fallacious,
for there is good authority for supposing that it is an ancient
barrow or tumulus, beneath which the dead of some forgotten
conflict lie buried. Some years ago several stone coffins were
discovered in a field on the farm of Waterpark in the parish
of Kilmaurs. The newspaper account of the discovery, from
which I quote, goes on to say : — " These graves have been
found within the circuit of one of three large barrows or
tumulii, situated on either bank of the Carmel water ; the
tumulus to which they pertain being, as already stated, upon
Waterpark Farm, and the others being situated upon Green-
hill farm — the most remarkable of the three, indeed, being
close to Greenhill farmhouse. The surface being now pared
from the Waterpark Cairn, it presents the usual aggregation
of stones piled over the forgotten dead of ancient times."
After chatting some time with the occupants of the farm, I
resumed my homeward journey, and sped on my way, up hill
and down dale, until I came within sight of the town, and as

180 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

I stood on the high ground looking down into the valley
where it nestles, the following lines of M'Queen of Barkip
came to mind : —

" There stands the town — populous and dense,
The monstrous, moving, and promiscuous mass
Of all that's evil and of all that's good.
There vice and virtue, ignorance and pride,
Learning, humility, justice, and gross fraud,
Stern avarice and sympathy benign
Dwell with each other 'neath one common roof ;
And there, too, wealth and deepest misery
Eush side by side, like two twin sister streams.
Meet, mix, and mingle, and yet, strange to tell,
Break not each other's surface, but remain
Like oil and water pour'd in the same glass,
Distinctly separate as they ne'er had met."

Passing Bonnyton Square, I soon gained Portland Street, and
mingled v/ith the jostling throng.

CHAPTEE XIV.

From Kilmarnock to Grougar — The Ruins of Tammie Raeburn's Cottage —
His self-imposed vow, personal appearance, courtship, witticisms,
etc. — Grougar Row — Loudoun Kirk — The Queir — Lady Flora Has-
tings— Her melancholy death — The character of her Poems — Janet
Little, the poetical correspondent of Robert Burns — George Palmer —
An obscure Covenanter — A relic of Loudoun Kirk.

ONE Saturday morning while aimlessly straying through
the town I resolved to retire from its noise and bustle for a
space and seek the quietude of the country. .For this purpose
I crossed Green Bridge, and after a short walk arrived at
Holehouse road. Turning into it, I entered the first road on
the right and held onward. This road — as the reader in all
probability is aware — runs between Kilmarnock and Loudoun
Kirk, and is one of the good old undulating sort that winds
over heights and hollows in such a manner that the pedestrian
meets with a good deal of ups and downs while traversing it.
Any little toil, however, that I encountered during my
walk was amply repaid by the extensive and beautiful
views obtained of the valley of the Irvine, and of the ever-
memorable district,

" Where Loudoun Hill rears high its conic form,
And bares its rocky bosom to the storm."

From Bonnyhill, where the view is exceptionally fine, a lengthy
walk brought me to the Irvine, at a point where it sweeps
round a curve and tears along its channel through some
beautiful scenery from which it emerges triumphantly, and
passes placidly on its way to the sea. From the margin of
the river the road diverges and becomes somewhat steep for a
short distance. Along it, on the brow of a hill, a little off the
highway, stands the beautiful villa of Mr. John Murray,
factor for Grougar, and in the hollow behind, concealed from
view, the ruin of the humble cottage of Tammie liaeburn, the
Ayrshire Hermit. Being anxious to visit what was at one
time the residence of a peculiarly interesting personage, I
climbed over a field gate and Alighted in a kind of roadway

182 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

which runs along the side of a hedge and terminates in a small
holm. Rounding a turn of the path the roofless, ruinous
domicile suddenly came into view — a circumstance that caused
me to pause and ruminate upon the changed scene before me.
Where now, I asked myself, are the swains and braw lasses
who made this hollow ring with their laughter and daffing
glee forty years ago 1 Some are removed far from the
place of their nativity, others slumber in the lethe of death,
and the few living are wrinkled with care and fast hastening
to " the bourne from whence no traveller returns." I found
two gables of the cottage entire, but the back and front walls
much broken down, and the interior strewed with the debris,
out of which grew tall nettles and rank weeds. The tresseled
ivy twined fantastically about one of the gables, and clutched
the tottering stones with its tendrils, as if anxious to hold the
fabric together. The eccentric Thomas Raeburn, whose
memory gives to the ruin a kind of interest, died on the 23rd
of June, 1843, in the 74th year of his age, after spending the
greater part of his life in the fulfilment of a foolish self -im-
posed vow which he rigorously kept until the day of his
death. He now sleeps in Stewarton Kirkyard, but his
name and personal appearance will long be spoken of, and
numerous anecdotes of him will form the subject of many
a story at firesides in town and country. Raeburn inherited
the house and a few acres of land, which constituted his
farm, from his father. Curiously enough the small property
was surrounded by that of other people, and there
was no direct road into it save one through a field
belonging to a neighbour. This the neighbour closed, and
forbade Raeburn to use it; but Raeburn, imagining that "use
and wont" constituted a right to continue what had been a
privilege, went to law, lost the case, and was mulcted in heavy
expenses. The result of the trial so preyed upon his mind
that he became morose and gloomy, for lie believed that justice
had not been meted out, and that the judge had dealt harshly
with him. In this frame of mind he took a solemn vow upon
himself that he would never shave his beard, cut his hair, or
renew his clothing until he received his rights. In course of
time he became an odd-looking personage. His hair grew
Jong and matted, and his beard, which was unkempt, hung in
long tangled masses down his breast. His clothes, too, in

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. 183

course of time lost their identity, and became so patched and
darned that it was ultimately a matter of difficulty to discover
an original piece of any garment. Naturally enough such a
peculiar individual attracted many visitors from all parts of
the country, but more so from Kilmarnock — a favourite rural
walk with young people of both sexes being from the town to
Tammie's residence and back. He was of a parsimonious,
money-loving disposition, lived sparingly, and drank nothing
but water when bacchanalian cheer was not supplied to him
gratis or procured without making a call on his purse. Tarnmie
was never married, although in early life he had a desire of
being so to the daughter of a neighbouring farmer who had
attracted his attention at church. Peeps at her charms during
the hours of divine service did not satisfy the would-be suitor
long, for he resolved to call at the farm and offer the maiden
his hand and heart. With this object in view he dressed
himself in his Sunday clothes one fine day and set out to her
residence, fully sensible of the delicate nature of his mission.
With a palpitating heart he knocked at .the door. It was
opened by his affianced, who enquiringly looked, as if anxious
to ascertain his business. Tammie stared at her, but not a word
could he utter. Ultimately, by a prodigious effort, he managed
to stammer out — " Could ye tell me the road to Finnick ?"
The nymph gave the required information, and so ended the
only courtship that he was ever known to engage in. After
this event an old woman kept house for him, and managed
his dairy, for he kept several cows and was famed for making
cheese of an excellent quality. Tammie welcomed visitors of
all grades to his residence, and was ever ready to crack a
joke, and that as often as possible at their expense;
but these were mostly tame and childish, savouring
more of catches than witticisms. For instance, upon being
asked if his clock was with the town, he replied in a self-
satisfied manner — " No, it's twa mile an' a half aff it." If a
visitor asked to light his pipe, he was generally told by the
"hermit" that "There's no as muckle fire in the house as wad
licht a pipe, but ye may licht yer tobacco." Upon being asked if
he was ever drunk, he replied — "There's naebody wi' a throat
big enough to swallow the like o' me." Tammie had a strange
influence over the feathered tribe. Often for the gratification
of visitors he would go into his garden and cry " Bobbie,

184 EAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

bobbie ;" then place a small piece of bread between his lips
and stand still until a robin would alight upon his beard,
take the morsel from his mouth, and fly off to a neighbour-
ing bough with the prize. To accommodate visitors he dealt
in lemonade and ginger-beer, and occasionally in a more
stimulating beverage. This infringement of the excise law,
however, did not go unpunished, for upon one occasion he was
convicted and fined in twenty-five pounds. Raeburn has
passed away. The wealth he so avariciously scraped together
was divided amongst his relations, the trees of his orchard
have been cut down, and his bit farm is now included in the
estate of Grougar. His parsimony would not allow him to
enjoy life, and he, I have no doubt, assumed eccentricities
with a desire to appear odd, and ultimately because it brought
in the bawbees.

Leaving the shattered hermitage I crossed a stubble field
and strolled up the river bank. Passing Milton Mill I re-
gained the highway, and after a brisk walk arrived at Grougar
liow — a collection of miners' dwellings remarkable for nothing
save the number of rosy-cheeked children sporting in
front of them as happy and as frolicsome as fairies. It is
somewhat curious that wherever working- people are located
bairns are plentiful. Were they a source of wealth, as they
are said to be in some parts of the globe, how well off many a
poor man would be. Beyond the Row, stately trees line the
road for some considerable distance, and render the walk a
pleasant one. I enjoyed it immensely, and arrived at
Loudoun Ivirkyard well satisfied with the scene through
which I passed. The gate was locked, and by the long
rank grass that grew about the entrance it was evident that
it had not been opened for some time. In a dilemma I eyed
the wall, but abandoned the idea of climbing by turning into
a side road where I observed a cottage. Passing it I stopped
before the entrance to a neat garden where roses and flowers
of various hues luxuriantly bloomed, and beautified the spot.
Venturing within the flowery threshold, I was met by a
motherly middle-aged woman, who kindly directed me through
the garden to a little wicket which opened into the churchyard.
This lady afterwards proved to be the occupant of the cottage, .
and the daughter of the late James JSlsbet, who was sexton of
Loudoun churchyard for a long series of years, and on that

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. 185

account is invaluable to the visitor, as she is well versed in
the antiquities of the burial place and the lore of the district.
The ancient place of sepulture is surrounded by a wall and a
row of sombre trees, through which the passing wind soughs
as if mournfully sighing for the oblivious dead mouldering
beneath their shade. Its interior is unadorned with
shrubbery, and the headstones and monuments are few and
scattered, but in the absence of pompous decoration, Nature
has spread a grassy coverlet over the spot, and on the
occasion of my visit it was decked with gowans, butter-
cups, and a variety of wild flowers, which she scatters
so profusely over hill and dale. In the centre stands
a meagre remnant of Loudoun Kirk, consisting of one gable
and a portion called the " queir," which has been used as the
Loudoun family sepulchre from a very early date. The kirk
was erected in 1451 by a donation to the monks of Kilwin-
ning by the lady of Sir John Campbell. The queir has a very
ancient appearance, and is embellished with the Loudoun
family arms and other curious devices. In the back wall
there is a small grated window which I looked through until
my eyes became accustomed to the internal gloom and re-
vealed to me the outlines of several coffins on the floor, whose
mountings glistened in the faint light and whose appearance
caused a strange shudder to thrill my frame. These encase-
ments were all renewed some years ago, the old ones having
become so decayed that they had fallen to pieces. Within
the queir rests the mortal remains of the gifted but unfortunate
Lady Flora Hastings. When one of the ladies of the bed-
chamber to H.E.H. the Duchess of Kent, a most cruel
and unmerited slander was raised against her, which so
preyed upon her mind and wounded her feelings that she
died of a broken heart in Buckingham Palace in July,
1839. Nearly the whole nation at the time deeply sympa-
thised with her, and greatly deplored her untimely end. By
her request her remains were conveyed to Loudoun and de-
posited alongside those of generations of her ancestors. The
body was followed to its last resting place by her mother (the
Dowager Marchioness), her sisters and brothers, and other
relations of her family, and also by many parishioners who
felt a deep commiseration for her. The mother survived her
favourite daughter for little over a year, and it is believed that

186 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

the melancholy circumstances which accelerated her daughter's
death hastened her own. Lady Flora was an accomplished
poetess, and shortly after her decease her poems, which are
distinguished by much purity of thought, sweetness and
grace, were collected and published. An able reviewer has
said that " such a deep love for the beautiful, the exalted,
and the holy reigns throughout them all, that it is impossible
to repel the conviction that her actions accorded with her
words, and that her words gave but the utterance to the calm
and sinless feelings of her heart."

" 0, ill befa' the raven wing

That brake her harp o' gouden string!
The dove-like harp whose siller lays
Pour'd music sweet on Loudoun braes."

From the queir I turned my attention to the little burying-
place and the unassuming memorials it contains. Near to its
door the oldest stone in the yard is to be met with. It
is embellished with masonic emblems^ and is to the memory
of " Matho Fultun, maister mason — ane richt honest man
who died in the year of God 1632." There are some verses
in its centre which are most difficult to make out, but
the gist of them is that Matho went to his grave as
to his bed, with the intention of rising at the resurrection.
The stone is very curious, and well worth the attention of
those who are expert at deciphering semi-obliterated inscrip-
tions. A few yards from this, and near to the ivy-
mantled gable of the auld Kirk, a plain slab marks the
spot where lie the remains of Janet Little, the celebrated
poetical correspondent of Eobert Burns. It bears the follow-
ing inscription : — " In memory of John Richmond, who died
August 10, 1819, aged 78 years ; and Janet Little, his spouse,
who died March 15, 1818, aged 54 years, and five of their
children." Janet Little, authoress of a poetical work which
never gained any great or lasting popularity, spent her early
years about Ecclefechan, and came to serve in the capacity of
a domestic servant in the family of Mrs Henrie, a daughter
of Mrs Dtinlop of Dunlop, the distinguished friend of the
poet Burns, who rented London Castle during the years
1788 — 89. While in their service, she met with a volume of
the bard's poems, and seemingly was so enraptured with its
contents that she conceived a partiality for the author and

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. 187

wrote him a poetical address, which she forwarded along with
a letter of explanation. A few verses from it may not be out
of place : —

" Fair fa' the honest rustic swain,
The pride o' a' our Scottish plain ;
Thou gi'es us joy to hear thy strain,
And notes sae sweet ;
Old Ramsay's shade reviv'd again
In thee we greet.

" Lov'd Thalia, that delightfu' muse,
Seem'd long shut up in a recluse ;
To all she did her aid refuse

Since Allan's day ;
'Till Burns arose, then did she chuse

To grace thy lay.

" To hear thy sang all ranks desire,
Sae weel you strike the dormant lyre
Apollo with poetic fire

Thy breast does warm ;
An' critics silently admire

Thy art to charm.

" Caesar and Luath weel can speak —
'Tis pity e'er their gabs should steek,
But into human nature keek,

And knots unravel ;

To hear their lectures once a week

Nine miles I travel."

Near to Janet's grave, there is a handsome monument erected
"by the parishioners of Loudoun as a tribute to the memory of
their late pastor, the Eev. James Allan, who died 1st June,
1864; and at a short distance from it a stone, unassuming in
appearance, to the memory of Margaret Reid (spouse to John
Campbell, smith, Alton), who died December, 27th, 1821,
aged 65 years. It bears the following reminder to the passer
by:-

" Time was I was as thou art now,

Looking o'er the dead as thou dost me ;
Ere long thou'lt lie as low as I,

And others stand and look o'er thee."

Upon reading these rude lines I leaned on my staff and
mused, " for other feet will tread the street a hundred years
to come," and we will rest from our labours forgotten. In
life death is feared, and its approach dreaded, because of its

188 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

mystery ; but could we penetrate the gloom of the grave,
perchance we would hail the dread spectre with as much joy
as the tempest-tossed mariner does the sight of his native
shore.

In the vicinity of the last named stone, there is a very
handsome one of recent erection bearing the following in-
scription : — " Erected by Helen Fulton, in memory of her
husband, George Palmer, who died 26th May, 1874, aged 77
years. He was teacher of the Free School, Kilmarnock, for
31 years. His duties, discharged with conscientious diligence,
gained the entire approbation of its directors. He was a man
of rare abilities, breathed the very spirit of the Gospel, lived
its life, and his end was peace." The name of George Palmer
will be familiar to many elderly natives of Kilmarnock, and
on this account the sleeper 'neath the green turf deserves
more than a passing notice. Born of parents who belonged
to that class designated " the industrious poor," he was early
apprenticed to the loom, and continued at it until well up in
manhood. Being possessed of a fine intellect, he thirsted after
knowledge and gradually acquired an education that fitted
him for a better position. During the Radical years he
zealously entered into politics, and being gifted with a calm,
discriminating mind, and power of language, he soon became
a leading spirit amongst those who were infected with
similar opinions. To be a Eadical, especially an intelligent
one, was to be a marked man, and the subject of this notice
began to be looked upon as a dangerous individual by the
authorities, and, with many others, was apprehended on the
night of the 14th of April, 1820, when a regiment of
Yeomanry Cavalry invaded Kilmarnock. When made pris-
oner, Bailie Porteous, who accompanied the captors, searched
his house, and when rummaging through his desk, remarked,
" George, you are a beautiful writer." Perhaps this incident
had something to do with his future prosperity, for it was this
veritable Bailie who introduced him to the Free School.
After suffering three months' imprisonment in Ayr Jail, he
was discharged without a trial, and returned home to abandon
politics for matters of a more profitable nature. Shortly
afterwards he received the appointment to the Free School,
and after labouring in it for thirty years was granted by the
directors a retiring salary, which he enjoyed for nearly twenty

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. 189

years. Mr Palmer was the author of several school manuals,
and contributed to the local papers. For a long period he
was an. elder in King Street Church. When he retired from
public life he settled in Gals ton, and became a member,
and ultimately an elder, in the church of the Rev. Mr
Matthewson. He fought the good fight, and closed a life of
usefulness at a ripe old age. Besides the stones noticed here
at random, there are several others both ancient and modem
that will prove very interesting to the visitor. One near the
little gate that I noticed when leaving the churchyard I can-
not omit. It bears the device of a cross and crown, and,
the following inscription : — " Here lies Thomas Flemming of
Loudoun Hill, who, for his appearance in arms in his own
defence, and in the defence of the Gospel, according to the
obligations of our National Covenants and agreeable to the
Word of God, was shot in an encounter at Drumclog, 1st
June, 1679, by bloody Graham of Claverhouse." Nothing
seems to be known of Thomas Flemming further than what
the inscription tells. His name does not occur in Wodrow
or any other work I have met with.

When leaving the secluded burying place, Mrs Semple, the
occupant of the cottage already mentioned, showed me a relic of
Loudoun Kirk in the shape of a moderately-sized bell, which,
tradition states, was sent from Holland as a present to the
parishioners by James second Earl of Loudoun, eldest son of
the Lord Chancellor. It was anciently the custom to toll
this bell in front of funeral processions on their way to the
churchyard ; but it has been discontinued, and the relic is
now a curiosity. The words '" Loudoun Kirk " is cast upon
it in raised letters.

CHAPTEE XV.

The Policies of Loudoun Castle — The external and internal appearance of
the Building — The Family Portraits— The Library— The old Yew
Tree — The Loudoun Family, and salient points in the History of
some of its Members — The old Castle of Loudoun — Its destruction by
the Kennedys, &c.

From Loudoun Kirk I passed along a very romantic
road, and after a sharp but pleasant walk arrived at the
entrance gate of Loudoun Castle. The policies are thickly
wooded, exquisitely picturesque, and possessed of a wild
romantic beauty that charms the eye and thrills with ecstasy
the lover of romantic scenery. Throughout the estate there are
very many aged trees of symmetrical loveliness, whose gnarled
arms in the vernal season of the year are almost hid from
view by wealth of foliage. These monarchs of the lawn and
dark wood are mementos of that enterprising and zealous
nobleman, John, fourth Earl of Loudoun, who is said to
have greatly improved the estate and imparted to it its sylvan
beauty by planting upwards of one million trees Avhich he
collected from all parts of the globe. The drive to the castle
is lined on each side by a neat grass border and by stately
trees, which shadow the path with their leafy boughs. Ad-
miringly viewing it, I stood in the roadway irresolutely
scratching my head, for I felt somewhat perplexed upon this
occasion as to the ways and means of gaining admittance to
the castle and grounds. Summoning up courage, and putting
on an air of importance, I passed through the gate without
being stopped or questioned by the people in the lodge, and
on and on until I came within sight of the imposing and
magnificent mansion of the Loudoun family. Through the
trees on my left I observed the neat villa of Mr. Robert
Mackie, the manager of the estate, and from that quarter
feared an abrupt termination to my explorations, but in this
I was agreeably disappointed.

Arriving at the castle, I was struck by its massive appear-
ance, and was delighted to find upon examination that it

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. 191

combines the gracefulness of modern architecture with the
massive strength of early times. One turreted, battlemented,
square tower was erected in the twelfth century, and another
which overlooks the entire building in the fifteenth. To these
antiquated structures Sir John Campbell who was created Lord
Chancellor in 1642, made an extensive addition, and in 1811
the whole was augmented by a large and stately portion, which
gives to the pile quite a palatial appearance. The interior is
fitted up with great magnificence and sumptuously furnished,
the walls of the principal apartments being literally covered
with finely executed portraits of the Loudoun and Rowallan
families. Some of these paintings are very old and recall to
one's mind many stirring events in the good old days when
plain speaking and hard blows were in fashion, and when
the four feet of cold steel which dangled by every gallant's
side was used to enforce arguments and settle differences.
Among the family likenesses a portrait of Charles I. is very
interesting at this date on account of its disfigurement.
When the castle was besieged by Cromwell's soldiers it hung
in the gallery, and after the capitulation of Lady Loudoun —
who defended the place right gallantly — formed an object for
the soldiers, who ransacked the rooms whereon to vent their
contempt for his Majesty by making thrusts at his picture
with their swords — a pastime, no doubt, which was well
seasoned with jokes and laughter. The library is very exten-
sive and contains nearly 10,000 volumes, besides ancient
manuscripts, some of which are very curious. Close to the
castle wall grows a patriarchal yew tree of unknown antiquity.
Under its deep shade, in the time of "William the Lion, one of the
family charters was signed, and Avhen the union between Scot-
land and England was entered into, Lord Hugh Campbell of
Loudoun subscribed the articles beneath its umbrageous boughs.
During the reign of Charles II., when James, second Earl of
Loudoun, was banished to Holland, he held secret communi-
cation with his lady, and addressed his letters " to the gude
wife at the Auldton, at the old yew tree, Loudoun, Scotland."
The aged veteran at this day looks healthy and strong, and
appears to be as capable of withstanding the blasts of another
century as any tree on the estate.

No family in Ayrshire can boast of a more lengthened
possession of their property or a more honourable pedigree

192 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

than that of Loudoun. About the year 1189 the barony was
granted to James, son of Lambrinus, by Richard de Morville,
overlord of the district of Cuniughame and minister of
"William the Lion. At his death he left an only daughter,
who married Sir Reginald de Craufurd, hereditary Sheriff of
Ayrshire, and by him had four sons, from one of whom are
descended the Craufuvds of Craufurdland. Their great-
grand-daughter (Margaret, only child of Hugh de Craufurd)
married Sir Malcolm Wallace of Ellerslie, and was mother of
Sir "William "Wallace, the famous hero. In the fifth genera-
tion the ancestral line of the Craufurds of Loudoun terminated
in the only daughter of a Sir Reginald, who fell in battle in
1303 while fighting for Scottish independence. This lady
married Sir Duncan Campbell of Lochow, and from this
union sprang the first Campbells of Loudoun. In the
twelith generation the Lochow Campbells were merged into
those of Lawers by the marriage of Margaret, Baroness of
Loudoun, with Sir John Campbell in 1620. In the fifth
generation the Lawers Campbells terminated in Flora Mure,
Countess of Loudoun, who married in 1804 Francis Rawdon
Hastings, Earl of Moira. In 1816 he was created
a British Peer by the title of Marquis of Hastings, Viscount
of Loudoun, etc. He was Governor of India and Com-
mander-in-Chief of Malta. He died in 1836, and was
succeeded in the Loudoun estate by his descendants, in whose
possession it now is.

Perhaps it may not be out of place here to notice the
salient points in the history of some members of the Loudoun
family. Sir John Campbell of Lawers, who was created Earl
of Loudoun, Tarrinzean, and Mauchline in 1633, and after-
wards Lord Chancellor of Scotland, was a staunch Covenanter,
and acted a conspicuous part in the stirring events of his
time. He distinguished himself in 1637 by his active resist-
ance to the ill-judged and unconstitutional attempt of Charles
I. to force Episcopacy upon Scotland. He was one of the
commissioners from the Scots army who settled the pacifica-
tion of Berwick with Charles I. in 1639, and was subse-
quently committed to the Tower on a charge of high treason.
After remaining there for some time, he was, through the in-
fluence of the Marquis of Hamilton, liberated. He commanded
the Scots army at the Battle of Newburn, and was afterwards

RAMBLES ROUND KILMA.RXOCK. 193

appointed First Commissioner of the Treasury, with a yearly
pension of £1000. After taking an active share in the Civil
War at the Eestoration he was deprived of the office of
Chancellor, and fined 12,000 pounds Scots. He died in 1652,
and is interred in the queir of Loudoun Kirk. The third Earl
of Loudoun was a Privy Councillor in 1697, and was appointed
in 1 704 one of the Commissioners of the Treasury, and made
a Knight of the Thistle. In the following year he was ap-
pointed joint Secretary of State for Scotland, and named one
of the commissioners for the Union. In 1708 he was ap-
pointed keeper of the great seal in Scotland, with a pension
of £2000 a year. In 1715 he was made Lord Lieutenant of
Argyleshire, and served as a volunteer under the Duke of
Argyle at Sheriffmuir. He was also one of the sixteen Scots
representative peers from 1707 to 1731. His countess was a
remarkable woman, having greatly improved the grounds
around her residence at Sorn Castle, where she died in her
hundredth year. Their only son John — the fourth Earl of
Loudoun — was a distinguished military officer, and sat as a
representative peer for forty-eight years. He was a staunch
royalist, and in 1745 raised a regiment of highlanders for
the service of government, and on the breaking out of the
rebellion of that year joined Sir John Cope, under whom he
acted as adjutant-general. After taking part in the high-
land campaign, he was appointed captain-general and
governor-in-chief of the province of Virginia, and was con-
stituted commander-in-chief of all the British forces in
America. Although thus busily engaged abroad, he was the
first agricultural improver of the district of Loudoun. In
1740 he commenced operations by making roads through the
parish and causing a bridge to be built over the Irvine. He
was also a vigorous planter and encloser, and was the first to
introduce foreign trees into the West of Scotland ; in fact,
he may be said to have bequeathed to Loudoun braes that
sylvan beauty for which they are so justly celebrated.
During his time ten entire swivel brass cannon marked
with the Campbell arms were discovered near to the
castle, buried some two feet below the surface of the
ground, but how they came to be there was never ascertained.
This enterprising nobleman died in 1782, aged seventy-seven
years.

N

194 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

After lingering about Loudoun Castle for some time I
entered the principal avenue and leisurely strolled in the
direction of jNewmilns. Now the path would pass through
a strip of wood and be darkened by the foliage of stately
trees, then it would emerge into the open glade and wind
along a verdant bank, or down a dell and over a burnie,
bickering amongst the brackens. At a shady nook by the
side of a little streamlet, a good half-mile distant from the
castle, I diverged from the path, passed over the brow of a
well-wooded bank, and arrived at the brink of a broad gully
which partly encircled a rugged and almost unascendable
mound. Descending the chasm, I with difficulty reached the
bottom and passed through a luxuriant crop of nettles and
up the opposite bank, a feat accomplished by laying hold
of whatever would assist my ascent. Gaining the summit,
several half-buried blocks of masonry and portions of foun-
dations made known that I stood on the site of the old castle
of Loudoun — a building which was anterior to any portion
of the present magnificent structure. Regarding its history
there is nothing authentic known, but it is preserved in the
traditional mind that it was burned by the clan Kennedy
during a fray. This is very probable, and is partly borne
out by the fact that a family on the estate, who have occu-
pied their farm for centuries, claim descent from a noble
liegeman, who at the risk of life and limb dashed into the
burning pile in spite of chief and clansmen and dragged
forth the charter chest of the Loudoun family and bore it
off in triumph. This family tradition is somewhat strength-
ened by history, for a deadly feud existed between the
Campbells of Loudoun and the Kennedies of Carrick about
the year 1527. During a foray which the former made into
the territory of the latter, the Earl of Cassillis was slain, but
to avenge his death the Kennedies entered the district of the
Campbells on several occasions and laid it waste by fire and
sword ; therefore it is possible that during one of these raids
the old castle was attacked and left a smoking ruin. A
ballad, from which I make the following extract, was at one
time very popular in the district, but as it ascribes the
burning of the castle to "Adam o' Gordon and his men," it
is probably an adaptation, for it is well known that the
wandering minstrels of old, by changing the names of per-

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARXOCK. 195

sons and places, adapted their lays to suit similar incidents in,
different localities : —

Out then spake the Lady Margaret,

As she stood upon the stair —
The fire was at her goud garters,

The low was at her hair —

" I would give the black," she says,
" And so would I the brown,
For a drink o' yon water
That runs by Galston toun. "

Out then spake fair Annie,

She was baith gimp and sma',
" 0 row me in a pair o' sheets,

And tow me doun the wa'."

" 0 hold thy tongue, thou fair Annie,

And let thy talkin' be,
For thou must stay in this fair castle,

And bear thy death with me. "

" I would rather be burnt to ashes sma',

And be cast on yon sea foam,
Before I'd give up this fair castle,

And my lord so far from home.

" My good lord has an army strong,

He's now gone o'er the sea,
He bade me keep this gay castle
As long as it would keep me.

' ' I've four-and -twenty braw milk kye

Gangs on yon lily lee,
I'd give them a' for a blast of wind
To blaw the reek from me."

0 pittie on yon fair castle,

That's built o' stone and lime,
But far mair pittie for Lady Loudoun,

And all her children nine.

The scenery in the vicinity of the mound is wild and
romantic. After gazing upon it for some time I reluctantly
left the spot, and returned to the avenue with my mind made
up to go as far as Newniilns, for, as the reader is prohably
aware, the principal drive through the policies of Loudoun
Castle merges into a road which terminates in the ancient
village.

CHAPTEE XVI.

Loudoun Braes — Newmilns, its appearance, history, and trade — The
Radical proclivities of the inhabitants — The old Tower and incidents
associated with it — The Parish Church — Norman Macleocl — The
Churchyard — Interesting Tombstones commemorative of Nisbet of
Hardhill and other Covenanting natives of the Parish who suffered
during the Persecution — The Workmen's Institute — "The Lass o'
Patie's Mill"

BEYOND the site of the old castle the path gradually loses
its sylvan beauty and merges into a rough, undulating road
which winds over braes that called forth the admiration and
awakened the muse of the sweet singer, Tannahill. Since
his day they have lost none of their, attractions, but appear
as verdant and picturesque as they did when he strayed over
their heathy summits admiring " Loudoun's bonnie woods,"
and possibly planning the song which has given them a
world-wide celebration. Straying onward, viewing the
classical scenery and the finely-wooded slopes of Lanfine,
which rise abruptly from the vale lying between it and the
Loudoun estate, a walk of some two miles brought me to a
turn where the hedge-bordered road ran through a glade and
shortly afterwards abruptly terminated at a spot called Bore
Brae. From the summit of the brae the spectator looks down
upon Newmilns, which lies at his feet in a narrow vale
through which the river Irvine winds serpent-like as it
passes by the quaint village and through scenery whose mag-
nificence calls forth the admiration of every visitant.

" There as I pass'd with careless steps and slow,
The mingling notes came soften'd from below;
The swain responsive as the milk-maid sung,
The sober herd that lowed to meet their young,
The noisy geese that gabbled o'er the pool,
The playful children just let loose from school,
The watch-dog's voice that bayed the whispering wind,
And the loud laugh that spoke the vacant mind,"

"in sweet confusion" smote my ear as I looked down upon
the picturesquely-situated hamlet. JSIo stately building save

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. 197

the Parish Church, which is topped with a beautiful spire,
greets the eye, the village being composed nearly wholly of
humble, unostentatious buildings, primitive alike in construc-
tion and appearance, and totally destitute of architectural
beauty. But humble as it is, it has a history which dates
back to a very remote period, it having been a place of some
little importance when Kilmarnock Avas an obscure village,
and when other towns which surpass it in elegance and
importance were almost unknown. A royal charter under
the superiority of the Earls of Loudoun was conferred upon
it in the reign of James IV., but how it began to be is a
matter of uncertainty. Possibly it grew up in the vicinity of
grain mills erected on the bank of the river, for its water at
this date drives the wheels of not a few as it courses to the
sea.* The inhabitants have always been noted for their
Radical proclivities, and not a few of them have suffered for
their enthusiasm in the cause of reform. Several suffered
death and many underwent imprisonment for standing up
in defence of the Solemn League and Covenant during the
troublous times of the persecution ; and during the Radical
period they were so much dreaded by the Government that a
detachment of soldiers was placed in the village to keep them
in order, it being considered one of the greatest hotbeds of
Radicalism in the country. Newmilns of to-day contains a
population of 3028. The inhabitants are mostly engaged in
muslin-weaving, and the music of the shuttle has a merry
echo in its streets, but it is a wretchedly remunerative em-
ployment, the industrious workman being able to earn little
over a bare subsistence.

Strolling down Bore Brae, I entered the main street of the
village, and found it to be broad and respectable, although
somewhat rustic in appearance. Partly concealed behind
some houses on its north side, I discovered the oldest building
in the place, which consists of a massive square tower of
some historic interest, being at one time a residence of the
Loudoun familyt and at another the headquarters of Captain

* Sir Hugh Campbell of Loudoun had a charter of the lands of Newmilns, with
the mill and granary, dated 4th October, 1533.— Paterson's Ayrshire Families.

t The Master of Loudoun died in March, 1612. His latter will was made at
" the Newmylnes, the sevint day of Merche." His lady also died the same month
and year. Her latter will was made also at " Newmylnes, the penult day of
Merche." They seem thus to have resided at the tower of Newmilns. — Ibid.

198 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

Inglis, a notorious scourge of the Covenanters, who, as related
in a former chapter, surprised the men who had met in Little
Blackwood for devotional purposes.

The writer of the Loudoun article in the Statistical Account
in mentioning this tower says — " In one of the expeditions
of Inglis's troops in the search of conventicals, eight men
who were discovered praying in the Blackwood, near Kilmar-
nock, were taken prisoners. One of them, it is said, was
immediately executed, and the soldiers in mockery kicked
his head for a football along the Newmilns public green.
Inglis was about to shoot the others when it was suggested
to him that it would be prudent to get a written order from
Edinburgh for their execution. The seven men in the
meantime were confined in the old tower. But while the
troop was absent on one of its bloody raids, with the excep-
tion of a small guard, a man named Browning, from Lantine,
with others who had been with him at Aird's Moss, got large
pledge hammers from the old smithy (still in existence), with
which they broke open the prison doors and permitted the
Covenanters to escape. John Law (brother-in-law to Captain
Nisbet) was shot in this exploit, and is buried close to the
wall of the tower. The dragoons soon went in pursuit of the
prisoners, but they had reached the heather, and where no
cavalry could pursue them. The soldiers, however, having
ascertained that John Smith of Croonan had given the run-
aways food went to Smith's house, and meeting him at his
own door shot him dead! \\ithin a short period
his grave was to be seen in the garden of the old farm-
house."

Tradition states that only one soldier played football with
the martyr's head, and that shortly afterwards he fell from
the top of the tower into the court below and broke his neck
—a fit consummation certainly to a heartless villain's life.
Set into the gable of an old thatched house near the tower
there is a tablet to the memory of the man who was shot
when assisting to set the prisoners at liberty. It bears the
following inscription: — " Eenewt-d in 1822. Here lies John
Law, who was shot at Xewmilns, at the relieving of eight of
Christ's prisoners who were taken at a meeting for prayer at
Little Blackwood, in the parish of Kilmarnock, in April,
1 685, by Captain Inglis and his party, for their adherence

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. 199

to the Word of God and Scotland's covenanted work of
Reformation.

" Cause I Christ's prisoners relieved
I of my life was soon bereaved,
By cruel enemies with rage,
In that encounter did engage;
The martyr's honour and his crown
Bestowed on me ! 0 high renown !
That I should not only believe,
But for Christ's cause my life should give." t

The old tower at this epoch of civil and religious liberty is
untenanted, but its rooms are occasionally made to ring by the
JNewmilns Brass Band, who use it to practise in. It has also
been used as the village jail, and at one time pigeons were
kept in it, which circumstance gave to it the name of " the
dookit," a term by which it is locally spoken of.

From the tower I passed over to the Parish Church, a
handsome building with a beautiful spire. It stands in an
old burying-ground, and occupies the site of a former and
much smaller place of worship, which a wag states was
thrown through the windows of the new erection. I gained
admittance to the burying-ground by a side door, and to the-
church by the kindness of an elderly woman who was engaged
dusting out the sanctuary. Internally it is commodious and
neatly fi tted-up, and contains a beautiful white marble monu-
mental tablet which bears the following inscription : — " In
memory of Norman Macleod, D.D., one of Her Majesty's
Chaplains for Scotland, and Dean of the Knights of the
Order of the Thistle. Ordained to the charge of the Parish
of Loudoun, 15th March, 1838; translated to Dalkeith, 15th
December, 1843; and to Barony Parish, Glasgow, 17th July,
1851. Moderator of General Assembly in 1869. Died 16th
June, 1872. 'Blessed are the dead which die in the Lord.
They rest from their labours, and their works do follow them.' "
Norman Macleod was too popular as a preacher, an author,
and an editor to render any remarks of mine necessaiy, but I
cannot refrain from stating that he was the most liberal-
minded clergyman I ever knew ; good words flowed from his
lips, and Avhat left his pen will form a valuable addition to
the literature of our country.

The churchyard, although small and unkept, contains
several interesting tombstones which commemorate martyrs

200 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARXOCK.

to the cause of liberty. The first I met with bore the follow-
ing inscription : — " To the memory of John Nisbet of Hard-
hill, who suffered martyrdom at the Grassmarket, Edinburgh,
4th December, 1685. Animated by a spirit to which genuine
religion alone could give birth, the pure flame of civil and
religious liberty alone could keep alive. He manfully
struggled for a series of years to stem the tide of national
degeneracy, and liberate his country from the tyrannical
aggressions of the perjured house of Stewart. His conduct
in arms at Pentland, Drumclog, and Bothwell Bridge, in
opposition to prelatic encroachments and in defence of Scot-
land's Covenanted Reformation, is recorded in the annals of
those oppressive times. His remains lie at Edinburgh, but
the inhabitants of his native parish, and friends to the cause
for which he fought and died, have caused this stone to be
erected."

John Nisbet of Hardhill — an account of whose capture is
given in a former chapter — was born in Newmilns about the
year 1627. When Claverhouse was advancing the Covenant-
ing army at Drumclog, a message was despatched to Hardhill
to apprise him of the fact and induce him to join the little
band. Although he had suffered much from prelatic
persecution he hesitated not a moment, but mounted a horse
and rode with all possible speed to the scene of action,
merely stopping on his way through Darvel to induce John
Morton, the village blacksmith, to accompany him and assist
with his brawny arm to discomfit the foe. Both arrived on
the field in time to be of immense service to the Covenanters,
for they fell into their ranks in time to take part in the
successful charge which decided the fate of the battle. In
the thick of the fight, the smith encountered a dragoon who
was entangled in the trappings of his wounded horse, and
was about to dispatch him, but being moved by the man's
piteous appeal for mercy, he disarmed him and led him from
the field a prisoner. Many of the Covenanters, however,
were not so humane, for they demanded that the dragoon
should be put to death, on the ground that he was an enemy
to their cause. This the smith strongly objected to, and de-
clared that whoever touched a hair of his head he would cut
down, for having given the man quarter, he would defend his
life at the risk of his own. .None feeling inclined to cross

RAMBLES^ ROUND KILMARNOCK. 201

swords with the resolute champion, he was allowed to have
his own way, hut was expelled the fold, and ever after looked
on with suspicion. To the left of the stone to the memory
of John ^Nisbet, there is another which states that it was
"Erected September 1829 by the Parishioners of Loudounin
testimony of their deep admiration of the noble struggle in
defence of the civil and religious liberties of their country
against the despotic and persecuting measuies of the house of
Stuart, maintained by the undernamed martyrs belonging to
this parish, who suffered and died for their devotedness to the
Covenanted work of Reformation : —

MATTHEW PATON, shoemaker in JSTewmilns, who was taken at

Pentland, and executed at Glasgow, Deer. 19th, 1666.
DAVID FINDLAY, who was shot at Newmilns, by order of

Dalziel, 1666.
JAMES WOOD, taken at the battle of Bothwell Bridge, and

executed at Magus-muir, Xov. 25th, 1679.
JOHN NISBET, in Glen, executed at Kilmarnock, April 14th,

1683; and
JAKES KISBET, in Highside, executed at Glasgow, June llth,

1684.

' These are they who came out of great tribulation. Kev.
vii. 11."'

Matthew Paton was tried along with three others who had
been taken prisoner with him, and in spite of every plea set
up in their behalf all four were put to death. Wodrow says
" they were executed that day. The men were most cheerful,
and had much of a sense of the Divine love upon them, and
a great deal of peace in their suifering."

David Findlay belonged to Newmilns. Happening to be
in Lanark when the Covenanting army passed through, he
very foolishly spoke of the circumstance upon his return to
his native village. The fact coming to the ears of Dalziel,
he had Findlay brought before him, and because he was
unable to answer certain questions as to who he saw, to the
surprise of every one the tyrant ordered him to be shot. The
wretched man pleaded hard with the lieutenant for one night
to prepare for eternity, but that was denied him, for when
Dalziel heard of the request he told the officer that he would
teach him to obey without scruple, and " so," says Wodrow,

202 RAMBLES ROUND K1LMARNOCK.

" the man was shot dead, stripped naked, and left upon the
spot."

James Wood when taken prisoner carried no arms, but
because he would not call the rising at Bothwell rebellion,
and Bishop Sharp's death murder, he was sentenced to be
hanged.

John Nisbet was executed in the Cross of Kilmarnock.
The circumstances of his death have been narrated in a
former chapter.

James Nisbet was noted for his piety and for his enmity to
the apostacy of his time. When attending the funeral of
John Richmond of Knowe, who was executed in Glasgow for
his adherence to the Covenanted work of Reformation, he
was taken prisoner, but although no definite charge could be
brought against him yet the subtile questions of his persecu-
tors so entangled him that his answers became unsatisfactory,
and he \vas found guilty of rebellion and sentenced to death.
In the "Cloud of Witnesses" the following note is appended
to his testimony : — " This martyr was so inhumanly treated
and constantly watched that it was with much difficulty he
got anything written, and that only a line now and then."
He was executed at Howgatehead, a place in the vicinity of
Glasgow at the period, but long since included within its
limits. I remember when a mere youth of tracing the old
Howgate, and with some degree of certainty indicating the
situation of the gallows, and of spelling out the almost
defaced words on a slab behind which this and other two
martyrs lay buried. In fact, at this date, after having my
own experience of toils and cares, anxieties and troubles,
joys, sorrows, and reverses, I can distinctly remember the
inscription, for then as now a martyr's grave, an auld kirk-
yard, or an ivy-mantled ruin, suited my poetic temperament,
and possessed a charm for me that few others experienced.
In 1862 the old slab, which was indented into a wall in
Castle Street, a little beyond the corner of Garngad Hill, was
removed and substituted by a beautiful tablet of polished
granite, which was subscribed for by the citizens of Glasgow.
It bears the following inscription, which is somewhat similar
to that on the original stone : — " The dead yet speaketh.
lit -hind this stone lyes James Nisbet, who suffered martyrdom
at this place, June 5th, 1684. Also James Lawson and

RAMBLES BOUND KILMARNOCK. 203

Alexander Wood, who suffered martyrdom, October 24, 1684,
for their adherence to the "Word of God and Scotland's Cove-
nanted work of Reformation." At its base is a drinking foun-
tain, above which is inscribed the words, " Drink and think."

Among the many stones which the churchyard of !N"ew-
milns contains there are only two beside those already noticed
which may be said to be of interest to the visitor. The one
marks the spot where the dust of John Gebbie reposes, and
the other where that of John Morton mingles with kindred
earth. Gebbie fought at Drumdog, and was carried off the
field mortally wounded, and like the mighty JSTelson died
with the shouts of victory ringing in his ears. Morton was
tenant of JBroomhill, a farm in the parish of Loudoun, and
was shot by Claverhouse at the same engagement.

From the churchyard I regained the main street of the
village and stopped before the Working Men's Institute, a
very handsome two-storeyed building which was presented
some years ago to the inhabitants by Miss Brown of Lanfine,
a lady who takes a deep interest in the welfare of the working
classes in the neighbourhood of her estate.

After straying through the village, and spending an hour
in the house of an esteemed friend whose hospitality will not
rt adily be forgotten, I turned my face towards Kilmarnock.
JSfear to the western extremity of the village I passed a curious
old bridge which crosses the Irvine and gives access to the
terminus of the Galston branch of the South-Western Rail-
way, and a little beyond it stopped and looked over to the
scene of Ramsay's popular song, " The Lass o' Patie's Mill."
A mill, of modern appearance occupies the site of the erection
which graced the bank of the Irvine in Ramsay's day, but
the field wherein the rustic beauty was making hay when she
attracted the attention of the Earl of Loudoun is still pointed
out, and although one hundred and fifty years have passed
since the event the stranger still stops by the brink of the
stream and enquires for the song-hallowed scene. The story
of the song is well known. The poet and the Earl of Loudoun
were riding along the highway when it occurred to the latter
that the comely appearance of the " lass" would form a fit
subject for Allan's muse. At the suggestion the bard lagged
behind, composed the ditty, and produced it the same after-
noon at dinner.

CHAPTER XVII.

The Village of Darvel, its appearance and trade — Loudoun Hill and its
.Historic Associations — Wallace's Attack on the English Convoy — A
Scottish Victory — Drumclog — The Laird of Torfoot's account of the
Battle — His fight with Captain Arrol and his encounter with Claver-
house — The appearance of the field after the engagement — The
Covenanters and their achievements.

ABOUT two miles east of Newmilns stands Darvel, a small
village with 1729 of a population. It contains nothing
historical or important, and consists of a long street lined
with unassuming tenements, which are mostly occupied by
muslin weavers, that industry being the staple of the place.
The principal building is the Workmen's Institute, which
was erected by Miss Brown of Lanfine as a memorial of her
sister. It contains the village library and a hall capable of
holding 500 individuals, which is divided by a moveable
partition and converted into a recreation and reading room.
The whole is open to the villagers at little more than a
nominal fee of membership. From the village street there is
a striking view of Loudoun Hill, which is only some two and
a half miles distant. Its locality possesses ,rnany historical
associations, and on this account deserves something more
than a passing notice, for it must for ever constitute an
engrossing object of interest not only to the tourist, but to
every individual who is interested in the struggles of Wallace
and Bruce, and of a bold peasantry who fought for Christ
and the covenanted work of reformation. The hill stands
some two hundred and fifty feet above the surrounding
country. The side towards Darvel is clothed with wood,
and that to the east is composed of bare trap-rock, which is
studded here and there with a solitary tree. From its sum-
mit there is an excellent view of the surrounding country.
Away to the westward is the picturesque valley of
the Irvine — a vista little short of twenty miles in length
— studded with dense woodlands and luxuriant holms,
fertile fields and neat farm-houses ; while on both sides the

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. 205

ground rises gracefully and to the southward attains a con-
siderable elevation. In almost every other direction the eye
rests on a vast expanse of moorland, which cannot fail to
strike the dwellers in large cities as something novel. But
there is an interest connected with Loudoun Hill that is far
more fascinating than its rugged beauty or the prospect
obtainable from its summit. Near to its eastern base a spot
is yet pointed out where the hero Wallace with a small party
of trusty patriots lay all night in ambush waiting the advance
of a troop of English soldiers who were conveying provisions
from Carlisle to the garrison at Ayr. In the grey dawn of
the morning the unsuspecting convoy advanced, and when
entangled in a narrow pass Wallace and his men rushed
upon them like a whirlwind and smote them hip and
thigh. The odds were fearful, but Scottish valour
turned the tide in favour of the assailants, and the
English fled and left behind them their rich stores. Near
the hill also the noble Bruce with six hundred followers met
in battle array the Earl of Pembroke and an army of six
thousand. The battle, which was fought in May, 1307, we
may depend, was both fierce and bloody, but the English
were defeated, and Pembroke and his overwhelming host fled
before the handful of brave men, which shows that "the race
is not always to the swift, nor the battle to the strong."
This was one of the most glorious victories that ever graced
the laurels of Scotland, but in later times, and nearer our
own day, the persecuted supporters of the Covenant — in the
cause of God and their country — defeated Claverhouse
on the field of Drumclog, which lies about a mile eastward
of the eminence. The most graphic account of the fray, and
the most interesting picture of the eventful scenes of that
ever memorable Sabbath morning, is narrated by the Laird
of Torfoot in an article which he penned when he returned
from exile and from it I condense. " It was," says the Laird,
"a fair Sabbath morning, 1st June, A.D. 1679, that an
assembly of Covenanters sat down on the heathy mountains
of Drumclog. We had assembled not to fight but to worship
the God of our fathers. We were far from the tumult of
cities — the long dark heath waved around us, and we dis-
turbed no living creature save the peesweep and the heather
cock. As usual, we had come armed — it was for self-defence,

200 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

for desperate and furious bands made bloody raids through,
the country, and pretending to put down treason they raged
Avar against religion and morals. They spread ruin and havoc
over the face of bleeding Scotland. The clergyman had
commenced the service, and was waxing eloquent on the
wrongs of Scotland and the Church when the watchman,
posted on Loudoun Hill fired his carabine and ran towards
the congregation. This announced the approach of the
enemy, and the minister hastily concluded his discourse and
said: — 'I have done. You have got the theory — now for
the practice. You know your duty. Self-defence is always
lawful. But the enemy approaches.' " The officers now col-
lected their men, and placed themselves each at the head of
those of his own district. Sir Eobert Hamilton placed the
foot in the centre. A company of horse, well armed and
mounted, was placed along with another small squadron on
the left. All being in readiness, the women and children,
and the old men, with their bonnets in their hands, and their
long grey locks streaming in the wind, retired to a convenient
distance, fervently singing a psalm to the tune of " The
Martyrs." The Covenanters were all in good spirits, and gave
a hearty cheer as Hamilton hastened from rank to rank in-
spiring courage into the undisciplined peasants. Gradually
Claverhouse and his troops advanced amid a sound of trum-
pets and drums. Halting, he viewed the position of the
Covenanters, and after a consultation with his officers sent a
flag of truce with the message that they were to lay down
their arms and deliver up their ringleaders. The request was
contemptuously refused by the little army. They were full
of religious zeal and true to each other, and while waiting
the result of the flag of truce they engaged in the singing of
a psalm. When Claverhouse heard that they scouted his
request he passionately cried, " Their blood be upon their
heads ; be no quarter the order of the day." This announce-
ment was received with yells from his troop, who at the word
of command advanced. The Covenanters were not slow to
meet them, but when Claverhouse's party stopped to fire
the Covenanters dropped to the earth and allowed the
volley to pass over. Quickly springing to their feet
they returned fire and made every bullet tell. The fire now
became incessant, and for some time resembled one blazing

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. 207

sheet of flame along the lines of the Covenanters. A moss
hag dividing the belligerents, Claverhouse tried to cross
it with the intention of breaking the centre of the small
army. Observing this, Hamilton cried, "Spearmen to the
front ! kneel • to receive the enemy's cavalry. God and our
country is the word." The spearmen knelt, and those on foot
poured volley after volley into the ranks of Claverhouse.
After several unsuccessful attempts to cross the moss, Claver-
house was about to flee, when the Covenanters rushed
forward, aud a dreadful hand-to-hand conflict ensued. At
this juncture the Laird says, "My gallant men. fired with
great steadiness. We could see many tumble from their
saddles. Not content with repelling the foemen, we found
our opportunity to cross and attack them sword in hand.
The captain, whose name I afterwards ascertained to be
Arrol, threw himself in my path. In the first shock I dis-
charged my pistols. His sudden start in his saddle told me
that one of them had taken effect. With one of the tremen-
dous oaths of Charles II. he closed with me. He fired his
steel pistol. I was in front of him ; my sword glanced on
the weapon, and gave a direction to the bullet which saved
my life. By this time my men had driven the enemy before
them, and had left the ground clear for the single combat.
As he made a lunge at my breast I turned his sword aside
by one of those sweeping blows which are rather the dictate
of a kind of instinct of self-defence than a movement of art.
As our strokes redoubled my antagonist's dark features put
on a look of deep and settled ferocity. No man who has not
encountered the steel of his enemy in the field of battle can.
conceive the looks and manner of the warrior in the moments
of his intense feelings. May I never witness them again !
We fought in silence. My stroke fell on his left shoulder, it
cut the belt of his carabine, which fell to the ground. His
blow cut me to the rib, glancing along the bone, and rid me
also of the weight of my carabine. He had now advanced
too near me to be struck with the sword. I grasped him by
the collar, pushed him backward, and with an entangled blow
of my Ferrara I struck him across the throat. It cut only
the strap of his head-piece, and it fell off. With a sudden
spring he seized me by the sword-belt. Our horses reared,
and we both came to the ground. We rolled on the heath

208 RAMBLES ROUND KILMA KNOCK.

in deadly conflict. It was in this situation of matters that
my brave fellows had returned from the route of the flanking
party to look after their commander. One of them was
actually rushing on my antagonist when I called to him to
retire. We started to our feet ; each grasped his sword ; we
closed in conflict again. After parrying strokes of mine
enemy, which indicated a hellish ferocity, I told him my
object was to take him prisoner ; that sooner than kill him
I should order my men to seize him. ' Sooner let my soul
be branded on my ribs in hell,' said he, ' than be captured by
a Whigamore. No quarter is the word of my colonel and
my sword. Have at thee, whig — I dare the whole of you to
the combat.' — 'Leave the madman to me, leave the field
instantly,' said I to my party, whom I could hardly restrain.
My sword fell on his right shoulder. His sword dropped
from his hand. I lowered my sword and offered him his life.
' No quarter,' said he, with a shriek of despair. He snatched
his sword, which I held in my hand, and made a lunge at
my breast. I parried his blows until he was nearly exhausted,
but gathering up his huge limbs he put forth all his energies
in a thrust at my throat. My Andrea Ferrara received it, so
as to weaken its deadly force, but it made a deep cut.
Though I was faint with loss of blood, I left him no time
for another blow. My sword glanced on his shoulder, cut
through his buff coat, skin, and flesh, swept through his jaw,
and laid open his throat from ear to ear. The fire of
ferociousness was quenched in a moment. He reeled, and
falling with a terrible crash poured out his soul in a torrent
of blood on the heath. I sunk down insensible for a moment.
My faithful men, who had never lost sight of me, raised me
up. In the fierce combat the soldier suffers most from thirst.
I stooped down to fill my helmet with the water which
oozed through the morass. It was deeply tinged with human
blood, which flowed in the conflict above me. I started back
with horror, and Gawn Witherspoon bringing up my steed,
we set forward in the tumult of the battle." While the
hand-to-hand fight in which the Laird was engaged was going
on, the battle raged fiercely on each side of him, and ultimately
Claverhouse and his men were driven into the moss. The
firing had by this time ceased, and the fighting was hand to
hand and man to man, any of the Covenanters who were on

RAMBLES ROUND KILMAUXOCK, 209

horseback dismounted to engage in the fray, for they well
knew that their steeds would sink in the bog if they
attempted to follow the enemy. Coming in close proximity
with Claverhouse, the Laird describes his appearance in
anything but flattering terms. " Three times," he says,
" Claverhouse rolled headlong on the heath as he hastened
from rank to rank, and as often he remounted. In one of
his rapid courses past us my sword could only shear off his
white plume and a fragment of his buff coat. But in a
moment he was at the other side of his square. Our officers
eagerly sought a meeting with him. ' He has the proof of
lead,' cried some of our men ; ' take the cold steel or a piece
of silver.' — -' ]Sro,' cried Burley, 'it is his rapid movement on
that fine charger that bids defiance to anything like an aim.
in the tumult of the bloody fray. I could sooner shoot ten
heather-cocks on the wing than one flying Clavers.' At that
moment Burley, whose eye watched his antagonist, pushed
into the hollow square. But Burley was too impatient. His
blow was levelled at him before he came within its reach.
His heavy sword descended on the head of Clavers' horse
and felled it to the ground. Burley's men rushed pell-mell on
the fallen Clavers, but his faithful dragoons threw themselves
upon them, and by their overpowering force drove Burley
back. Clavers was in an instant on a fresh steed. His
bugleman recalled the party who were driving back the
flanking party of Burley. He collected his whole troops to
make his last and desperate attack." Under the charge
which followed the Covenanters were giving way, but Hamil-
ton placed himself in the front of the battle with the white
flag of the Covenant in his hand and cheered them on. Here
the Laird crossed swords with Clavtrhouse. He relates the
incident as follows : — " He struck a desperate blow at me as
he raised himself in the saddle with all his force. My steel
cap resisted it. The second stroke 1 received on my Ferrara,
and his steel was shivered to pieces. We rushed headlong
on each other. His pistol missed fire ; it had been soaked
in blood. Mine took effect, but the wound was not deadly.
Our horses reared. We rolled on the ground. In vain we
sought to grasp each other. In the melee men and horse
tumbled on us. We were for a few moments buried under
our men, whose eagerness to save their respective officers
o

210 RAMBLES ROUND KILMAKNOCK.

brought them in multitudes down upon us. By the aid of
my faithful man, Gawn, I had extricated myself from my
fallen horse, and we were rushing on the bloody Clavers,
when we were again literally buried under a mass of r»en, for
Hamilton had by this time brought tip his whole line, and
had planted his standard where I and Claversj were rolling
on the heath. Our men gave three cheers and drove in the
troops of Clavers. Here I was borne along with the moving
mass of men and almost suffocated, being faint with the loss of
blood. I knew nothing more till I opened my eyes on my
faithful attendant. He had dragged me from the very grasp
of the enemy and borne me into the rear, and was bathing
my temples with water." At this juncture of the battle the
Royal troops got into confusion, and being hard pressed by
the Covenanters were driven back ; but every inch of ground
was sternly disputed, and nought was heard save the clashing
of weapons, the neighing of horses, the shrieks of the wounded,
and the groans of the dying. But allow the Laird to describe
the closing scene of the battle : — " At this instant his
(Claverhouse's) trumpet sounded the loud notes of retreat,
and we saw on a knoll Clavers borne away by his men. He
threw himself on a horse, and without sword, without helmet,
fled in the first ranks of the now retreating host. His troops
galloped up the hill in the utmost confusion. My little line
closed with that of Burley, and took a number of prisoners.
Our main body pursued the enemy two miles, and strewed
the ground with men and horses. I could see the bare-headed
Clavers in front of his men kicking and struggling up the
steep sides of the Calder Hill. He halted only a moment on
the top to look behind him, then plunged his rowels into his
horse and darted forward ; nor did he recover from this panic
till he arrived in the city of Glasgow. ... I visited the
field of battle next day, but I shall never forget the sight.
Men and horses lay in their gory beds. I turned away from
the horrible sight. I passed by the spot where God saved
my life in single combat, and where the unhappy Arrol fell.
I observed that in the subsequent fray the body had been
trampled on by a horse, and his bowels were poured out."
I need not relate how the Covenanters after this successful en-
gagement were flushed with victory, or how they marched to
l, and sustained a disastrous defeat. Suffice it to say

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. 211

that they played a noble part on the stage of Scottish history.
They did much to burst the bands of tyrannic oppression,
and set a groaning nation at liberty. They may have been
somewhat fanatical, but they did good service, and we are
now reaping the rich harvest of political and religious liberty
that they in the past sowed.

" Praise to the good, the pure, the great,

Who made us what we are —
Who lit the flame that yet shall glow
With radiance brighter far.

" Glory to them in coming time,

And through eternity;
They burst the captive's galling chain,
And bade the world go free."

: Yes! though the sceptic's tongue deride
Those martyrs who for conscience died;
Though modish history blight their fame,
And sneering courtiers hoot the name
Of men who dared alone be free
Amidst a nation's slavery;
Yet long for them the poet's lyre
Shall wake its notes of heavenly fire :
Their names shall nerve the patriot's hand,
Upraised to save a sinking land,
And piety shall learn to burn
With holier transports o'er their urn."

CHAPTER XVIII.

From Newmilns to Qalston — The Institute — Barr Castle — The Boss Tree —
Cessnock Castle — The appearance of the buildings — The Campbells
of Cessnock — Sir Hew, and the charges brought against him — The
alienation of the Castle and Lands — The Main Street of Galston —
The Parish Church and Graveyard— Stones commemorative of local
Covenanters— John Wright, the Galston Poet — Titchfield Street— A
Mining Settlement — From Galston ta Hurlford — The Village: its
buildings and inhabitants — Crookedholm — Back to Eilmarnock —
Conclusion.

THE road from Newmilns to Galston, which is nearly two
miles in length, is remarkable for sylvan beauty and pictur-
esque scenery, being draped with hanging boughs, and fringed
on the one hand with the thickly-wooded policies of Loudoun
Castle, and on the other by stripes of plantation through
•which the waters of the Irvine gurgling sing a continual
farewell to "Loudoun's bonnie woods an' braes" as they roll
on to mingle with the mighty deep. I enjoyed the walk
immensely, and stopped now and again to feast my vision on
the prospect or to catch glimpses of the castle, for its stately
form is now and then seen through openings between the
branches of the magnificent old trees. Towards the end of
the road I observed the town of Galston lying in a hollow on
the left bank of the Irvine, and as my way home passed
through it I pushed onward at a brisk pace, so that I might
rest and partake of refreshment in the house of ex-Bailie
Murdoch, who retails not only the staff of life but also the
" broo o' the barley." Arriving at a stately bridge which
spans the river I crossed and entered the town of Galston,
which contains 4727 of a population, and has a general trade
of muslin-weaving and woollen manufacture. Of late years
it has undergone a transition which has not been for the
better — an influx of miners who are employed in pits in the
vicinity having taken place, it has become both populous and
rough, for a shifting, unsettled class of any kind rarely adds
to the moral status of a community. Passing the Mechanics'

RAMBLES ROUXD KILMARNOCK. 213

Institute — a handsome building lately presented to the
inhabitants by the philanthropic Miss Brown of Lanfine
— I gained the main artery of the town, and after par-
taking of my promised rest and refreshment started to
explore the antiquities. The principal is Barr Castle, an old
square tower, which stands in a hollow in the vicinity of
the railway station. It is seemingly a remnant of a more
extensive building, but it is without a history, little being
known regarding it beyond what tradition has handed down.
It is at present a seed store, but in early times it was doubt-
less the residence of some baron of no mean order. By its
side grows an old plane-tree, which a juvenile tradition affirms
once served as a means of escape to the valiant Wallace, who
when pursued by enemies leaped from a top window of
the edifice into its branches and descended to the ground.
According to M'Crie's Life of Knox, Barr Castle must have
been occupied about the year 1556 by a John Lockhart, who
was a warm supporter of the Beformed doctrines and a
zealous assistant at the spoliation of various churches, for
that writer states that Knox preached in the building and
addressed the people of Kyle from one of its windows. It
was also a favourite haunt of John Wright, a gifted but
unfortunate local poet, who repeatedly refers to ft and very
happily as follows in one of his shorter pieces : —

" Barr Castle! tenantless and wild!

Dome of delight! dear haunt of mine!
The shock of ages thou hast foiled,

Since fell the last of Lockhart's line;
Thou'rt left a hermit to grow gray
O'er swallow, crane, and bird of prey.

" Proud edifice! no annals tell

What thou hast brooked, what thou hast been,
Who reared thee in this lovely dell,

What mighty baron — lord, I ween,
Of hardy Kyle; no bordering tower
Possessed more independent power.

" 0 for a pinion from the wing

Of pelf to lift me from the mire,
And crown a wish, formed in life's spring,

When life was all desire!
These walls should ring with minstrel's lay,
These turrets fall not to decay."

214 RAM13LES HOUND K1LMARNOCK.

" The Barr " at this day and since the earliest recollection of
the oldest inhabitant is the resort and play -place of the youths
of the knvn, and many a keenly-contested game of handball
is played against the tower. During my visit a group were
engaged at the pastime, and their noisy, good-humoured
ejaculations recalled to my mind the following verse of
Wright's " Retrospect " : —

" To Lockhart's tower now flocked we forth — the prey
To wreck of ages, and the pride of song;
Where many a gambol circled round the gray,
Dark, feudal vestige, and its dells among;
But o'er all sports athletic, nimble, strong,
"Was handball pastime; young, mid-aged, and old,
As equals mingled, after practice long;
And scarce a neighbouring village was so bold
As struggle with our own the sovereignty to hold."

Near to " the Barr " there is a dilapidated wall surrounding
an old garden which is said to be that which belonged to the
castle. It is still under cultivation, and has every appearance
of the antiquity ascribed to it. In a field adjacent to the
vestige of feudal times stands the remains of a majestic elm
of gigantic proportions which was known by the name of
" the boss tree," from the circumstance of a cavity in its trunk.
The botanical curiosity was blown down some twenty years
ago, and all now remaining of it is a rotten hollow stump
in which four men might conveniently stand erect ; but not-
withstanding its' condition, and that it is decayed to a mere
shell, it still retains one healthful gnarled bough which some-
what astonishingly manages to draw sustenance from its
apparently sapless parent. Tradition has it that the Wallace
Wight hid from his foes in the branches of this tree ; but
whether it was or was not the case is of little consequence,
the shattered remnant being a sufficient curiosity. M'Kay
in his Ingleside Lilts makes the tradition the subject of a
poem which he entitles " The Warrior's Tree." It concludes
as follows : —

" Then boldly he sprang from the green leafy shade,

His eye sternly rolling in wrath;
The glen's lonely echoes resounded his tread,
As on to the couib.it majestic he sped,

Regardless of ruin or death.

RAMBLES ROUND KILMAHXOCK. 215

" The vision has passed; but the Warrior's Tree,
Though fading 'neath Time's chilling blight,
Still waves its broad branches alone on the lea,
Where the peasant oft pauses, delighted to see
The haunt of brave Wallace the Wight."

From, the boss tree I leisurely strolled towards the railway
station, crossed a bridge which spans the line, and after a
walk of little over a mile along a beautiful road, from which
the pedestrian has a delightful view of the woods of Loudoun,
the braes of Laufine, and a vast track of level country, stopped
before an old-fashioned gateway with a turnstile. Finding it
to be the entrance to the policies of Cessnock Castle, I
entered, passed up the avenue, and in a short time arrived in
a courtyard lined on three sides with old buildings of various
heights and designs. On the right, near to the top of what
appeared to be the principal one, an old clock whose hands
had ceased to indicate the passing hour displayed its weather-
beaten face and looked down upon the apparently deserted
residence as if conscious that its services were no longer
necessary, for there was no appearance of life, all being still
and in a semi-ruinous condition. Leaning on my staff I
viewed the old place, and while thus engrossed fell into a
reverie, out of which I was roused by a low growl in close
proximity with my heels, which had the effect of nearly
frightening the life out of me and causing me to spring a
couple of feet into the air. Turning I beheld a large dog
tugging at the end of a chain, and doing its best to scare me
from the scene. With thoughts of the seat of my best
trousers being torn out, I was making a hasty retreat when a
door in the left wing of the building opened and a young
man made his appearance, to Avhom I related the object of
my visit. After changing the tune of the noisy brute into
an apologetic howl he kindly conducted me over the buildings
and showed me everything that he considered interesting
connected with them, but I did not observe anything very
remarkable, and after passing through one empty room after
another I was glad when I regained the outer world. I do
lore old buildings, but Cessnock is not sufficiently wrecked
for me ; it is by far too clean and destitute of cobwebs, but
nevertheless it is a fine place and will amply repay a visit.
It stands on the top of a steep bank overlooking lJurnawn, a

216 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARSOCK.

romantic streamlet whose banks are bright with bloom and
melody, and whose channel is famous for the number of
pebbles and jaspers that have periodically been found in it.
Originally the building consisted of a solitary square tower of
great strength, but additions were from time to time
made to it until it became very extensive; and though now
deserted and in a measure abandoned to decay, it retains not
a little of its old grandeur and presents a very interesting
appearance. Ivy in many places has begun to creep up the
walls and peer into some of the windows, as if anxious to see
what progress decay is making within. The Campbells of
Cessnock were descended from a second son of George Camp-
bell of Loudoun, who married Lady Janet Montgomerie,
seventh daughter of Hugh, first Earl of Eglinton, in Novem-
ber, 1513. The connection with the Loudoun family was
made closer by the pious but unfortunate Sir Hew Campbell
of Cessnock, who about 1630 married Lady Elizabeth, second
daughter and co-heiress of George, Master of Loudoun.
Amongst the many associations of Cessnock Castle the
history of Sir Hew is the most mournful, that nobleman
being persecuted to the death by a secret enemy who is
supposed to have been John Drummond, Viscount of Melfort.
Sir Hew belonged to the Presbyterian party, and took part
in the political troubles which ended in the death of Charles I.
Upon the ascension of Charles II. he became a favourite at
court, and was knighted by that monarch about 1649, and
was by Parliament appointed Lord Justice-Clerk. At the
Eestoration he retired from public life, but here his troubles
commenced. Without any apparent cause he was exempted'
from the act of indemnity passed in 1662, and, after
suffering various terms of imprisonment and paying heavy
lines, was in 1683, along with his son George, thrown
into prison upon a trumped-up charge of being con-
nected with the Covenanters in the district, and accessory
to the rising at Bothwell. At the trial they would have lic.-u
found guilty had not a conscience-stricken witness broken
down. This event caused their acquittal, but they were
detained in prison, and in the year following were brought to
trial for being connected with the Ryehouso Plot. This they
partly admitted, and threw themselves upon the mercy of the
Court, but were found guilty and sentenced to be removed

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. 217

to the Bass until the King's pleasure should be known.
Their estates were forfeited and annexed to the Crown, "but
afterwards were conferred upon the supposed secret instigator
of the charges. Under this harsh treatment the health of
Sir Hew broke down, and after a lengthened imprisonment
on this account he was released, but died shortly afterwards
at Edinburgh, on the 20th September, 1686, aged 71 years.
When the troublous times of the Eevolution were over a bill
was laid before Parliament to rescind all fines and forfeitures
that had occurred after the year 1665. The bill after much
opposition was passed, and the castle and lands of Cessnock
were restored to the family. Sir George Campbell of Cess-
nock, the sharer of much of the persecution directed against
his father, came into possession in March, 1691, but having
no male issue the property devolved upon Sir Alexander
Hume, Earl of Marchmont, who married his daughter Mar-
garet. In turn he was succeeded by his son Hugh, who
alienated the estate and confined his landed property to
Berkshire. Since that time Cessnock has been in the pos-
session of several individuals. It was for some considerable
time occupied by a John Wallace, a relative of the Wallaces
of Cairnhill; but in 1786 the trustees of Miss Scott, late
Duchess of Portland, acquired it, and it is now in the pos-
session of his Grace the Duke. Bounding down the steep
bank on which the castle stands, I strayed along a footpath
that skirts the Burnawn, which at this point jinks round a
curve and runs zig-zag through a beautiful glen.

After a pleasant walk I arrived in the highway and shortly
afterwards in the main street of Galston, a closely-built,
populous thoroughfare, and entered the Crown Inn to fortify
my inner man before starting for home. I found Mr and
Mrs Ferguson very courteous, a circumstance that did much
to make my refreshment doubly refreshing, and causing me
to think lightly of the five lang Scotch miles that lay between
me and Kilmarnock.

At the head of the main street on an eminence stands the
Parish Church, a commodious building topped with a beauti-
ful spire in which there are clock dials. It stands in the
centre of a very ancient graveyard, and was erected in 1808
upon the site of an old place of worship which previous to
the Keforrnation belonged to the Friars of Faile, a

218 RAMBLES ROUND K1LMAUNOCK.

fraternity who, as the reader will doubtless remember,
" Loved gude kail on Fridays when they fasted."

In the graveyard I met with several very chaste monuments
and tombstones which mark the burying-places of some very
old Galston families, and also with two humble slabs com-
memorative of Galston Covenanters. One of these bears the
following inscription: — " In memory of John Eichmond,
younger of Know, who was executed at the Cross of Glasgow,
March 19th, 1684, and interred in the High Churchyard
there; and James Smith, East Threepwood, who was shot
near Bank on Burnawn, 1684, by Captain Inglis and his
dragoons, and buried there. Also, James Young and George
Campbell, who were banished in 1679, and the Eev. Alex.
Blair, who suffered imprisonment, 1673."

John Richmond was captured in Glasgow by Major Balfour.
"Wodrow tells how he was taken to the guard-house, and
bound neck and heel, and left for hours on the damp floor
bruised and bleeding from wounds received in a struggle
with his captor. The reader will remember that it was at
his funeral James Nisbet, in Highside, was taken and shortly
afterwards executed at Howgatehead, Glasgow, as related in
the last chapter. Nothing is known of James Smith beyond
what is graven on the stone. James Young and George
Campbell were taken at Bothwell, conveyed to Edinburgh,
and imprisoned in Greyfriars' Churchyard, and afterwards
along with two hundred and fifty others banished to the
plantations, but the ship was wrecked when off the Moul
Head of Deerness, and they both perished. The Eev. Alex.
Blair was minister of Galston, and a man of more than
ordinary talent. In 1662 he suffered imprisonment for
refusing to submit to prelacy, and was stripped of his clerical
rights. In 1669 he was charged with the crime oi preaching
ami baptizing, and was dismissed with a caution, and was
afterwards imprisoned for refusing to give thanks to God for
the restoration of Charles II. on a day appointed by the
Government, but the confinement so injured his health that
he died " in much joy," says Wodrow, " and full assurance
of faith."

.Near to the door of the church and close to the side walk
there is another stone which murks the spot whore rests one

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. 219

of " bloody Graham's " victims. On the top there is a
wretched bas-relief representation of one man shooting
another. Between the figures there is a sand-glass two-thirds
of their size, and the gun is as thick as the leg of the holder
and longer than himself ; the whole is very ridiculous, and
ill accords with the inscription, which is as follows : — " Here
lies Andrew Richmond, who was killed by bloody Graham
of Claverhouse, 1679, for his adherence to the word of God
and Scotland's Covenanted work of Reformation.

" When bloody tyrants here did rage
Over the Lord's own heritage,
To persecute His noble cause,
By mischief framed into laws;
'Cause I the Gospel did defend,
By martyrdom my life did end."

Nothing is known regarding Andrew Eichmond beyond what
the stone states.

Amongst the many memorials of departed worth in this
churchyard the absence of a tribute to the memory of John
Wright, the local poet already referred to, is conspicuous.
The people of Galston may consider the nativity of this ill-
starred votary of the muse no great honour, but nevertheless
it is undeniable that his poetry is highly creditable to the
unlettered muse of Scotland, and would not disgrace a town
of greater pretensions. But who is John Wright ] some of
my readers may ask. Well, John Wright was a native of
Galston, a harness weaver, and the author of a volume of
poems entitled The Retrospect, or Youthful Scenes, and many
other poems and songs. In early life he was sober, well-
conducted, and industrious, and continued to be so until
Fame found him out, but after that he allowed himself
gradually to be drawn into the vortex of intemperance. When
at the loom he wrote The Retrospect, a long poem of un-
doubted merit, but as neither it nor any of his shorter pieces
met with the approbation of his friends he determined to visit
Edinburgh and get some literary man's opinion regarding the
whole. Collecting his manuscripts, he set out with them
and one halfpenny in his pocket and walked to the capital,
living by the way upon turnips or whatever he could procure.
While strolling friendlessly, and I may say objectlessly,
through the city — for he possessed no recommendation — he

220 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

met with a Galston lad who was studying at the college, and
by him was taken by the hand and introduced to John
Wilson, professor of moral philosophy. The professor took
John's poems, read them, and wrote a notice of the author,
which he published in an Edinburgh magazine. In that
notice he says — " Mr Wright is a self-taught poet, and has
encountered difficulties in his progress more depressing to
genius than any I have seen recorded of either Burns or
Hogg." The cry arose, who is this new poet? and every one
was desirous of obtaining a copy of his work, which was
speedily published. The first edition appeared in 1833, and
two others during the course of his life. A copy of one before
me contains a list of subscribers, and I observe the names
of twenty-two clergymen and several of the most eminent
literary men then living. Fame was within his grasp, and
he might have done well, but drink ruined him, and during
the latter years of his life he wandered from town to town
living as he best could, and that generally upon the charity
or hospitality of friends who had known him in other
circumstances. J. K. Hunter, in his Life Studies, speaks of
meeting with him in Paisley Road, Glasgow. He must then
1m ve fallen very low, and I would fain hope that the picture
Hunter draws of him is overdone. He says — "A different
sort of study made its appearance — a sair-worn something
that had once borne resemblance to a man, now rowed up iu
a bundle of auld claes that might have adorned a scarecrow
in a potato field without exciting the envy of a dealer in
cast-off raiment ; an auld Kilmarnock bonnet pulled down to
the eyes ; the head leaning forward, the shoulders rounded
and high as the crown of the head ; an earthy coat that might
once have been black — the very dirt on it glazed — buttoned
to the throat ; the skeleton of two pairs of trousers, torn to
strips ; and a pair of bauchles on the stockingless feet.

I could not have fancied that form the abode of poetry;
it would have been the last element of thought I should have
guessed to have ever lodged in that clay tenement." After
borrowing pins from women on the way with which to pin
the rags of the poet together, Hunter gave him a few coppers
(all the money he had with him, he states), bade him good-
bye, and saw him no more.

John Wright died " unwept, unhonoured, and unsung,"

RAMBLES ROUNTD KILMARNOCK. 221

aged thirty-nine — one account states in the Glasgow Police-office
and another in the Eoyal Infirmary. A few Galston natives
residing in Glasgow followed his remains to their last resting
place, and defrayed the expenses of the funeral amongst them.
In a nameless grave he found a lethe for all his self-inflicted
woes, but for all that a simple slab might be raised in the
churchyard of his native village to commemorate this gifted
but unfortunate son of song.

Closing the churchyard gate I entered the Cross, glanced
at the clock on the church steeple, and was surprised to find
that the day was far spent, and that the gloamin' would be
set by the time Kilmarnock would be reached. Buttoning
my coat, I grasped my staff firmly, took a last look around,
turned my face in the direction of home, and walked at a
brisk pace down Titchfield Street. The buildings in this
line of street are unostentatiously plain, and through several
of the windows I observed looms and grey-headed "wabsters"
industriously plying the shuttle. At one door I paused a
moment and listened to the clickity-clack and the birr of a
pirn wheel, for they are sounds that I seldom hear, but when
heard they awaken fond memories and recall to my mind the
happy, joyous days " when I was a callant and gaed to the
schule." At the foot of Titchfield Street .are situated a col-
lection of miners' houses called the Boyd, the Gauchlan, and
the Goatfoot Eows, which have sprung up mushroom-like
within the last few years. They have a cleanly and comfort-
able look, and their occupants a bien and respectable appear-
ance. Here Titchfield Street merges into the Kilmarnock
road. Following its course I passed on my right another
mining settlement named the Tarry and New Goatfoot Eows.
The first is so named from the circumstance of the roofs of
the houses being covered with tarred canvas. It was in the
£s"ew Goatfoot Eow that my old friend James Garret lived.
Although a miner he. was well read and highly respected, and
is now sadly missed by his family and fellow-workmen, for
they often profited by his long experience and wise counsel
in trade matters. He was generally averse to strikes, but if
a dispute had no other alternative old James never lifted a
pick until it was settled. But he has gone — gone to the
narrow house, and my small circle of friends and well-wishers
counts one less.

222 RAMBLES ROUND K1LM.VRXOCK.

Beyond New Goatfoot Bow the road for a long distance is
broad and level, and traverses a delightful district which
presents many fine alternations of hill and dale, wood,
fell, and russet lawn. I enjoyed the scene immensely as I
walked at a brisk pace on niy homeward journey, but did
not meet with anything worthy of remark until I came to
Hoods tone Bridge. This bridge spans the Cessnock — a
streamlet which Burns has rendered classic by his muse, and
which at this point forms an eccentric curve before it empties
itself into the Irvine. The stream also divides the parishes
of Galston and Eiccarton, and bounds the estate of Holmes,
a residence of the Fairlies. The mansion-house can be seen
in the distance through th« trees, but is a modern erection
possessed of no feature of interest. After lingering a short
time watching the rippling Cessnock, I followed the line of
road, which after some two miles of a continuous level becomes
somewhat steep and irregular. Passing through Hillhead
Toll I gradually attained the summit of the brae, and paused
at a small bridge that spans a single line of rail that com-
municates between the main railway and some coal pits
belonging to the Messrs Gilmour. Here I had a splendid
view of the surrounding country. The prospect from the
bridge is as extensive as it is beautiful, and the eye rests
•with delight upon a fertile and highly picturesque track of
country. Farther on I passed a roadside public-house, into
which a number of miners were entering seemingly with the
intention of " wetting their whistles" and washing the dust of
the week out of their throats. I was certain it was pay-day
with them, for the buxom landlady smirked and smiled
upon the motley group, and welcomed them, ben with
great frankness. A little beyond this " public " the
road takes a turn, and when rounding it the somewhat
scattered but populous village of Hurlford bursts into
view.

Passing rows of miners' dwellings of the usual class, and
remarkable only for the number of children gambolling about
them, I arrived in the village of Hurlford. Old Hurlford,
which consists of a few thatched houses of mean appearance,
stands on an old and now disused road in a hollow to the
north of the modern village. These houses — some half-dozen
in number — were all that constituted the hamlet seventy

RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK. 223

years ago ; but had it not been discovered that the district
of Hurlford was rich in mineral the Hurlford of then would
have been the Hurlford of to-day, and the ground whereon
the new portion of the village stands would have been fur-
rowed by the plough and yielded crops to the husbandman.
Hurlford of to-day, however, is a place of considerable
importance and bustle. It contains a population of 2718,
or, including Crookedholm, 3488, and is possessed of two
handsome churches, a commodious academy, and a beautiful
jail, which I trust the inhabitants patronise as little as pos-
sible, and also a prosperous Co-operative Society. It depends
chiefly on the Portland Iron Works, the extensive fire-clay
goods factory of J. & R. Howie, and the numerous collieries
in its vicinity.

Crossing a splendid bridge which spans the Irvine, I passed
on the north side of the road the Free Church, a very neat
edifice with a spire, and a little farther on, on the same side,
stands Hurlford Parish Church, a recently-erected building,
and one of the finest places of worship in Ayrshire. Opposite
it, to the south, is the Portland Iron Works, the glare of
whose furnaces on a dark night illumines the whole district.

Passing through Crookedholm, a straggling row of irregu-
larly-built dwellings that line the road at a spot where the
Irvine, far below the level of the highway, sweeps round a
curve as it ripples onward, I soon arrived at Woodend, the
beautiful residence of Allan Gilmour, Esq. The house is
built of red sandstone, and occupies a position that commands
a capital view of the surrounding country. The road beyond
it is nearly a dead level, and continues so until Kilmarnock
is reached.

After a pleasant but lengthy walk I passed through a toll-
bar and entered London Road, an aristocratic suburb already
noticed, and soon reached Green Bridge. Traversing Duke
Street, I arrived once more in the Cross as the gloamin' was
setting in, and wearily sought the seclusion of my home,
where my return was hailed by the gleeful shouts of my little
ones, who one and all were so glad to see my face that they
accorded me a hearty welcome — yes, such a welcome as little
truthful, loving souls only can give. One laid hold of my
staff, the other of my hat, while a third set my arm-chair in
a cozy corner and fetched my slippers. I drew up to the

221 RAMBLES ROUND KILMARNOCK.

ingle cheek, and felt grateful that I was once more at " my
ain fireside."

EEADER,

I've wandered by yon country side,

And viewed the lowly graves
Where Scotland's raartyr'd heroes sleep,

O'er whom the green grass waves.
I've gathered tales o' auld langsyne,

And climbed the braes sae steep;
I've stood upon the castle wa'

And viewed the ruined keep;

but now we must part. You have obtained the benefit of
my jottings, and I trust they have entertained you, and not
only awakened fond memories of youthful haunts and asso-
ciations, but added something to your stock of knowledge.
If this be the case, then my object in giving them a per-
manent form has been attained, and we take leave of each
other mutually satisfied.

KILMARNOCK : PRINTED BY T. STEVEX30N, 6 PORTLAND STKEI.T.

PLEASE DO NOT REMOVE
CARDS OR SLIPS FROM THIS POCKET

UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO LIBRARY

DA Adamson, Archibald R

890 Rambles round Kilmarnock